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What; if any, maintenance should I do on MightyWhitey at or around 200k?? Sitting at 196,1xx now, and have a few trips lined up for the near future. I did my normal yearly maintenance a month ago prior to my NoDak trip.I've NEVER done a...................valve lash adjustment, fully bled the power steering, coolant/water pump change, injector change, radiator hose change-out, and prolly some more that I cannot think of right now. She's running good and getting good mileage.:2cents::thumb1:What say y'all??!!:pant:

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I would say to change the coolant due to the additives depleting, change the power steering fluid, and definitely adjust the valves. Other than that just routine stuff.

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Valves are long overdue, IIRC they are due at 100k and when I did mine at 55k they needed it. Coolant is 5 year or 100k on the factory fill, your over both. Even the G05 in the jug, same as OEM, is only 150K. Water pump is probably on its last legs, but maybe not. Same with injectors. You have enough miles it's time to ask yourself if you want to do preventative or reactive maintenance on both. Power steering and brake fluid are the 2 most neglected fluids in automotive maintenance, they both need changed. I had had planned to swap my hoses out at 100k, but due to recent circumstance will be doing it at 93K. You may want to consider their age and change them. Even the youngest of 04.5s are 9 years old.

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I've changed the coolant every other year since I've had Mighty Whitey……………….just never changed the water/coolant pump. Sorry for the confusion.My 200k check list is this…………….1. water pump2. coolant change out……….since I have to drain the coolant to do #13. serpentine belt4. radiator hoses and thermostat5. flush PS system6. valve lash adjustment7. injectors………………….gonna wait until problems start……………hopefully 2 stroke oil has extended the life of them8. tranny, diffs, and trans case oil will be done @225k as I was late in changing it the last time. Will repack front free spin hubs then also.That's about all I can think of now. My Bud with an '03 with 350+k miles replaced his OEM injectors at about 240-250k miles. My luck would be if I changed them out before I needed to, I'd FUBAR something up!!!!:2cents: If it ain't broke, don't fix until it is!!!!:smart:

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……………….just never changed the water/coolant pump. :2cents: If it ain't broke, don't fix until it is!!!!:smart:

So, why change the water pump if it is not leaking?

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That's a good list. Why so many coolant changes? The G05 is a 150K or 5 year coolant. If you have the down time you can have your injectors tested for under $200, and then you know where they are. 200K is not too bad out of them, would hate to have one fail open.

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I had my injectors tested last week, they are at 93K miles and have had triple fuel filtration down to 30um since 15K miles (I bought it used). They have also had fuel lubricity additive every tank since 10K miles (unknown up to that point). The Bosch machine tests multiple things, 15 tests I think, and mine failed one of the tests. I am not sure which one yet as we haven't gotten them back with the test sheet. I think it was something to do with the pilot, but I don't know if it's timing or quantity. But mine have been working great, and treated as good as good as they can be.. but the bottom line is they are common rail injectors.The FF5320 is a good filter, it meets the Bosch spec of 5um but doesn't exceed it. 2 Stroke works for some and not for others, but even on the trucks that don't like it I think the injectors will if there isn't too much cold idling.

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I had my injectors tested last week, they are at 93K miles and have had triple fuel filtration down to 30um since 15K miles (I bought it used). They have also had fuel lubricity additive every tank since 10K miles (unknown up to that point). The Bosch machine tests multiple things, 15 tests I think, and mine failed one of the tests. I am not sure which one yet as we haven't gotten them back with the test sheet. I think it was something to do with the pilot, but I don't know if it's timing or quantity. But mine have been working great, and treated as good as good as they can be.. but the bottom line is they are common rail injectors. The FF5320 is a good filter, it meets the Bosch spec of 5um but doesn't exceed it. 2 Stroke works for some and not for others, but even on the trucks that don't like it I think the injectors will if there isn't too much cold idling.

I do appreciate your "fanatical" obsession with filtration………………….believe me, I really do. But I don't understand you're stance on me pulling the injectors on my truck that are………………to my belief giving me great mileage and performance…………….and having them tested just for the sake of being tested……..……………….to what end???!!!! Your "old" injectors may have gone another 100k………………………or 1k…………………..irregardless of testing or not!! Your "cam upgrade" was a "no-brainer"………………….myself included…………………….but as of now…………………………you cannot say………….or ever can say with without certainty that it didn't cause your current engine meltdown!!! See my point??!!

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My point was that knowing where they are at might be worth the small cost. Mine run great, never had an issue and they still are failing a test ( I am still awaiting the test results). Many CR injectors fail from one day to the next and you have more miles on them than most. What is the down time worth to you? What is it occurs on a ND trip? When they fail to close they generally take the cylinder with them. Just my .02. I know you don't believe it, but there are several things that could have caused it. The timing cover comes off for other stuff as well, but as I have said in the engine thread there isn't any evidence, none, of damage caused by the bolt. Recall the motor didn't meltdown, in fact it ran until I shut it down and did no internal damage. It was torn down for piece of mind, it could have been "fixed" already but the fear of the unknown isn't worth it. That's my point on 200k mile injectors in a CR. A walking cam gear, or broken cam gear from an external source would be different. When you have to replace your front main you will subject your timing case to the same exact thing your blaming, sight unseen ill add, my failure on. How many people replace front mains without an issue, or fix the KDP? I cannot find a single case where your suggestion took out gears, just sayin...

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My point was that knowing where they are at might be worth the small cost. Mine run great, never had an issue and they still are failing a test ( I am still awaiting the test results). Many CR injectors fail from one day to the next and you have more miles on them than most. What is the down time worth to you? What is it occurs on a ND trip? When they fail to close they generally take the cylinder with them. Just my .02. I know you don't believe it, but there are several things that could have caused it. The timing cover comes off for other stuff as well, but as I have said in the engine thread there isn't any evidence, none, of damage caused by the bolt. Recall the motor didn't meltdown, in fact it ran until I shut it down and did no internal damage. It was torn down for piece of mind, it could have been "fixed" already but the fear of the unknown isn't worth it. That's my point on 200k mile injectors in a CR. A walking cam gear, or broken cam gear from an external source would be different. When you have to replace your front main you will subject your timing case to the same exact thing your blaming, sight unseen ill add, my failure on. How many people replace front mains without an issue, or fix the KDP? I cannot find a single case where your suggestion took out gears, just sayin...

10-4!! That's why I worded this post as I did…………………to get an "honest" response!! Thanks!!:thankyou:

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Like AH64ID has pointed out that average life span of the CR injectors it might be a good idea to have them tested to be sure they are not lets say borderline functional. It would be a nice piece of mind knowing that the injectors are still serviceable.

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I got my injectors back, they were out of spec on the quantity at minimum injection time by less than 1 mm3. If it weren't for the fact that I need to spend money to get a different injection angle they would be going back in. At the normal flow rate they are ±1.7%.Not bad piece of mind. So they are for sale if you want a cheaper than new alternative :-)

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You know with all those miles on it now and all the little things and major things coming up closer to failing time you should just quit losing sleep over the whole thing and sell it and get something with less miles so you won't have all these little things weighing you down and on the back of your mind all the time as you are driving down the road.:lol3:I will start the bidding at $500.00...................................:cheers: :stirthepot:BTW Mr. aka Harry Johnson this song is for you.:lmao2:

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I will start the bidding at $500.00...................................:cheers::stirthepot:

$501.00...........

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Rolled past 199,199 today coming home from pheasant hunting today!!:smart:

You got a good chance of catching me now being the truck has been parked for over 1 month now and continues to be parked. Diesel is still $4.069 and unleaded is now down to $3.129... Not even worth firing up the diesel any more. :cry:

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I am still only at about 215,000 on my 01. Now that my commute is only about 5 miles I dont rack up the miles any more. I used to clear between 80-100 miles a day on average. Cant wait to move back to the country...

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