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Brutus is down :(

CUMMINSDIESELPWR
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CUMMINSDIESELPWR

CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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i got spare parts i dont need/cant use

 

front main replacement seal kit

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/classifieds/item/13-spare-parts/

 

12v 2nd gen oil cooler gasket

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/classifieds/item/14-oil-cooler-gasket/

 

mike, if this shouldnt be here let me know and do what you need to do. figured to stick the info here as well.

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CUMMINSDIESELPWR

CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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While its fresh in your mind...could you give us a rundown on where potential oil leaks could come from? I'd like to kill all my oil leaks. But not sure where they all can exist.

mainly the rear seal if worn, front main as it grooves the seal journal of the crank, i did a cummins genuine speedy sleeve on mine and the seal is a bit bigger to accomodate the sleeve. other areas are the oil pan rim, the interface of the oil pan to the rear main seal housing and oil pan to the front gear case housing. that is mostly where my engine was "weeping" from.

 

edit add:

 

when factory builds the engines they just slap a gasket on and call it good. there are a couple places they use rtv 4 to be exact, 2 spots on the rear main seal plate to block interface and 2 spots on the front  gear cover to block mating surfaces, the last is the gearcase cover (mine had rtv and no gasket)

 

I used shellac on both sides of ALL gaskets and i am confident oil will have a hard time getting through the seams now.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex--high-tack--gasket-sealant-detail

Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR
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MnTom

MnTom

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i take this as a good thing but never heard the phrase before so i dont get it lol

You leading a sheltered life? LOL... Yep, it's a good thng. He means you are moving right along with your project.

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CUMMINSDIESELPWR

CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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You leading a sheltered life? LOL... Yep, it's a good thng. He means you are moving right along with your project.

i dwell in a man cave :D hahaha

 

so if i dont take into account the machine shop, it took 4 days to pull the engine/strip it down and 4 days to rebuild (bearings didnt arrive till late monday afternoon)  So about 2 weeks on my part and a week and half at the machine shop. but during the wait time i cleaned everything i could.

 

so i will have a new engine and new turbo (all rebuilt of course) this truck is gonna have some nuts now!

 

and yes im going to make a set of truck nuts out of my old pistons. im gonna take the ruined one and make a gearshift out of it more than likely.

Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR
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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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I am partial to the Steiger green on the valve cover.

 

I grew up behind the wheel of a 1976 Steiger Panther II with a 310 hp 855 straight piped Cummins in it. Identical to the one posted below. Man the hours I spent in the seat of that rig as a kid. No wonder I am half deaf.

They where and still are made in Fargo ND. CaseIH bought out the Steiger family but they kept the rights to the name for 20 years and now CaseIH has the rights to the name and they did use it on the new CaseIH 4WD tractors but they are still built in Fargo ND same as the Quad tracks.

 

e89e8390237f5e874905dd0269f0d222.jpg

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CUMMINSDIESELPWR

CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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so good news and some little bad news.  got the engine in, hooked up enough to run (no cooling system or intercooler)  good oil pressure, didnt check for blowby yet as i still heard a bit of injector knock on #6 i believe. So i am going to swap #6 with #1 and see if it moves and if it does i need to get another rv275. If it doesnt move, i will just break it in.

 

Does anyone have a single rv275 they have lying around they want to sell? It is the only thing that is still "original" to that cylinder and i think it may have been damaged when it broke down.

Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR
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rancherman

rancherman

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Dude,   get em out and  at least tested....  then you can decide   which way to    roll.          a  test   shouldn't cost  too much,   last  set I took in  was   'free',  only because  I  paid  them  for  going through the pump,  and  parts  (springs and  shims )  for the nozzles...

 

"test only"   should  be  less than  100 bucks?     I believe you found your   cause of the original  problem.

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