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I dig up the stand alone control you need to shift a eltronic 47. This is a badass project You dont need the computer and all that. You did a 5600 so the 47 will be easy peasy. I just did my nv4500 and found i preferd building the 47 Throw gpz clutches in it with a few extra per kit. Do all billett upgrades you can afford aply pistons ect. Upgrade imput shaft with a good valve body. 2 grand goes along ways building a 47 even Spend most your money on the the tourge convertor. 47 will a decent build holds 600 easy 5th gear wont fall off and just plain is way more fun to drive. Youl stay on boost chirpn through the gears going sideways down the street. I just spent 2000 grand on my 4500 for virtually little to no gain just replaced all the broken stuff. For the same not broken stuff. Its kinda sad actually. https://shop.firepunk.com/products/firepunk_engineering_anteater

No one?

No one?

No one?

Got to thiking the hx40 is not normally a 4.4" vband. I think this might actually be what you need. https://ebay.io/m/oCjzDQ My turbo is a 62mm s300 with all kindsa funkery its short with 3rd gen charge pipeing and the 4.4" outlet. I bought the adapter and welded it to 4" pipe. Its not realy 4 3/8" i think thats the outer vband clamping part. I think these vband weld on adapters will fit over 3.5" so you can (should)easily be able weld on where you need it. Though verify what you have. Not sure why dap says its 4.4" or why you think it is. Also completly confused, truck currently has a hx40 and 4" downpipe installed I looked up the k27 outlet size and its 3" so im even more confused.

Theyre on ebay. Weld on vband 4.4"adapter https://ebay.io/m/KSds2v

I put right at 10k miles on the truck and the transmission decided it was done. Its been built atleast ounce before Heres a quick vid. Im wanting to do a filter set up as i feel the trans bearing went to **** mainly due to neglet.

Testing My carnage pile. As you can see the main was already updated. Went with parts from allstate, itw, and transtare. Steerd clear of tourqe king because i feel they are same parts for twice the cost Looking to fab a spin on filter set up from scratch on passenger pto position. Offcourse the damn internet led me here to this circus. God i hste to love this damn place.

Yeah I called DAP last week. They said they would check the wearhouse and call me back. Never called back. But i emailed in and they said I need a HX35-HE351 Adapter Sweet! It goes from 3" to 4 3/8" Awesome!

Might try contacting DAP

New to this forum, but not the cummins forum. I bought this truck a month ago, turbo bearings are shot. I bought a Borg Warner K27 turbo. Truck is set up with a 4 inch down pipe with an HX40 4 3/8" Flange. I need an adapter to go from 3" inch ( stock size ) up to the 4 3/8" flange. I've called several diesel specialty shops. No luck.

Any auto trans guys with aftermarket coolers?

Anyone, any thoughts?

Anyone?

I just ordered the billet filter head from Pure Diesel Power because I also hate the stupid factory housing. I've had hell with mine and I'm sick of screwing with it. I was just gonna go with the 94-96 head kit from Geno's but the one from PDP has a nice little port for my fuel pressure gauge and I'm excited to see how well it turns out once I get it installed. 89-02 Dodge 5.9L Cummins PDP39256 Billet Fuel Filter Head...

Diesel Auto Power has the black fuel hose 1/2.

Yes - well, not anymore. It was cracking pretty much along the full length.

just following up finally to close this thread so these pumps dont have a yellow wire, even though it really looks like i have a chewed up yellow wire, that was actually an old paper tag of some sort. i found a replacement connector and this weekend i dug into it. i took the wire loom off and found absolutely no wire damage. however, the outside edges of the connector were bowed out convex like and the rubber seal was smashed up inside the connector. i remembered reading on here about how these pins can lose their ability to make good connection so i proceeded with the repair. and it seems to have fixed the problem. i cleared the codes and after 4 or 5 trips i have not seen any codes come back. whats interesting is i had a p0220 and a p1689, neither of which have come back after replacing this connector. truck is now running great, sort of... in the process of this repair my lift pump stopped running but thats a different issue than this topic is really intended for

Uploaded some pics of some plugs that are unused behind the dash. Been curious of what they were intended for. Any thoughts?

Hello moparman1973 and the community at large, excited to make my first post. Quick background on me - engineering background, had some WRX's which I loved (totaled both, lol) and always wanted a diesel, never thought I'd be able to friggin' afford one. I ended up getting from my buddy a 1999 Ram 2500 RWD / NV4500 5-Speed Manual, Extended cab & 9 ft bed, ~313k miles, for $500! Which he was happy to do - he bought this truck from the original owner in FL, that guy used it as his daily marine mechanic/repair rig for years and to tow a 5th wheel trailer to Alaska and back to FL every year for the first 12 years he owned it. My buddy got it near the start of college in 2017 around 270k miles, and by 2024/312k miles it needed a new clutch so we put the cheapest ebay clutch and flywheel we could find on there at my place. Took all day, got soaked in the oil that has kept the entire vehicle rust free for the past 26 years, it was a true bonding moment for a couple bros. Then a week later, on his way back from work, the KDP hits! Ah! Oil everywhere! Unfortunately he lives in an apartment so no easy way to fix it, just got out of college so no money to take it to a shop, so he was ready to take it to a junkyard. I told him he'd probably get $500, he agreed, I offered it to him and he was happy to get his money back on the cheap clutch. His fiancé was happy too (my wife not so much, but she has come around in that she is glad I have something I think is kewl). Anyway, I've had to repair basically everything on this truck and this community has helped me out a friggin' ton. So I figured I wanted to give back. I'll start with this fix for the overhead computer - my issue is that it would not save any changes, it would reboot to the same state every startup. The guy I got it from said it had been like that at least since 2017 when he bought the truck. Well if you open up one of these overhead display computers up you probably have seen the orange "SURGE" labeled capacitor to the bottom right of the display module board looking terrible, with the glue that originally held it looking worse. Well the capacitor is an easy replacement for anyone with a few hours of solder experience, but that alone doesn't fix it. In this case, the glue had corroded a through-board via that was used for the key-off sense --> save state to EEPROM circuit. I was able to fix it by simple drilling out the top side corrosion of the via, scraping the green soldermask coating off the trace going to it, and just soldering them together. In order to track down this fault I went as far as removing the display and desoldering the EEPROM chip to test it. I have that .BIN file if anybody wants it, but it doesn't seem very useful honestly. However you can probably pull a read off the EEPROM on this overhead computer without removing the display, there are via's off the EEPROM that are really only there for access from the backside. I've taken lots of good pictures of this board and uploaded them to a public github repo here if anyone wants to see them: https://github.com/dhef2543/2G-2nd-Gen-Dodge-Ram-Overhead-Trip-Display-Computer-Documentation/tree/main Hopefully someone benefits from this! Thanks for reading my post. If you're still reading, I've also got a spare (told it was broken so I broke it more) ECM with this truck that I have been reverse engineering in Ghidra, and hardware reverse engineering / documentation via KiCad - already figured out a bunch of neat stuff, how DTCs are thrown and handled, how the fuel tables are handled, how the VP44 CAN messages are built and interpreted, how to remove 3200 RPM limiter. Haven't tried the RPM limiter on my truck yet (333k mile stock springs lol) but I have seen others doing it online and pushing some VP44's to 4000 RPM, nothing other than ECM flashing. Some VP44's only hit 3500-3800 but they all fall pretty flat up top anyway from what I've seen on those posts. That ECM reverse engineering repo is still a bit disorganized and incomplete, I'd like to share it here once I get a bit more done and prep for a public repo. My ultimate goal there (if I see it through) is to design a totally compliant drop-in aftermarket ECM that works fine with the regular DRBIII scan tools and such. Another cracked up project I have brewing in my head is a custom P7100 / p-pump with electronic timing, that could drop right in with our ECMs (or custom tuners, aftermarket ECMs, etc.). Machining a custom P7100 body wouldn't be cheap, but I can't help but think it would be sooo sick to have the super quick cold starts and overall better mpg of the vp44 and the 4-5k rpm range of the p-pump. Has anyone tried? Anyone interested in such a thing?

Super old thread to dig up, but curious if these units are still expensive. I'd like to have one!

Did you have old blue fuel line on your FASS? I replaced all of mine earlier this year as it had cracked. My truck wasn’t losing prime but it was causing fluctuations in my fuel pressure. I could even hear my pump cavitating.

UPDATE: I found a running 2000 Cummins 2500 2wd truck for 2k. So now I have auto ecu, pcm, all the wiring and trans! This truck the center mpg and compass deal, also had dual mirror and lighted visors so that will be going in the 1500 now. Ill have to use this trucks harness for everything now due to its auto, upgrade extras, and it has no abs so it will plug right into the 1/2 ton 1500 braking system. Unlike my previous conundrum that the 02 abs wiring had. So it seems its a win win on this part! ***This parts truck had a vacuum cruise control*** that I'm using everything for. I don't want that. The 02 had electronic cruise control. Since I have all this stuff from both parts rigs, how can I incorporate the electronic cruise control and delete the vacuum portion?? The 02 has 3cyl high idle and 6cly high idle! I'd like to retain this. This question applies prolly to both high idle and cruise, can the @Auto Computer Specialist install/add all these things I'm wanting/needing? Keeping all the options etc?? Ill have to swap/use the CTM from the 2000 truck too I believe, correct?? Keeping in the addition of things, how easy it to add keyless entry/ alarm? Having to rethink the rear axle, even though it will work for awhile, I don't think its gonna handle the power for long and I don't wanna do this twice Here's a head scratcher: So I can use my dana 80 and re-gear to 3.55's and have DISC BRAKES! Then use 8x6.5 to 5x5.5 adapters to get to my lugs wheels I'm using and to keep the stock appearance. Only problem there is those adapters space out everything 2'' and that would make wheels stick out way to far. ^The parts truck has a dana 70 with 3.55 but has drum brakes.... still and option. ^also to keep in mind the dana 80 with disc brakes, the disc brake would be massive compared to the front brakes. Or try and build a 3rd gen 1500 disc brake axle to handle 600 ish hp OR Find/make 5lug axle shafts for a dana 70/80 OR Custom axle OR Just used 8 lug wheels......Use dana 80 disc in the rear and then make the front have 8 lug as well with disc brakes/spindle from 2500 parts truck. OR Use dana 70/80 and use 8 lug to 5 lug adapter and buy different wheels with better back spacing.

Little update: Luckily! I found a 2000 running 2wd cummins truck for 2k. Gonna part out but keep engine and trans. Ill post on my main thread some other details I'm getting out of this deal. So I'm gonna use all the wiring from this truck since it had an auto and lots of upgraded options I didn't have initially - posted in main build thread. Ill have wiring, pcm, ecu at my disposal, wiring is coming out, I just got the transmission pulled yesterday. Couple of things: I want to get rid of heat exchanger I want to have a stand alone cooler system- new lines- new cooler and fan. I've seen some setups just doing a quick google search but I am unsure of what I need exactly. Do you simply just mount the cooler and fan on frame (under bed in front of wheel as Ive seen) then route new lines straight to the transmission? Or route new lines to a new cooler in original location. Keep in mind this just a play truck with no towing. *Ill also need to figure out/learn if Ill need the "ant eater trans controller" from fire punk *Trans purchase is still up for debate from Firepunk or Randy's Check out my main build thread for more updates and well... Questions.

You are right ive got some firewall tweaking to fo yet with other services like voice reader etc. Yes firewall is a quick breaker but even have fail2ban kick you out. Food for thought too.