Both Rear Calipers Dragging

[joecool911]

Ok. The rebuild went well. Hardest part is getting the dust boot to seat. I used a short piece of 2" PVC pipe schedule 40. Electrical conduit in 2" would work also. Then set a 1x2 across the pvc and another 1x2 set vertically. This enabled me to pound the dust boot into the groove and seat it. I don't think you could get it in with a punch or something. When you hit the high side the low side pops out. The pistons were really tight in the bores. Got them to drop under their own weight as directed. There really is nt much to go wrong with these calipers. This should be able to be repeated as many times as needed. Thanks guys. Going to slap them on tomorrow. Fortunately the recently new pads didn't take too much punishment due to dragging.

Edited March 9, 2014 by joecool911

[MnTom]

I gotta get some clear tubing to bleed brakes. Anyone know the size?

1/4" OD should be just what you want.

[joecool911]

Ok, all done. Lubed slider pins really well. Everything would have gone great with the install of the calipers, except for the banjo washers I lost that to on the underside of the brake line connection to the caliper. Had to run and get 2 new ones so I got 4 new ones. Will not seal without the inside washers which I did not see at any point of the removal or rebuild of the calipers. But if you look at the sealing surfaces of the brake line, it is recessed. So no way for them to seal without those banjo washers. Live n learn.

The power bleeder is awesome! Pumped it up to 10psi. Not sure what it should be, but the instructions said to not exceed 20psi and consult your repair manual. Could find no specs, but 10 worked great. If you had 4 hunks of clear tubing, one for each wheel it would be even faster. Just crack, check pressure in bleeder, tip tubing so that the natural curve is up and wait for clear fluid without bubbles. Tighten bleeder screw and move to the next. Repeat procedure. Awesome! Took about 10 minutes to do all 4 calipers without an assistant. Only thing remains is what to clean the power bleeder with. Not supposed to store the fluid in it. Wondering about acetone?

I'd highly recommend the Motive power bleeder to anyone. I got the single vehicle application. Fits most Mopar and jeep products. You can order new caps for other vehicles separately or order the whole Mary Ann as a kit. We've got 3 Mopar rigs, so thTs all I really need for now. If a friend wants his brakes done, I'll have him order his own reservoir cap/adapter.

Edited March 10, 2014 by joecool911

[diesel4life]

Once you use one, you'll never bleed/flush lines any other way again. I just did a brake job on a Grand Am for someone and snagged my cousins power bleeder to flush the lines before putting everything back together.

[joecool911]

100 miles today and brake calipers were cold when I got home. So the rebuild was a success and no more dragging. What I learned was that it's pretty easy to do and there is no reason to omit regular caliper rebuilding. For the cost of pads and rotors, $4 a caliper for parts is cheap and smart as it will improve reliability. Fronts next. Probably no write up or comments as it would be more of the same old broken record.

[JAG1]

Don't know how true this is..... was told today that it's best to replace the pistons with steel ones as the phenolic resin stock pistons swell with time in the fluid. I just went with the old ones because it seems once you use the 600 grit paper so they drop in they are already swollen as far as they will by that time anyway.

I almost bought the brake bleeder with the pressure gauge for $45.oo. But soon discovered bleeding was very easy with the wife working the pedal.

In the end I wondered why my brake shop acts like everything I ask them to do is such a big hard job/ big deal as the job of rebuilding my calipers was so easy. Thanks Mopar Mike for the coaching.

Edited May 4, 2014 by JAG1

[flagmanruss]

After a winter of only occasional use...  my truck is in the shop.  On my list is check all wheels for brake drag.  Both my rear calipers were seized.  SOooo  new rear discs & rebuilt calipers on there now.  Other work progressing at a

snails pace.  Hung up for parts... 

[joecool911]

Don't know how true this is..... was told today that it's best to replace the pistons with steel ones as the phenolic resin stock pistons swell with time in the fluid. I just went with the old ones because it seems once you use the 600 grit paper so they drop in they are already swollen as far as they will by that time anyway.

I almost bought the brake bleeder with the pressure gauge for $45.oo. But soon discovered bleeding was very easy with the wife working the pedal.

In the end I wondered why my brake shop acts like everything I ask them to do is such a big hard job/ big deal as the job of rebuilding my calipers was so easy. Thanks Mopar Mike for the coaching.

I figured the same as you. Especially if you tear them down every 30-40k miles.

[JAG1]

I figured the same as you. Especially if you tear them down every 30-40k miles.

Yes Joe, I only have about 80,000 miles, had 3 calipers stick tight so far. Not worth the trouble not to rebuild 'em each time you put new pads.

 

I can't believe these brake shops letting almost 400,000 miles go on the clock (my old first gen) without changing wheel cylinders, calipers and leaving me with the dirty fluid. I always told them do what it needs when I go in. It's amazing.

 

I don't like drum brakes on the old truck but, my 2nd gen has disc all around. They are too easy.

 

From now on I'll do it all myself.

 

Cannot help wondering how much labor I saved having done both trucks, all eight wheels, calipers rebuilt, all new fluid, pads and wheel cylinders on rear of 1st gen.

Edited June 18, 2014 by JAG1

[Mopar1973Man]

was told today that it's best to replace the pistons with steel ones as the phenolic resin stock pistons swell with time in the fluid.

 

 

I would of kept the old phenolic pistons over the steel ones. Brake fluid is hygroscopic so as brake fluid ages it collects water and what does water do to steel? Rust it out... 

 

 

as the phenolic resin stock pistons swell with time in the fluid.

 

 

They don't swell. What happens is the heat transferred to pistons now cakes the brake fluid up on the pistons over time. The phenolic pistons don't ever change size per say but the caked up brake fluid does occur.

[joecool911]

Yes Joe, I only have about 80,000 miles, had 3 calipers stick tight so far. Not worth the trouble not to rebuild 'em each time you put new pads.

I can't believe these brake shops letting almost 400,000 miles go on the clock (my old first gen) without changing wheel cylinders, calipers and leaving me with the dirty fluid. I always told them do what it needs when I go in. It's amazing.

I don't like drum brakes on the old truck but, my 2nd gen has disc all around. They are too easy.

From now on I'll do it all myself.

Cannot help wondering how much labor I saved having done both trucks, all eight wheels, calipers rebuilt, all new fluid, pads and wheel cylinders on rear of 1st gen.

To me, getting the truck off the ground and tires off is half the work. Removing 2 bolts to remove calipers seems pretty easy. Then with the power bleeder, that part is easy too. Rebuilding takes like 15 mins each and $5 in parts per wheel.

[JAG1]

No power bleeder here, but do have a good impact wrench. Never knew how much work it saved till I got one.

Also, A very nice elderly lady gave me an old clicker type Snap-On torque wrench. Very first Sap-On I ever had in my hands. It's fun to use it.

[joecool911]

Nice thing about the power bleeder is you put on a clear piece of tubing, open the bleeder and run it until you see no bubbles. No messing with a bottle of fluid and pumping the brake pedal. Plus it's a one-man job.

[eddielee]

Brake flush to get any air/water out!! I had a lock up issue due to air. with these trucks I believe the rear and front actuate separate and this could be an issue!

Edited July 13, 2014 by eddielee