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https://www.facebook.com/share/p/16ordx3xH9/ Yeah i returned to Facebook and started posting to share with my local community.

The only code is the lift pump code and the oil pressure sensor code for the faulty oil pressure sensor ( the lift pump code has been there for years. I have an in tank factory conversion that i bypassed for my raptor lift pump, so the plug is disconnected causing the code)

Let me think on this more. I'll sleep on this and see if I can figure another test to get a clue. Oh. How about error codes? Still the same?

UPDATE Got the wiring harness back in the truck! While I was in there, I also did the WT mod: Alternator power wire is now routed to the passenger side battery The ground splice near the VP has been removed, properly soldered, and terminated on the backside of the timing cover case All good on that front. Now the new issue: Fired up the truck and it’s definitely misfiring — both at idle and under throttle No codes thrown (verified with a good scan tool) The only code-related issue is the ABS light, which wasn't on before When I press the pedal to the floor, it’s slow to rev and misfiring badly and smoking. Ran out of daylight to dig deeper, but that’s where things stand for now. On a positive note: When the idle randomly smooths out, the knock disappears and the truck idles great — so I think I’m slowly getting somewhere!

Today I was out in the yard running the little skid steer, loading bricks and concrete. Just getting things sorted out of the dirt is taking the most time. I just found the couch, which is pretty flat and crushed. Finding items from Marks' living room, I found the new but beaten network hub, which was less than half a year old. At about noon, it got pretty hot here, so we abandoned the front yard and came in. Still I've gotta give a huge amount of love for the Dischinger Family that continues to allow us the use of the skid steer. I made some pretty basic cheeseburgers for lunch. I don't know why... I was in my grey scrubs and grabbed my phone, went out, and just recorded a video and uploaded it to Mopar1973Man TikTok explaining I'm back but different from my cancer. Then, to flip the camera around and show off the work we managed to get done cleaning up the mess of a shop being smeared across the yard. Tiktok & YouTube have the video on my Mopar1973Man Accounts. Yeah I'm trying to let people know I'm back and things are starting to settle down now my health really isn't changing much right now but I have issues yet. I got busy trying to organize a bathroom between @Tweety Bird and myself. Crazy when there are two of us who do makeup work in the bathroom. There is a fairly large counter area for all of our makeup stuff. Yeah, I go into my little corner and start unloading my travel bag since I'm home for now and not traveling anywhere for now. Amazing how much black eyeshadow powder is on the mirror and even the counter. Time to clean it up. That's a hobby I enjoy is my makeup artistry with my character Titanium. I'll continue to post this in his blog area.

Out here there is only NAPA. No other part stores for miles. No autozone or similar. When the filter will not hold to the lid there is a problem.

NAPA doesn't make that filter. It's a reboxed Wix filter. NAPA adds the prefix FIL and drops the first number, in this case it's the first 3. NAPA gold Fuel Filter Part #: FIL 3585XE WIX® 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 - Fuel Filter Manufacturer #33585XE

About to be in business much better than before.. got the drag link in and picture before hand, I gained a bit closer to center on the pitman arm. The old arm was also bent! Posting pics now Left is old one

So, you are saying that the TIRES were pointed straight ahead and you counted the maximum turns of the steering wheel (about 4 1/4 turns stop to stop) and you centered the steering wheel (2 1/8 turns back to center from either stop)? And, after doing this, the drag link does not align with the Pitman arm? This tells me that the steering wheel is not centered in the steering box. If it is centered, the steering wheel can only be turned approximately 2 1/8 turns each way with the drag link disconnected. In fact, it seems like the steering wheel is a full turn off-center. Not sure what you expect to gain here since the Pitman arm is indexed to the sector shaft. The drag link should not make contact with anything. You will need to address this. There are mechanical steering stops located on the lower front side of each end of the axle housing. When your situation is corrected, your steering to full left and full right will contact these stops. John

Weird. As far as I know, the pitman arm and the input shaft can't be moved because they are keyed in one position. Are you sure you are at the true center of the steering box? Was the gear and rack messed with inside the steering box?

Be aware, I just found out the new filter I picked up this morning is defective. How? If you pull the old filter off the lid, it typically takes some force to pull the filter from the lid. Now, the new filter head that fits into the filter lid is too small and will fall out when just inverting the lid to install. Do not use these filters, you could be stuck digging the filter out of the filter can. I had pulled the last two filters they had to try them all them are too small. Now I even check my local repair shop in Riggins, ID and they have the same issue with the filters too. Just a heads up warning. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL3585XE?srsltid=AfmBOor2fo7JREB0ssAAUaSx9TJkw3XmEsldEQTuiajjlhuPE-pqkqsb

Probably 5 or less MPH, turning left but going into the straight if a drive thru, hit the concrete cylinder pedestal thing straight on. Steering wheel was probably closer to being straight. T style conversion was done myself. Shop aligned everything and it drives straight now, just still not having for left lock to how it should be. When I tried to center it with the linkage undone and steering box straight I couldn’t get the drag link in. About to take the pitman arm off now and reinstall. The end of the drag link near where it connects to the tie rod does contact the end links now on full right, but I believe that’s because I’m able to go like 3 full turns to the right from center yet only 1 1/2 turns to the left before I hit lock

Something doesn't seem right here. Lots more questions. Can you give more detail about the event (forward speed, position of the steering wheel when contact was made)? Did you perform the T-style steering conversion yourself? Did you perform the alignment yourself? Did you ensure that the steering gear box was centered and tires were in the straight ahead position BEFORE you connected the drag link to the Pitman arm? Typically the Pitman arm is indexed in a manner that would allow for four different directions of installing (90° apart). That doesn't mean that yours is this way. Have you checked that your new steering linkage is not binding on something when you steer to the left? John

@Tractorman appreciate the reply! So I hit the pedestal with the passenger front tire and had lost the left turn radius then. Figured my tie rods were just bent but still had the issue after the alignment and new T style tie rods. I’m thinking the sector shaft on the box is fine but maybe the force moved the pitman arm? I feel that’s the only thing (besides the box) that could have gotten messed up and causing the lack of left turn radius. I’ll go under there today and pull the arm off and see if it’s damaged and then when putting back on ensure I’m in the middle for when I put the drag link back on. Edit: yes the steering wheel is currently straight after the alignment Uploaded some pics. I think it’s even going farther than what it should be able to do when going right. Pitman arm definitely needs to be turned I’m assuming. The front pics are from lock to lock basically (without someone in the cab holding it after it goes back the other way slightly.)

Which tire was involved with the "bumped into a concrete pedestal thing?" It would take some serious force to strip the spines on the Pitman arm / sector shaft. Personally, I wouldn't drive the truck until the steering issue is figured out. Possibly, the Pitman arm is bent. Diagnosing this problem is going to be a bit more difficult since you swapped to the T type steering before you fixed the steering problem. Is the steering wheel centered when driving straight down the road? I would put the front end of the truck on jack stands and remove the front tires. Verify that the steering spindle "stops" contact the left and right axle "stops". If steering to one direction does not reach the "stop", then the steering gearbox can be over stressed on hard turns in that direction. If either steering "stop" cannot be reached, then something is still bent, or the steering gear box is no longer centered on the steering linkage after you did the steering conversion. John

Hey all, back again! So a few weeks ago, accidentally bumped into a concrete pedestal thing. Toe was knocked out badly and lost like 30-40% of my left turn radius at lock. Figured I bent tie rods and bought a T style kid. Got everything bolted up and aligned at the shop and I still have the left turn radius issue. I’m thinking maybe the force of that bump moved my pitman arm on the splines? And not it’s off? Without the drag link connected I have the standard 4 or 4.5 (whatever redhead steering gear is) turns from lock to lock. Trying to get some ideas as I have to tow Wednesday and would like maximum steering to the left beforehand! lol. Hoping maybe the pitman arm just got moved somehow but am open to other things to check that I may be able to fix quickly today.

Mark iand Hachi (his dog) is in my basement bedroom. We are all working together to get the mess cleaned up. Difficult at best working with a broken set of sockets and wrenches. I'll be doing videos soon and posting more to YouTube and Tiktok.

no movement in either direction on the currently installed turbo... I mean for 450k miles it is TIGHT!!!! but I also don't do stupid stuff like over boosting.. I'll take the "new" turbo out and see if my brain is just playing with my emotions.

Turbo check Try pulling and pushing the shaft like an old-school headlight switch. Any movement is an instant fail! It's possible for oil to be leaking because the shaft is moving. Then, if you can move the compressor wheel like a joystick, and the wheel should never touch the housing, this is a fail also. Turbine housing can be clocked by the four bolts and loosened, removed, and clocked correctly for your application. Then the compressor might have a large snap ring; you can release the compressor housing and clock accordingly.

SO I just received the "reman" turbo... the geometry is all wrong... it came from A Premiere. I know you can adjust angles a bit... but literally the drain is on the "top" and the oil feed is on the "bottom" not sure you can turn them 180 degrees.

is there a possibility the oil is going straight out the exhaust side of the turbo? I mean my main concern was that my oil loss was FROM the turbo(and could get worse)... otherwise my turbo is TIGHT...and I see no reason to replace it. I'm waiting on the new turbo to arrive (today) and will break the rest exhaust side down on Saturday to see if there is oil there. What size should the nuts be? If it is burning oil it would make me sad but that isn't my concern, DFC Diesel has already stated they will cover under warranty if that is the case.

Dropped off my rear bumper this weekend and talked to my guy "Tony" about what's going on. He is going to be at the stage quickly to send off for blasting. He's done a phenominal job in cleaning up the things I couldn't do (making the door skins crown properly, etc). He said I did a good job in most of what I did and that is made it easier for him in the long run compared to some other jobs he's done. So, in short, another quick trip out to drill a few holes in the bed frame here in the next 2 weeks and I should be well on the way to paint soon. I just need to pick some colors!

I just saw this thread this evening. I'm sorry for not seeing it sooner 😔 Is Mark doing alright now? Mike, how are things at your place now? Doug

It doesn't look like there is any oil in the turbo section. You might pull the turbo off quickly. Now, inspect the ports on the turbo mount for oil in the manifold runners. If you can plug the oil supply temporarily, you could start the engine and check to see if any oil or smoke comes from the manifold. Optimal would be to pull the manifold off and look into each port for oil residue. You could use a bit of cardboard to hold in front of the ports and check for oil splatter out of each port. Don't rev the engine! Oh yeah, grab a die and chase those studs, and then buy a few stainless steel nuts, at least they will not rust, and make sure to anti-seize those good!