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Any idea what could be the problem with mine suddenly? Drove fine in the morning. Went to leave for work that evening and it won't move in any gear. Changed the governor pressure solenoid and sensor to no avail

I have my 48RE built heavy duty at a local shop which specializes in 48REs which cost about $6K and is now capable of towing the truck's maximum weight and also can handle 1000 hp. However, my truck will never have more than 650 hp, if that. The 48RE when built correctly addressing all known weaknesses is an excellent transmission. I added a Full Send Diesel trans cooler unit which keeps the fluid temps in the 120-140 degree range.

I'm in southern MN, we also see temps like that regularly. my other 2 are manuals, but the family fits in this one. The biggest reason I'd like to keep this truck an auto is because its meant to be the camper hauler. Some of the campgrounds its just way easier backing in with an automatic. That being said, when i got in to go to work one day the truck just wouldn't move at all anymore. Changed the governor pressure solenoid and sensor to no avail. i'm not sure what to check further, haven't taken the time to research it. thinking of just pulling the trans and rebuilding it in my basement, possibly swap it to a full manual valve body.

I know this is an old thread, but thought I would mention, I just seen where Banks is offering a 2nd, 3rd & 4th add on heat element available to add to your intake. Just FYI

Well, I did get a new Quadzilla Adrenaline, I found a dealer who had it listed at a great price (I believe it was a lower price than what was allowed to be advertised) & they matched it. Of course I have purchased a few thousand from them over the years. (Looks like I will be making additional purchases be it I have two to maintain now. (you've been doing that for a while now, it's a lot at times) On another matter, since I repurchased my 1999 2500 back, I am changing out the the front suspension, thus far I have purchased Thuren Fabrication track bar & their XS front springs, Bilstein shocks to match the travel & Stryker off road control arms & RXR some of the bushings, etc. One thing I find interesting is if you ask 3 different fabricators how to install all this you'll get 3 different answers LOL. I'll try to do a write up/pics for some or all of it for the website if your interested. It would be my first write up so can't promise the level of quality, but I do promise a LOT more detail/info than what Stryker has on install. (see install video from their page) I thought it was way to casual be it they didn't say anything about how easily someone can get in trouble if they simply just start ripping control arms off. LMK if you would be interested in a write up & if so any tips would be appreciated.

Done. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation/transmission-transfer-case/low-range-2wd-cad-conversion-r758/

@Tweety Bird I love this woman. ❤️ She said something to me today that change my point of view. Dont let my cancer ruin my Dec / Jan time. Look at it this way Titanium was already created before this date but his birthdate of being is December 31, 2023. Cancer might of created him but ive got to celebrate his life! Titanium is 2 years old already. Like I mention in my previous blog entry im a Phoenix rising from the ashes and going to enjoy what ive created, and what I still have!

OMG!

Black

Will do. John

Could you produce a write up on this? Please!

I like that idea.....I'll drop you a message for more details!

Personally, I would keep the CAD unit in place. I did so and turned it into a 2WD / 4LO truck - very beneficial for slowly backing heavy loads in tight areas. I purchased and installed a vacuum solenoid valve and a toggle switch with a lockout (switch shown below). I bought my truck new and did this conversion over 20 years ago and over 300,000 miles ago. It has never failed and the 4WD indicator lamp works as it should. John

They work. I never seen a good install that work correctly. One truck just had the knob on the floor not mounted. One truck had the knob in the cigarettes lighter hole but when pulled you could tell if it locked because the light didn't work. If you install one make sure the cable is installed with large curves and the 4WD light works other than that you are just stuck hoping for the axle to work to give you 4WD. One reason I love the solid axle on my 2002 which has proven than solid axles dont pull MPG down.

I'm considering deleting the vacuum and going with a delete kit locking the front differential. Has anyone done this? Anything that screams DON'T DO THIS?

I've run across an automotive maintenance software made for both Microsoft and Linux systems. https://lubelogger.com/ This software is pretty cool in design, as it could possibly be used as stand alone software for business or personal use. There is no cost; it is FREE software. On Linux after you get it set up, it works like a website with a URL. I was wondering if anyone else was using this software.

The loss of the Quadzilla was totally on me this time for sure. Sadly, we had medical appointments and needed the truck, and I forgot to unplug the Wolfbox camera, and it ate the batteries pretty bad. Being in a hurry, I hooked up and fired up the truck, and that's when you notice the truck never shuts off. This is because it fries the circuit that controls power from the BATT + and the IGN leads. Basically, the Quadzilla circuit holds a short between the BATT + and the IGN leads to supply power after the key is switched off. The jumping of the batteries burnt that circuit till it was a solid short that was stuck on. You unplug the Quadzilla box the truck dies.

Was just reading your post from December, that was an expensive Jump start. Ouch. I just received my Quadzilla from DAP. Congrats on 500K miles. I thought I had a long to do list for my truck until I read your list.

Plug condition is good, I just had the two swapped mistakenly, caused back feed issues as the wire connector paths are different. I did use dialectic grease before putting the dash back in, thank you for the advice though

Since May 29, 2025, at 6 am, my yard has been a dirt pile with the remains of my shop and guest scattered across my yard. I ran into a Ziply Fiber staffer parked in Riggins, Idaho, and figured I'd try again to get someone to finally come out and fix the line that has been off the poles since. I informed the tech that this has been reported many times to Ziply Customer Service and nothing has been done. Today, I started seeing trucks pulling up into my neighbor's driveway and into our driveway to look at the lines. I grabbed my slippers and led the guy to where the line goes to the next pole south of me. Come to find out, this is listed as an emergency repair. YEA! FINALLY! Ziply Fiber is going to replace the poles and get the phone line back up on the poles again. Finny part is that Ziply Fiber needs to move the phone line from behind my house to the west, along the highway, which is about 200 feet to the east. So temporarily, they are going to get the poles and lines back up so my neighbors get phone service once again. I'm excluded. I dropped Ziply Fiber services for landline a long time ago. (Starlink / Verizon service here).

You might have all seen the change in my avatar to red hair. I've now past 2 years of daily makeup work when I leave the house. People still have issues understanding why? Do you all understand I've been a greasy mechanic since I was 14 years old? Yup, my life began with a desire to acquire tools and fix things as early as 14. So, for my life to change while having bladder cancer, I couldn't return to working on trucks in a commercial capacity. Even today, it pulls me down when I see a problem with someone's truck, and I can't do anything to fix being all my shop and tools are gone, and secondly, I can't because of my kidney issues as well, being a infection could really end my story quickly. I'm required to keep my ostomy bag clean and the area around it to reduce the chances of infection. Being my makeup work and my dress code enforce my safety and keeps me out of the greasy, dirty jobs. In 40 years of doing mechanical work, I've got to retire from my greasy jobs and rolling on the ground to protect my remaining health! Now, this doesn't mean I cannot help a person with their truck. I'm still a very knowledgeable person about the Cummins ISB and BT series engines. It's just the fact that I cannot place myself in a position that might cause injury to my stoma and/or puncture my ostomy bag. I'm trying out some ideas with local folks to guide them as a set of eyes and help teach the owners how to do the repairs themselves. Just place me in a chair to watch a job and guide on tools and the proper way of doing a job. The crazy hard part is to have done something for 40 years and now be FORCED to learn another way. I'm not willing to let go of the website, but this causes issues being I WANT to create more articles on the 3rd Gen stuff but I'm shopless. I don't even have a clean place to work, which adds a lot more frustration trying to keep clean by using gloves, laying carpet or board down to stay out of the mud/dirt. My strength isn't what it once was either and on top of that, I've got to be careful of hernia issues with having a stoma. I'm 2 years CLEAN of bladder cancer, listed as Chronic Kidney Disease 3a, and now a lifelong CPAP and ostomy patient. I'm looking at how to redevelop my life to continue doing what I love to do. I'm open to comments and suggestions or even questions about anything. https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTh2Gpn8a/

That is going to be soooo... Gansta! I love the old body style and that dark slate blue. OMG!

Just for info value possibly help. Beast is getting old, and things are wearing out I found that for my case, the stepper motor movement in only the winter time require me to push the knob in slightly for an extended period to allow the contacts to hold connection long enough to make the stepper motor to adjust the temperature for the air. If this helps, then it could be time to replace with a new dash control for HVAC controls.

What is the condition of the pins in the other plug by chance? Any oxidation of the connector? Might be an idea to use some dielectric grease to help keep the dampness of the cab in the winter months from affecting the ground connection from oxidation of the pins.

P025x codes basically mean the VP44 has issues with the PSG and the timing and fuel solenoid working correctly. The only way to fix it is the replacement of the VP44. My full error code list with diagnostic info. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation/engine/obdii-error-codes/