Fuel Pressure spread

[Yankneck696]

Close it all the way, then just crack it enough to see the gauge read full pressure in about 2 seconds. Then, tighten the shaft nut a touch to keep it from changing.

 

Hope it isn't the FRRP.

 

Ed

[notlimah]

Thanks Ed! I have my fingers crossed it's not the pump as well!

 

I'll post back here when I get my new plumbing all set up.

[notlimah]

Well here's my new setup!

 

 

 

Pretty straight forward install, pretty much followed the install from the article that's already here.

 

Some things I learned...

- When using these type of hose connectors, dont over tighten! Luckily I had one extra otherwise I would have had to make another trip to NAPA

- I'd assume if you were installing this your gauge would be out of the cluster like mine was, so once all your plumbing is good, place your gauge

  facing the front of the truck, that way when you start it and go to crack open the needle valve you can look under the hood up on the dash and be able to

  do it yourself and don't need a second person. Just dont forget to route the hose THROUGH the gauge cluster hole!

- At first I had a minor leak coming from the bolt that when tight keeps your needle valve from moving, but once tightened down, it didn't leak.

- When I first opened the needle valve, it BARELY turned and I got pressure. Then I remembered Mike had a video showing this so I went back to

  watch that and it made me realize that mine could be opened a little more so I'd have a slightly more responsive gauge. Either way that's an

  easy adjustment, just something to think about!

- Buy your needle valve from Vulcan!! NAPA now charges 30 bucks for that little guy!! 

 

All in all, it was pretty easy to ditch the isolator and I don't feel as weirded out having fuel into the cab as I originally thought I would. I haven't been out for a drive yet so I'll update you guys with that info later!

 

***EDIT***

 

Just wanted to add the actual part numbers I used from NAPA as it took me quite a while to find them in store.

 

Male tube connector part # 68x2 located HERE

Female tube connector part # 66x2 located HERE

Air brake tubing part # D1020401 located HERE

Needle valve link is a few lines up!

Edited March 14, 2015 by notlimah

[Mopar1973Man]

Wow! $30 bucks for a needle valve?

 

I'll keep that under my hat for future use. Thanx for sourcing out a cheaper solution!

[notlimah]

Wow! $30 bucks for a needle valve?

 

I'll keep that under my hat for future use. Thanx for sourcing out a cheaper solution!

 

Yea, sad part is I knew how much Vulcan charged prior, I just didn't think NAPA would be that outrageous! I found out as I was in the check out line, but at that point I just figured I'd have to wait until tues/wed next week before I'd even get the needle valve from Vulcan so I just bit the bullet.

[notlimah]

So just to post some numbers from my test drive...

 

On initial start up it was 63 degrees out and my idle psi was right around 17.5psi, almost 18psi at times. Once it warmed up at bit I was seeing 18.5psi at idle but all the way down to 11.5psi at WOT. Thermostat was reading 175-185 degrees around this time.

 

Pulled over on a side road to re-adjusted my psi.

 

After that I was seeing 20-20.5psi at idle and 14psi at WOT. Thermostat readings were the same ranging from 175-185 degrees. Typically seeing 15-17psi for normal driving. So, even though I'd ideally like to see a 2-3psi spread, given the fact that I'm still on the FRRP I think my limits, as long as they stay where they are now, are going to have to be acceptable until the raptor can be a backup.

[RubberDuck01]

I had a raptor and had big pressure drops from day 1 and it slowly worsened over time.  I thought it was the stock pick-up in the tank so I did the 1/2" draw straw and 1/2" lines from tank to vp and the raptor still wouldn't keep up.  I adjusted it several times before finally giving up on it(I didn't even keep it for a backup).  I ended up buying the FASS titanium 95gph pump and it sits a 16 psi idle or WOT.  The raptor is certainly enticing because of the money you save up front but they are just junk altogether IMO.  I am totally please with the FASS so far.  Also I put an inline screw on Donaldson filter in front of the FASS and it's still holding 16psi no matter what.  It's a better pump 10 to 1 over the Raptor.

[notlimah]

Although I have no experience with the FASS, I'd have to agree with you on this one Jeremy!

 

Every review or post regarding the FASS Titanium system has been great, unfortunately at the time I needed a new lift pump, that was my only option, even though I knew full well the FASS was the better choice, it just wasn't an option for me unfortunately.

 

Thankfully, now that the isolator is out of the way, my fuel pressure is a lot more consistent, albeit, a much larger spread then I'd like, it does 'know it's role' sort a speak as it only drops down to 14psi when WOT headed up an incline, and usually sits right at 20psi for idle and floats between 15.5 and 18.5 for normal driving. I really wish I had rock solid pressure like you!

 

A FASS Titanium system is on my list for next upgrade! Hopefully it will be at a time that works for me and not because my Raptor sh*ts itself and am forced to shell out the cash!

[Ilikeoldfords]

When I got my needle valve a couple years back from Napa, it was only like $4.00. I checked on getting another the other day for my bro' s truck, same part number, same Napa, they want like $26.00 now!!!!!! I have no idea why it's so expensive all of a sudden.

[Mopar1973Man]

Not to hijack..    But NAPA prices fund there race car in NASCAR from what I know. Check out a VP44...

 

NAPA

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Diesel-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Remfd/_/R-NECXTD2H301_0487392506

 

Vulcan Performance

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VP44-SO-1998-5-02-Dodge-5-9L-24V-235-Hp-VP44-Bos-p/iis0470506027.htm

 

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