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Is anyone running Delo 400 MG 15w-40 instead of Delo 400 LE 15w-40

 

I can only find the MG at a local Oil distrubutor referenced from the chevron web site for  $82.30 for 5 gal ($16.46 per gal). The stuff should be $10 a gal if walmart carried it.

 

 

 

 

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Any decent diesel oil available at Walmart? They are everywhere. Delo here fluctuates between $11 and $18 per gallon at the parts stores depending on sales.

Any real savings buying in larger containers? I notice mike has a nice big collection of larger vessels.

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Any real savings buying in larger containers?

 

You'd think there would be a savings , but 5 gallons for $82.30 isnt saving . That is $16.50 per gal

 

Walmart  is $12.00 for LE ,but they dont stock MG. Either does Napa or any parts stores Ive stopped at . MG is supposed to be less expensive than LE

 

Im searching for other places to get MG cheaper

Edited by GSP7
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But they only compared the LE (low emission) and that's the one for 2007 and later diesel vehicleS.

I often find myself straying off topic a bit. But seems like it fits in. When you do an oil change or even at regular startup the oil pressure seems to lag for a few seconds. Does the residual oil adequately lubricate engine parts during this "dry" period? It is especially long after an oil change. Maybe one advantage of increasing I intervals between oil changes through the use of a bypass oil filter system. Plus I've been changing paper at 1000 miles in attempt to remove built up sludge and deposits in the engine from 170,000 miles of spin on oil filter alone. In this procedure and adding 1 quart of fresh oil every 1,000 miles I'm doing the equivalent of a full oil change every 12,000 miles. But with the added advantage of better filtration of smaller particles. Kinda wonder if there is ever a need for full oil change in this procedure? Maybe change the spin on one time a year to make sure it doesn't break down and start sending filter medium through the engine.

My dipstick used to show much dirtier oil than it currently does. In the last it would look pretty black almost immediately after changing oil. Maybe someday I can reduce frequency of bypass paper change.

Edited by joecool911
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There is plently of oil left over that you wont have a dry start and the color of oil doesnt indicate the condition of oil.

I hear what you're saying, because soot is so fine that it doesn't get filtered out even with smaller micron filters. But if it's black after 50 miles, that tells me there is crud in the motor that's not getting filtered out I don't have any blow by. All of my gasser's had a fairly linear clean to dirty personality. Although I admit that the darkness is not really opaque like dirty oil is. But I figure if I'm making progress towards cleaner that's a good thing.

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Soot being so fine may actually act as a lubricant like graphite does?

Not to my knowledge. It is actually somewhat abrasive, but oil is designed to keep small particles in suspension so they get carried away when you drop the oil out. That is why you can take a sample of oil and see how your engine is doing internally. Also the particles are so fine they are completely surrounded by oil. The oil itself does not wear out but the additives get depleted and the particulate amount is the main reason to drain it.

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Your  'black'  oil  at  50 miles   probably isn't as   dark as  you may think!     When  it's on  a   solid  object,  such as  a  dipstick,   it looks  almost  like  ink   doesn't  it?       Take a  dab  and  smear it  out  on clear glass....    it  looks a  lot   more  amber  all of  a sudden!     

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