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Is there any problems with a steel fuel transfer tank vs a alum one? Is rust a issue? It is a 200 difference cheaper for steel and a bit more weight. Thanks

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Is the steel coated by anything? Galvanized, powder coated, etc??? Cheap is good, but only if it lasts? The weight? Dude... You drive a Cummins that can pull 20K plus... Don't sweat 300 - 400 lbs.

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not sweating the wt just listing the difference as they are few. It is a better built and it is powder coat but only on the outside. Inside is nothing. I would think steel be a little more resilient by being able to bend instead of crack in case of impact.

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Well with all diesel fuel it tends to have a certain amount of water so steel is going to be a issue if its not coated internally... Make sure you use a water separator and filter... Aluminum is plenty fine for fuel cells... Look at every semi truck hauling down the pavement they all have aluminum fuel tanks... If it was me I would take the aluminum tank...

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i have a steel transfer tank...i think the brand is tradesman.....bought it with the truck.i had just removed it last month. me and the buddy were amazed at how light it really was.mine is just painted white

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It is power coated on the exterior. Well i might have to rethink this. Thanks for the input. how long till it could be a problem? If it could get me by for a few years or so I might be in a better spot? Think it might last 5yrs? 3? Curt

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It is power coated on the exterior. Well i might have to rethink this. Thanks for the input. how long till it could be a problem? If it could get me by for a few years or so I might be in a better spot? Think it might last 5yrs? 3? Curt

i'm 95% sure mine is at least 4 yrs old...it was almost right against the front of the bed(you could barely get your fingers behind it)...i removed it to clean the bed out. there are only 2 rust spots on mine. the paint chipped off. you know... i had the topper over it until the back window broke

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I have a steel fuel tank that has been fueling tractors and such for 25 years and we just put a filter on it about 5 years ago. When you look down inside it has some rust but what the hey its 25 and been in the elements, you can make your mind up with this thought, alum is nothing but trash material. I have spent more time repairing alum than I care to count. Let me ask you this ,how many friends do you know that have broke alum tool boxes?I have people stop in all the time, can you weld this little spot? And I say sure no problem, that will be 45.00. and they look at me like I lost my mind and I say go by your on welder, it only run you about 3800.00. I wish I could say you bought the junk I didnt.lolBut really steel cracks less and is better quailty. It can handle being hit, bent, poked you name it. Alum is for people with money, when you buy it and when you get it repaired.

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I would think steel be a little more resilient by being able to bend instead of crack in case of impact.

Thats what i was thinking as stated.

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I had a 110 gallon Dee Zee aluminum tank in my truck until one of the welds cracked while the tank was FULL and I was driving down the road. :yme: It was NO FUN jumping through my *** trying to stop the leaking fuel and find a container to transfer the 110 gallons of fuel into. Fortunately I had an 80 gallon fuel spill barrel. Aluminum is OK for some things but NOT for a truck bed transfer tank. The fuel and vapors in the tank continuously expand and contract with temperature changes and this causes the tank walls to flex which can be noted by a popping sound when a tank wall gets pushed outward or gets sucked inward from vaccum. With repeated contraction and expansion, the aluminum becomes embrittled and it is not a matter of if but when a weld will crack. At least in my opinion. Yes, the aluminum looks cool and reflects the sun's heat. Get the steel tank and avoid the eventual crack that will happen with aluminum. Unless the fuel tank is a welded perfect circle body with spun aluminum ends welded on like on the over the road truck tanks, aluminum is not a good choice for a fuel transfer tank that you intend to leave full for extended periods in the bed of your pickup. Just my :2cents: worth from a bad experience. Also be aware the in many states if you carry more than (I believe) 99 gallon capacity tank in your truck you are required to get a DOT registration # for it. If you have the misfortune of crossing paths with a revenue parasite, truck hating cop, it could lead to a big fine.

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I have no experience with transfer tanks. I have had off road equipment with a welded steel gasoline tank just hanging on it the salt ocean air... 17 years worth with no problems. We threw a coat of enamel paint on it once in a while along with the rest of the machine. Please note when dear ole Dad failed to duck low enough to clear said tank, tank was undamaged... Dad's head did not fair so well.Russ

Edited by flagmanruss
Russ can't spell

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I am looking at the Better Built 75gal tank / tool box combo it goes for 542.xx special order from Wallmart. Working in the sheetmetal industry for the last 9 years I know that mostly alum is more likely to crack then bend then steel which is more flexible. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200394115_200394115?cm_sp=RVC-_-Search%20Page-_-Products

Edited by Howie67

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the custom tanks I see on motorcycles usually get coated on the inside with kreem or equivalent liquid sealer. keeps the rust at bay as well as seals any imperfections in the welding.

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I remember a old friend who owned a radiator repair shop. When we had a old rusted factory tank that needed repair he would tank them and patch and after that apply a coating to the inside it worked really good not sure what it was made out of... perhaps it is the same stuff you are talking about. It looked light colored white/yellowish.

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I remember a old friend who owned a radiator repair shop. When we had a old rusted factory tank that needed repair he would tank them and patch and after that apply a coating to the inside it worked really good not sure what it was made out of... perhaps it is the same stuff you are talking about. It looked light colored white/yellowish.

sounds like the same stuff by you description although I never thought it would be a suitable heat transfer medium in a radiator.

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The fine people at Ford decided to put a steel rear tank and a plastic front tank on mine. That way, when the steel one rusts out (which it has) you can still get somewhere with the front one. But yeah, it has a 1/8 or 3/16" skid plate under the whole tank and it's still rusted to hell. I say get the aluminum since it will surely be pelted with road salt being far less protected than my ford's, that still rusted.Alright I read a little better, I don't think flexing is an issue, how much is a tank going to flex when it's right over the chassis.. I do think rocks and dirt and other crap can get under the tank and scratch off "rust protection" causing the steel one to leak when it finally rusts. My brother made a tank out of a regular aluminum tool box which seems to work well. I can get a pic of that if you want. But yeah, if your going to have it for any length of time, I would get aluminum.

Edited by ISX

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I think the nicest tank I ever saw came out of an old Chris Craft... round tank made of monel. It lasted 30 years in the boat, before I ever saw it.

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I think the nicest tank I ever saw came out of an old Chris Craft... round tank made of monel. It lasted 30 years in the boat, before I ever saw it.

i give...what is monel?

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I decided to go with the steel one. In the bed of the truck should be ok from the elements long enough to last me. I will have diesel and 2cycle so hopefully no serious rust on the inside for a respectable period of time. I figure if i get 3+ thats good and will pay for itself by then. Thanks for all the input.

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Anyone know a online source to look at the different tank fittings? I cant seem to find one that shows good pictures and descriptions. I am looking for a 2" bung extension that I can add a port to so I can run a recirculation pump on the tank to filter the moisture out before I transfer into the main tank. I plan on using the factory filter housing I removed when I installed my AD100. My plan is to "stage" all my fuel in this tank and add my 2cycle oil. This will allow me to pre filter all my fuel and get a good mix for my 2cyc. I have added a quick diag i did to give the idea. I had thought i was going to use a switch solenoid i could switch from inside but I decided to use a external pump instead so ignore that part to main tank . Thanks, Curt

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