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Just supportive mods. FASS and southbend clutch. I have different power levels on the quad and can feel a difference with it, I was thinking it was a “ factory” tune on it already.

Any modifications done to the truck? I dont think my quadzilla came with any tunes but its fairly easy to turn.

Anyone with a quadzilla use the factory tunes? I’ll be getting a tune from 1badvp44 here soon but in the meantime was gonna use the factory ones. I tow and daily drive and was curious if anyone had a preferred level for it. I’m coming from an edge juice that I usually left on 2 or 3. I picked up the quadzilla after many reads on here and Cummins forum. I have studied the tuning guide and I don’t have much understanding after reading it. My trucks a 98.5 with a 5 speed and stock tires with upgraded clutch and a FASS. With my edge, Level 2 was my tow/daily tune and 3 was when I was around the city, and of course 5 was when I was messing around. I don’t really have a comparison or suggestions on what level I should daily or tow in. Thanks

I have a dash cam in the truck but I don’t have it up right now, I can’t remember why. The truck sat so long with the ecm dead I forgot about it. The one I have in the mustang is pretty nice though, it’s small and hides behind the mirror. I also found a harness that plugs into the wiring for the rear view mirror so I didn’t have to run any wires through the car.

Yup cummins just called for conventional 15w 40 too nothing special. And I can get alot of conventional 15w 40 for the price of x1 round of break in oil. Cummins i trust to say what their engine needs and dont need mopar/dodge I'll take with a grain of salt

From what I understand regarding engine break-in for Cummins, is to operate the engine at various engine rpm's and various engine loads for a specified number miles (not sure about the miles ), and to not use synthetic oil during the break-in period. What Cummins does not want is a steady engine rpm and a steady engine load. Not sure about the use of break-in oil. John

So I finally have my new engine installed ( bone stock rotating assembly except I did put a tow cam in it) and im looking at engine break in procedures they all recommend towing decent weight no idle time ect all makes sense but I have 2 questions 1 ) should I run higher timing with the quadzilla to try and raise cylinder pressure for better ring seal? 2) highly contrivosal but does anyone recommend a break in oil if so what type? Ill be switching to Synthetic after the first 1000 miles and changing oil after the first 400-500 miles ( block has been sitting for years so lots of dirt and such probably in it)

I think I finally have this fixed. My fuel pressure had been getting very low a few times, 0-5psi. I just replaced all the fuel lines and swapped in a different check ball and spring. The old ball was definitely stuck in the spring, they did not separate as easily as they should have. Fuel pressure is now sitting steady at 13-14psi.

I think you would have found it. Your scanner was telling you that you had low voltage at the injection pump. I should have recommended that you check that connection as that connector is part of the battery supply voltage. You ought to hook your scanner and see if the voltage to the injection pump is now steady and higher than it was. That would help to confirm your find. John

And this is why I went to a flange.

It’s time to “spring” into action! 8 leaf 4000 lb pack 2 leaf 1150 lb overloads New shackles (All from Rockauto) I used 4” blocks from ProForm Fabrication (they’re also tapered to get the pinion angle straight too). I didn’t want the *** end to sit up super duper high so to compensate for the thicker pack I used slightly shorter blocks (my oem blocks are 4.5” tall). Old leaf pack is 2” thick and the new ones are 3-9/16“. The bolt by the fuel tank is not really an issue. Just cut it off flush with the hanger and you can drive it all the way in without hitting the tank. You can fish it out with a magnet and then put the new bolt in from the outside. I used locally made 5/8” ubolts and my old Barnes4wd top plates to keep the flip. For the eyelets I used 5/8”x 5” fine thread bolts with stover nuts. Removed the old bump stops since they do nothing now. My truck is a 2001, so it’s time for new springs. I can’t use airbags because unless it’s the c&c kit my gooseneck hitch interferes with the mounting plates. Also the c&c kit sits on the oem block pedestals and I don’t have those anymore now. Next up: Rebuilt NV5600 & clutch from LRG. Enjoy!

Timbo is a repackaged Williams Control. WC 131973/133284 is what they actually are.

The purpose of this thread, at least in its infancy, is to document what is happening and my plans of action to fix it. I feel like its a 'rare' problem (in that I cant find another thread with the exact same issue), it is certainly unique! As of the day of this rambling, the truck is just under 114k miles. 2001 2500, auto, stock, 4x4, loaded, etc.. Previously I had a thread wherein my grandpa still owned the truck and he was having the usual TC/OD issues. Never really did figure out what was causing that as the descriptions I had to work with were challenging at best, but I did the TPS signal wire TEE mod earlier this year, or whatever its called, from the TPS directly to the PCM and ECM. That fixed the TC/OD issue, plus it cleaned up the shifting. Definitely recommend that to anyone who hasnt done it! Also had an issue with the cruise surging heavily pretty much all the time. I believe that was because of the hole in the vacuum line, some heat shrink over the tube fixed that up real quick. But now, I am having an issue wherein the throttle just has a mind of its own occasionally. Typically only after the vehicle has been ran and heat soaked pretty well, or has sat for a minute, shut off, and restarted. It does not always act goofy and just randomly start accelerating once it is hot. It does it sporadically. At the same time, the throttle becomes EXTREMELY sensitive. No exaggeration, if you just move the pedal a millimeter or even just rest your foot on the pedal, the RPMs will get all sorts of goofy. Its pretty wild. When the truck accelerates by itself, it will typically pop up a CEL immediately (P1693, which is actually a P0121), and occasionally the pedal will go dead after one of these episodes. Press the pedal a time or two, almost like a relearn, and it usually works fine for a bit. usually a half mile up the road it will do some goofy stuff again. This repeats until the truck cools for some time. With the premise being set with the issue, I am fairly certain this is an APPS issue. This truck has not been ran hard ever. It has pulled 5th wheels, but RPMs were always kept below 2k. All that to say, I dont think its the VP. Truck runs great, plenty of power, etc. My first action is going to be to install a spare Mopar APPS that I have (I want a TIMBO, but until I know for sure, it will wait). I believe it is the original, as G-pa had the dealer put on a new one back in, 2019/2020. I would have to check his records. I suspect that the APPS is the issue, so this thread might only be 3 posts long. If that does not fix the issue, my next step will be to monitor signal voltages while driving as well as APPS % in Torque and see if I can catch a discrepancy. Feel free to follow as I keep my truck from driving off by itself.

You and me both. No fun, and I could have easily never seen it. I'm guessing this is the culprit behind the two fuel pumps that the PO had put in. I'm wondering how something like this could be found if it hadn't caught my eye?

A poor connection at Pin #7 would absolutely match your symptoms, as it is the 12 volt power supply from the fuel pump relay. Keep us posted - hoping you will never experience the issue again. John

In my picture above, the problem was the bottom right, which according to the above, would be pin #7

I was using the FSM to figure out what your corroded wire operated. If I am looking at the diagram correctly, terminal #9 should be the culprit. This pin-out says #9 isn't used. Am I looking at the correct pin? Do you know the wire color? John

If you opt for a new connector then you might ask @Auto Computer Specialist for a pigtail. There are some out the but watch the price on them.

This is great news! Your perseverance has paid off. I think you have found the problem. And you did it without replacing a bunch of parts. Congratulations! Good job with repairing that connector. John

Nope. Driveshaft was still spinning afterward

Wonder if the transmission seized

A few days ago I disconnected the harness connection to the VP44 to clean the silicon based dielectric grease and redo it with Motocraft XG-12, which I read was more appropriate for harness connections. I noticed one of the female connectors was sprung more than the others, and appeared to have some corrosion. I sprayed the connectors with Deoxit D5 and ran a brush for cleaning paint guns that was a good fit through them. I then sharpened a pick to be able to get in and pry the sprung connector back together and pushed some 30ga bare wire down into the slight gap between the OD of that connector and the plastic, which held it in place pretty well. Put it all back together. Two short test drives and one longer one today on the highway, getting on it pretty good, one time floored, and it didn't miss at all. Looks like that connector may well have been it the whole time. Sure hope so.... Before pic:

I've got to move my rear camera to the rear bumper very soon. I love the fact that high beams mean nothing now because it's not a mirror but a camera screen. With my unit being WiFi camera, I'm going to look into the WiFi handshaking with my network and possibly download camera footage. Dreaming at this point but give me a bit of time I might be able to pull it off. I'm really hoping!

I have the Wolfbox G900 Pro and I run split screen with the front and rear cameras at the same time. It works great! I even have footage of a bull moose running in front of my RAM during this last Elk hunting season.