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Its been super handy to have for sure but the mean time till failures is about 2 to 3 hours at best. Lost the starting system was pulling fuses and ended up breaking two fuses. Found the loose starter lead. Fixed Next morning got up and had two flat tires. Spent a day getting them fixed. Next morning get up and run the tractor for some clean up of lumber and dirt. Belt breaks and overheated. Replaced belt. Next morning I get up to move 1 tree off the hill and front driveshaft falls out and drains all 15 gallons of hydraulics fluid. Total time running 10 hours and all this go wrong.

Nope as soon as Mark seen it I shutdown and there it sits till I can get to Lewiston to get about 15 to 17 gallons of Kubota UDT-2 fluid for the transmission and hydraulics.

I havent seen his stuff and I follow almost EVERYTHING 2ng gen "cutterup" obviously the man for 12V but thanks for the post, I will check his stuff out for sure

Hows the new tractor working out?

When you fold everything backup to transport mode- recheck your fluid levels - before you put back in service! Where (all) cylinders are positioned highly dictate your fluid level! Also If you haven't done it yet, it a GOOD time to cut the hydraulic filter open and check for debris, and well obviously replace your filter. Hopefully the machine didnt run for long after it happened.

They have hit a bullseye on this! Been following them for awhile now. However expensive, its not bad if you actually need a "complete" dash. The sub dash frame is rather pricey if you can find one, I've seen some extremely high prices online before. They have an extremely big cool factor! I really want one but can't justify the cost right now on my restoration/drag build. You can get (I have one) a completely brand new dash top (NOT a cover) for $300 from LMC Truck and they look amazing! Same with their dash bezel as well (got that one also). Depends on your build and what your going for in your truck. Work truck- NO just get a replacement dash. High end build -possibly, aesthetics take place here. Original nice new or super tough bad mama jama? Or both? Money to burn?..... just get it, and I'll be jealous lol.

So I follow Devin Henry on fb also known throughout the world as #superdarf He has TONS of videos on his second gen and lots of mods/ test from a tons of different products he has done/ tried. Some which are very interesting and informative. He has just recently added custom delivery valves into his vp44 and I thought it was interesting to share/ discuss. Anyone else ever done this mods or heard of it? If any power or throttle response etc? I highly suggest you go through his videos and check out what he has done!!! *I have no affiliation* Video Link for delivery valve lope

So ive been thinking about pulling the trigger and ordering the aluminum dash LRB speed has. I've seen so many pros and cons on facebook. Im more form over function and want something that will last, but wanted the thoughts of you guys. With powder coating and the glove box option its $1900. And before anyone comments about the ramifications of dying a bloody death in an accident, we all know the airbag probably wouldn't go off anyways.

Another run. I got up and got the repairs done above. There is a bit of redneck engineering being 2 fuses are Kubota only. I'm going to rewire 2 circuits for having a waterproof breaker instead of Kubota only fuses. Got the tractor going again. Now the next morning 2 tires are flat. I work most of the day to get one front and one rear tire in the bed of Beast and haul to Grangeville ID for tire repairs. $100 later both tires are fixed and reinstalled last night. This morning I figured I would pull one down tree off the bank and get it ready for a friend to process it down into firewood for me. As I'm working to get the last half of the tree off the bank and the front driveshaft falls out and drains all 12 to 13 gallons of hydraulic fluid out of the transmission. Now I need two 80 cent pins for the front drive shaft and fix the BS repair some else did which was welding the collar in place. OMG!

Yep sounds about right

I bought a 2016 Ram Cummins 2500 Crew cab short bed Laramie 4x4 on May 30th, 2026. Everything was working great until a week and a half ago, when my DEF reductant sensor started pegging empty or full repeatedly. I looked up the reductant sensor, and it was around $700. I figured that it was time for a full delete instead. I bought a complete SPELAB delete kit for $1,224 shipped - EGR valve and cooler delete, DEF, DPF, and SCR delete, and it came with a H&S Mini Maxx V2 tuner for the delete tune, and that includes Tow, Performance, and Extreme tunes. Also, I bought their 3.5" intake horn and intake manifold plate (comes with its own coil grid heater) to delete the OEM grid heater. You will definitely need the IAT sensor extension harness too. I installed the delete tune file first, as that is the recommended first step before removing any hard parts. I did that, and my check engine light for the DEF reductant sensor was gone. I ran the truck down the road to just check the Tow, Performance, and Extreme power tunes, and while I could tell they definitely modify the fuel and timing and added more power and torque. I decided to leave it on the "No Power" delete tune only. I already bought a like new Edge Juice with Attitude for the truck, so I was just going to use it for the power adder since I trust Edge tuning more than H& S Mini Maxx, since H&S has been out of business since the EPA heavily fined them in 2012 or 2013. Next, I removed the OEM intake horn (which removes the EGR valve and throttle valve), intake manifold plate and installed the grid heater delete kit. The only real PITA for that, was removing the fuel injector lines to install the intake manifold plate. Other than that, it was a pretty straightforward install. Then, I removed the EGR pipe and EGR cooler and installed the (2) EGR cooler block off plates onto the exhaust manifold. The 2nd block off plate comes predrilled and tapped for an EGT probe, which made it fast to install the Edge EGT probe. I haven't had a chance to remove my DEF tank, DPF or the SCR yet, but the truck runs really good now. I just got my Edge Juice with Attitude and my cabin air filter and door installed yesterday, so I figured sometime this next weekend, the exhaust delete kit will get installed. Full delete kit Grid heater delete kit View full Cummins article

I am leaving for two weeks (camping and fishing with a friend) to the Grand Mesa in Colorado. I will consider putting together an article when I return. All of the area on the map below is right at 10,000 feet elevation. John

Yesterday I was raking through the pile and separating lumber and debris. FedEx shows up and shuts down the tractor. Took care of FedEx, and then the tractor would start. After probing the internet looking for information. I gave up and quit for the day. Got up this morning and tore all the stuff apart and found the problem: the solenoid lead was pulled and hidden, could see it. Plug it into the starter worked. Then put it all back together. Now I'm repiling the debris, and the belt breaks, and the alarms are going off for an overheat condition. Now everything is at a stopping point again. Now I'm forced to enjoy the 4th of July and just relax being the tractor broke and now gotta wait for parts.

I can leave it right here and let you author out an article on the website. I'll give you a $10 credit on your account for article production. You create, edit, and modify anytime you wish.

We are fighting the same battle here. Fixing trucks, then now fixing the tractor so I can continue clean up of the old shop. Just lost the solenoid wire but here we are hunting for bad fuses and bad relays. Possibly a bad safety switch. Just fixed the starting problem and lost the fan belt and overheated.

Hey all just touching base been a few i got a all from a friend i nc. To come viset he is getting his 69 flh togather well long story short he shamed me into ridding my 83 fxr thought i better check s few things and put oiling system back to stock pulled apart found compensator, rotor,and stator all bad 900.00 later i had togather and packed out 60 miles from house no spark so called the wife , got home started to take 07 ultra and had noise in primary opened it up and clutch basket chain sproclet shot guess i cant complain to mush has over 170k mi. On that part so went to my 98 dodge fired it up poped right off got warmed up had to shut off and now it has a hard start when warm ishu no codes so tink my rdding season is a read test and fix season lol think of me when running roads

You have done some incredible troubleshooting! And such a simple, inexpensive solution! You came here asking for help, buy you ended up providing the help. Thank you for posting the details of your solution. Your thread will be an inspiration for others to be diligent and methodical when diagnosing difficult symptoms. @Mopar1973Man , could you save this thread in a place for easy access for anyone to read? It is an excellent read for anyone to illustrate the importance of methodical troubleshooting. It could be titled something like, "Why Methodical Symptom Diagnoses is so Important" - followed by an introduction from you. John

Glade you found the problem. It's the simple problem that that makes a thing hard. I've had a fuse do the same thing years ago, it to drove me crazy.

Well I finally figured it out & got the truck repaired. After inspecting the ASD circuit & relay & finding all OK (which goes directly to & from the PCM), I rechecked the power & ground circuits to the PCM. I did not have voltage at the battery + connector pin. Traced that back to joint connector 2 in the PDC & then on to the 20 amp J-Case #3 fuse. Keep in mind, I checked these wires to the PCM previously & had voltage at that battery + pin. I found that the fuse was not burnt from overload, but cracked & intermittently working. It even looked fine through the top clear cover. I pulled it to check closely & with a DVM to check continuity. It would beep off & on when I wiggle the leads around. That's how & when I found the crack. I installed a new fuse, reconnected everything, & it's working great now. Have a good day fellas.

I want to start a thread and see if any of you guys have tractors, and what do you use to service your tractor parts and supply-wise? These are the Wix numbers, but we all know it will cross over to NAPA just as easily. I'm going to hold to the UDT2 fluid that Kubota uses for now till I get some research. I'm already enjoying the fact of being able to move dirt now and straighten out the yard and get rid of all the trash pile out here.

Finally got my materials together to do a service on the new-to-us but 2018 M62 Kubota backhoe. Since I was pulling all the body off the engine finding out that the doghouse panels are missing clips and are tie-wired on. I upgraded to racing zipties. I replaced some old-looking Kubota filters on this machine. I dumped the little 9-quart engine, which actually has 2 drain plugs, because the front driveshaft is running right up the middle of the oil pan. Boy, it's tough to spin off the filter when you can't find your oil filter wrenches. Mark found them for me. Fuel filter: no problem with a filter wrench. That one seems to need to be pretty tight to keep it from weeping and hard starts. Air filters: there are two filters, an inner and an outer filter. I just opted for full replacements of all filters. Am I waiting till after the 4th of July to run to Lewiston for some UDT2 fluid for Kubota, unless anyone knows of something better? Locally, no one sells the Kubota UDT2 fluid. I've called and looked in different shops, even at the shops that service equipment. I love the built in jacks. 🤣😂🤣😂

Yeah, that is one of my fully dressed up green photos. Thanks for the comment. Clutch slipping? No. I've only got Beast (2002 Dodge Ram 2500) and Thor (2006 Dodge Ram 3500 single) I'm wanting to rebuild Thor and make it my next truck for working with. Beast is retired to pulling the RV now. Going to try and get started doing the same thing. I've been out chasing filters and fluids for this 2018 Kubota M62.

Could you write an article on your experience of said delete? Source of products? Etc.

I just deleted my 16 Ram 2500 Cummins, with a non-Banks intake manifold with grid heater, and intake plate, and the egr valve and cooler delete. I still need to install the DPF, DEF, and SCR delete yet. I know Banks makes great products, but if you think about the size of the intake manifold, and Banks claiming theirs flows the most CFM, it's still gonna hit the intake chamber in the head, where that will be the bottleneck. The intake chamber can only flow the same amount of air unless you buy a head that's been ported or modified to flow more cfm than the stock head. I just couldn't justify spending $720+ for an intake manifold when my whole delete kit was $1,225 for tuner with delete tune and performance tunes, and EGR, DPF, DEF, SCR delete. My DEF reductant sensor started being wonky and constantly flopping back and forth between empty and full. A new sensor was like $700+, so I bit the bullet and deleted my truck a little sooner than expected.