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truck died while driving now no start


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I was driving the truck and it just died. I checked the fuel pressure by bumping the starter and have about 12 psi. As soon as I turn the key the pressure goes down to 3 -5 psi and bounces. I have a raptor 100 pump on the truck. I jumped the relay for the pump and it constantly pumps at about 12 psi while trying to start the truck. I do not believe that the pump is bad due to it working just fine while jumping the relay. I cracked an injector line and no fuel comes out when trying to start while jumping the pump power. Any idea what would cause the no start and the raptor to act like that when starting it connected to the relay.

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How are you checking the codes? The 1693 is telling there is another code in the other computer. I am assuming you are using the key trick to pull them. 01s, 02's and I think some 00's will read both computers. Others want. No matter what year you would be better off reading them with a scanner so you can get them all. As far as your fuel pressure goes, when you turn the key and try to start the truck the ECM will cycle the pump to reduce pressure for starting. You would typically see about 50% pressure. If you are still running the oe carter lift pump that could be your problem or not. You need to get the codes read and post them. Another thing that would help is to fill out your signature in the user control panel with all you know about the truck. It will help greatly. We just need more info to help.

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If the key trick is checking both computer you would see p ecu, then codes, then p done. Then you would see p pcu, codes then p done again. Mine reads both, I might have the ecu and pcu backwards, but either way you would see p done twice. My 02 does not always read all the codes with the key trick, a scanner is better.

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Thanks for the signature. That raptor ought to be pushing better pressure than that. to answer another question you asked, jumping the relay while starting is feeding constant 12v to the pump thus full pressure. The ecm cylces the relay on and off to reduce pressure.

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Thanks for the signature. That raptor ought to be pushing better pressure than that. to answer another question you asked, jumping the relay while starting is feeding constant 12v to the pump thus full pressure. The ecm cylces the relay on and off to reduce pressure.

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So, you are saying that I should turn up the pressure for the pump to begin with? It used to run about 10 psi at idle. I guess I never looked at it while starting before. I am also referring to the gauge that I have mounted on top of the fuel canister. I will have to see if I can get a scanner to read any other codes off the truck. Mine only show the P code, then -------, then done with turning the key 3 times.

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Maybe, The codes will help with that.

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So, you are saying that I should turn up the pressure for the pump to begin with? It used to run about 10 psi at idle. I guess I never looked at it while starting before. I am also referring to the gauge that I have mounted on top of the fuel canister. I will have to see if I can get a scanner to read any other codes off the truck. Mine only show the P code, then -------, then done with turning the key 3 times.

the sender is probably toast from the water hammer and is not reliable, I would think. The first One I put in very similar to yours and it did not last 2 months. Is your gauge hooked up to that sender in the photo or just connected to the fuel filter canister. A pic would be nice.

I apolagize. The above statement was meant for someone else. I have no idea where your sender is.

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The gauge is mounted to the fuel canister cap. It is the cap from Geno's and a mechanical gauge mounted in the cap.

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Here is a list of the codes that I pulled off the truck with a scanner -

P1693 - companion DTC was set in both ecm and pcm,

P1689 - no communication between ecm and injection pump,

P0230 - fuel pump primary circuit,

P1688 - internal fuel injection pump controller failure,

P0254 - injection pump fuel metering A high,

P0237 - turbo boost sensor A circuit low input

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I tried the blue chip diesel diagnostics. Everything checked out as it should. I tried to hot wire the pump directly. That still did not start the truck. Shouldn't you hear the VP44 run or turn when it is hot wired directly? I did not hear anything turn when it was powered directly.

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I tried the blue chip diesel diagnostics. Everything checked out as it should. I tried to hot wire the pump directly. That still did not start the truck. Shouldn't you hear the VP44 run or turn when it is hot wired directly? I did not hear anything turn when it was powered directly.

The pump is gear driven. You are just powering the electronics with the 12v. From reading the codes you posted, I believe the pump is toast.
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It would be a good idea to get a gauge in the cab with the needle valve to stop the vp from pounding the gauge to death. Make sure you have 1/2'' fuel lines all the way to get the fuel pressure above 14 all the time. This will stop the wear out of the new vp.It's a must that you use 2 stroke oil with every fill up as the VP's weren't designed to run on this new EPA fuel. It does not have the lubricity/ oil it used to have to keep it happy. Just stock up on TCW3 2 cycle oil wherever you get a deal. I throw a quart in on every fill up at least 1 ounce with each gallon of diesel.

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Here is the 4 things that can kill a VP44... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements If you deal with these 4 things you'll get plenty of life from your VP44. I'm heading for 200K miles and plan on many more miles... :woot:

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