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Aux Input For Oem Stock Stereo Diy Not Infinity


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A few weeks ago I ordered some 3.5mm headphone jacks to try and wire up an AUX input into my radio.   I did see a write-up on here for the Infinity system, but not the cd/cassette Chrysler radio with the  number p04704383ah on the top.  Finally got the parts in today to start in on this.  Spent a bit of time looking and didn't find anything in regards to this radio.  

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You will need
- Radio
- Headphone jack with internal Switch
- Soldering iron
- Heat Shrink
- 5 pieces of wire (3x6") (2x3")
- Phillips Screw Driver
- Multimeter
- SuperGlue
- Needle Nose
- Small Flat head screw driver

The headphone jacks I ordered have a left / Right / Ground / and a 2 pole single throw switch.  This allows for you to route a signal, such as the radio, though the head phone jack when not in use and disable the signal coming for the radio when you put the headphone jack in.  HERE is the jack I used. or searching on EBAY for "3.5 headphone jack switch".  I am sure Radioshack has something similar, but I didn't have a chance to look.    You will be responsible for understanding how the jack you ended up with works.  Since different jacks will have different prongs etc I cannot tell you which prongs go where.  Use a multimeter to determine what prongs do what when there is nothing plugged in and when there is something plugged in.  The jack I bought has a clear cover which made it easy to see how it worked.

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I ended up using a larger wire and heat shrink but you get the idea behind the wiring.

First you need to disassemble the radio.  Ensure to take note of how things go together because you will have to put it back together.  If you are unsure about something take a picture of it.  This DIY isn't meant to be a ste by step guide to disassemble the radio.  

There are two screws holding the top cover on towards the top back left and right of the radio. Once those are removing you can pull off the cover.

Next you need to remove the cd player.  Do this by removing the phillips head screws holding the cd player in place.  They are located towards the front of the unit on the left and right hand side on top.  You can pull the cd player section straight up, take care to disconnect the ribbon cable under the cd player. Picture shows the approx location of the screws holding in the CD playerf0127ab4-1485-42b1-a20a-f25503c0ea5c_zps

Next remove the faceplate of the radio.  There are 2 screws on both the left and right hand side of the radio holding the plastic faceplate on.  You will need to remove the volume knob and equalizer slider knobs. There are also 4 clips hold the bottom and top of the faceplate to the rest of the radio.  Gently pop them loose.
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You will end up with this.
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the middle board is the next to come out.   It is what you will be altering to make the AUX input work.  There are 4 bent metal fingers holding this board into place.  They are locked in place with solder so you will need to use the soldering gun to melt the solder and bend the metal fingers straight.  Take care to not pull it too hard.  There are 5 different connections on this board that you need to pop loose to remove the board and one ribbon cable that connects to the tape deck.  The red dots on the above picture around the edge of board #3 are the bent metal Fingers you need to straighten.  You will also need to remove/bend out slightly the tuner module from the passenger side of the radio.  It connects to the board you need to remove, but can't unless the tuner is swung out of the way.

The Front case section and board will come out as one piece
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The main connections you will be working with are the Tuner input and the Amp input

Once you get this board out use a small flat head to scratch off a section on the two circuits shown.    You will need to ensure that there is no continuity between the amp input and tuner input connectors.  Using the wire you will effectively put the headphone jack in place of that circuit. You can find the circuit in the back right hand side of the board, You can see brown marks from a sharpie in the above images.
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Next you will need to solder in the two short sections of the wires from your supplies to the Radio Tuner board input.  The connector is located on the front of the radio to the right hand side if the radioface is pointed towards you.
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Here are the pins you want to connect your wires to.
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These short sections of the wire go to the switch poles on the headphone jack.  Left and Right don't really matter as the amp controls which signals go to what speakers.

At this point if you have a quality radioshack soldering iron you will need to sand off the grime20140123_190925_zpse5cjbodm.jpg
:rof:banghead:

Next you need to connect the input prongs of the headphone jack and ground to the Amp input connector. to do this flip over the above board and solder on the L/R/G from the headphone jack.  These prongs on the jack will be the ones that make direct connection to the actual jack.
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Once the poles in the headphone jack and the input for the headphone jack are wires onto the board test the amp input and tuner input for continuity between the two on both the right and left channels.  There shouldn't be any continuity when something is plugged into the headphone jack.  When the headphone jack is empty however there should be continuity, effectively passing the tuner signal through the headphone jack and into the amp.  Once you verify that the jack is working as it should then you can move on.

Next reinstall the board into the Radio case.  Take care to line up all the connectors.  This takes a little time, but isn't too tough. Rebend the metal fingers holding the board down.  once the board is back in place route the jack and wires through the hole in the case for the tape deck.
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Once that is done you just have to drill a hole into the faceplate of the radio and mount your headphone jack.  I chose to mount it in the tape deck flap since I don't think I own a tape anymore.  If you choose this method you will need to superglue the tape deckflap closed.  From my looking I couldn't find a location that my jack would actually fit, you might find a better place.
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Run the wires for the switch through the opening in the case for the tape deck. Insert your headphone jack into the hole you created and tighten it down.  

At this point you will want to reinstall the cd player on top of the board you were working with.   Take care to ensure that the wires you soldered into place are not being pinched.  Once that is done reinstall the faceplate and the volume knob and equalizer knobs and the screws holding it in place.

Reinstall the top to the radio and any remaining screws and test.  

Mine sounds great. plug in my phone when the radio is in tuner mode and it switches to Aux-in from my phone.  :blues::party018::thumbsup:

Let me know if there is any confusing bits.

Edited by me78569
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me78569 ...... good info, thank you.

 

I just received my P04704383 in the mail yesterday.  It has the auxiliary input installed. 

On the back of the radio, there are two tabs that appear to be electrical connections, although the tabs are part of the radio chassis.

Also, there is a two pin plug beside the black and grey big plugs. My wiring harness suffered some butchery, and that plug is missing.  Any idea what it is?

Sorry for the simplistic questions ..........

Thanks

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the ones on the back connected to the chassis is the ground connection for the radio.

 

I am not sure what the white two pin does.  Mine is not connected.  I am unable to find  much info in regards to the radio itself. 

 

If you are feeling adventurist I would love for you to pop open your unit and take pictures of how you Aux is wired in. 

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I would gladly do that, but the radio has two seals on it, and there is no warranty if they've been broken.

 

The auxiliary comes off the front lower right ....

The pics of the rear of the radio show the two pin socket.

 

Thanks Greg

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me78569 ..... have installed the P04704383 ....

It will show the time with the ignition off.  Push the volume knob in. 

Have no idea what the auxiliary input is for, or can do ...... 

Will probably change out the stock speakers at some time .... replace with a higher quality 'stock replacement' type.  Any recommendations ?

 

Weighed the boom box speaker, amp, all wiring, radio - handheld changer, and mounting panel under the amp = 41lbs.

 

It's nice to get the OEM optional radio installed.  Now have room behind the seat .....

Thanks for answering my questions .... much appreciated.

 

www.allpar.com .... is a good website concerning these Mopar OEM radios. Lots of info there.

Edited by Macarena Man
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me78569 ..... have installed the P04704383 ....

It will show the time with the ignition off.  Push the volume knob in. 

Have no idea what the auxiliary input is for, or can do ......

That is so you can play your music from your phone, ipod, or even your computer if you want.

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I still have boxes full of cassettes that I listen to a lot, so giving up a good cassette slot is a crime in my book.

 

Heck I have a cousin that drives a mid 70's thunderbird with a functional 8 track player and he still uses and buys up 8 track cassettes at rummage sales if he can find them.

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I still have boxes full of cassettes that I listen to a lot, so giving up a good cassette slot is a crime in my book.

 

Heck I have a cousin that drives a mid 70's thunderbird with a functional 8 track player and he still uses and buys up 8 track cassettes at rummage sales if he can find them.

Me too! I even have a functional 8 track player and a few tapes yet!

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I don't have any so I threw the jack in there since it was easiest.  You could through the jack on the side somewhere, but that's up to the person.  I would rather have everything contained.  The rest of the faceplate is pretty full. 

 

I myself don't use a tape ever so it worked good. 

 

 

And here I thought this was a cool QIY never thought I would get so much hate and no people going awesome hahaha :lmao:

Edited by me78569
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I used some pioneer speakers from BestBuy. I am very impressed with the sound quality from them. I do have an aftermarket kenwood head unit that puts out a little more power than a normal aftermarket unit. I just did the door speakers and it made a world of difference. The stock speakers were the infinitys but they couldnt keep up with my new head unit.

 

For anyone who is looking for aftermarket stereo equipmtent, check out these two sites:

 

www.crutchfield.com/‎

www.sonicelectronix.com/‎

 

I have had really good experiences with both places.

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It was a Kenwood KDC-MP435U that I removed from my '02 Regular Cab, with a Sony Xplod 600 amp, and a EFX 10" with speaker box .....

 

The OEM Mopar radios have big buttons, and aren't too complicated ..... perfect for a guy with five thumbs per side!

The OEM optional 'RAZ' unit has good sound ....

 

Thanks for the speaker info ..... much appreciated.

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