All Activity

Aftertgat check out my article on automatic transmission diagnostics. Usually you can find out what's going on that way as well. Automatic transmission diagnostics chart

Because they have a properitary design for the accuracy of fuel pressure readings. Strangely enough ISSPro sensors will work direcdtly with a Quadzilla display. Just shows why the problems of getting the sensor. Even the ISSPro EV2 pyrometer sensor will exchange on the Quadzilla. Just tidbits...

I can't complain, it lasted 15 years... REALLY curious why they are so secretive with the sensor though... Had to jump through multiple hoops to order one.

This is why I installed ISSPro EV2 gauges and properly protected the sensor. Im on the road but there is a article on my fuel pressure sensor setup.

Edge Performance Products is a PAIN to deal with... would NOT sell me a fuel pressure sensor without going through the whole trouble shooting process a 2nd TIME!!!!!! now I"m curious what is so special about this pressure sensor... @Tractorman I decided to go with their outrageously priced sensor because BOOST, EGT and Transmission temp were already running on my current configuration... Cost $120 after tax and shipping were added... I"m going to definitely check it out and see WHY I couldn't find a similar product for less...

I’ll take a look at the ground this weekend.

Absolutely. Reading the following may help you feel more at ease: I have owned my truck since new and it currently has logged 402,000 miles on the odometer. Odometer 66,000 miles August 2004 - First injection pump set a code P0216 ( a death code for the VP44). Odometer 87,000 miles August 2005 - Injection pump replaced with re-manufactured unit under warranty. Lift pump relocated as an in-tank pump application (also covered under warranty). Just prior to replacing VP44 injection pump, I monitored lift pump pressure because the word back then (similar to what is now) was that if you don't have 14 psi lift pump pressure, you are going to kill the VP44. So, I drove my truck for a week (250 miles) monitoring lift pump pressure. It operated within factory specs flawlessly and maintained 6 psi at wide open throttle at 2500 rpm. After the replacement of the VP44 injection pump and the replacement / relocation of the lift pump as an in-tank lift pump, my new lift pump pressure was 6 psi at idle and 3 psi at wide open throttle - yes, 6 psi and 3 psi! I was not concerned because by then I had learned much about the true operation of the VP44 fuel system. According to all of the diesel forums, I should have mutilated the VP44. But, that didn't happen..., and it still hasn't happened. Odometer 250,000 miles April 2016 - Install Smarty tuner and set for mild tune. Odometer 251,000 miles April 2016 - Replace in-tank lift pump (not because of failure, but to have more readily serviceable frame mounted used FASS lift (65 gph). Note that the re-manufactured VP44 has logged 164,000 miles with maximum fuel pressure at 6 psi. Should be dead now, right? But, alas, it isn't. FASS lift pump - 12 psi at idle, 6 psi WOT at 2,000 rpm Odometer 303,000 miles December 2018 - Replace original injectors with RV 275's Odometer 402,000 miles - November 2025 - Now have logged 315,000 miles on re-manufacture VP44. Should be dead by now - right? But, again, it isn't. I would like to note that this truck has never received fuel additives, nor 2-stroke oil to the fuel. Also, I would like to note that this truck has done lots of work covering thousands of miles at 20,000 lbs gross combined weight crossing lots of mountain passes in hot summer conditions. Hope this helps. John

I forgot to add that while I was doing the last checks on my vehicle before the dash started working. I also looked at the C130 connector which is on the right hand side of the fuse block in the engine bay

It is true that the overflow valve is regulated at 14 psi. However, this pressure (and the fuel return flow provided) has no correlation to lift pump pressure. Your statement here is misleading. I do agree that the overflow valve will be closed when fuel pressure that the overflow valve senses falls below 14 psi. However, the fuel pressure that the overflow valve senses is provided from the flow of the VP44's internal fixed displacement vane pump, not the lift pump. Consequently, the volume of return fuel through the overflow valve is the same for a given engine rpm and load whether lift pump pressure is 5 psi or 20 psi. The VP44's internal fixed displacement vane pump's flow is regulated to well above 100 psi. This is why the 14 psi overflow valve opens immediately when the engine is started. It never closes until the engine is shut off - regardless of lift pump pressure. Since the lift pump and the VP44's internal fixed displacement vane pump are plumbed in a series circuit, the volume of the the internal vane pump cannot be changed by lift pump pressure. The volume can only be changed by changing engine rpm. In the past I have posted the results of extensive testing by others (using a flow meter in the fuel return circuit) that clearly supports what I am saying here. This testing was performed in April of 2001 (before any of us even owned our trucks) by a few Turbo Diesel Register members. About three years ago I performed similar tests, as well. The results showed that fuel return flow remained the same, even when the lift pump was turned off and bypassed. I post this information in hoping to give a better understanding of the relationship between the lift pump, the internal vane pump, and the overflow valve operation in the overall VP44 fuel pump injection operating system. John

Either the wiper motor park switch is bad. It could be the multi-function switch my 99 Minnie Van has this issue. Ground for the wiper should on the cowl drivers side above like clutch fluid reservoir.

ISSPro EV3 gauges give both functions electronic gauge with Bluetooth ability to reprogram any settings in the gauge. Lights (color), warning color lights, set range of warning, much more. Might take a look at those.

so my statement albeit in the right intent was technically incorrect? So would I be safe just knowing my fuel pressure dropped below 10 psi? Typically my fuel pressure runs between 13 and 16 psi... with a working guage.

Once I had all the modules reconnected less the overhead and I was driving for a day or two all of a sudden the dash cluster started working and the check engine light is on, I was so happy. The last things I did was behind the dash on the right hand side I lifted up the wire harness back there inspecting how the sockets looked in the molded plug, Then I removed the ground wire that is located behind the kick panel on the drivers side which has several wires in 1 lug, and cleaned up that ground with scotch bright. I was so happy about the dash cluster working, but then my wipers are not functioning all of the time. I wonder if anybody has any ideas on this wiper working sporadically, it doesn’t matter what position I have the wipers set at sometimes they work sometimes they don’t.

The fuel pressure below 14 PSI is lower return flow while the engine is running. Basically demand of the engine will take more fuel to the engine and less on the return from the VP44 pump. If fuel pressure is not stable then your demand volume is greater than your supply volume. Return volume is what remains after injection cycle occurs. This why is not suggested to below 14 PSI because the overflow valve is closed by 10 PSI and no return flow occurs.

the over supply valve/over pressure valve or whatever you call it pops off at 14 psi... at 14 psi you get extra fuel flow to cool the pump.... at least that is what I've read and why my new VP44 came with a NEW OPValve... with specific instructions that it HAD to be installed or the pump would not be warrantied.

Any particular reason you don't want your lift pump to fall below 14 psi? You could plumb in a tee right at the injection pump fitting just for your test gauge. John

So I am tracking down an electrical issue that may be PCM related. The transmission shop said it's electrical, but I feel like there are odd things that it does that leads me to think it's mechanical. It was starting in second and third really badly, and it did not want to shift worth a dam. I replaced the vss on the back of the transmission, and it starts usually in 1st, shifting is allot better. First issue is that when I turn on the OD off button nothing happens. The truck still runs and shifts like normal. It shifts into od and eve locks the converter. It should drop out of oD and lock the converter, but it doesn't. Next is I can downshift down to manual 2 even at 30 mph and nothing happens. This leads me to it being a issue with the valve body. Sometimes it still starts in second. Now I just pulled into CVS, and went to put the truck in reverse and it hesitated, to go backwards for a second. It was weird. It drove fine for a few tear drives, and then it started shifting back into 4th gear at 30 mph and locks the converter. This has been driving me nuts. The shop said it is electrical, but the non working 1 or 2 selector.

As for today, I got out between rain showers and removed the injectors and boxed them up and shipped them to DAP. (Check back in a week)

IF I can customize the pressure alert, I would be fine with an alert bulb... I want to know my lift pump drops below 14 psi... I'd still have to have some way to check the pressure when setting it.

Yeah @Tractorman is right. I just caught @Sycostang67 same thing.

Unless you are absolutely set on having a gauge readout, there is the option of using just using a low pressure warning light. I have used the adjustable LEFOO LF20 pressure switch for years. It is my personal choice because the only thing that matters is that there is always positive fuel pressure at the VP44 inlet. The actual pressure value is unimportant. The activation of a LED warning light will catch your eye more readily than a low reading of a fuel pressure gauge. This particular pressure switch has a range of 0.5-150 psi and comes preset at 10 psi. It is compatible with oils and diesel fuels and it is very easy to adjust to a custom pressure value. The cost is under $40 from a variety of sources, including Amazon. You can easily wire in a LED light at a location of your choice. John

But..., before you replace any parts - make sure the transfer case shifter is NOT in neutral. Just sayin'... John

Sadly I'm not sure. I would say its time to pull the entire transmission out and check the clutches and bands. How many miles on the transmission? Any error codes or check engine light? When was the last time it was serviced (fluid change and filter)? With the 46RE, 47RE and 48RE are basically the A727 transmission with an upgrade of 4th gear. Now that being said, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears are all hydrualic shifts. THe 4th gear is "E"lectric shift. If there is no movement, I would start with pressure testing to see if the pump is producing enough pressure. You might want to stop by the DDownload section grab a service manual. 46RE, 47RE and 48RE 4 gears forward 6,7, or 8 the amount of torque on a scale of 0 to 9 Rear wheel drive Electric 4th gear shift. Here is my transmission book for the 48RE.

Today I managed to get the passenger side shaft out. I ran down to Steve Crump Service Center in Riggins hoping to use his torch to cut the trunion out of the shaft. That way the cap just need to be driven through (inward) to get the caps out. The other part of this trick is the cap has been heated by the torch and the expansion of heat hopefully broke the caps free. Sadly Steve's torch was not working correctly and the cutting part of the torch not getting enough oxygen to cut I think the nozzle was plugged up partially. I got rained out and returned home and inside to stay warm.

Thanks. I need to do the wheel joint super bad right now, the passenger side shaft is starting to wobble in the axle tube. Yeah, super good on the bearings and seals. Yeah, I know, but when you've been living off of 3 figures (small), you can't afford to buy much at times for repairs. Most of this was supposed to be done last year when I was shutting down the shop to the public for the winter, then CANCER for 2023 Christmas, and blew the entire priority list, and all went on hold. Then, toss in the mudslide and no tools for over 4 months, and trying to do even a brake job on the rear axle was super difficult without proper sockets or tools. Most of my funds went ot keeping me alive with food and fuel to make my chemo treatments. Everything stopped for Beast and Thor. I want to focus strictly on the website from here on out. I want to return to what I enjoy doing, even if it's just website work. I'm fine with that. Just yesterday's attempt at getting Thor's injectors out has me hurting pretty good in my lower back and hips. Yeah, I've lost a lot of strength from being laid up, and my ability to work for long hours is over. I cannot do 8 to 10-hour days any longer. 3-4 hours is pushing it. I cheat at times at get friends like Mark Hall to do some of the grunt work, pulling tires and heavy stuff to keep me safe. If I to lean over the front radiator support is hard on me because of my stoma location, and so easy to puncture my ostomy bag, which I did last week. Yeah to start walking around and wonder why your right pant leg is getting wet. Ugh! Being I lost the ATV in the landslide, we opted to keep me in a heated cab of a pickup to plow snow from the driveway. This is why I need to do the wheel joints on Beast because after we get the plow blade hardware, Beast will be used to keep the driveway cleared this winter. I wanted to use Thor, but Thor is going to need an engine rebuild in time since it has one bad cylinder for piston rings. (Ugh!) Yeah, this is so much to do with both trucks this fall, it's insane. Just remember, I lost EVERYTHING in that landslide (tools, supplies, parts, special tools, etc.) Then in the meantime @Tweety Bird and I are still trying to catch a break and get married yet!