Brutus is down :(

[rancherman]

how many miles  logged on the ol gal?

[jlwelding]

Oh how that brings back the memories. Night mares actually. LOL  

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

how many miles logged on the ol gal?

he (lol) has about i think 215,000 give or take

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

new piston set arrived and i got everything tagged and bagged. cleaned the radiator and parts now to pull the block tomorrow yaaaay

Edited September 20, 2014 by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

[Wild and Free]

You going to have the machine shop static balance the piston and rod assemblies or make them so they are all the exact same weight, hear it makes a big difference in how smooth they run after its done?

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

good point, ill ask them about that

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

just a quick thought, im going to be using bolts of the same thread pattern to lift the block with, is this not a good idea given the stripped weight of the block?

[Yankneck696]

You want as much thread engagement as you can get, with the washers & chain tight to the block. A common mistake is to use long bolts that bend & possibly distort the threads, or worst case crack the block.

 

Ed

[rancherman]

man,  something went berserk  on that post!

I'll try again.

Youll probably need to re use  your old head bolts,  cause  the  thread  and diameter of most heads  are not   ace hardware variety size!

I'll  use a  bunch of spacers  to keep the chain  snug against the block,  so it won't  slide up and   meet the head on the bolt.  It'll  bend the bolt for sure.

 

Go  opposite corners.

Don't allow the  engine  to   free fall... even  a couple inches,  and have the chain  'catch it'..

 

I've  dangled  long blocks  with   manifold bolt holes   (3/8ths  each side)     You'll be fine  with your stripped block.

 

Going back in,  with a  complete engine...   use the   lift hooks!

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

ok so i got metric grade 8.8 bolts, thread pitch matches perfectly and ill ensure the chain stays close to the block. the bolts are only 2.5" long to keep from bending and i got washers as well.

I WILL be taking my time extracting and not to jerk anything around. this thing will maim or kill and that would be bad

when i put it back in i will do it with the lift loops, the head will be torqued on the stand and valve adjustment done on the stand as well

Edited September 20, 2014 by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

man, something went berserk on that post!

I'll try again.

i was wondering what happened hahaha

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

block party was a success. i found a couple bearing were gouged bad on the mains, and some wiping as well, the piston was galled bad but not cracked. the bearings clogged a couple oil nozzles and the crank has a single shallow score on it. im definately getting new bearing as it needs it. ill post pics later im exhausted

[rancherman]

I'd recommend you  get the rods   re conditioned.    At least  measure the  roundness of  #6!        

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

anyone know how to get #1 piston cooling nozzle out?

Edited September 21, 2014 by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

so i got new rod bolts and head studs, can i reuse the crank main cap bolts?

[rancherman]

yes

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

sweet tnx rancher

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

oh boy where to start...

 

cleaned all the greasy dirt off the block for the shop tomorrow, scraped gaskets off etc etc...

 

started to investigate what the hell happened and how a 1/2" chunk of metal got into the top of the #7 main bearing and a 1/4" chunk in and around the #5 main bearing. i cut the oil filter open and it looked like a transformer had taken a dump in it as there were metal piles on the bottom. i didnt see any cuts of where anything could have gotten through but who knows.  i took pics of all the rod end bearing and main bearings but ill just post the worst of them. i also took a pic of what the cooling jets look like in the block as they sit on top of the top main bearing and squirt up to the piston. the pink squiggly thing in the pics is my camera.

Edited September 23, 2014 by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

here is a vid of the oil filter, the divets in the paper are from the tin snips.  but look at all the material at the bottom of it...  DAMN!!!

 

dont mind the loud music my other phone was right next to the phone i used

IMG_5907.MOV

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

so bottom line, crank will be polished and reused, its in good shape (speedysleeve put on the front main as there is a groove in it). the cam is in good shape and will be reused. the block will be washed and cleaned, decked if needed and new cam bushing placed in it. the head will be cleaned and water tested for valve seal.  and while that is being done i get to clean the workshop and all the parts that go back on so it will be a nice happy clean motor when rebuilt. yaaay

Edited September 23, 2014 by CUMMINSDIESELPWR