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Nice, I have access to pretty much make any hose a want with any fitting so I think ill be doing something just as you did!

If you’d like to take your power steering a step further here’s an idea to bulletproof it more. I finished today converting both my 6 bolt PSC steering box and both hydroboost fittings to 6 AN/JIC. Now if I have a hose failure a simple 6 JIC hose is all that needs replacing vs the oem hoses that seem cheap and poorly crimped.

I stand corrected! I guess all I been seeing was you as an unpaid member and thought you'd vanished lol. Glad your here!

Oh I’m around ;)

Thank you @Tractorman exactly what I needed. The PS mod seems a bit daunting but once I get all the parts and get to stare at it face to face I should have it licked. I might try to a article style build on it if I can remember, usually get to excited on projects and get them done and realize I didn't take any progress pics. I did find that PS pump, just googled it and ebay has them for $160, some others double that. The VC pump I can get through oriellys for $123 then add military discount 😉 Too bad that guy isn't a member here anymore. Seems like he had some good ideas and knowledge to add. That reservoir will do fine, I have just been looking to see if there is another tank that has some better mounting options. So far most of them only come in a 2 port design. A tee fitting might work since the 2 small ones are only returns.

I’ll find my alligator clips and give it a whirl. Might be a couple days I’ll check back in with what i find

What about temporarily testing with a Voltmeter? Connect one lead to the OR/BK wire from terminal #11 at Connector #2 PCM connector and the other lead to ground and go for a test drive. When TCC is unlocked - 12 volts should be present. With the TCC locked - 0 volts should be present. You might get some useful information with this test and it doesn't cost anything to perform. John

I’ll start as simple as i can, we can expand as this thread goes on. Basically, i am familiar with the AC interference issue and have “fixed” that by following the WT tutorial. I rebuilt the transmission myself a few years ago and can’t completely rule out a valve body issue. I think a piece of debris could have made its way into the TCC plunger somehow and scored the bore it rides in, and when I rebuilt it i reused the same oil pump and valve body and torque converter. This problem didn’t show up right away and instead took a while to start happening. Ive got a quadzilla installed in the truck currently. Im experiencing a weird intermittent problem. It manifests through torque converter lock/unlock but does not follow the same rapid speed that AC interference does. Its much slower and completely unpredictable. Only happens in 3lock or 4lock but will happen at any speed (35-85mph) that those gears can be used. Last week i hopped in to go to work and it was behaving as though the MAP sensor was unplugged, was not registering boost through the quadzilla, I hadn’t connected to the iquad in a while so I also noticed at that time that i had no fuel pressure reading. I unplugged and replugged those connectors and the truck ran perfectly for the next week, now its back to the same behavior. I thought, wow what a coincidence that both sensors use the same round 3 pin (deutsch?) connector, got some contact cleaner and dielectric grease and got no improvement. Still no fuel pressure reading so it may have been hammered to death and just needs to be replaced. Also using an aftermarket MAP sensor thats been installed for probably 7 years now. A few weeks ago i got a multimeter out and confirmed that the TCC solenoid is giving the appropriate resistance and that I do have continuity through that whole circuit. I have an autel ml629 scanner and am not seeing anything obvious in the live data nor do i get any relevant codes. I only have a code for grid heaters as i have them disconnected because the leads melted and i didn’t want a fire hazard. Im hoping someone has insight before i order a valve body from randys transmission, its an expensive dart to throw at a problem that so far seems to be possibly related to the MAP sensor as well. Maybe there’s a ground circuit I need to look at? Ive got really good battery terminals (napa military style) and oreilly brand marine deep cycle batteries.

I used a Standard Motor Products VCP112 electric vacuum pump for my application. It was less than $100 from Parts Geek. This vacuum pump regulates pressure from 13" HG to 15" HG and there is no flow rating listed. It is suitable for my application because it only supplies vacuum to the HVAC and the 4WD CAD unit. My cruise control is operated by the ECM, so no vacuum servo is used. If you are going to use a vacuum servo, then air flow volume could be a concern for you. My previous exhaust brake was vacuum controlled. The reduced volume of the SMP VCP112 made the exhaust brake slow to actuate and to release, which was not acceptable for me. That didn't matter at the time because I replaced the vacuum operated Jacobs exhaust brake with a PacBrake PRXB and air compressor at the time of the vacuum pump / power steering pump conversion. @Mace, who provided the information for this conversion, uses a similar vacuum pump as mine. He noted the delay of his exhaust brake operation as well, but it was acceptable for him. Parts needed for Vacuum Pump Conversion and Power Steering Pump Conversion by @Mace . Vacuum Pump Conversion CON166 - pump connector (Rockauto) VCP112 - vacuum pump (Rockauto) Vacuum hose Mini fuse tap connector 4 pin relay & base connector Power Steering Pump Conversion 4002056 plug - Cummins RES0161 reservoir - Rockauto 4988390 pump kit - Cummins performance.com M20x1.5 to 6 jic fitting The description for these mods is in the following thread. John

@Tractorman Just cruising around doing some little research here and was wandering what vacuum pumps would be acceptable to use? There's honestly quite large variety online and some very expensive versions. I didn't see any specific VC pump listed. I haven't started my 24v 1500 build yet but I think I need to get a handle on this. Were (2nd gen) only using it for HVAC and cruise so its not a "vital" part, meaning you prolly dont need the most "expensive-best" option. The vacuum portion seems straight forward, get pump and supply key-on power and hook up the main vacuum line. What all did you have/need to buy for your PS pump conversion? Been a long while since I got to use this gif...... so

Been horn free for the last 2 days. The actuator seems to have fixed my 3 horn honk issue.

Good lookin' truck ya got there. 406,000 on my 2002, 4WD 6 spd (bought it new in October, 2001) John

See ya there lol! I guess now that it runs right I have to actually care about it, so i gave it it's first bath in a LONG time lol.

Come join me at 504k miles on Beast.

Thank you! Yes I am definitely feeling the high! With as much time, energy and money I've put into this thing, it better be problem free for a while 🤣. I will say, I was doing a quick inspection while I had the pan off and the crank, rods and cam look brand new still at 200k miles! No oil buildup, etc! The cam lobes looked perfect too!

Congratulations!!! Are you feeling euphoric? I have been waiting for you post. Now that your truck has thoroughly tested you and you won, the truck should behave itself for the rest of its life under your ownership. John

PROBLEM SOLVED: LINK TO VIDEO Well guys, I did some digging in the oil pan today and found the missing bolt. I pulled all of the tone ring bolts out, threw some blue loctite on them and buttoned everything back up. Sure enough the knock is gone! It sounds like a normal 24v again! FINALLY! I've been chasing this issue since 2021! Thank you to everyone who offered advice or suggestions! I'm so thrilled I get to close this chapter. I hope if anyone else has similar symptoms in the future that they find this post and can solve their issue and not spend near as much time and money as I have going through this truck.

TM, I agree that it should prime for 1/4 second. I am saying that my faulty ECM ran the lift pump for probably 20 seconds once the WTS light kicked off, which is NOT normal behavior. But yeah i found it strange so i figured i would post here, as this is a phenomenal research and knowledge repository for vp44 knowledge!

Good to have another source for ECM repairs. Also, glad to hear that your truck is running well. Just for clarification, the ECM does run the lift pump for about 1/4 second when the ignition switch is turned on. If the starter is bumped and then the key is released, the lift pump will run for approx 25 seconds. From the FSM (2002): The transfer pump is self-priming: When the key is first turned on (without cranking engine), the pump will operate for approximately 1/4 second and then shut off. The pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is engaged, and then disengaged and the engine is not running. The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and the engine stops running. John

Howdy folks, TLDR: Faulty ecm runs lift pump without starter bump. also DieselACS out of Hileah FL is a super good company to deal with for ECM issue. I am here to report an interesting finding of a failing ECM that I had not seen here or anywhere before. First and foremost, I was dealing with the dreaded WTS delay, and it finally got to about 8 seconds or more before it kicked on, so I bit the bullet and ordered a exchange ECM from DieselACS out of Hileah FL https://www.dieselacs.com The service was friendly, and the shipping was extremely fast. Ordered Friday, and at my door tuesday morning. I replaced the ECM, and this is where I realized my old ECM failed in 2 seperate ways! My old ECM would have a 8-10 sec WTS delay, and after the WTS light would extinguish, the lift pump would prime. It did this every time, and I realized this isn't normal behavior when I tried to refill the fuel bowl after my ECM replacement, and the new ECM didn't run the lift pump after the WTS turned off. I have to admit, this is when I learned that I it isn't supposed to run the lift pump until the starter bump. Bumped the starter a couple times, calibrated the apps, and the truck runs MINT! hooked up a OBD scanner, and all was well there too. Hope this will help someone in the future. Phil

I've seen another post back in time here where someone lost the entire tone ring into the oil pan and crushed it up. I think you found the problem.

I think you have found the issue. I also strongly think that the noise that you have been hearing is mechanical. I think the noise faded away when you disabled one cylinder and when you ran the engine with the ECM out of the loop because you changed the cadence or resonance of the engine in motion, thus changing the movement behavior of the loose tone ring piece. This would also explain why no code was set for the crankshaft sensor and why the engine performed as it should - not a timing issue. I think your perseverance has paid off. Great job on your part! Post a photo the tone ring. John

HUGE MEGA ULTRA UPDATE: LINK TO VIDEO I have finally found the issue, I think! I had time today to pull the pan off (btw, this can be done on a 2WD without removing the engine, maybe I'll do a write up on it). After removing the pan, I turned the engine over by hand to visually inspect the crankshaft tone ring. Now, I should say that I inspected this ring before but only with an inspection camera through the sensor hole and did not see any issues. The sensor also is not damaged or nicked in anyway to indicate any issues with the ring. The tone ring is a 2 piece ring. There are 5 bolts that hold the ring in place. 3 bolts on the large piece and 2 on the smaller piece of the ring. Well, one of the bolts on the smaller ring has backed out completely and is missing. The other remaining bolt on the smaller ring is bent. I can literally move more than half of the tone ring by hand! You would think that a ring this loose would cause a CEL for CAM/CRANK correlation codes or something, but I guess not. It must be just off enough to cause a wild timing scatter but just on enough to be within "spec" of the CEL condition. I ordered a new (used but in good shape) tone ring and all 5 bolts. I'm going to remove my ring this weekend and install the new one and LOCTITE THE CRAP out of the new bolts. I will post a follow up update the moment I get the truck running! FINGERS CROSSED THIS FIXES MY ISSUE!

SO... for a 2000 2nd Gen, ATF is NOT supposed to be used? is that why my hydroboost is leaking now? I had a line come loose after the engine replacement and on a quick google search specific to a 2000 doge ram, came up with ATF+4 so that is what I've been running since fixing the line.

Weird part... Polling is turned on already for the Cummins swap area. Let me dig a bit on this. Should be available during the first post as a switch for polls.