All Activity

The PCM connector & pins are nice & clean. I have good continuity between pin 85 at the ASD & pin 3 on C3 of the PCM. And also good continuity between ASD pin 87 & PCM pin 12 on C3. Mine is a little different than the diagram you have posted. On mine, the ASD pin 86 gets battery constant power just the same as pin 30. Both get power through the PDC joint connector #2, which is just a terminal jumper in the PDC. I'd also suspect a PCM fault, but I had sent that out for testing & repairs a few months ago. It was returned with no problems found. Not saying they couldn't have made a mistake or something happened since then, but I'm hesitant to think the PCM is faulty.... Here's a diagram of what I have. Thanks!

I have. Done it several years ago actually. Grounds are all attached to the timing case and alternator connected to the passenger battery Battery cables have also been replaced and i have the heavy duty copper lugs bolted in to the napa “military style” terminals (napa part# 728222 for one of them, positive and negative are different numbers) They are really awesome and give a good solid connection since they have thru bolts.

Hmmm... I know in the documents section of downloads, there is a copy of the transmission service manual. My problem I've only been working on manuals most of my life, rare to see automatics, and even then, most are still working properly.

Cancer battle 2018 Christmas & 2023 Christmas. Shop destroyed by landslide, May 29 2025. I am no longer capable of mechanical work for the public. Slowly, I'm starting to do little things when my back and lower body allow me to do them. Then, the aftermath of getting a job done, like the injection pump, which turned into a mess of its own. 4 days of trying to work only when the weather is not threatening rain. Still very focused on getting the mess out of my yard. The spruce tree is nearly dead now from beetle kill. The yard is a mess and I don't even have a lawnmower since it was crushed by the north wall of the shop. My Fire Chief and his wife are going to setup up with there backhoe and start loading the trash out so I can clear the ground. Two trees to cut down. Then start loading dirt into the backyard level the ground out. Then there was a period where all we had to manage the website was our cellphones and my laptop. I lost both desktop computers on the same day. It was difficult back then, since neither one of us had much income. Between my medical expenses and driving back and forth. Now we have all the computers replaced, then built a home server for the cameras, networking, and communications. Now I've have good PCs that can do serious work with no problems. Which is why I brought back my other business name of Cloud 10 Computers. I'm going to support the Linux realm and networking for anyone who wants a rock-solid PC and near bulletproof software. Don't judge too hard, I've got wiring to do, yet I have cameras to hang and ports to wire into the house. Now, as for travel, we are already trying to fix up the RV for traveling to meet some of you. Like I know I need to plan a trip out to see that man listen to me whine about my cancer and all the BS I went through. I've been working on getting a few modifications done so we can dry camp with our CPAP machine and not worry about power. I've been designing an 800w solar roof setup for a dual battery system. Again, don't judge to harsh its a work in progress, and more cleaning up to come. I need room for the 200 AH LiFePO4 battery I'm going to stuff down here. The old Harbor Freight solar is being trashed and a new Bluetooth controller will be installed down here, tied to 2 AGM batteries on the tongue and then the LiFePO4 battery in this cabinet. @Tweety Bird and I tested this out last night, and it worked great so far. Now to do a full dry camping experience. My problem was that the original power wire from the batteries to the fuse panel was weak and dropping voltage quickly. Now upgrade to 6 AWG and a solid connection into the house, and the voltage is solid! I might be quiet at times, I'm just so busy. Even toss in a VP44 and tappet cover gasket on Beast. Dang cover was alreaady starting to leak and been doing good and the gasket feels pliable but is not sealing as well. Now the DAP Wire Tap Warranty pump. Mine died after 200k or so miles with a violent key-off motion. P1689! Beast still brought the RV home from Boise without another complaint. Beast is back up and running. RV is repaired. Even the server you guy play on is repaired. Even did about 4 hours of chatting with Google AI (Gemini) to find a few places to gain speed ofr the website and make it faster. Fixing code issues also found a few setting that were well MISSING. Whole config file for cahcing was missing. Then I'm heading towards 3 years of daily makeup artistry now. Now, for all you if you're wondering about this. I met my wife wearing my black and blue wig and then black and blue makeup. Some of you may be going What? Well, Titanium was created to help me with depression, stress, and anxiety, which was crazy after coming out of surgery, and your doctor tells you you are going to die. He wasn't sure if I had cancer in my body moving past my bladder wall. Yeah, this scared me. I didn't handle this well alone and have some tell you that you might not make it. Ok, so why waste time? I went to party mode and enjoyed the idea of dressing in Goth styles. This is why my wife fell in love with me, between taking care of my mother with kidney failure and then battling bladder cancer twice. Even while at home for the day, I typically get up, shower and do makeup before leaving the house. Hence, all my posts of Titanium in that section. The fact I deal with this bag on my belly for the rest of my life. I found ways of dressing with mostly black I can hide it completely. Why be normal after all this. I'm allowed to go NUTS! As I was after having my head stuffed in that little cabinet doing wire work. Wore my glasses so my nose art failed (Smeared).

Have you done the W-T ground wire mod yet?

Double-check the PCM socket for any damage or corrosion. Which should be pin 85 of the relay. The PCM controls the ground to Pin 85. Then pin 86 gets ignition power to energize the relay. If you do not have a ground signal, then the PCM would need to be sent in to be rebuilt. I would send it off to Auto Computer Specialists in Florida. Here shortly, I'll be sending Thor's ECM to get the exhaust brake circuit fixed.

Another update & today's puzzler. I had the truck running with a jumper wire at the ASD terminals (between the battery & load terminals) which I was very happy to hear it run & find the area the problem is from. While going through different things with it I had the relay back in at one point & it functioned properly (dash lights good & no error). So I wondered about a faulty connection and/ or wire. I lifted the Power Distribution Center (PDC) & removed the lower cover to see if any corrosion or faulty wires underneath. Also looked at the big square harness connector that connects to the PDC. Everything looks good. I put the PDC back in place along with the harness connector. Then I tested continuity between the 2 ASD relay terminals that connect to the PCM- 1 is the trigger for the relay & the other sends power to PCM. Both circuits were good. So I put it all back together & checked the relay itself. It functions OK & has continuity between the switched terminals. So with that everything SEEMED OK. I used a pick & tightened the ASD terminal openings in the PDC just in case there was a bad connection to the relay. I checked another relay also (also worked fine) & just swapped it with the ASD spot. Put everything back together, hopeful that it was working, & unfortunately the same problem- gauges aren't working & NO BUS error in odometer. So, I jumpered the ASD terminals again & this time the cluster works fine, but it won't fire. I then retested the ASD terminals. Both the battery slots have voltage. I don't get a ground on control wire from the PCM though like I should. Until I jumper the battery & load wires. Then I get a ground signal from the PCM. That doesn't make sense because I'd think the PCM has to first signal the relay to work before the relay can send power, but it's not triggering the ASD until it's jumpered. Any thoughts are welcome. Thanks

Beast got his new VP44 injection pump. Been a long while since I've done long work like this, wow! I can feel it all through my shoulders and arms from hanging upside down over the tappet cover and injection pump. Few flaws I did on that job. I got sidetracked by people coming and going, and then forgot to tighten the 1,2,4 injection lines at the pump, and couldn't figure out the diesel fuel smell. D'Uh! 🫣 Tighten all that up, and Beast came to life. To test Beast out, I packed up the next day and went to the local C&M Lumber. No wire taps yet, but I will soon be reinstalling my BD Stealth Plate. I ran up and got 20 feet of 6 AWG wire and a few bags of copper ring terminals. Yeah, work time in the RV. The main power lead into the house is bad and dropping voltage. Since I already have the 6 AWG from the battery to the inverter I opted for making that my main lead in the house, which is double is size from the mere 14 AWG main line coming from the factory wiring. Rebuilt the entire power cabinet and re-laid out everything. Now the power issues of the past RV trip are no longer an issue for our future trip to Boise for medical. Wife still has a shoulder issue that needs to be dealt with. All this was repairs from the failed trip to Boise, where we made it down to Boise, but the VP44 injection pump failed out with a P1689 code. While travelling back. Then, even the next time I wanted to move Beast to repair. VP44 threw the P1689 code again.

Just following up- Im gonna order a new rectifier. Looks like INR734P. Seems like the most logical route and what i can reasonably afford right now. I have to tow a large 5th wheel Saturday so heres to hoping this rectifier gets it fixed and i get the part in by friday so i can get the repair done

Update! Hello all, I finally made significant progress on the '02 Cummins with NO BUS message & crank/ no start. I've found that the Auto Shut Down relay is not being activated. I jumped the power to load terminal where the relay fits into the Power Distribution Center & things in the dash began to function correctly- all the gauges were working, the wait to start light worked, & no more NO BUS message is displayed in the odometer. The fuel pump is also working as normal. I had to bleed the injector lines & crank on it a bit, but it now runs again. I still have to find why the ASD relay isn't being powered & repair, but I at least know WHERE the problem is coming from. Thanks for your help guys!

So i got lucky and found a fluke here at work. My coworkers was just a klein for household use but one of the work trucks had a good fluke onboard i didn’t know was there. Anyhow. The results i got after a 20 minute commute followed by 30 minutes of idling. No extra loads the only thing running was the engine, radio was on but nothing playing. The mVAC fluctuated as low as 24 and as high as 38. As for which alternator i have, i cant see any markings but it’s got the two wire plug on the back and the alternator lug located on the back as well approx an inch and a half away from the two wire Just a follow up edit: After some searching I found that i have the Nippon Denso alternator not the bosch based on part images on oreilly website. Secondly, i followed the suggestion to unplug the alternator plug and disconnect the charge wire. So I did that as soon as i got home. The lock/unlock issue persisted while i was on my way home and after unplugging it the truck ran perfectly as it should. So at this point i can only reason that the alternator and/or diodes are the culprit. What I do want to reiterate is that ive had this problem before but it manifested in a completely different way. Previously it was almost non stop rapid succession of lock/unlock. This time was very sporadic and unpredictable and nothing like the first time. Now i must decide on a whole alternator, a diode pack, or is it a reasonable idea to install a second diode between the alternator and the battery. The alternator is the original alternator from 2000 and it now has 221k miles on it, i did replace the diode pack around 2018 which was about 60k or 70k miles ago.

I've got some of the older diodes with the post in the back of the alternator. Most alternator shops sell the diode packs for ND alternators. Bosch on the other hand, is soldered diodes so those are a bit different.

Im going to check for ac bleed through tomorrow. I lost my multimeter in my last move apparently. So im going to borrow my coworkers and hopefully his is capable of giving a good reading. Im starting to think you’re right about it being a diode issue. Ever since you responded im paying more attention to it and I’ve noticed that it doesn’t act up for the first 5 minutes of driving but once it’s completed it’s first warm up for the day it will do it all day long. If it was a valve body issue i imagine it would do it 100% of the time not just after warming up. I was so sure it couldn’t be the alternator ive just written off that possibility for a couple years now. That said, are you still selling the diode kits? I can’t remember if i bought one of the ones you used to sell years ago or not but that would have been around 2018 when I lived in Arizona.

Before in the old cabinet. Too hot too! Here is some eye candy of the personal server here at the house that will become the sandbox for testing software out and even building software to do other tasks for the network and website. The whole wooden cabinet is gone. Now the server is condensed down to a mere 32-inch-high box with all the equipment stored under lock and key. The network is being rebuilt. Now the new server cabinet. I'll get a better photo here soon. VLANs Workstations IoT Camera Trunk (All) IoT (Internet of Things), I'm going to place all 4 Roku's, and then there is the Verizon extender, also stuff in the VLAN. This way, there is no way for Roku hackers to get into my network becomes a dead end. Other devices will be added to this like the Acurite weather head will be added to this Iot group. Cameras are moved into a special VLAN too so they are totally seperated from the rest of the network. Workstations are given a bit more permission to roam the network that any WiFi devices but there will be a few devices that will be given above normal permissions.

Well I got another truck that I just had to have. Another unicorn!!! No rust 79k miles squeaky clean truck. Its a 2001 Dodge 1500 2wd with the V6. This truck is the new 1500 Cummins! The 2001 has update 2 piston calipers up front compared to the older ones only having one. Also the front spindles has unit bearings, easy to replace, stronger, better, etc. One other thing to mention is servicing the brakes are way easier. Having the unit bearings instead of the old style makes it where I can run my newer 3rd gen style rims that I picked up with out needing a 2 inch spacer. There's not many rims that the 99 and older ones can run, actually a pretty limiting factor for other 2nd gen enthusiast. Heres the new rig!!! *note: some photos wont upload, I'm getting a error code (-200)?? Immaculate underneath! They both got a pressure wash bath, super clean!

Just been curious and ...... Well I feel bad bringing it up, but its kinda slowed down here on the site. I remember it being a pretty bustling place a way back. I know its prolly because of the membership stuff, but Im not complaining. Nothing it free in this world lol, knowledge has tons of value and this site has multiple costs too - totally agree with a subscription. It seems (my hypothesis) to have just drove out the riff raff so to speak and slowed everything down.

Well, any second choices? Im gonna be really flying by the seat of my pants on this auto stuff. I am solely counting on yall for guidance on this build.... no pressure

Still got my blue top steering box and had to adjust it once so far to take up gear slack, but still working awesome. If you are not doing oversized tires, you can opt for the quick ratio box.

This I will consider solved at this time. I've not had any problems handling photos at all and all uploads work fine now.

As I've been working on the website I've been doing a lot of tuning work to make the software faster. I've got that done with the help of AI. Google's Gemini AI has been a invaluable tool in getting the server fixed up and working really good. I've dropped all the blocking time of the CSSscripts and the java scripts. Now it test out at a pure 0ms blocking time. Most pages score in the 90s percentitle.

Well he was a rebuilder for the site years ago. I was hoping but I guess not.

Just browsed their site, looks to me that they only offer the 48RE and 68RFE transmissions.

Ok I THINK the backer plate is PN 04761554, I don't see the pivot pin listed in any of the parts pages as an individual part. All I've found is this and it's not available.