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jncornett

multiple codes

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jncornett    0
jncornett

New to the forum previous owner of a 05 common rail.....soon to own 01 24 valve... Thanks in advance.. i just gave my word to buy an 01 2500 4X4 24 valve automatic truck... the truck is being sold because the vp is going out...i looked over the truck it looks fine starts fine but has these codes:ECU, p0122 apps/tps sensor voltage low,p0236 map sensor voltage too high too long, p0522 oil pressure sensor voltage low ,p0562 supply voltage low at ecm, p1488 auxiliary 5 volts supply output to low ECU done, PCU p1693 Pcu done.... am i crazy or did this truck just see low voltage and go to limp mode it was single digits when this happened along with the first and only dead pedal... owner has invested a lot of money and the truck has been one thing after the next and he is off loading it as is.. not spending another penny on it... whats your opinions the truck is bone stock.. new engine with 30,000 on the clock 170,000 miles on the rest of the chassis..

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Mopar1973Man    3,786
Mopar1973Man

Well the APPS sensor might need to be replace or reset. I would try reseting first then if the dead pedal and the code returns then the APPS is done and needs replacement. The P0236 code is a MAP sensor problemmost likely and the sensor had failed... The low voltage codes is most likely a wiring fault, alternator issue, or blown alternator fuse... But I wonder why the engine was replaced? The engines will travel up to 1 million miles without being rebuilt. Talk to CajFlynn he's going on 760K+ miles on a 2001 Dodge...

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LiveOak    71
LiveOak

The chance of all of these sensors going bad at once is slim to near impossible. I suggest you remove, clean, reconnect and spray with a a good corrosion preventative ALL of the ground connections in the system harness including the batteries. I would also check each battery with a hydrometer. Were these batteries replaced as a pair or individually? I think you have some electrical gremlins somewhere. I would be interested as to why the original engine was replace too???

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jncornett    0
jncornett

The chance of all of these sensors going bad at once is slim to near impossible. I suggest you remove, clean, reconnect and spray with a a good corrosion preventative ALL of the ground connections in the system harness including the batteries. I would also check each battery with a hydrometer. Were these batteries replaced as a pair or individually? I think you have some electrical gremlins somewhere. I would be interested as to why the original engine was replace too???

Thanks for the quick replies.. the previous engine had a problem with one of the cylinders... rings.... wrist pin.... idk ...all the owner could tell me was the brass thing in the cylinder broke and since they were in there he had a complete rebuild/ freshen up done to the whole engine it truly runs great...so im confused and i hope i havent made a bad choice in commiting to buy this truck..

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gassernomore    12
gassernomore

Check under the drivers side battery tray. There is suppose to be a group of wires there that are connected to the ECU. The eyelet can disolve because of the acid and cause problems.

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jncornett    0
jncornett

awesome thanks for the heads up.... I kinda thought the toaster fired up and maybe the alternator wasnt putting out the voltage and or the batteries were weak.. they apear to be the same brand guessing replaced at the same time.. although the truck sat for a month and started tonight for the first time without hesitation..

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jncornett    0
jncornett

Not yet going to finish up the deal on tuesday and throw it on a gooseneck and bring it home.... I hope to get started on it tuesday afternoon. I really hope its something simple like a fuse or loose dirty grounds time will tell...Although i did find out it has an edge ez, remote start and aftermarket head lights That i missed on my first pass around the truck.. the ez may have caused the map code through some research on other forums i apears a blown iod fuse will cause the voltage codes.... I dont know about the apps yet I really hope shes just in limp mode... But I feel a VP swap in the near future.. last one took an hour and fourty five minutes on a friends truck this summer.. I hope to knock a little time off this one lol. Thanks for checking in on me ill post what i find when i have it home and get started haha guess its time to get the scan gaugeII back out of the box to clear these codes... By the way will it clear/read the pcm codes? I got it shortly before selling my 05 and really havent used it to its potential.

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Mopar1973Man    3,786
Mopar1973Man

guess its time to get the scan gaugeII back out of the box to clear these codes... By the way will it clear/read the pcm codes? I got it shortly before selling my 05 and really havent used it to its potential.

Yes the SG II will clear codes in both computers...

the ez may have caused the map code

Yes.. The EZ is to blame for the MAP codes. I would unplug it and reset the codes and see if it returns.

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jncornett    0
jncornett

Hey guys got the truck home pulled the edge ez off cleared the codes..... All of the codes cleared but apps and map sensor stopped by the dealer and got a map sensor ouch!!! The map code is now gone and I guess its a trip to cummins tomorrow for the apps.. Little over an hour drive but they are about $200 less than the dealer none of which has one in stock within a 50 mile radious... I checked around the wireng a little but my gut says just replace it.... Its prolly time at 165kish miles.. I presume the ez took a dump and created the low voltage problem..Could have sworn he told me it happened while he was driving but today he said he started the truck to leave put it in gear and thats when the check engine light came on... none the less im keeping my fingers crossed that ill have her on the road for about $600 instead of $1500 thanks everyone for your help.

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gassernomore    12
gassernomore

Don't spend more than $160 for an APPS. There is 1 member on the site that sells them. I have heard of guys spending close to $450 for one from the dealer.

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jncornett    0
jncornett

I used this to start trouble shooting.. DTC P0122: ACCELERATOR POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE TOO LOWDescriptionAccelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) voltage is monitored when engine is running. DTC may be stored iflow voltage is detected on APPS signal circuit or low voltage is detected between Engine Control Module(ECM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Possible causes are: defective APPS, defective ECM, defectivePCM, or defective connectors or wiring.Testing1. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using scan tool, check for ECM and PCM DTCs. If DTC P0122 isstored in both ECM and PCM, go to next step. If DTC P0122 is not stored in both ECM and PCM, go tostep 8 .2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS sensor connector. APPS is located on bracket, just above fuelinjection pump. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage betweencylinder block and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If voltage ismore than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 4.5 volts or less, go to step 7 . I had 5 volts to ground here on to step 3 3. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Measure resistance between terminal No.4 (Black/Yellow wire) and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If resistance isgreater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short between Dark Blue/Whiteand Black/Yellow wires. The Black/Yellow wire is the sensor ground circuit. no resistance and no short that i can find 4. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's sideof engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Measureresistance between ground and terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) on APPS connector. If resistanceis greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short to ground in LightBlue/Black wire. no resistance and no short that i could find 5. Ensure APPS and ECM connectors are still disconnected. Measure resistance between ground andterminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to nextstep. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Dark Blue/White wire. no resistance cant find a short to ground, no continuity to ground 6. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Reconnect ECM connector. Measureresistance between terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) onAPPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, replace APPS. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short betweenLight Blue/Black and Black/Yellow wire. The Black/Yellow wire is the sensor ground circuit. no resistance no continuity to ground cant find a short 7. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's sideof engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Using DVOM,measure resistance in Dark Blue/White wire between terminal No. 5 on APPS connector and terminal No.31 on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace ECM. If resistance is 5 ohms or more,repair Dark Blue/White wire. no resistance soo it looks like i need an ecm.... this is as far as i got today between rain showers i will try to finish the last 5 tests friday... any thoughts....:confused: I ordered the replacement apps sensor from m1973m page it will be here in a few days.. figured it couldnt hurt 8. Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM connectors. PCM is located at passenger's side rear corner of enginecompartment. Measure resistance between cylinder block and terminal No. 23 (Orange/DarkBlue wire) on PCM connector C1. This is the APPS signal wire and goes to terminal No. 28(Orange/Dark Blue wire) on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. Ifresistance is 5 ohms or more, go to step 10 .:confused:

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gassernomore    12
gassernomore

Did you ever check the wires underneath the battery tray? Those are part of the Ecm wires.

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jncornett    0
jncornett

Yeah that was the first thing I checked they were clean and tight. to be honest I was suprised there wasnt any acid damage under it..I talked to a couple of different people who are 90% sure the new apps will take care of the problem (bluechip, tst,and a guy i trust at the dealer 40 miles away).. Im still puzzled as to why troubleshooting guide suggested i shuld see resistance on those wires that wasnt there and said they were shorted to ground yet they didnt have continuity to ground.. it has me confused because it just happened all the sudden. Really leads me to believe its electronics to blame somewhere. It did white smoke and ran very rough for about 30 seconds when it started today after cleaning grounds and clearing the code; as soon as i hit the go stick the engine light came back on. On another note the scan gauge II says i only have 1 code the key trick still shows all of the codes posted at the begining of this post.. I thought that was strange they are all low voltage codes exept the map code... Is that typical that the cluster says one thing and the scanner says something else or is that another sign that the ecm /pcm may be done.

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jncornett    0
jncornett

Check under the drivers side battery tray. There is suppose to be a group of wires there that are connected to the ECU. The eyelet can disolve because of the acid and cause problems.

Thanks for the heads up I ended up taking the engine harness out of the truck; those grounds on that welded termial were absolutely horrible!!! At first look I checked them it looked clean but it was so corroded it was brownish orange... not white, green or any color ive seen battery grounds change too from corrosion... Had to remove 2" of wire to get to clean copper... new ring terminals and some solder took care of that along with a new bond to the ground cable directly to the grounding post on the body.. I sent my ecm out for repair and something didnt sit right with me.... so i took the engine harness out all of the wire for apps were intact. in fact all of the wires were intact except 1 signal ground that was broken at the splice in the harness near the ecm I got it all back together waiting on tne ecm should be home no later then friday... the map sensor has me boggled and the oil pressure sender as well although they were both ecm problems still puzzled me...Map had good 5 volts good sensor groung and had 4.8 volts on the signal wire unhooked from the sensor( checked before ecm was removed from the truck). definate short and the oil sender was giving voltage and working fine but was throwing a code prolly the ground issue I also found the grid heaters were sticking on for a while. I unhooked them for the time being I ll fix them this spring.. I also replaced the batteries they needed it... Thanks again to every one who offered help.

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jncornett    0
jncornett

Just wanted to say thanks again and let you guys know i got the truck running and back on the road today... long list of new parts... lift pump ad100, ecm,pcm, both sent out for repair..iat and map sensors replaced. timbo apps, and last but not least a new ip.. not complaining though i figured i would end up investing 2K into this truck to get it on the road so im am happy.. it cost a little more then i hoped but all is good

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