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I need to change the oil this weekend so I’ll crawl around underneath and see if I notice anything.

If I am understanding correctly, the engine died because the lift pump was not operating. If this is true, then one of two things could be happening: The engine died because the VP44 internal vane pump could not pull fuel through a non operational lift pump. Some lift pumps are built this way, others have a directional free flow when non operational. The engine died because the VP44 internal vane pump was drawing air mixed with fuel from possible leaking fuel line / fuel line connections between the lift pump and the VP44 injection pump. I would be more suspect of #2 since you are seeing it take awhile to build lift pump pressure after the engine starts. I have actually installed a fuel line with a check valve that bypasses the lift pump just in case I have a lift pump failure. If a lift pump failure occurred on a road trip, the fuel supply would not be interrupted - the fuel would be drawn around the lift pump by the VP44's internal vane pump - no performance loss and no damage to the VP44. I could repair the truck when I get home. John

My sensor is mounted on the pump, but I imagine the line would still have to fill before any pressure was created. I do have a sensor closer to the VP but that had the Quad plugged into it which is no longer with us.

It is likely that you still have air in the fuel system. Do you have an electric fuel pressure gauge? If so, is the sensor remotely mounted? If it is, then there will be trapped air in the line going to the remote mount. Eventually, this air will work itself out of the system. John

When I started my truck the first time with the new ECM the fuel pressure was at its normal range of 14-15psi. After I shut the truck off I replaced a wire on my switch box and accidentally knocked a wire from the fuel pump relay. When I started it again I noticed I had zero pressure. Thinking I could figure it out quickly, the truck ran out of fuel. Once it was sorted the truck obviously wouldn’t start. I loosened the fass filter and ran the pump until it gushed and then retightened. I then cracked 2 injectors and cranked until they bubbled out fuel. The truck runs but now it takes a a few extra seconds of cranking when cold to start and the fuel pressure gauge doesn’t read until a few seconds after it has started. My pressure is now at 18-19psi. The truck runs and drives fine, not sure what to do.

Hey all passing threw again thaought id say hi and im getting ready to go threw mine fluids breaks frunt ind berrings rear tire check cams for wear and so on mopar how you doing ? And thats why i love living in the south lol i grew up in the northwest dont get me wrong i love the mountains but worked in to many winters .

Your welcome.

Mike if you lived closer I would kiss you. I had to remove the t-case boot to replace some wires and left it in neutral. 🤦‍♂️

Transfer case in neutral?

Apparently this trip isn’t over. The truck runs but now it doesn’t move. When I put it in gear the rpms drop a bit but no movement. When I try to put it back in park it grinds. I have to shut truck off to get back in park.

Glade to hear it. This means that GoECM fixed what ACS could not. A big plus for GoECM.

Praise the 8lb 3oz. baby Jesus my truck lives!!! I reassembled everything, hooked the batteries up and did a TPS calibration and it fired right up like it was running yesterday. Not to proud to admit I shed a tear or two of joy. 🥳

I'll be heading into my 3rd Radiator now. I'm at 500k miles, and the tank gasket on the driver side is leaking. I cut the radiator cap vent disk off, and now the radiator does not hold any pressure, but I've been this way for over 1 year,r even with a 200℉ thermostat, and still have a leaking radiator still. This winter, I'm hoping to be able to replace that radiator.

I replaced my OEM radiator in March of 2019 at 309,000 miles on the odometer. A small leak developed on the driver side where the upper part of the side tank connected to the core. I replaced the radiator with a Napa radiator - not sure of the brand, but the part number was 2464. Truck odometer is currently at 403,000 miles.

I am still running the same OEM original radiator that was installed on the Dodge Ram production line but I flushed out the orignal coolant 20 years ago and replace it with Shell Extended Life Coolant (ELC). The new replacement radiators suck. Very crappy quality. On edit: I meant to add that at every oil change, I have drawn out a gallon of coolant and replaced with new Shell ELC cool premix to keep the additives up to par.

I was thinking about how long the stock radiators lasted verse an aftermarket replacement. Could you tell us how old and milage on the original radiator when replaced and what brand was the replacement if known. If you bought the truck used and don't know the answer to the above question but have had to replace the radiator, please tell us the milage, how long you think the old one lasted, and replacement brand. Thank you, IBMobile

bits and pieces

Wow. Just crazy to have a bad processor.

Thanks for the update - will be following. John

Well the news isn’t good, after talking with the folks at GoECM they have confirmed the processor is bad in my ECM and is not repairable. Thankfully they are applying my repair cost towards the purchase of a new(reman) unit. I would assume this may be why the ACS repair didn’t work. I don’t know enough about these things to know if they would have been able to test this in depth. Their cost was much cheaper than GoECM so I’m not going to say anything negative about them. According to the info ACS sent me it sounds like they tested and repaired the parts I knew weren’t working. I’ll update again when I receive the new ECM and get it installed.

Some of you might think we are not around. Truth is, we are still working on cleaning up the shop mudslide disaster. Currently, we are down on vehicles, being that Beast just lost a starter, Thor had a random injector failure right at the time of the mudslide. Most of my tools and shop stuff are still buried in the yard. @Tweety Bird is trying to fill my shoes on the website by handling administrative duties. I'm working with the locals here to attempt to get use of a small track hoe and hoping for the return of the skid steer. Shop is still just a mess as we keep sorting materials to dispose of the debris while hunting for tools, parts, or any belongings. We are trying to plan for winter coming which includes getting firewood. Remember, both of my chainsaws are gone in the mudslide. Then I attempted to get both trucks running without a full set of tools and had to drive to friends' places to borrow tools for what I was missing. Currently, both trucks need work to get ready for winter. The crazy part is that I have to find help for the heavy-duty stuff because my cancer / ostomy is preventing me from doing most of this work...lifting restrictions...hernia risk...still building up my strength. Just another note, as for access to the website @Tweety Bird and I am sharing a laptop right now. Her laptop screen got damaged. My main computer finally gave up and the video card isn't rendering the screen correctly. That machine was built a long time ago. To top it off...our cloud server that controls the network here, is giving us backup, and storage and video recording of the security cameras just died too. I'm working on solutions to all these issues.

Ok. I get your wanting to learn why it won't work. Don't make any mods that cannot be returned back from. Like milling the intake off.

Will absolutely be careful with it. This is indeed my daily driver and If im being honest with myself at all I will be converting back to a intercooler when this doesn't work. But I have to try and fail or else I'll always wonder.

Be careful about this design. I still don't suggest this path. I don't think there is many gains to that whole intake system unless you are WOT all the time. I'm still assuming this is a daily driver street truck and not a strict race track truck, correct? Being a highway truck is going to be partial throttle most time. So boost is going to be low majority of the time. EGT can be controlled by timing. If you're looking for cooler temperatures, then you'll be milling the intake off to remove the coolant passage in the bottom. (1/2" pipe plug near the IAT sensor) Which is weird, being I've changed to a 200℉ thermostat from a 6.7L and am using custom timing and able to keep EGTs in check. At least in my design heat is my friend giving me better ignition quality but not over 140℉ intake temp ever even towing. Problem I see is the turbo is going to be hotter nearly 400℉ output temperature heading to the intake without a intercooler to cool the air before entering the engine. This link should help you figure out temperatures. Just https://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm IC Efficiency as a zero if your removing the intercooler. IC Efficiency as about 85 percent value forthe stock cooler.

Has anyone used the pusher style intakes? ( with the cross air) they have a somewhat novel idea of removing the freeze plug back by cylinder 6 and running tubing off the intake horn to it im looking at ways to ensure good air distribution and this came up. Short of milling off the intake shelf its one of the only options it see. Is it worth trying?