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Battery Drain

JOHNFAK
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rancherman

rancherman

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Posted (edited)

Didn't   jon  say he did this,  and still had  a draw?  If so,  I'd  think  there could be   something  bizzaro  in the  pdc,   UNLESS  there is  another unfused  circuit, (not  fused  @ pdc)  but  downstream somewhere.

1000%  sure of  any aftermarket  mods  not  drawing somewhere?  

.4 or .5 amp  is  what?   a small bulb?

I  kinda  agree  with   wildfree... and  the  'fighting batteries'  scenario..

Edited by rancherman
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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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Just to answer that.

I had the batteries tested - 1 was bad and one was good. I already knew this thats why I isolated the passenger among other things (bad). So now I have new alternator, new passenger battery and a good drivers.

I will run through the pulling fuse exercise again ....... and will capture a video of part of it ........ but yeah its pretty much what I have already done.

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ISX

ISX

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I looked and you didn't really mention what was disconnected when you did the other fuse pulling.  I'm saying disconnect the positive battery terminal and everything on those 2 lugs, then bridge between battery positive and one of the lugs and then start pulling fuses. If you did exactly that then ok, if you had stuff hooked up such as things on the terminals then I would be a little suspicious and do it again the way I said, that way we remove all doubt. 

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rancherman

rancherman

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not sure if  anyone  has  checked theirs...  but  what is  considered  'normal'..  with  stuff like the  radio (clock),  security,  and  anything else always  'hot'?

edit;   just remembered (from my  flatbed install last week),   the  12v supply to  trailer.     That isn't keyed,  I remember  seeing a fuse for it  in the  pdc...  but   that's a lot of  wire (CHECK YOUR TRAILER PLUG TOO)   A little mud in the socket...  ya never know!

Aftermarket  brake controller?

Edited by rancherman
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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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IOD I *think* is 50MA from factory.

Unsure with non factory radio and some other stuff .........

No aftermarket brake controller.

 

Im sure when we track it down l'll feel like more of an idiot ...... but its not jumping out at me

Edited by JOHNFAK
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rancherman

rancherman

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Hey,  FMI,    are the  circuits  (within the cab  fuse panel)  hot  'after' the  pdc?  ie;   is  the cab  fuse  panel  separate from the   pdc     

Am I correct  on  the  fuses in the cab  are  for   sensing/gauge/and  exciter type circuits,  whereas  the   underhood  panel is  for the  'work'  circuits?

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rancherman

rancherman

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I am missing  (or  am  too  schematic dumb)  to see the  path  of  juice to the  in-dash  fuses.   I see  where is comes  from  via  keyed  circuit..  but  at the top of the  page is  cut off  (bottom  diagram).    How  does  this  tie in to the   top  diagram?

 

edit...   maybe this is it?    'top diagram'....     circuit  at extreme top of page has    'A'  labeled inside a triangle    'to fuses  in  diagram  2 of  3'   ???

Edited by rancherman
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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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OK found it ---- plus also the reason why I missed it the 1st run.

 

ELECTRIC POWERED SEAT FUSE (BIG SILVER FUSE).

 

Reason I missed it was if you are monitoring it and pull the fuse ...... it still shows 0.5A on the circuit at the 140A lug after pulling fuse.......... you have to short the circuit (scratch/spark until the energy is gone) ad then it drops to 4.5mA (~0A).

 

 

So before I button this ll back up .......... do I need to do any more diagnostics or any ideas on how to determine why the powered seats are drawing at key off.

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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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How quickly will 0.5A draw drain a good battery system. As I suspect that the main draw for the dead batteries was the bad battery - not this ....... but still wanted to track down.

 

Also - how do you diagnose a bad switch for power seats.  :cookoo:

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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How quickly will 0.5A draw drain a good battery system. As I suspect that the main draw for the dead batteries was the bad battery - not this ....... but still wanted to track down.

 

Also - how do you diagnose a bad switch for power seats.  :cookoo:

 

Check for draw. Since you passing power into the seat motors some how draining on the batteries then the switch must be making a weak connection.

 

You could unhook each seat motor one at a time to see which switch could be causing it. When you find the motor that is bleeding the current then when it unhooked the draw will vanish.

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