All Activity

Oh right on!! Well that answers that question, hope the A/C is working good in the camper. Hot mofo down here today

Funny that name pops up. Im parked in his yard right now. Be down here for the rest of this week.

Oh for sure, be nice too catch up. Talk about the idaho turbo diesel days! Is even a thing anymore? Is muddy still around??

I drove the truck last night to get it up to temp and I used the laser thermometer to measure the temps at each cylinder exhaust port. They were very consistent 1 and 6 were 202 and 203. 2 and 5 about 214 3 and 4 were 228 and 232 respectively

I think I have checked the connector very thoroughly. I even tried to use a pick to dimple the female side of the pins on the connector to make them tighter.

I tend to agree with you here. Have you closely inspected the wiring connector to the VP44 for any damaged, corroded, or pushed back pins? I think you have a wiring problem - either with grounds or a poor connection with a pinched wire, pushed back pins, corrosion, etc. John

Interesting, I will check the live data. Perhaps I misunderstood but wouldn't the hotwire test to the VP prove that injectors, pump, and fuel supply are ok?

Injectors could be a cause of misfiring. Injectors are only good for about 100k miles typically. As Injectors wear it increase timing advancement for every 10 bar drop is about 1 degree advancement. My factory injectors at 150k miles were about 260 bar. From 310 bar that at least 5 degrees. Now simple check look at a live data tool and see if it idling at 800 RPM and Engine Load is non zero number. This would show the injectors are wore out badly if the idling above 800 RPM and 0% engine load. This is due to the ECM attempting to cut fuel to zero to get it to idle down to 800 RPM but can't be done with wore out injectors.

I have only had the truck for about 5k miles but the current mileage is 224K

Hey we might have to meet up. Im currently hiding in Parma ID so the wife can do some medical appointments.

Been on the road the last week. My last VP44 more or less fell on its face with a P1689 code. Just got it replaced. As for your case how many miles on your correct injectors?

I forgot to mention that I did check and adjust the apps voltage early on in the diagnosis. I was contemplating monitoring the APPS input at the ecm for fluctuation. I did monitor it in live data on my scanner and it shows steady "idle" state.

I would love to see the inside of the module!

Hi it was the ecm that was at fault I replaced it with a different unit and it fixed the truck, I had the old unit tested a few times and was told nothing wrong with it, I chased that fault for months

A long post with lots of detail is much better than a short post with little detail. Many sensors (as well as the VP44) ground through the ECM - you can see this in the wiring diagram photo below (terminal #11 and #49 on the ECM). Note that Splice #168 (difficult to read, near terminal #49) is also a ground. When the engine has the rough idle, can you tell if all cylinders are affected, or just one cylinder? Have you checked the mechanical idle stop condition - loose, out of adjustment, etc? I would expect a code, but not necessarily. The APPS is a closed loop system with the ECM and there is an idle validation switch inside the APPS. It is possible that if the APPS adjustment is marginal, the ECM may not see the idle validation switch signal (the ECM controls idle). I wouldn't rule out wiring issues or ground issues at this point. Multi-pin connectors with poor connections can be difficult to find. Performing "wiggle tests" while checking continuity or voltage can help diagnose. It usually works best with two people performing the tests - one doing the wiggle test and the other holding the multi-meter connections steady. John

First I am going to apologize for the length of this post but I want you to have all of the details. We purchased a used 02 24v 3500 dually just about a year ago. It had been sitting so we got it going and just did the basic services, fluids etc. my son drove it about a month and in mid September it developed a weird rough idle after warming up but no other drivability issues. Changed both fuel filters with napa units and no change about a week later the frame broke in half from rust so we parked it. Fast forward to January 26, cab and bed removed, new frame from down south, blasted and painted. truck goes all back together with all new parts, brake lines, fuel lines, shocks, bushings, all frame wiring cleaned up etc. Drivetrain was cleaned up while it was out and any leaks addressed etc, new tires, really fun winter project for us. Mid March, trucks back on the road. Rough idle was gone after we put truck back together. Assumed it was a bad connection, dirty ground, terminal etc. After about 800 miles it comes back so we really start digging in. At this point the truck has never had a code other than we first got it had no communication with Inj pump and turning on headlights would kill motor. That was corrected by redoing the grounds behind the drivers headlight. So no codes and rough idle after warm up Change ECT for good measure cleaned all grounds again Batteries and terminals were all new with rebuild blue chip diesel hot wire test on pump after truck is up to 180 and idling poorly returns truck to smooth perfect idle. this tells me pump, injectors, and fuel delivery are not a culprit truck has airdog pump and Edge monitor with Fuel pressure gauge always steady at 17psi performed WT ground mods remove fuel pump relay to swap with horn and note some green corrosion on main terminals open up PDC and removed 30 and 87 terminals. cleaned thoroughly and reinstalled put brand new fuse in fusebox for feed to fuel pump relay double checked all grounds behind headlight while battery was out for the pdc access Truck runs great, assume all is well. my son drives the truck daily for about a month. 1000 miles or so, towing, etc After a couple day rainy stretch issue comes back. my son claimed he opened underhood fuse box and pushed on fuel pump relay, checked oil, and when he started truck it was fine again. next day rough idle is back again I opened the fusebox and tried messing with relay and then swapping it back with horn, no change. This was about a month ago, still no codes of any kind or any other driveability issues other than idle Since then I have opened the pdc and removed all the fuel pump relay terminals again and cleaned them even though they looked perfect. tested pin 6 and 7 wires from pdc to vp44 no issues, added extra power and ground wires for testing, no change. visually inspected all other wires in pdc for damage and found none, no presence of rodents etc Completely removed EDGE at various times in troubleshooting with no change. sent ecm out for testing and repair to keyworks in Virginia, no issue was found but I did have him follow through with the rebuild, change common failure parts etc. ecm reinstalled and no change in running. performed PCM ground mod with no change. Tested all sensor circuits, 2 and 3 wire. good 5v reference to all tried unplugging one sensor at time with no changes. I did get appropriate codes for each sensor when it was unplugged The only sensor I never unplugged was the cam sensor under the pump inspected all the loom on the harness and didn't see any issues, chafing etc used contact cleaner on connections at pcm, and the two high up on the firewall, also any other connections or sensors I opened one interesting thing to note, the black with a blue trace wire at each sensor is listed as the sensor ground from ecm, this wire has continuity to battery ground at each sensor but that goes away once the ecm harness is disconnected. Is this normal? I always thought sensor ground and body ground were different? Does the ECM connect body ground to the sensor ground pin internally? I also put my meter from sensor ground at ect to battery ground and thoroughly wiggled the whole harness to see if continuity beep stopped. It di not stop Until i removed ecm plug I am at the end of my list of things to try. Anybody got any ideas lol? We love the truck and just want it back to normal.

Any updates on the diagnosis Mopar dude? I found this thread rather interesting and loved reading all the good tips

I just installed a brand-new actuator on the 2016 Ram 2500 Laramie CCSB 4x4 I got a week and half ago. It had the U010C code and installing the new actuator and then using alfaobd to calibrate it, worked great! I don't have a core charge for it, so I could open it up and look for any telltale signs of damage.

Hello all, long time member circa 2012. Been awhile since I've been on here. Sold my old 2nd gen back in 2014, got a 3rd gen, had a kid, 3rd gen seized up sold it, no time to fix it...I know I know. Anyways im in boise now and currently have a 2nd gen dually 6 speed. Look forward to contributing again and meeting everyone

Depends on the series. Thor has the quiet towing dual organic clutch disc and it is quiet. This has the spring kit on the center disc to reduce rattle noise. Beast has the performance series dual organic clutch disc and its rather loud throw-out bearing noise and center disc rattle.

I believe it's just that the plastic got weak. I'm fairly sure that I've got it adjusted correctly according to South bend's instructions. I've heard the Valair dual disc's are very quiet, especially compared to south bend. Would you say yours are quiet?

For an AIO (All in One) package, it's a super nice and super easy to install in your PC or server case. In my case, I opted for the server case because the machine is running 24 hours a day and 7 days a week. Easy to install. The radiator is already prefilled with coolant and all the needed additives. Seal cooling system. During the install you have the option of which way you want the fans to blow. Since the radiator is in the front face of the case, I'm blowing inward into the case so all heat rises in the rear of the server case and allows the top case fan to blow the heat out. I set the motherboard features up to run as silently as possible. The water pump is only powered 80% right now. The fans ar even lower at 50% power level. You can see the CPU performance keeping the internal core temperature down. Hence why the text color is blue. 43℃ is 109℉, pretty cool right there. Internal cores. 26℃, which is 78℉. The server is always busy recording camera footage and handling system backups for all of our devices. Workstations are automatically done once a week but a hitch is if the machine isn't used the backup is missed. Soon I'll create a way for the server to wake up workstations to run maintenance like backups and other tasks.

As for everyone. I'm putting a foot down and no longer going to be told what to do. If you don't like what you see...

The PCM connector & pins are nice & clean. I have good continuity between pin 85 at the ASD & pin 3 on C3 of the PCM. And also good continuity between ASD pin 87 & PCM pin 12 on C3. Mine is a little different than the diagram you have posted. On mine, the ASD pin 86 gets battery constant power just the same as pin 30. Both get power through the PDC joint connector #2, which is just a terminal jumper in the PDC. I'd also suspect a PCM fault, but I had sent that out for testing & repairs a few months ago. It was returned with no problems found. Not saying they couldn't have made a mistake or something happened since then, but I'm hesitant to think the PCM is faulty.... Here's a diagram of what I have. Thanks!

I have. Done it several years ago actually. Grounds are all attached to the timing case and alternator connected to the passenger battery Battery cables have also been replaced and i have the heavy duty copper lugs bolted in to the napa “military style” terminals (napa part# 728222 for one of them, positive and negative are different numbers) They are really awesome and give a good solid connection since they have thru bolts.