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Might try that being the dash should be the same but let's see what difference you might get. Oh be sure to allow enough time for the CCD bus to quit talking. True data would be using a oscilloscope to see the bias voltage and any data pulse occurring. Cheap solution to being able to see what is happening. https://a.co/d/eH3Q65C

I was grounding the meter to the dash. Should I use OBD ground?

Here is the weird part the head ground is at the driver side kick panel. Head power is from the PDC fuses. The OBDII port is powered from the IOD fuse in the cab. Then the ground pin uses the same ground at the driver side kick panel. Then all power is funneled through the PDC power lead to the battery. Might check this electrical and possibly fuses and socket of the fuse. Be aware ive seen fuses crack and test good but do weird things.

Battery terminals are new no corrosion. Grounds are all new or look good with good wiring. I measured the circuits from the data link pins 3 and 11. 2.460 and 2.420 is what I got with decreasing voltage of about 0.03 with headlights on/off

Battery terminals condition? Ground wires condition? PDC fuse box weak connection? Voltage only drops because of weak connections or poor wiring. In other word electrical load is exceeding something in the circuit. Connector with corroded pins, oxidized wiring...

I cleared the code and same thing. The voltages are low on both circuits. Also voltage decreases on both circuits when turning on headlights

First, I misinterpreted your numbers. I thought they were readings in the whole number and decimal form. I see now that they are the wire number and a reading in decimal form. Those numbers are good. Yes, these are the relevant wires. The DTC that was set referred to the Idle Validation circuit. As I was typing, you were replying. The wiring circuit looks to be good. Did you re-check Splice #165 for a proper ground (from Pin # 11 on the ECM)? I suspect that the symptoms will resurface. John

Checked all 6 this morning from connector to ECM and .2 for all pins, even 32 which was reading higher yesterday. Wiggled the harness and pretty much stayed the same. Key on terminal #5 am getting 5.1 volts. Checked between the pins too for shorted together wires and nothing. Put everything back together, plugged alternator back in. Cleared codes and did a APPS reset. Drove the truck for 10 minutes zero issues. Couldn’t even get 2 minutes past my house yesterday lol

Hey John, Yeah did test on meter first. I’m gonna try 32 again and wiggle the harness and see if anything happens. Is it worth checking the other 3 pins? Gonna spend some more time in there this morning.

OK I understand. I dont know what can I do. Because remove all again and again.... wahou..... I think I m going to keep the 75hp to control. If I understand the pressure for these injectors must be at 310 bars ? Not less not more?

Looking back on the thread, Mike mentioned this a few days ago “Remember Bosch stock injectors are NOT made as a set. You could have low end of 293 bar you the high end of 327 bar. This can affect idle performance. Ihigh suggest AGAINST using stock injectors. Buy+50 HP from any good injector shop and they are balanced as a set within 2% of flow rate” I still think it’s very likely both sets of your injectors have been mismatched. I learned this the hard way over the past year or so. Had your same stall issue after I ordered and installed a matched set from the same outfit that did Mikes injectors. Pulled them out, had 2 shops pop test them and they ranged from 290 to 330 bar (both shops showed same numbers on each injector). Pulled them back out, send them back and told them specifically what I wanted (310 bar-I believe they set them up at like 308 normally) they sent them back and I had them independently tested again and they were still off-not as much but by then I was mad. Keep in mind this was a “premium” set, not their normal budget injectors. I tossed those and went with the Mach 1 from Flux bc the owners are still directly involved with building their injectors and they’re perfect. For whatever reason my 2000 model is very sensitive to matched/balanced injectors and it sounds like yours is too. This shows my truck stalling after shifted intro reverse. On a slight hill, if the initial fuel input didn’t create enough force to back it up it would just drop and stall. The pics below show the idle RPMS from 2 different tuners. Roughly 750.IMG_6135.mov IMG_6162.mov

We would be happy to meet a member of the forum and help out if we can. Think it over - you can private message anytime you want. I also have been turning wrenches most of my life, and have a shop and plenty of tools should they be needed. Thanks John, my wife has already reserved us a spot at the rv park in town. If time allows I’ll try and message you. Maybe breakfast or lunch. I read the forums here about the AC ripple getting into the circuits. I’m considering a new alternator also this week but haven’t checked locally if new one are available. Don’t like rebuilt units if I can get new ones.

Should not do anything per se being the gear is missing. It should be like a second neutral. I would suggest changing to 50 SAE Transmission fluid. Much thicker lube and should stop the wear like that bearing. I was losing hard facing on the gears.

If you checking just the wiring harness only (APPS and ECM both disconnected), those readings should be around 1 ohm or less. Did you verify for accurate readings by testing your leads on your multi-meter first? John

Did what John said and pinned out between APPS and ECM and got these readings. 25 .2 32 .7 31 .2 All in ohms.

I checked Rock Auto and I see that they are genuine Bosch OEM injectors. I don't think the problem is injectors. You do need to get this figured out as you don't want your wife to have to spend too much time in a ravine with an old Beetle. John

My wife and I will be returning from a local camping trip on Friday, June 6. If your trip to Baker City will put you here after June 6th, you are invited to our house and you could stay in a private camp site with water and electrical hookups. You could then tour the areas that you want to see at your leisure. We would be happy to meet a member of the forum and help out if we can. Think it over - you can private message anytime you want. I also have been turning wrenches most of my life, and have a shop and plenty of tools should they be needed. John

Do you know what would happen if you try to shift into the now-missing 5th? Could anything bad happen?

Yes, I bought bosch on Rockauto Here's what I did today. First, I changed the complete TPS. Then I tested the continuity of the TPS cables, from the VP 44 to the ECM. Then I changed the lift pump. In the end, it stalls after a long time while it's running. I noticed later, maybe it's a dream, that it stalls on a downhill slope. If I drive in neutral and accelerate slightly from 750 to 1200 rpm, it stalls as if it's drowning in diesel or out of diesel. I restart it, it restarts... I still have these small diesel leaks between the connections of injection lines 1, 3, 4, 5 and the tubes. I tried to loosen and tighten, at the time there is nothing, it appears after acceleration I think. Theseare that I bought on rockauto : :BOSCH 0432193630 These are the same number that I had pull to change them All the continuity tests I've done are good. I forgot to mention that I even tested the lift pump cable, and it's good.... It's so confusing... I dont know if the ecm could be the problem or if these are these small leaks, or if it could be the return line on the tee....

They are stock OEM injectors - correct? John

Maybe you re right. But I've changed them 2 times. One was rebuilt to give me 75 more hp. The others are new Boschs that I bought from RockAuto.

Yeah i plan on ditching all this quick connect junk and create a write up on where to find what. I might request @dieselautopower or another vendor to create a kit for us to ditch the junk fittings.

It should work just remember that 5th gear is MISSING. I totally get what you are saying just don't need the bad bearing and gear banging around. Yes it should work just be aware.

P1688 and P1689 codes show possibly a dirt power and possibly high fuel heat. Yeah i know there is a code for that but I've only seen 1 person ever report the code. Dirty power with lots of AC ripple can create the heat in the PSG circuits. For sure you need to look towards vendors that sell certified Bosch pumps to be sure to get anew PSG that has been on the test stand for 3 hours to be flashed. There are lots of cheaper pumps but used PSG and no calibration done P1688 basically the software on the PSG no longer correct. Technically the VP44 should be capable of starting and idling without a ECM. Software issue for sure. P1689 code can be truly a communication error cause from CANBus header being damaged. Double check the fuel pump relay to be sure it's hitting power.

IBMobile, your lucky, only four days. Took me four weeks to get this one from Industrial Injection last year.