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SO... for a 2000 2nd Gen, ATF is NOT supposed to be used? is that why my hydroboost is leaking now? I had a line come loose after the engine replacement and on a quick google search specific to a 2000 doge ram, came up with ATF+4 so that is what I've been running since fixing the line.

Weird part... Polling is turned on already for the Cummins swap area. Let me dig a bit on this. Should be available during the first post as a switch for polls.

CANBus was left for the "Cummins Insite" tool for the diagnostic connector. 2003 The CANBus was introduced to the 3rd Gens. We are just in the testing stage of this with the VP44 communications.

Could you post this in the article section with more detail on how you made the trays and hold downs. I'll bonus you $10 for the article. 🤑

@Mopar1973Man is there anyway/option to add a poll to this or should I just make a quick new thread for a poll(s)? I'm still curious to think what everyone thinks on keep the NV5600 or trying to find someone to buy a full manual swap so I can afford to buy a nice 47RE... I guess thats another question, do I have to stick with the 47RE in auto? Prolly for simplicity's sake for oem brackets and bolt-n-go scenario Id stay 47RE in my thought process. If anyone is to ask for the trucks purpose, this will literally only be a grocery getter, play toy, go fast wanna be show truck. If I swap id have to send in my computers for flashing to auto and the only issue would be to hopefully sell a full NV5600 swap with t-case ready to roll which is the biggest kicker and would halt finishing everything till it sold...

It's standard practice for me to isolate user personal data - pictures, videos, music, documents, downloads, and specialty software installs onto a separate partition or secondary SSD drive, to minimize or negate any loss of personal data. I have (2) AAAS computer degrees, and I was taught to protect personal data as priority #1.

Good to hear back from you. I am hoping that you are on the right path and that you have finally found a solution to your forever lasting symptoms. Of course, you know that when this is fixed, you will constantly be hearing random phantom ticking noises for at least six months - then you can finally relax. John

Thanks for sharing. Great write up

UPDATE: I found, in the depths of another forum, someone with the same exact issue as me. Here is a LINK to their video they posted 16 years ago! They went down the same exact rabbit hole I did and ultimately ended up pulling the oil pan to find a damaged tone ring. I inspected my tone ring through the CKP sensor hole but its a very small area and I wasn't able to really good a good look at it. I'm going to pull the oil pan tomorrow and give it a real inspection. I HOPE I find an issue with the tone ring so that I can finally put this to rest!

The150 AMP alternator fuse holder is mounted on the outside lip of the right battery tray. I had to drill a hole through the fuse holder to mount it.

Thanks. So is that just a wire connector that's not plugged into anything then? Allowing a tuner to connect directly to the ECM vs the OBDII port?

I mounted mine on the lower part of the factory air filter housing right next to the battery. My guess is that you probably don't have a factory air filter housing. John

Im using a reset able 150 amp breaker on my setup and working great. Protects the electrical from a dead short. Yes alternator diodes can and will short out at times it just best to have a way to keep it from melting the wiring and starting a fire.

Like us we want to travel east to catch up with some members like @Doubletrouble @jlwelding @towhungerford and a few others that were there for me during my cancer battle. We will see soon.

Sorry. Been on the road this last week with limited cell service. But try the crayon trick on the next bolts or nut problem.

Today we are checking out of our RV space and heading back home with our cache of goodies we picked while in town. This has been a wonderful experience and teaching both of us what we need to travel on the road to see some of you. For a bench test I think we can get started traveling state to stay soon. As for makeup artistry wife and I enjoyed all the great comments as we been in town. Been nice for both us to escape the mess at home and take a break away from problems, phones, projects, etc.

CANBus is right near the ECM typically used for tuner connection. Wire map above covers both the CANBus and CCD bus. CANBus is used for the VP44 injection pump and tuner data.

No worries. Thanks for replying! Do you know where the "Cummins Bus" component is located? It's listed in the wiring diagrams with 3 wires to it. It's the only item I haven't been able to get my hands on so far. It's located in the bottom & towards the right in the diagram below. Says front left of engine, but I don't see anything. I was quite prepared to have the PCM looked at again, but then earlier this week I swapped that with one from the good running '01 & it made no change- This '02 truck didn't work any better with the '01 PCM & the '02 truck ran fine on the '01 PCM. So I'm thinking the PCM has to be working OK. Maybe it's time I recheck continuity on the CCD pair & all the ground & + wires to ECM & PCM.... 🤷‍♂️

That’s what I’ve done for a temp fix. The light is off. I found a used buckle online and am awaiting for it in the mail.

oh... this is all so last weekend :p

I can say engine oil temperature will show timing. Ive managed to keep Beast with oil temperature below 180°F even with coolant temperature ranging 197 to 210°F. Simply put if your timing is off oil temperature will rise to coolant level or higher. Now if I look back at all this time on DAP 150HP 7x0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar. Im at 504k miles and still got 6 to 7% engine load at idle. Now understanding even more about tuning. This works for Beast because of the wear on the injectors. As your injectors wear they start popping early as the spring tension loosens up. There is no way to build a tune and not have to retune over from weather change, wear on the injectors, fuel cetane levels, etc. I've got the RV in tow and gross weight closer to 17,500 pounds. Oil temperature staying in check most ive seen was on Whitebird grade at 1,200°F EGTs and oil temperature stay right at 180°F. Can anyone catch me?

As for the selt belt light take the two wires under the driver seat and twist together and light is permanently disabled.

Try heating the bolt nut and trying to melt a crayon in there. Ive seen this trick and not had a chance to try it yet. Shop still missing yet. (Shop 404 error)

Wife and I took the RV and headed to Lewiston Idaho for shopping and a bit of down time. Ive had my first problem on my trip my passenger headlight finally blew the bulb. Come to find out Lewiston doesnt even have and D2H bulbs for HID headlights. Im going to order new ballast and bulbs for Beast from Amazon. https://a.co/d/0hjxRZNE Upgrading from 35w ballast to 55w ballast and changing from 5000k to 6000k bulbs. Finding a bulb with the right connector is tough.