Hello everyone, long time no talk. Life has been busy and health has been bleh...

 

Long story short i was coming back from utah for a friends wedding and he was moving as well. I towed the uhaul trailer 6'x12' densly packed and very very heavy. Had no problems going through the mountains on HWY 80 EB till about 80 mi from lariamie WY. I was heading up a very long grade and towards the top something bad happened.

 

Here are the stats of when it happened

 

speed 70

gear 6

EGT under 1250 (no more than 60 seconds@1250, i saw it and turned the cruise off and throttled down)

boost around 20psi

rpm appx 1800~ cant remember exactly but was below 2000

oil psi normal ~65

fuel psi 18-20

temp rose from normal 180F to appx 200F when i powered down (within the white brackets)

 

What happened was a knock appeared and progressed to a loud knock quickly. I unloaded the engine and babied it to the crest which was less than half mile. Pulled over and the knock rose to a certain level and stayed there, excess blowby is observed and nothing else abnormal aside from the knock.

 

I havent torn into the engine but i am presuming either a cracked/melted piston or a conrod bearing went to hell or both.  I have my backup vehicle that ill be using for my trip and when i get back ill tear the engine apart.

 

Things i did learn from this, My RPM's were too low, egts were too high and in too high of a gear pushing too hard too long.

 

Fresh oil/filter air filter done before trip 3 weeks ago. zero issues aside from a cam sensor that gets fussy here and there. (was going to replace it when i got back this week as its bolt is stripped...)

 

Anyone have any thoughts or questions?

Oh how that brings back the memories. Night mares actually. LOL  

how many miles logged on the ol gal?

he (lol) has about i think 215,000 give or take

new piston set arrived and i got everything tagged and bagged. cleaned the radiator and parts now to pull the block tomorrow yaaaay

Edited September 20, 201410 yr by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

You going to have the machine shop static balance the piston and rod assemblies or make them so they are all the exact same weight, hear it makes a big difference in how smooth they run after its done?

good point, ill ask them about that

just a quick thought, im going to be using bolts of the same thread pattern to lift the block with, is this not a good idea given the stripped weight of the block?

You want as much thread engagement as you can get, with the washers & chain tight to the block. A common mistake is to use long bolts that bend & possibly distort the threads, or worst case crack the block.

 

Ed

man,  something went berserk  on that post!

I'll try again.

Youll probably need to re use  your old head bolts,  cause  the  thread  and diameter of most heads  are not   ace hardware variety size!

I'll  use a  bunch of spacers  to keep the chain  snug against the block,  so it won't  slide up and   meet the head on the bolt.  It'll  bend the bolt for sure.

 

Go  opposite corners.

Don't allow the  engine  to   free fall... even  a couple inches,  and have the chain  'catch it'..

 

I've  dangled  long blocks  with   manifold bolt holes   (3/8ths  each side)     You'll be fine  with your stripped block.

 

Going back in,  with a  complete engine...   use the   lift hooks!

ok so i got metric grade 8.8 bolts, thread pitch matches perfectly and ill ensure the chain stays close to the block. the bolts are only 2.5" long to keep from bending and i got washers as well.

I WILL be taking my time extracting and not to jerk anything around. this thing will maim or kill and that would be bad

when i put it back in i will do it with the lift loops, the head will be torqued on the stand and valve adjustment done on the stand as well

Edited September 20, 201410 yr by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

man, something went berserk on that post!

I'll try again.

i was wondering what happened hahaha

block party was a success. i found a couple bearing were gouged bad on the mains, and some wiping as well, the piston was galled bad but not cracked. the bearings clogged a couple oil nozzles and the crank has a single shallow score on it. im definately getting new bearing as it needs it. ill post pics later im exhausted

I'd recommend you  get the rods   re conditioned.    At least  measure the  roundness of  #6!        

anyone know how to get #1 piston cooling nozzle out?

Edited September 21, 201410 yr by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

so i got new rod bolts and head studs, can i reuse the crank main cap bolts?

yes

sweet tnx rancher

oh boy where to start...

 

cleaned all the greasy dirt off the block for the shop tomorrow, scraped gaskets off etc etc...

 

started to investigate what the hell happened and how a 1/2" chunk of metal got into the top of the #7 main bearing and a 1/4" chunk in and around the #5 main bearing. i cut the oil filter open and it looked like a transformer had taken a dump in it as there were metal piles on the bottom. i didnt see any cuts of where anything could have gotten through but who knows.  i took pics of all the rod end bearing and main bearings but ill just post the worst of them. i also took a pic of what the cooling jets look like in the block as they sit on top of the top main bearing and squirt up to the piston. the pink squiggly thing in the pics is my camera.

Edited September 23, 201410 yr by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

here is a vid of the oil filter, the divets in the paper are from the tin snips.  but look at all the material at the bottom of it...  DAMN!!!

 

dont mind the loud music my other phone was right next to the phone i used

IMG_5907.MOV

so bottom line, crank will be polished and reused, its in good shape (speedysleeve put on the front main as there is a groove in it). the cam is in good shape and will be reused. the block will be washed and cleaned, decked if needed and new cam bushing placed in it. the head will be cleaned and water tested for valve seal.  and while that is being done i get to clean the workshop and all the parts that go back on so it will be a nice happy clean motor when rebuilt. yaaay

Edited September 23, 201410 yr by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

Piston pics?? I'd like to see what it looks like if you don't mind! Could you tell if the cooling jets in #6 were clogged, causing the piston to overheat?