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I've got an older-generation Starlink, and I had to buy the extra adapter to break out a single port for an RJ45 CAT5 cable. That single connection supplies my TP-Link Gateway with internet. Be aware that if you decide to hide your WiFi radios since they are outside the realm of control, you need WiFi to access the Starlink. I opted to hide only the radio names. There is a greater security risk in doing this, but I really doubt a hacker is going to sit in my yard banging on the Starlink WiFi. The setup of my Acurite weather tower required the Starlink WiFi to be split between the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands. Acurite only needs the single 2.4 GHz band of WiFi, since it can use the 5 GHz band. Now that I did this, it wiped out my passwords and then left the old Starlink (multi-band 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz) listing both Starlink 5 GHz and Starlink 2.4 GHz. The old multi-band was 192.168.1.x, and the new split radio was 192.168.2.x. I deleted the old multi-band 192.168.1.x, and POOF, internet disappeared in the house completely. I worked my way from Mark's Roku back to the WiFi head and rebooted that. Then I noticed no signal and rebooted the TP-Link Gateway. I noticed the IP address was pointing to the wrong place after removing the radio from Starlink, and the gateway got lost. No internet. It has been a huge learning curve to build a full home network and have an on-site 16-terabyte cloud server. This cloud server is running Ubuntu 24.04 LTS Server software, and I have both beautiful workstations and 4 terabytes of storage. So, I'm going to tell my stories about Linux and Networking. This is just one of many where I've jump to the rescue and return internet and cell service to the home.

This is the start-up of supporting Linux Computer users and even Linux Web servers. If you have any questions on Linux computers or anything, I can help you out.

Welcome To Titanium Forum. You may ask about anything regarding my character Titanium.

Awesome! Thank you much. It will be a bit till I get there, so I might have questions down the road. Excellent write up!

Mopar1973Man.Com Weather Tower (KIDNEWME29) Mopar1973Man.Com now has a public weather tower up in my yard. Being where I live the closest weather tower is at different elevations compared to me. Here in the Pinehurst area, you are about 2,800 feet above sea level. Then McCall is just over 5,000 feet in elevation at the airport and about 35 miles south of me. The next tower is down in Slate Creek and its over 1,000 feet below and 45 miles north. Then looking at NOAA weather the radar can't quite cover my area. My weather data can be found on the internet with Weather Underground. The other reason I'm wanting weather data I'm sick and tried of all this "global warming" and "climate change" nonsense Being to control the narrative you have to hide all weather data from the public I'm going to post my weather data publicly! https://www.wunderground.com/dashboard/pws/KIDNEWME29 <iframe src="https://www.wunderground.com/dashboard/pws/KIDNEWME29" width="600" height="400" title="Description of content"></iframe>

Hello everyone!! Our progress with all the adversity that smacked us 😲 during 2025 has been gradually getting better. I have been out of the scene due to all the tasks demanding my attention. But...back to concentrating on the responsibility of this website to make it better with some basic housekkeeping. We plan to work on several areas of the website this year. I, myself, will be dealing with one huge undertaking...reviewing the Articles to improve the verbiage in effort to provide clarity or revise the content, of course, with the assistance of the infamously knowledgeable Mopar1973man!! (so many of them! 😳 Yikes!) Gotta get rid of those virtual cobwebs 🕷️😂 So...keep checking the updates or look at my progress notifications. I will notify when I have completed each area...so be patient as I work on them.

Another update Purchased a TIMBO APPS and installed it. Drove truck about 100 miles on Sunday and had no issues with the throttle getting a mind of its own. It was warmer, mid 60s, and it has done it before in that temp range, so its looking promising that a faulty APPS when hot was the proper diagnosis. I have ran into that exact issue before with sensors and wiring, so if this repair holds, it really comes as no surprise. Currently still waiting on brake lines to come in, they should ship this week or early next week. We should start having 70+ degrees days in a couple months, so that will be the real test.

I'll check more deeply there than i have so far. I've been a member of both more quite a bit. Thank you.

Over the past 15 months I have just about completely rebuilt everything on my 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 and the one place which provided me with all the information I needed to solve problems, such as your 48RE failing mysteriously with no warning signs to direct you in fixing it, is the Cummins Forum website -- (39) 03-07 Powertrain | Cummins Diesel Forum There are some very good experienced highly skilled members there who know the 48RE inside and out and I am quite sure they will point you in the right direction. There are many good posts provided on the 48RE. And perhaps the owner of this website will provide excellent advice as well. I have learned a great deal of essential information here such as fixing my torque converter cycling problem using his info and links to other sources which provided exactly what I needed.

Any idea what could be the problem with mine suddenly? Drove fine in the morning. Went to leave for work that evening and it won't move in any gear. Changed the governor pressure solenoid and sensor to no avail

I have my 48RE built heavy duty at a local shop which specializes in 48REs which cost about $6K and is now capable of towing the truck's maximum weight and also can handle 1000 hp. However, my truck will never have more than 650 hp, if that. The 48RE when built correctly addressing all known weaknesses is an excellent transmission. I added a Full Send Diesel trans cooler unit which keeps the fluid temps in the 120-140 degree range.

I'm in southern MN, we also see temps like that regularly. my other 2 are manuals, but the family fits in this one. The biggest reason I'd like to keep this truck an auto is because its meant to be the camper hauler. Some of the campgrounds its just way easier backing in with an automatic. That being said, when i got in to go to work one day the truck just wouldn't move at all anymore. Changed the governor pressure solenoid and sensor to no avail. i'm not sure what to check further, haven't taken the time to research it. thinking of just pulling the trans and rebuilding it in my basement, possibly swap it to a full manual valve body.

I know this is an old thread, but thought I would mention, I just seen where Banks is offering a 2nd, 3rd & 4th add on heat element available to add to your intake. Just FYI

Well, I did get a new Quadzilla Adrenaline, I found a dealer who had it listed at a great price (I believe it was a lower price than what was allowed to be advertised) & they matched it. Of course I have purchased a few thousand from them over the years. (Looks like I will be making additional purchases be it I have two to maintain now. (you've been doing that for a while now, it's a lot at times) On another matter, since I repurchased my 1999 2500 back, I am changing out the the front suspension, thus far I have purchased Thuren Fabrication track bar & their XS front springs, Bilstein shocks to match the travel & Stryker off road control arms & RXR some of the bushings, etc. One thing I find interesting is if you ask 3 different fabricators how to install all this you'll get 3 different answers LOL. I'll try to do a write up/pics for some or all of it for the website if your interested. It would be my first write up so can't promise the level of quality, but I do promise a LOT more detail/info than what Stryker has on install. (see install video from their page) I thought it was way to casual be it they didn't say anything about how easily someone can get in trouble if they simply just start ripping control arms off. LMK if you would be interested in a write up & if so any tips would be appreciated.

@Mopar1973Man , the article is done. It is awaiting your approval. John https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation/transmission-transfer-case/low-range-2wd-cad-conversion-r758/

For those who own trucks with a CAD (center axle disconnect) front axle, this article will explain the benefits of remotely controlling the CAD operation and will also provide information on how to make the modification. For those who are not familiar with a front axle CAD unit, the following description may help. OEM vehicle - manually shifted transfer case (with CAD) - Theory of Operation The CAD front axle has three axle shafts - a driver side axle shaft, a passenger side axle shaft, and a short center axle shaft. The passenger side axle shaft and the center axle shaft can be connected or disconnected by the CAD unit. The center axle shaft is called the intermediate axle shaft in the photo below. The CAD unit is a vacuum motor that controls a splined sliding collar to lock the right axle shaft to the center axle shaft. There is a switch at the end of the CAD unit that allows illumination of the 4WD indicator lamp in the dash. 2WD Selected - front driveshaft does not rotate and CAD is disconnected. This feature minimizes front axle friction at highway speeds. 4WD HI Select on-the-fly - As the transfer case shifter is being pulled into the 4-HI position, a synchronizer in the transfer case brings the front driveshaft up to speed. As the shift is completed, a vacuum valve inside the transfer case actuates the front axle CAD unit and locks the passenger side axle shaft directly to the center axle shaft. 4WD indicator lamp is illuminated. 4WD LO Select - Vehicle must be stopped. Select 4WD LO. 4WD indicator lamp is illuminated. Something worthy of noting - when 2WD is selected, the front drive shaft stops rotating, the left and right axle shafts are still rotating (driven by the wheels), and the center axle shaft is still rotating, BUT in the opposite direction (because of the differential). This is the reason that when 4WD Hi is selected, the synchronizer in the transfer case brings the front driveshaft up to speed first. When the front driveshaft is brought up to speed first, then all three front axle shafts are rotating at the same speed and in the same direction. Now the CAD unit can connect the passenger side axle shaft to the center axle shaft. 2WD-LO Conversion (parts needed) Toggle switch - two position maintained switch with physical lockout Humphrey 4 way / 2 position, 1/8" NPT, spring offset, vacuum solenoid valve Model 410/12 VDC Appropriate length of vacuum tubing and 16 gauge automotive wire and wire connectors. This conversion separates the operation of the transfer case manual shifter and the CAD vacuum controlled shifter. The external vacuum ports of the vacuum valve (inside the transfer case) will be disconnected and plugged. A new vacuum solenoid valve for the CAD unit operation will be installed in a location of choice. A fused switch will be installed to operate the new CAD vacuum solenoid valve. A vacuum supply line will be routed to the CAD vacuum solenoid valve. Two vacuum lines will be installed to connect the new CAD vacuum solenoid valve to the CAD unit. Instructions for operating the new conversion are as follows: 2WD High - The transfer case selector must be in 2WD and the CAD switch must be turned off and locked out. 4WD High - Vehicle must be stopped. The CAD switch must be turned on. The 4WD indicator lamp will illuminate (truck may have to be moved slightly to engage 4WD lamp). From this point forward the transfer case can be shifted from 2WD to 4WD or 4WD to 2WD on-the-fly. 2WD Low - Vehicle must be stopped. Shift transfer case into Low Range. Leave the CAD switch turned off and locked out. The 4WD lamp will not illuminate. 4WD Low - Vehicle must be stopped. Shift transfer case into Low Range. Turn on CAD switch. The 4WD lamp will illuminate (truck may have to be moved slightly to engage 4WD lamp). Tips The 2WD Low Range can be very useful, especially for backing trailers in tight spaces, whether loaded or not. This is true for manual and automatic transmissions. You can basically idle the rig while backing very slowly in tight turns without the wheel hop associated with 4WD. Also, when traveling off-road on very steep and twisty terrain with varying traction conditions in low range, you can shift from 2WD to 4WD or 4WD to 2WD on-the-fly. Just leave the transfer case in 4WD and operate the CAD switch - "Off" for 2WD, "On" for 4WD. Always unload the engine (ease up on the throttle) when making the changes to allow the CAD unit to slide the shift collar easily. The CAD switch has a physical lockout to reduce the chance of accidental operation. When the switch not going to be used, always engage the lockout with the switch in the "Off" position. Enjoy the conversion! View full Cummins article

@Tweety Bird I love this woman. ❤️ She said something to me today that change my point of view. Dont let my cancer ruin my Dec / Jan time. Look at it this way Titanium was already created before this date but his birthdate of being is December 31, 2023. Cancer might of created him but ive got to celebrate his life! Titanium is 2 years old already. Like I mention in my previous blog entry im a Phoenix rising from the ashes and going to enjoy what ive created, and what I still have!

OMG!

Black

Will do. John

Could you produce a write up on this? Please!

I like that idea.....I'll drop you a message for more details!