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Electrical
Everything pertaining to electrical and computer systems. This also includes charging and starting systems.
33 Cummins articles in this category
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1999 Dodge Cummins Wiring Maps ABS Brake Wiring (4 Wheel) Air Conditioning Airbag SRS system Anti Theft System Automatic Transmission System (Page 1) Automatic Transmission System (Page 2) Backup Lighting CCD Network Central Timer Module Charging System Instrument Cluster (Page 1) Instrument Cluster (Page 2) Instrument Cluster Lights Courtesy Lights Cruise Control Engine System (Page 1
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2000 Dodge Ram Engine Wiring
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2001 Dodge Ram Engine Wiring
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2002 Dodge Ram Engine Wiring
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Mike is correct...the large current load on these 3 phase hairpin stators in conditions where all the available current is delivered does tax the design of the factory alternators. The diode's are all created on a single silicon substrate to assure uniform junction characteristics. This method allows for the PIV (peak inverse voltage) to closely match across all six diodes in a "three phase" rectified bridge. The old school would be to use individual large stud mounted diodes however; they would
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Alternator and PCM protection What I'm going to describe is a rare event. This is possible with any alternator stock ND or Bosch or even the aftermarket alternators that are bigger amperage output. In a nutshell, at any point, the blue field lead happens to short to ground the entire short is routed back through the PCM. Since the PCM is protected by a shared fuse of 20 amps this means the circuit board fails during these events. There have been two cases of this which is @pepsi71ocean and
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Huge thanks to AKshooter for writing this up. Ok, recent thread on here drove me past the point of looking at wiring diagrams and giving direction. Somethings are just easier explained with pictures and tested against a known good working system. So in an effort to help others, I tore my own truck apart in the dark outside in Alaskan November temperatures with a few simple test tools, a head lamp and an IPhone camera so bare with me if the pictures aren't the greatest. I do pr
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This is a tech article regarding those who (like me) think the oem spot for the apps is not ideal. Exposed to outside elements, heat, vibration and potential corrosion, moving it inside was most practical. Non Dodge/ midrange applications of Cummins 5.9 24V ISB’s all have their TPS/APPS inside the cab, mounted on the pedal assembly. So nothing is changing on the apps operation, just moving it. This mod does not works on trucks that are auto/use vacuum for crui
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APPS Sensor Replacement Procedure Description The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly is located at the top-left-front of the engine (Fig. 4). A plastic cover is used to cover the assembly. The actual sensor is located behind its mounting bracket (Fig. 5). Operation The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is a linear potentiometer. It pro
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This article covers building a simple Arduino device that will buffer APPS input from the pedal to the ecm. The end result is a slow but steady increasing TPS input to the ECM regardless of how quickly the driver modulates throttle input. If the driver goes from idle to %100 throttle this device will slowly roll into the throttle, at a configured delay, to prevent smoke. This device can also prevent barking by using the same logic in reverse.
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CCD (Chrysler Collision Detection) Data Bus Description The Chrysler Collision Detection (also referred to as CCD or C2D ) data bus system is a multiplex system used for vehicle communications on many Chrysler Corporation vehicles. Within the context of the CCD system, the term “collision“ refers to the system’s ability to avoid collisions of the electronic data that enters the data bus from various electronic control modules at approximately the same time. Multiplexing is a system tha
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Replacing Diodes and Brushes in a Denso Alternator Replacing Replacing Diodes and Brushes in a Denso Alternator Remove 1the 0mm nut at the B+ post, the three 8mm nuts and the 8mm head screw. You can use a small screwdriver and gently pry and lift the cove off. The diodes and brushes are now exposed. Remove the dust cover and four screws that hold in the brush pack assembly, lift assembly out. Remove the four Philip head screw
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Denso Alternator Modification I'm doing this write-up in case anyone runs into the problem I did and they don't want to buy a new or find another style alternator. After I bought the diode replacement and tried to install it I realized that it was slightly different from mine. Note: The new lead is smaller in diameter and shorter than the old lead. Here is a link on how to take the alternator apart written by IBMobile. If yours is like mine and the lead comes off the sid
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Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Signs / Symtoms Just noticed today that the oil pressure is way high while driving and not really moving even upon reaching operating coolant temperature. Driving oil pressure at low throttle is 60-70 PSI at full temperature and idling is right around 60 PSI. Here's the oil pressure gauge, full operating temperature while idling... Even before starting, the oil pressure gauge shows 40 PSI, then after start up right to the 60-70 mark and doesn't move much
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Grid Heater Bypass Installing this bypass will allow you to manually control if and for how long you want to run the grid heaters when the ECM is commanding the grid heaters on. This will reduce the load on the alternator/charging system and in turn reduce the harmful AC voltage. This bypass will also keep the fault codes P0380 Intake Air Heater Relay #1 Control Circuit and P0382 Intake Air Heater Relay #2 Control Circuit from being set. Parts
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Grid Heater Bypass Simplified The method described below is a simplified way of turning the grid heaters on and off when starting the engine and reducing the electrical load on the alternator without setting a P0380/P0382 code. The bypass solenoid is a 300amp rated Ford type starter solenoid. When both grid heaters are on there is about 180amp draw and after start up the draw is reduced to 90 amps so the bypass relay has a 50% plus overload safety factor. Suggested
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After 18 years of interesting CTD enthusiasts and transmission specialty outlets all contributing their method, or fix, to the well known TC lock unlock syndrome, I can no longer remain silent. Extensive review of many posts regarding TC lock unlock, the rerouting methodes, the add on filters for APPS and last, but not least,...the "tin-foil hat" brigade. I do realize that each individual or company that contributed to the vast amount of information on the web had good intentions and
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Hey Guys, So my old group 27 batteries finally took a dump. I left the radio on in my truck for about 2 hours while I was loading up scrap, and it was enough that after starting the truck the batteries were just beyond this. Anyways, I did some quick looking and decided to upgrade to the famed Group31's. And the results are nothing less then amazing. So not only did the truck start up super fast, but even with the grids banging away the battery voltage went from 14.0 to 1
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A lot of people ask about high output alternator options. So here's a chart with a few manufacturers listed below. If you find more, please reply so they can be added. This post is of course geared towards Dodge trucks but these manufacturers generally make alternators for anything. Simply go to their website and search. **NOTE: Always look into upgrading your batteries and cables first! If you have a mostly stock truck, you'll benefit from an alternator upgrade, but not as much
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Maybe you've followed the VP44 diagnostics instructions over at blue chip... there's a point where one of the steps involves cutting the wire for pin 5. If you really need to do that experiment, don't cut your wire. Pull the terminal. I made a tool to extract terminals from a VP44 connector. It's just a bit of brass tubing. I put it in a drill and sanded it down until it was small enough to fit into the front of the connector. You need to move the little red tabs. T
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How To Reset / Calibrate Your APPS Sensor WARNING! Any time the batteries are disconnected, batteries ran dead, ECM disconnected, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) disconnected, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) replaced the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) calibration procedure MUST be done again to reset the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) idle and WOT limits. If the calibration is not done error codes a
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I just want to attempt to kill off some Internet myths again. Cleaning IAT sensor WILL NOT improve engine performance or fix any engine problems. This right here is an IAT sensor for 98.5 to 02 Dodge Cummins 24V engine. This sensor has about 50k miles of gunk on it. This has ZERO impact on the sensor ability to read air temperature in the manifold. Cleaning the sensor will do nothing for performance or MPG. The way to check the IAT sensor for problems is with a live data
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Dodge/Cummins ECU (1998.5 - 2002 ISB) ECU Hardware There are 2 computers on the Ram. One on the passenger side firewall behind the air cleaner assembly (the Powertrain Control Module, or PCM), and the ECU, which is located on the left side of the engine, mounted directly on the engine block. The ECU is connected with a single 50-pin connector. The ECU itself is a sealed unit, with a single air vent device. It is constructed of an aluminum 'frame', or center section, that
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Installing A Timbo's APPS Sensor What's needed? -Timbo Apps - 10MM socket and wrench - T20 torx - Paperclip - Mutlimeter Timbo gave me a Timbo APPS sensor to install on my truck and try out. So I'll tell this much its built much better than the factory ~$450 dollar Dodge stock APPS sensor! I will say it works with the exhaust brake and is high idle ready with no compatibility issues. Timbo APPS sensor has no effect on these options
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You'll need to get 4 12v or higher, 1 amp diodes and 1 12v, 125 ohm resistor, all of which can be had from The Source I believe. Solder them together like this: I pulled the bezel off and pulled the headlight switch right out because of my OCD, and if I can recall correctly (didn't tear my dash apart to check), I tapped the 'park lamp replay output' black w/ yellow tracer wire for the park light power source, as seen on the headlight switch connector here:
