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Parking Brake Cable Advice/knowledge

eddielee
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eddielee

eddielee

Posted
Posted

So I am attempting to get my parking brake to work and it seems like it is assembled wrong.

It is a 2500 with a cummins, but the engine shouldn't matter.

 

This is the splice for the front to the right rear cable

post-2212-0-46930600-1390250003_thumb.jp

 

this is the adjuster which seems to be wrong, I cannot see how ti can work this way.

post-2212-0-79886900-1390250122_thumb.jp

 

here is why I cannot see it work, it is attached to the right rear cable housing and seems to have no action...

post-2212-0-66869300-1390250183_thumb.jp

 

So it seems to me that the adjuster should be attached to the splice rather than to the cable housing, however, I am unsure as to what it really should look like.

 

I would appreciate a pic of a good working cable and adjuster from a 2500.

Thank you,

ED

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eddielee

eddielee

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This setup would mean that the drivers side would not actuate and only the passenger side will. If you look at the pic you posted m1973man the passenger side cable is the only one that has clean cable showing.

 

Is this a flaw in the design? I wonder if there is a way to fix it. so they will both actuate...

Edited by eddielee
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AGPTurbo

AGPTurbo

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Eddie,

I literally just came in from adjusting mine and saw this post.  The threaded adjuster can be run down the threads a few inches judging by the pictures you posted.  I did the wheel adjustments first by raising the rear of the truck, blocking the front wheels and putting the t-case in neutral.  Then begin by adjusting the star wheels behind the rubber plugs until you just hear the shoes drag when spinning the tires.  I still couldn't get the parking brake pedal to come all the way up enough to turn off the light off on its own, so I began to adjust the cables at the threaded adjuster you are showing.  I didn't have a socket deep enough, so I cut off about an inch of the treads on the forward end.  Then its a 13mm deep well, some PB and vice grips to adjust. Be sure to use a wire brush to knock scale off of the adjuster threads if you can, and begin to turn slowly in each direction. Then once is starts to spin easy, tighten to remove slack.

 

 I took about an inch of slack out of mine, now she works perfect! These types of systems works well when its used daily , periodically adjusted, and lubed when needed. The upper (passenger side) cable gets pulled by the main cable and it takes the drivers cable along for the ride.  So I agree yours looks ok.  

Hope this helps ya.

AP

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eddielee

eddielee

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Ok, so when I took my drum off the inside was wet with oil, I already replaced the wheel cylinder and am sure this is not the cause.

So it is the wheel seal. I have been looking for a write-up on replacement of the wheel seal and cannot find it.

I would appreciate any help, link or description of the process.

 

As for the cable it appears from what Wrench Thrower said about one cable pulling the other that mine should not be crimped in the guide behind the connector. I will release the pressure and see if that helps on the parking brake being set.

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MnTom

MnTom

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The axle seal is pretty straight forward. Pull the axle, pull out the small keeper between the nut and axle tube, unscrew the 2 9/16" nut, pull hub off. Turn the hub so the inside is pointed up and pry the seal out. Assembly is reverse of tear down. Just becareful to not let the hub hang on the axle tube without having the outer brearing in place. If you let it hang you stand a pretty good chance of ruining the seal.

Edited by MnTom
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eddielee

eddielee

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Is there a decent list of part numbers somewhere?

I am looking for the wheel seal and am confused as to which one to get no matter where I look.

These statements make me question what I am looking for...

Rear; 9.25" R.G.; Exc. H/D Axle   &   Rear; 13" X 2.5" Brakes

 

I think I want the 13" x 2.5" Brakes one, however, there are also ones listed as inner and others do not say outer.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
eddielee

eddielee

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The axle seal is pretty straight forward. Pull the axle, pull out the small keeper between the nut and axle tube, unscrew the 2 9/16" nut, pull hub off. Turn the hub so the inside is pointed up and pry the seal out. Assembly is reverse of tear down. Just becareful to not let the hub hang on the axle tube without having the outer brearing in place. If you let it hang you stand a pretty good chance of ruining the seal.

I was just wanting to get a second on the socket I need for this job. I can get 2 different kinds one with rounded corners and one with sharp corners.

I believe that all the corners on the nut are rounded from looking at it earlier...

 

Ishould be able to use this socket below correct?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-1928?seid=srese1&gclid=CJbAtef84rwCFS1p7AodkGsAzw

 

Thank you

 

PS went to Northern Tool and got a normal 2 9/16 socket and it was too big profile wise...

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  • 5 months later...
eddielee

eddielee

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So all seemed to go fine. I replaced the seals and bearings just after posting and feeling confident.

The other day I noticed that the passenger side rear wheel had what appeared to be brake fluid again but it must be gear oil as the brake fluid has not gone down.

Damn, back to it again, grrr. The only things I can think of would be a burr, I didn't grease that side, or I hit my brakes too hard earlier that day...

Brakes shouldn't effect that. I did my best not to put excessive pressure on the seal.

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MnTom

MnTom

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Your brakes won't have anything to do with the seal. I have seen others leak shortly after a seal was put in and it seems to be the right side too. I don't know what is up with that, but when I replaced mine it has stayed dry. Now I went and jixed myself for a seal problem just like the input shaft after I said mine was doing good........

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eddielee

eddielee

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I took the axle out at Napa and it seems to have been the flange seal as the bolts were only hand tight!!!

I replaced the flange seal and torqued the flange bolts too.

 

Will check the vent to make sure it is open. Thank you all!!

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