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Frantz Filter being removed.

Mopar1973Man
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Well today while doing my oil change I finally gave up on my Frantz Filter. I've had enough. Back when I got it was rather easy to just change filters (roll of toilet paper) and go on. Well now toilet paper is so different from brand to brand and now the length is wrong, core size is different, etc. Just a big pain in my :moon: to deal with now. So I'm pulling it off and removing it permanently. I'll be looking towards a better solution in time with a remote mount base and a spin on bypass filter some wrote up in the past. The other thing is I'm tired of the leaking lid all the time no matter what I do I've always got oil oozing out of the can. I'm tired of the oily mess and fighting the toilet paper rolls.

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dorkweed

dorkweed

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Couldn't you machine a spacer to put in there to take up the space of the narrower TP rolls???  As for the cores/tubes being wider, I've taken 1 or 2 tubes from personally used rolls and split them lengthwise and inserted them into the tube of the fresh roll.  You'll probably need to cut about 1/4" lengthwise from each spacer tube for a tight fit.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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I've got a set of shims for the roll diameter differences but I have to now figure out a way to deal with narrower rolls. I can't get the seal to cut into the rolls anymore because they are too narrow now. So the last filter didn't do any good because the seal ring didn't cut into the roll like designed. Basically the can is too deep now. 

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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OMG! My eyes... :thud:

 

No it more like all the toilet paper manufactures are changing things like core roll diameter and roll width. At first it was too bad and just change a spacer that Deborah provided me. But now the rolls are too narrow and go into the can too far. Just not sealing correctly any longer. Time to give up. Now that she sold the company and they seem to have custom fit rolls. I'm going to find a simple spin on filter to replace this mess with. Frantz Filter is now up to $469.95 for a price. I'm sure I can find a bypass filter and spin on base to use.

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diesel4life

diesel4life

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I bought a cheap filter head through Napa and made my own mounting bracket. I drilled and tapped the center for a 1/2" NPT plug, and drilled a very small hole through the plug to control the flow of oil. For hose I used 1/2" Parker fuel line and used JIC fittings. I searched extensively and could not find another bypass filter so I had to go with Amsoil on the filter.

If your interested in part numbers or any more info, I can look it up and post it.

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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I sent you a pm Mike. Let me know. I ran / still run an amsoil bypass system on my 02 and on my 05, I built my own mounts for each, on the 02 I made a mount that replaced the battery hold down on the passenger side and that worked good but I eventually made a different one that mounted on top of the left front corner of the head in a void there and it worked for the 05 in the same spot as well. I use the short EABp 90 filters and they have done great for me. I change oil every 10K miles on the 05 and do both filters at the same time but I could go further but since I hardly get that many miles on it in a year anymore I just stick to that even if it goes over a year. I also use the billet oil caps for the return and they are awesome as well.

 

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/by-pass/filters-and-mounts/single-remote-bypass-kit/?code=BMK21-EA

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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i think i heard somewhere that the TP in the portajohns was the perfect fit for the franz... might be worth looking into. i may very well be wrong though.

 

 

Ha Ha I can see Mike going to the fair grounds and burglarizing all the porta potties now. :evilgrin:  :lmao:  :lol:  :lmao2:  :moon:

 

Gives new meaning to "TP" creeping................. :bolt:

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diesel4life

diesel4life

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The problem is neither of those filters are anywhere as capable as the EABP filters from Amsoil. The Napa filter you posted is rated at 10 micron nominal which isnt much better than a good full flow filter. I found the specs on that Baldwin when I was looking and it is better than the Napa but again not as efficient as the EABP filters.

Believe me, I searched quite extensively for an alternative before resorting to the EABP filter. In the end I wanted the best filter available, and it is the EABP. It would be nice to know who actually makes that filter.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Well that a problem I don't have a local AMSOil dealer here locally. I'm not going to mail order my oil changes every time that just insane. Like trying to get Fleetguard filters is a 120 mile round trip to Grangeville to the Cummins dealer or 300 miles to Rocky Mountain Cummins. Just to freight part up is getting expensive. Like now I'm got agreements with the local part store which I have account with and mail carrier to deliver parts to me for nothing being I take care of her car. I should not have to mail order a oil change that's just plain silly.  Now with speciality parts like injectors, injection pumps yes I can see mail ordering through other vendors like Vulcan Performance or DAP. So when I pay $11.59 for a oil filter and it takes another $20 bucks to be delivered that just not cost effective any longer.

 

Still in all I could just remain stock and be fine. There is plenty of truck roaming around here without a bypass filter that have better than 1/2 million on them.

 

The Napa filter you posted is rated at 10 micron nominal

 

I was flipping over to "Bob the Oil Guy" and reading post about some of the by pass filters and most still favored the Frantz filters. But the spin on style filter like most where making a size comparison like a hair is 80 microns, and blood s 8 micron.  So like most said your covering for most of the damaging particles that the full flow is not dealing with. But now looking back now at the Frantz filter now you have such a wide size difference in toilet paper and sealing issues with the core stem and such. How are you going to be sure its working anymore? Again now you chip away cost and add in UOA and now doubled the price of your oil change again. So 10 micron spin on filter.

 

Just peeking at AMSOIl filter cartridge at $50 to $60 bucks is plain out right insane. I don't care how good the name is and how good it filters no way... That's just way too expensive. Then add freight on that its going to be even more expensive. Hell my last oil change cost me $50 bucks for 3 gallon of Valvoline and a NAPA filter. So adding AMSOIL bypass would be better than $100 to $110... Sorry that too crazy. My pockets aren't that deep...

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diesel4life

diesel4life

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Yes they are very expensive filters. The plus side is you can virtually run them until they plug up before changing them out, as they are not a full flow filter. Maybe some othr members can comment on how long their EABP filters have lasted but I'm guessing if you change your oil at the recommended intervals along with the full flow filter the bypass filter will probably last 40-50k miles. That's speculation, Im sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

The Donaldson ELF 7349 (there is a new part number for this, but I still have the old filters and do not remember the updated number off the top of my head) efficiency is 98% @15um, so while the NAPA bypass filter will help some its not much of an improvement over a good full flow filter. I imagine you will still have $100+ into making your own bypass system up, at least I did (not including a filter.) Most of my expense was in hose and fittings, I did not want to cheap out on that part and risk blowing a hose going down the road. The oil pressure prior to the filter is what ever the engine is pushing out which can be quite high on a cold engine.

Also, UOA really is not necessary at all if your servicing at the OEM recommendation. You can simply continue on as normal and change whichever spin on bypass filter you are using when the flow becomes compromised.

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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Mike I ran 35K miles on my 02 with never touching the oil drain plug so your thinking is extremely skewed, the only reason I drained the oil was to flush after and injector swap, the UOA analysis was still excellent at 35k miles with nothing but a full flow filter change every 5k and both filters changed every 10 k miles and just top off the oil lost from filter change. Your way is more expensive long term. I could have changed the full flow every 10K and the bypass every 20K and still been ok from what I was seeing. $17 bucks every 7500-10K for a UOA and 1-2 quarts of oil is doubling the price of an oil change HMMMM math don't add up there either.

 

Plus you are looking at Amsoils suggested retail pricing. Not even close to what I pay. :rolleyes:

 

On a 2nd gen you can get by cheaper as they run cleaner, I would never chance it on the cr or newer engines with the higher heat and emissions.

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