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Some history..laid my truck up for winter, got it out and did a oil change and fuel filter change before I started driving it. Drained the fuel bowl so I bumped the starter about 5-6 times to allow it to fill before I started it, still ran dry of fuel. Cracked injectors and got it running but was stumbling a bit from air. Lasted about 1/2 hr before it cleared but also caused engine light on with 1690 code. Finally cleared up and light out, but the truck still has a different sound then i'm used to, more of a pingy sound and once in a while it seems to stumble when taking off.

 

Today about a month since the first case, I started it and engine light came on and stumbling alot @ idle, clears itself at about 1200 rpms and work fine, good power. Called my local Cummins dealer and talked to the guy I go to, he said from his info he'd point to the crankshaft sensor first if he had it there as its the cheapest and easiest place to start. I put a new sensor in and started it up, still runs like crap. So next it checking for wire chafes I guess and wondering if anyone experienced the same thing and where they found the problem. May help me cut some time and searching down

 

Have video but cant upload it here

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Have video but cant upload it here

 

 

Upload it to YouTube and copy the URL and post it here. The site will automatically parse the URL into a video box.

 

Here is the code..

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hb_DpieasVI

 

 

Usually at idle with my Fuel Boss I hold 16psi, when ascting like this it's holding at about 11psi. Take the rpm's to about 1200 and you can hardly tell I have any issues going on, go back to idle and you hear what's happening. Swaped the crank sensor yesterday with a new one, seems to be worse actually but maybe it's coincidence.

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DTC P1690: FUEL INJECTION PUMP CKP SENSOR DOES NOT AGREE WITH ECM CKP SENSOR

 

Monitor & Set Conditions

Fuel Injection Pump Crankshaft Position (CKP) circuit is monitored when ignition is on and engine is running. DTC may be stored when no signal exists within specified window parameters with no Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor or CKP DTCs present.

 

Possible Causes

  • AC Noise Across Fuel Transfer Pump
  • Other DTCs Present
  • Wiring & Connectors
  • Fuel Injection Pump Static Timing
  • Fuel Sync Signal Circuit Open
  • Fuel Sync Signal Circuit Short To Ground
  • ECM

Testing

1. Measure AC noise to ECM by connecting DVOM between ground and terminals No. 48 and 50 (Red/White wires) at ECM harness connector. If AC voltage is 25 mV rms or less, go to next step. If AC voltage is greater than 25 mV rms, replace fuel transfer pump. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article.

 

2. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DRBIII® scan tool, check for DTCs. If no additional DTCs exist, go to next step. If any additional DTCs exist, repair other DTCs first. See DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE DEFINITIONS .

 

3. Using scan tool, check Good Trip Counter for DTC P1690. If Good Trip Counter for DTC P1690 is displayed and equal to zero, go to next step. If Good Trip Counter for DTC P1690 is displayed and not equal to zero, go to step 5 .

 

4. Turn ignition off. Disconnect FPCM harness connector. FPCM harness connector is located on end of fuel injection pump. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at FPCM harness connector. Repair as necessary. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at ECM harness connector. Repair as necessary. Using DVOM, measure resistance of Dark Green wire between terminal No. 8 on FPCM harness connector and terminal No. 18 on ECM harness connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to step 7 . If resistance is 5 ohms or greater, repair open in Dark Green wire
between FPCM and ECM.

 

5. Turn ignition off. At this time, conditions required for DTC to be stored are not present. Inspect wiring and connectors between FPCM and ECM. FPCM is located on top of fuel injection pump. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. If no problems exist, go to next step. If any problems exist, repair wiring or connectors as necessary.

 

6. Check fuel injection pump timing. See CHECKING FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING under FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING in ON-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS - RAM PICKUP - DIESEL article. If fuel injection pump timing is okay, go to next step. If fuel injection pump timing requires adjustment,
adjust fuel injection pump timing as necessary.

 

7. Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect FPCM harness connector. FPCM harness connector is located on end of fuel injection pump. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Using DVOM, measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 8 (Dark Green wire) on FPCM harness connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or greater, replace and program ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Dark Green wire between FPCM and ECM.

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Yea I read that article. I went out and just started looking over wires, unplugging and starting, etc. Last plug I unhooked was to the factory lift pump and I started it and Wala!...smooth idle again. So, only thing i'm wondering now is why is that making it act that way when the factory is only suppose to be active upon starting and with the factory one unplugged, my fuel boss is only showing 6-7 psi at idle which it should be higherand the higher as revs are increased. Going to clean the terminals up on the hobbs switch and maybe ull the bypass apart to check for dirt.

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When I installed my fuel boss I had the same problem. Rough idle, almost stalling, 1690 code, flukey tac and dead pedal. I took the hobbs switch out of the loop and it was fine! The hobbs switch kept cycling the stock lift pump on and off with the fuel boss running. I've been running it with dumby plugs on the carter pump since with no issues! There's a lift pump code stored in the computer but no dash light. 

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When I installed my fuel boss I had the same problem. Rough idle, almost stalling, 1690 code, flukey tac and dead pedal. I took the hobbs switch out of the loop and it was fine! The hobbs switch kept cycling the stock lift pump on and off with the fuel boss running. I've been running it with dumby plugs on the carter pump since with no issues! There's a lift pump code stored in the computer but no dash light. 

Thanks for telling me that, good to know. Where did you get the dummy plug?

Edited by dobienut
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  • 9 months later...

So I've been throwing P0336 error codes since last September.. after I had the Crank sensor replaced...

Take it back to the shop that replaced it and had them do a diagnostics on the sensor... this is what they got...

P0230

P0336

The code of the day..... P1690

 

My lift pump circuit cut out last fall and I bypassed it to be key on powered...  My backup light voltage is only 7v (didn't know until I started checking that this is driven from the ECM) I disconnected it.

 

I've read all these posts.... what is this bypass/dummy plug??  Are these the droids I'm looking for?? What should I be doing next??

 

With the drop in voltage at backup light and loss of lift pump trigger voltage I'm thinking ECM dying... Don't really want to go there.... 

 

Thanks,

 

Tim

 

2000 3500, 5spd, 360k miles, new tranny, Juice w/Attitude but pump not tapped just using the guages

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So I've been throwing P0336 error codes since last September.. after I had the Crank sensor replaced...

Take it back to the shop that replaced it and had them do a diagnostics on the sensor... this is what they got...

P0230

P0336

The code of the day..... P1690

 

My lift pump circuit cut out last fall and I bypassed it to be key on powered...  My backup light voltage is only 7v (didn't know until I started checking that this is driven from the ECM) I disconnected it.

 

I've read all these posts.... what is this bypass/dummy plug??  Are these the droids I'm looking for?? What should I be doing next??

 

With the drop in voltage at backup light and loss of lift pump trigger voltage I'm thinking ECM dying... Don't really want to go there.... 

 

Thanks,

 

Tim

 

2000 3500, 5spd, 360k miles, new tranny, Juice w/Attitude but pump not tapped just using the guages

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/172-p0230-transfer-pump-circuit-out-of-range

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/175-p0336-crankshaft-position-sensor-signal

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor

 

Do a bit of diagnostic work first. You might just fine bad wire or other minor issues.

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When I installed my fuel boss I had the same problem. Rough idle, almost stalling, 1690 code, flukey tac and dead pedal. I took the hobbs switch out of the loop and it was fine! The hobbs switch kept cycling the stock lift pump on and off with the fuel boss running. I've been running it with dumby plugs on the carter pump since with no issues! There's a lift pump code stored in the computer but no dash light. 

When I installed my Fuel Boss I didn't have any of those problems except for the hobbs cycling the Airtex lift pump. I too have been running with the Airtex unplugged and a lift pump code with no dash light.

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SO which one do you think I should start with?  I forgot to mention a FASS lift pump... which is wired to Key Hot so the lift pump relay has NO load on it...   which should I troubleshoot first 0336 or 1690 ??

 

Thanks 

 

Tim

 

ps

Glad to see you got the forum up, DTR seems to have died

Edited by Mopar1973Man
Edited to separate poster comment fromm the quote
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I would basically check the wires from the sensor to the ECM. They should ohm out at 0-5 ohms. Then from probe to wire and other probe to ground should ohm out to "infinite" ohms (open) this just verifies the wires are not shorted to ground.

 

I've seen only one case where new sensor and VP44 didn't fix it. But the actual ECM and crank sensor plug where bad. So every time the engine would vibrate just right the connector would wiggle and new pulse would be sensed and now throw the code for P1690 and P0336 because of loose pin connectors (not the plug itself).

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Ok...

Tried to look today... My ECM has 3 30 pin connectors....   had the FPCM connector off, found the dark green wire... could not get it to test to anything on any of the ECM plugs...all the wires looked.... ok... 

 

your document referred to an ecm in front of the lift pump.... I found something there but couldn't see any connectors to it...

 

Which is my ECM??

 

While I was looking around, I did  notice the two wires referenced when I installed my Edge Juice.... I did last year try to tap the wire but failed... could I have damaged one of those wires... if so can I replace it?  They looked ok... but who really knows if I punctured the sheath and there is corrosion on the wire now...

 

Thanks,

 

Tim

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ECM (Engine Control Module) is on the driver side of the engine block just behind the fuel filter. This controls solely the engine.

 

PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is on the passenger side firewall with the 3 plugs. This controls the transmission, cruise control and voltage regulator.

 

This is why I never suggest tapping the wire in that manner. I would rather use a stealth plate instead which give a good wire tap but water tight.

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Thank you for the clarification... whats the best way to access the ECM then? from top or bottom?  I'm going to clean up that area of the engine and dig a bit deeper into everything on Monday....

 

Yeah... I put off tapping the pump and one day the mood just hit me.... I instantly regretted it...  I don't really think that is my issue but if everything else checks out I may have to dig a bit deeper into that one wire....  and if I do get the urge to tap the pump again.. it WILL be with a stealth plate...  not that I really need the extra power, but the MPG boost might be worth it.

 

Tim

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