Brutus is down :(

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

UPDATE

 

the head is off and was a clean pull. The head is perfectly fine, head gasket was in great shape (no penetrations). I found #6 to be only cracked at appx 10 o'clock if you were looking at it from the front. The bore is scuffed but not gouged and a heavy hone should clean it up. i will still measure the bore before i purchase pistons and that will determine if the block needs to come out. I am hoping i can just hone it and it will be fine, i felt all the way around and there are no light or heavy gouges, just surface burnishing. It looks like when i realized i was pushing it too hard i backed off just in time before i had total meltdown and a effed up bore.

 

I will take pics of the piston and bore tomorrow once i pull it out. If i can replace with a stocker i am going to order the ceramic coated stock size pistons with rings and wrist pins and have a whole new set ready to fire up. Plus gaskets water pump while it out and a couple sensors that are not wanting to come out (stripped cam sensor bolt...)

 

So with that, where are good places to purchase new piston kits and which head gasket should i go with?

 

again thank you all for your assistance in my screw up.

[rancherman]

is there room enough to  hone  #6??    Dang cowl  is  going to  be  right in your  way.

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

there will be with an angled gearbox adapter

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

i have decided to do a full engine overhaul with .020 over bore job and new pistons i am unsure if something also may have clogged the cooling jet but the block wash and check will ensure they are clear

[LiveOak]

i have decided to do a full engine overhaul with .020 over bore job and new pistons i am unsure if something also may have clogged the cooling jet but the block wash and check will ensure they are clear

 

I strongly concur.  A much better course of action that will ensure other issues are addressed that could bite you in the *** later.

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

yup, the only things im not replacing are the crank, con rods, cam and valve assemblies as they are fine. ill do plastigauge check before ordering bearings

Edited September 15, 2014 by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

is it possible to pull the block without dropping the trans out? basically unbolt most of the bolts, hoist engine up while supporting the tranny with a jack then just pull the engine forward is what im thinking

[mopartechnician]

Its possible, but its a pain to line back up with manual trans. Its just easier to pull the trans than to fight dropping in the engine and getting the input splines lined up.

[rancherman]

I'd do  a combination!

 

Pull the engine by itself,   You'll have it out quicker... which means  it'll  be  headed to the machine shop quicker too..

 

Then snake the trans out  for   reassembly to the engine,  to  fit  it  as  a   whole  for later.

 

You'll find out if your hoist is  heavy enough   when you snag just the motor!

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

aligning the splines when i replaced the clutch was a beeotch, i just dont have access to a tranny jack. ill get it though

[rancherman]

Any luck on  finding the  coated pistons?

[TFaoro]

Not sure how much money he wants to spend... https://www.industrialinjection.com/shop/category/engine-transmission/cummins/pistons/

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

i purchased a set of mahle clevite pistons for the HO cummins(of which i have) .020 over comes with rings and pins/clips $600

[rancherman]

oh hey,  just remembered  a  trick you may be able to use.

 

After you snag the engine out, and  it's off the  hoist,    You may be able to  reach in through the passenger door  with  the hoist   and  lower the  trans to the ground (then drag it out from under the truck).      Might  save  your back  on  getting it off the blocks..  

I did  a  big clark trans  this way,  put a  chain around the case, lifted it  slightly,  took the blocks out, and    lowered away.      Not sure if the door on a  Ram   will open far enough though..

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

hey rancher, yeah what i plan is just support the tranny with the floor jack in the same place it was when the engine pulls out, put a strap on it to ensure it doesnt move. when i slide the engine back in, aligning will be just as hard as if i was aligning the tranny to the engine.

 

me and a friend did the tranny lift with a hoist when we replaced his clutch on a suburban, it worked great.

 

i have decided to install the head while the engine is on the stand and do the valve adjustment right there too. This way i run no risk of effing the gasket up trying to do it in the truck.  then ill install all the other accessories after.  While the engine is out ill be washing the engine bay and making it perty and degreased. cleaning up the rats nest of wires on the driver side and redoing the fuel lines to make them nice as well.  ill be hand cleaning everything that came out of the truck too so when all said and done ill have a nice perty engine bay.

[TFaoro]

Okay maybe not worthless, but I think everyone would like to see some pics!

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

ill get pics tomorrow and when i pull the block ill take a lot of pics of the piston and bore

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

here ya go for now

[TFaoro]

mmm Pictures! Looks like you're making good progress! 

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

actually took 3 days of 4 hr work to get to the point of the block being stripped in frame, one day to pull it then ill strip it all the way down in another day then get it to machine shop. while its there ill clean the engine bay real nice.

 

it is going to be painted red and accessories and covers painted black