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Any updates on this fan and where to get it and how much? Very interested yet.

Tractor man is right. I'm up here in the frozen north and cold winter days will cause a few things to happen. IAT below 80℉ by design on the ECM will add about 4 degree advancement. This is why my high idle kit with the IAT fooler was created so you can hold the timing from shifting sharply with cold air which in turn reduces the MPG's. Too cold will bring down MPG's. I found that hotter coolant say running a 200℉ thermostat 6.7L Cummins will improve MPG performance providing the added warmth to the engine for cold winters. I end up covering my grill over to block air flow to my intercooler to keep IAT temp up in the bottom end at 70 to 80℉ on a -30℉ winter day. Racing yes you need a intercooler and keep your temps in check, and Cold air and cooler coolant is great for racing power. But... MPG is completely flipped backwards. Warmer air is best 80 to 140℉ promote good ignition. Coolant temperature increased to 205 to 210℉ will add +10℉ roughly to the IAT temperature and will keep the timing more productive. I typically run a fairly advanced tune for empty running. Then towing I retard the timing and it build boost quick and hard enough to fry the rear tires on a 7% grade. Optimally you can run about 20° BTDC @ 2000 RPM and its sweet spot for the most part. This will vary depending on pop pressure of the injectors so you may need to adjust timing to fit the set up. Running high pop pressure gives a cleaner bottom end and retards about 1 degree for my 320 bar injectors. Do not use cetane boosters! Lower the cetane more BTU's per gallon. Example on the grid is my locally Cennex Diesel fuel when I looked up their specs. 2 cycle oil is one of the few additives that does not have cetane booster and then if your using snowmobile 2 cycle oil the reduced pour point of the 2 cycle oil (-50°F pour point) that pour point depressant will help with gelling issues of the diesel fuel. 506k miles on Beast and still going! Then final Ratio another MPG killer. versized tires typically kill the MPG in a few ways. (Optimal ratio for MPGs - 3.73) Rotational mass wider and heavier tires require more power. Larger tires will reduce the ratio number of the axle. My truck came with 265/75 R16 tires. I changed from that to 245/75 R16 tires like the door panel sticker shows. This shifted my final ratio from 3.55:1 to 3.69:1 and now increased torque output and reduced engine load by a bunch. Cruising at even 80 MPH @ 2450 RPMs no sweat! I've done well over 24 to 26 MPG on the interstate.

@Honestbest333, everything you posted about charge air is true, but not necessarily relevant for what you are trying to accomplish. You stated, "I decided to take it to the next level and do everything possible to get 30 MPG when empty at 65 mph." Three key phrases here - "30 mpg", "when empty", and "at 65 mph". Under these conditions, your engine is going to be producing very little boost, thus very little charge air heating. Consequently, light engine load, along with lower engine rpm and a stock intercooler, will easily bring the charge air temperature back to ambient air temperature efficiently - even on a 85°F day. At this point the engine is virtually performing as a naturally aspirated engine and there are more than enough oxygen molecules available for the power being produced. I think what @Mopar1973Man is alluding to is when you are driving your truck on days when the ambient temperature is 50°F, or 30°F, or 5°F. There are many such days during the winter months. Since your diesel engine does not have a throttle plate (like in a gasoline engine), every intake stroke brings in a full charge of very cold air at low ambient air temperatures. There will likely be less efficient combustion under light engine load in this circumstance. This is where your charge air intercooler can be your enemy. Once you begin working your engine, such as in towing a 15,000 lb gross combined weight, then everything about cooling the charge air before entering the combustion chamber for better fuel efficiency is relevant - even at lower ambient air temperatures. However, this is not where you are going to achieve 30 mpg, as you well know. John

Thank you for all the information above! I'm learning a lot. Grok AI states: "Why cooler charge air helps a turbo diesel... Turbo diesels compress air, which heats it (often to 250–300°F+ under load). An intercooler cools that air before it reaches the engine. Cooler air is denser, so it packs more oxygen molecules into the same volume. That denser charge improves combustion efficiency: the engine can produce the needed power with less fuel (or more power from the same fuel). Sources commonly cite roughly a 1% density/power gain per ~10°F drop in charge-air temperature, along with corresponding drops in exhaust gas temperature (EGT). A 20°F cooler charge is a meaningful difference (roughly 2–3% denser under typical conditions via the ideal-gas relationship). Practical results align with the physics. Upgraded intercoolers on diesel trucks (Cummins, Duramax, Power Stroke, etc.) are frequently reported to improve fuel economy in the 2–5% range (sometimes more with supporting tuning), while also cutting EGTs and improving sustained power under load or towing. Banks and others explicitly list better fuel economy as a benefit of larger, well-designed charge-air coolers."

Curious what about them? I want to understand what part of it that sucks?

When the Website Runs Out of Seats: Diagnosing a Slow Site Like a Sick DieselTonight the site went down on me. Anyone who has chased a Cummins that "runs fine, then doesn't" knows the feeling. Everything looked healthy, but something was wrong. How I Caught It: The Dash GaugesI didn't find out because a member emailed me. I found out because of the gauges. I run Linux on my desktop, and I use a little monitoring panel called Conky that sits right on my screen and shows the health of the website server around the clock: CPU load, memory, swap, disk, uptime, whether the site is answering, even how many days are left on the security certificate. It's the same idea as a dash full of gauges in a truck. You don't have to go looking for trouble, because the needle moves before the engine quits. Tonight the panel showed the site flip to DOWN, and a quick look at the load told me the server was struggling to keep up. That early warning is the reason I was already digging in before it turned into a long outage. If you run your own site, I can't recommend a simple monitor like this enough. The SymptomsLoad on the server spiked to 17 on an 8-core machine, but the CPU was only about 20% busy. That's like a truck with the tach pegged and no power at the wheels. Then the site stopped answering. Ruling Things Out, One at a TimeLike any diesel diagnosis, I worked down the list: Bot flood? A crawler was hitting hard, but its traffic was steady all day and silent during the spike. Not guilty. Disk or memory? No disk waiting, and swap wasn't thrashing. Not guilty. Mail server? Quiet. Not guilty. DNS or SSL settings? Both checked out clean. The ClueTiming a single page request showed the connection opened instantly, then sat for 4 to 8 seconds before the secure handshake finished, and the page came right back after that. That's a queue problem, not a power problem. Something was making visitors wait in line. The AnswerThe Apache error log had been shouting about it the whole time: "scoreboard is full, not at MaxRequestWorkers. Increase ServerLimit." Apache keeps a fixed number of seats for worker processes, and mine was set to 8. When a burst of visitors and bots filled every seat, new connections were accepted but had to stand in the aisle until someone left. The log showed it had been creeping up all week, and it got bad today. The FixI doubled the seating, from 8 to 16 worker processes and from 200 to 400 total connections. One gotcha: Apache ignores a change like this on a gentle reload, so it takes a full restart. My restart hung for 90 seconds because the old Apache wouldn't shut down, so I also shortened the stop timeout to 20 seconds so it can't hang that long again. The LessonHigh load with low CPU means something is waiting, not working. Don't guess. Check one thing at a time, and read the logs, because the answer was sitting in the error log the whole time. And keep a gauge where you can see it, because the earlier you catch a problem, the cheaper it is to fix.

Hows the hopping getting going. My organic 13" hd hops about like stock clutch. Was thinking about trying south bend. I have no faith in the valair or even if its the clutch as . advertised. No valair markings anywhere on clutch or flywheel. Only thing i do know is it meausures 13" I would much rather a 47re so maybe its just me. These manuals suck to trive 4500 5600 and g56 all suck

Oh my Gwad @Doubletrouble you where my light at the end of the tunnel some days. Just feeling so sick and nasty. Still in all this is what life has handed me and now trying to step forward into the future of what I can do. I thank you friend for being there listening to this freak - freak out. I'm doing the best I can for right now. The only thing I can do now is pick up the pieces of everything and keep stepping forward.

That would be a problem that would make your final ratio too tall andf hurt MPG's. Optimally I've found is being between 3.55 to 3.73 for final ratio after tires are figured in. Like myself I dropped the 265/75R16 and then swapped in the 245/75R16 which changed my final ratio to 3.69:1 at the tires this produces way better torque and pulling power. My out right best was crossing all of Washington state from Seattle WA. to Lewiston ID was 300 miles I barely burned a quarter tank. Optimally the final ratio should be kept bewtween 3.55 to 3.73 for what you are doing with towing. Pay attention rotational mass counts too so heavier tire will hurt your MPG number quick! Super simple just build a advanced tune on the Quadzilla I can unwind a turbo really easy. Retard adds boost to the power number. It's a balancing act to get the power out of it. The other tidbit I'm running nothing more than a stock HX35W and still getting mid 20's easy. HX35/40 Hybrid turbo (60/60/12) that did really good for MPG being it was just a bit heavier for wheel and boost ran at near zero till 60 MPH. More boost more fuel unlocked and boost needs to be kept LOW! Actually warmer air is best. IAT of 80 to 140℉ is best! Cooler than 60℉ actually reduces MPG. Trick. I'm running 7 x 0.010 150 HP DAP injectors now and there is a twist in mine I'm running 320 bar not stock 310, 305 or 300 like some injectors. You have to figure that into your tuning. For every 10 bar you change is going to advance 1 degree or retard one degree. So 320 bar made me 1 degree retarded. Quadzilla is set up for fairly retarded tune for towing that way boost builds quick and easy. Advanced timing you can run when your empty.

Yup that would be awesome setup to have two bungs added to the PTO cover and then run the cooler line forward to a small cooler and the filter. That would be a bulletproof mod really.

Don't forget filtration on the cooler idea.

Ill be honest, I had to Google Jimmy Hoffa 🤣 It would have been cool to have all of it already, but I can safely assert my new opinion that aftermarket is the way to go!

It would be easier to find Jimmy Hoffa than parts for an old HI Line system in these trucks. Good quality aftermarket accessories is the way to go.

You listed "19.5 tires". Do you mean 19.5 wheels? If so, that could be an issue, wheel/tire combos like that create a lot of rolling resistance. @Mopar1973Man has done a lot of work with his 2001 2500 in the way of hyper mileage. Hopefully he will see this and chime in. @Titanium , oops. Tagged your "old name" Old habit lol

It has been a ride for sure. I've been with you through the second bought of cancer mostly as just a friend to talk to when needed, sounding board, even just someone to listen. I'm glad to see you've made it this far and I and many others understand the changes that have to be made. I am happy that you will keep all this information available to view. This site has helped me tremendously over the years! Moving forward I will do my best to put together articles in the future to help add to the wealth of information that's already here. I to am grateful that you met Suzanna, someone to be there when you need them and you for her in the same way. I'm really happy for you both! Someday we will all meet in person! R.I.P Mopar1973man / Welcome Titanium

I recently picked up a 98.5 2500 2x4 short bed that had some money thrown at. I decided to take it to the next level and do everything possible to get 30 MPG when empty at 65 mph. I live in a 5th wheel camper and travel for a living, so diesel costs add up! Please give me your best ideas to improve MPG. Here is what I've done so far. Front End Aerodynamics on the grill & lower bumper shroud & tonneau cover ( Considering a belly pan underneath ) RV 275 Injectors with 7 holes ( Are there better injectors out there for economy ? ) 19.5" rims running 245/70 tires that leave me at about 1750 RPM @ 65 mph with 3.55 gears ( Will experiment with smaller stock for less rolling resistance ) Quadzilla with an economy tune ( Hoping to get a custom tune when all hardware is done ) 205 degree thermostat ( higher temp leads to more complete combustion ) I have an upgraded radiator for pulling Borg Warner K27 turbo 60/70/18 ( The 18 cm^2 exhaust outlet volume is 50% larger than a stock HX35 at 12cm^2 thus reducing back pressure significantly, PDD states that "fat stock like turbos" are known as mileage kings ) AFE Bladerunner GT Series intercooler 3" thick ( denser air burns fuel more completely ) Full Lock Up Torque Converter 15" Dual Electric Fans ( Stock fan clutch eats 20+ horsepower according to some estimates ) I'm looking for a used gear vendors overdrive as that would get me to 1500 RPM @ 65 Mph ( higher RPMs = Additional fuel burn. Looking to cruise around 1500 RPM's when EMPTY to keep boost near ZERO. ) What ideas do you have ?

Thank you sir. I'm still doing every day one step at a time slow right now but working on getting the site tuned up and more info flowing soon.