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Thanks. So is that just a wire connector that's not plugged into anything then? Allowing a tuner to connect directly to the ECM vs the OBDII port?

I mounted mine on the factory lower part of the air filter housing right next to the battery. My guess is that you probably don't have a factory air filter housing. John

Im using a reset able 150 amp breaker on my setup and working great. Protects the electrical from a dead short. Yes alternator diodes can and will short out at times it just best to have a way to keep it from melting the wiring and starting a fire.

Like us we want to travel east to catch up with some members like @Doubletrouble @jlwelding @towhungerford and a few others that were there for me during my cancer battle. We will see soon.

Sorry. Been on the road this last week with limited cell service. But try the crayon trick on the next bolts or nut problem.

Today we are checking out of our RV space and heading back home with our cache of goodies we picked while in town. This has been a wonderful experience and teaching both of us what we need to travel on the road to see some of you. For a bench test I think we can get started traveling state to stay soon. As for makeup artistry wife and I enjoyed all the great comments as we been in town. Been nice for both us to escape the mess at home and take a break away from problems, phones, projects, etc.

CANBus is right near the ECM typically used for tuner connection. Wire map above covers both the CANBus and CCD bus. CANBus is used for the VP44 injection pump and tuner data.

No worries. Thanks for replying! Do you know where the "Cummins Bus" component is located? It's listed in the wiring diagrams with 3 wires to it. It's the only item I haven't been able to get my hands on so far. It's located in the bottom & towards the right in the diagram below. Says front left of engine, but I don't see anything. I was quite prepared to have the PCM looked at again, but then earlier this week I swapped that with one from the good running '01 & it made no change- This '02 truck didn't work any better with the '01 PCM & the '02 truck ran fine on the '01 PCM. So I'm thinking the PCM has to be working OK. Maybe it's time I recheck continuity on the CCD pair & all the ground & + wires to ECM & PCM.... 🤷‍♂️

That’s what I’ve done for a temp fix. The light is off. I found a used buckle online and am awaiting for it in the mail.

oh... this is all so last weekend :p

I can say engine oil temperature will show timing. Ive managed to keep Beast with oil temperature below 180°F even with coolant temperature ranging 197 to 210°F. Simply put if your timing is off oil temperature will rise to coolant level or higher. Now if I look back at all this time on DAP 150HP 7x0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar. Im at 504k miles and still got 6 to 7% engine load at idle. Now understanding even more about tuning. This works for Beast because of the wear on the injectors. As your injectors wear they start popping early as the spring tension loosens up. There is no way to build a tune and not have to retune over from weather change, wear on the injectors, fuel cetane levels, etc. I've got the RV in tow and gross weight closer to 17,500 pounds. Oil temperature staying in check most ive seen was on Whitebird grade at 1,200°F EGTs and oil temperature stay right at 180°F. Can anyone catch me?

As for the selt belt light take the two wires under the driver seat and twist together and light is permanently disabled.

Try heating the bolt nut and trying to melt a crayon in there. Ive seen this trick and not had a chance to try it yet. Shop still missing yet. (Shop 404 error)

Wife and I took the RV and headed to Lewiston Idaho for shopping and a bit of down time. Ive had my first problem on my trip my passenger headlight finally blew the bulb. Come to find out Lewiston doesnt even have and D2H bulbs for HID headlights. Im going to order new ballast and bulbs for Beast from Amazon. https://a.co/d/0hjxRZNE Upgrading from 35w ballast to 55w ballast and changing from 5000k to 6000k bulbs. Finding a bulb with the right connector is tough.

Sorry been on the road limited cell service. My suggestion at this point I would consider contacting Auto Computer Specialist and have the PCM and ECM tested. Something is wrong if the wait to start does light up, fuel pump not bumping at key on. Then the PCM creates the CCD bus so. Wiring on the CCD would need to be checked for sure. Bias voltage is not correct even after removing modules.

I won't be able to offer any help - I am responding because you haven't received a response yet and I didn't want you to think you were being ignored. From reading your post it seems that you have been very thorough in trying to get your issue resolved. You have checked everything that I can think of that needs to be checked. Maybe @Mopar1973Man will respond now that I have flagged him. He is knowledgeable in this area. John

No luck. Not surprised! 😆 Ordered a new drivers side door actuator.

Hello, I have a 2002 Dodge 2500, 5.9L 24V Cummins that’s been down for months & so far is stumping me. It has Auto trans, 4WD, & about 190k miles. As far as I know it’s all stock except for a FASS DDRP fuel pump. This is a long one, but any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Truck was running fine & then died. Cranks (spins good), but no start. First thing noticed was fuel pump not running. Then also saw gauges are not working, no wait to start light, & odometer flashes a few times then displays “NO BUS”. It will connect but not communicate with a scan tool. It either displays no communication from module or circuit open (from the airbag module). The OBDII scanner adapter lights up & I have Ign + & ground at the connector. That of course lead me on a CCD communication path for troubleshooting. I started by disconnecting each module or component, 1 at a time, in the CCD circuit. Got it down to only ECM, PCM, & cluster connected- no change. Went ahead & removed the cluster & still no start. While removing I inspected each connector for damaged terminals, corrosion, or dirt. They all looked good. I then checked the CCD wiring- for short to each other (the Bus + & Bus - pairs), short to ground on each wire, & short to Ign + on each. No shorts or incorrect continuity found on any of that. I also continuity tested each CCD terminal to all the other connector terminals for each wire. Every terminal has continuity with all others on each of the wire pairs. I then started checking all the grounds, battery +, & Ign + wires to the ECM, PCM & OBD II connectors, Every one of those tested well (even load testing them). I have also checked all fuses (good). At some point in there I self-tested the cluster. Every light & gauges seems to function properly. At the end I get 920, 921, & 999 errors in the odometer display. Seems to point to PCM problem… I have checked battery grounds to body & other points. All OK. I haven’t dug into doing a W-T ground wire mod, but doesn’t SEEM to be an issue with that either. Maybe I’m wrong though?… There is a ground wire to the block just above the starter & according to wiring diagrams, it grounds the fuel pump, fuel heater, A/C compressor clutch, & the CAN-BUS ground. The wire terminal seems good & 3 of the 4 connectors have good continuity to ground. I haven’t found the Cummins Can-Bus connector to check that. Diagrams show it’s located on front left of engine & has 3 terminals ( Bus +, Bus -, & ground). I’m unsure of where or how to check that…. I pulled the PCM & sent it off for bench test & repair. It was returned saying nothing wrong with it. Next I sent out the ECM. They found some corroded terminals & repaired solder connections. I was hopeful that their findings were the issue, but no change after reinstalling so doesn’t seem to be either of those. Next I went digging deeper in the CCD system. I’ve gone through some flow charts that don’t seem to show any issues. I’ve read multiple threads on here about CCD & saw posted that you need 2.49- 2.51v on each of the CCD wires to ground. I have 2.45v on each of them. I have a troubleshooting flowchart from Mitchell ProDemand that says I need 1.8v to 2.3v. So I guess I’m in range, but can’t say 100% either. Swapped PCM with a good running 2001 Cummins 2500, AT, 4WD. Both trucks functioned the same way as before even with a different PCM. This truck still had flashing odometer & NO BUS with the ’01 PCM. The other truck ran fine on the ’02 PCM. So that tells me the PCM in this truck is probably fine. The only thing that I can think of is to either swap the cluster (but I don’t really think that will do anything) or go back through all my wiring & fuses again in case I missed something. Or I am very open to suggestions if you have thoughts on this? Thanks for any help. I greatly appreciate it.

That is an awesome idea... when you have a torch :P (or remember that you have a torch).

Put a 2nd wrap around it. I’ll let you know

Try applying heat to stubborn bolts/nuts next time. Mapp or acetylene gas torch will do it.

I just played this game over the weekend... broke 3 short extensions and a breaker bar getting the caliper bolts loose, stripped one caliper slide pin (6mm hex by the way... might want to get a couple before you start), 3 cans of brake clean and half a tall can of PB BLASTER... oh.. two full days if you include the 4 RT drives to the closest auto parts store.

Frame ready to get a makeover

Looks beautiful, cant wait to see that country side one day.