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I don't know if he did the WT mod fully, he rerouted a ground wire that runs with the alternator wire that runs across the front of the engine and behind the alternator and ran it across the top of the front radiator support .

@TCMagnum, Good job determining that that it is actually downshifting to 3rd gear. I don't think you have an AC noise issue, although performing the W-T ground reference mod would be a good idea, if you haven't done that already. Usually, AC noise affects torque converter lockup stability which is the problem most people have. When the transmission does an unwanted downshift, does the torque converter lock up, or does it stay unlocked? What about the code - P0122 Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too Low, is it still there? If it is, I would get that cleared up first. - John

WT mod should be done in full first. I don’t have much troubleshooting experience with autos as I have the 6 spd but from what I understand a lot of issues are solved when the mod is done. At least you can rule that out.

I said i'd have some questions about my dads truck so here goes... 2001 Ram 2500 24 valve, 47RE automatic. Transmission was rebuilt years ago before he had the truck. not sure what all was done to it specifically. It will randomly kick out of Overdrive sometimes cruising around 55mph, sometimes cruising at 60/65mph. It will kick in and out of overdrive 2 or 3 times in a row and then go back in and hold. When he first described the problem to me i wasn't sure if it was O/D or Lock up giving an issue.. So i did the first test in the Alternator noise thread about isolating the alternator by removing the field wires and removing the 140 amp fuse in the box, went for a drive and the problem persisted and i was able to see that when it drops out it goes from cruising at around 18-1900 rpm at 55mph to 23-2400rpm at 55mph, so at this point i was certain it was Overdrive dropping out and not TC lockup. Now my next question is he has a P0122 'A' code for APPS sensor, could this have an affect like that? We've done that APPS reset procedure for the heck of it and it had no change on the problem. I'm not sure if the APPS has any play into transmission shift control or not.

Trouth be told haven't been on any of my bikes in around 2 yr. But 6 mo. Ago hat new ankle put in the weather in georgia is in 70s , have the new fuel filter for the ultra . I'm thinking it's time to ride .

That thing was smoked! Should run like a top now.

Well it’s repaired and being mailed back to John tomorrow. Here’s what they emailed me saying what they did. They didn’t come up with a cause. What a nightmare this has been. “Problem Description and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs): P0606, P0113, P0118, P0121, and P0123 ECM Tests Results and Faults Found: • No Communication to Lift Pump • Lift Pump and APP Circuit in Short • Cold Solder Joints on CPU • No 5v Reference for Sensors • No 9.5v Reference for Lift Pump • Bad Wait to Start Light • P0606 Code Present ECM Repair Completed: • Replaced APP (Accelerator Pedal Position) Circuit. Please keep in mind this Circuit shares a Ground Circuit with additional Sensors and any one of them could be in Short (MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor, Camshaft Sensor, Water in Fuel Sensor, Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, Intake Air Temp Sensor and Oil Pressure Sensor. Please see the attached diagram.) • Replaced Lift Pump Circuit and Flash Chip • Replaced 5 Volt Driver and 9.5 Volt Driver • Resoldered CPU and 50 Pins • Updated Software • Replaced Wait to Start Light Circuit • Removed P0606 Code (Prior to installing the Rebuilt or Remanufactured ECU, you must replace both Batteries, Terminals, and clean ALL Grounds. Failure to do so will result in the P0600 Code returning and voiding your Warranty.) PCM Tests Results and Faults Found: • Cold solder joints (on CPU, Flash Chip, and Noise Filters) • Faulty Capacitors • Low Volt Reference PCM Repairs Completed: • Replaced Capacitors (220uf 35v Capacitors (x3)) • Resoldered Noise Filters, CPU, and INTEL FLASH CHIP”

Oof 16” tires… Cant run 3rd Gen brakes with those.

If y'all would like to watch the entire rebuild of this Dana 80, my builder just got it edited and you can watch it on Facebook or YouTube. Just search Stratemann Automotive. Bring some popcorn you gonna need it.

The exhaust on mine was on there when I bought it about 5ish years ago. So far it's holding up against the elements pretty well. It's a 4" from the turbo back via a 3" to 4" adapter of some kind right on the turbo. It has 2 straight through type mufflers (think old school cherry bomb type) and it's not really that loud. It sounds pretty good actually when I'm towing one of the 10k lbs fifth wheels. She has a nice growl to it. Only downside is where the pipe goes over the rear axle it is in the way to mount the spare tire in the oem location under the truck so it rides in the bed under the tool box.

Not a problem and your welcome always here to support the Cummins family.

Give Module masters a call in Moscow Idaho. https://mopar1973man.com/vendor.htm/vendor/module-master-r8/

I had a feeling that you would go back to the first running board after you had better results with the second running board. That's not "OCD" - that's a "good decision"! - John

I believe I've figured out what fbfs culprit is in this problem. I'm fairly certain now after chatting on another forum and doing some checking/testing, that my instrument cluster is causing the problem. What place is recommended in fixing these clusters?

My OCD decided I needed to redo the first running board to be "nicer"....so I did! And I started to trim the grill bars so they fit right by the intercooler.

Yes sir it was driving me crazy as well, thanks for the phone calls and your help!

Right on. I thought it was weird.

We were right, the harness itself was wired incorrectly. IAT and ECT plugs reversed. New harness arrived and problem solved! 3 and 6 both work with correct values displayed.

Welcome to the site

Delayed due to snow storm. Setup for the 15th.

Good check up?

Good to know. I’ll readjust it tomorrow.

You're welcome. I think you set your toe-in a bit aggressive. You will likely wear the outside edge of the front tires and the truck won't handle as well as it should, especially going into and coming out of curves. With the Y type steering linkage, the toe-in should very slightly inward - no more than 1/16th inch. With T-type steering the recommendation is zero toe-in. It appears that you have the Y-type steering. Good job marking the jam nut positions. - John

Got it put in today. It’s pretty hefty. It has a polyurethane bushing. Changed out the drivers tie rod I’ve had in the garage for about a year while I was down there. Truck seems to handle better. Glad I got it done. Did a driveway alignment. 1/4” toe in. Centered the axle. Thanks again @Tractorman

I didn't bother with any of it. I just ordered a trans online, came out of Tennessee I think. This was like 5-6 years ago. Bad trans is just sitting around the acreage.