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Glad you got it figured out. Are you saying that there are two female connectors and two male connectors and that they will interchange? John

Welp I figured it out. I accidentally swapped the common ground plugs/junction connectors behind the dash. Added pictures and circled.

Update: I swapped the main fuse box and still have the same problems

I have a off brand version from amazon that should replace the doorman part number ( could be the problem) I'll call doorman up and see about the calibration procedure

Is your part number 604018 (a Dorman part number)? From what I have read on-line, this blend door actuator motor is universal and should work on your truck. It seems that there should be a calibration procedure, but I cannot find one on-line. It might be worth a call to the manufacturer to see what they have to say. Another possibility is to find a used actuator motor from a salvage yard. John

Wow! I have to commend your perseverance to get as far as you have. Good description of your issue. I don't have much offer at the moment. I think you may be right in regarding a previous owner thinking there was a dash wiring problem. Electrical ground problems, back feeding problems, and short circuit problems can be some of the most challenging electrical issues to solve. I think I would put my first focus on finding what is causing the 15 amp park lighting circuit fuse to blow under certain circumstances. You find that, then maybe everything else will fall into place. Also, I would look for any evidence of other accessories (especially lighting) that may have been wired by a previous owner. Do you have a wiring diagram to work from? John

Correct the 3 pin vs 4 pin "male side" with the pins on the green board. The wiring harness or "female side" has a blank block that will fit up to 6 wires ( only uses 3) and it is 100% the actuator replaced the adapter and even went as far as to swap the 3 pin bad motor with the working motor from the 4 pin however the green board itself is actually bad ( sat full of coolant from bad heater core)

COLOR!

Hello, I recently bought another truck non running of course, price was good and truck is clean and no rust so I figured why not. I’m going to try an explain everything thoroughly start to finish. The previous owner (diesel mechanic) bought it off a customer and tried to get it running. He lost interest. He had told me the only way he got the truck to run was he cut the bus wires in the injection pump. When I started investing I found the dash harness to be the wrong one, truck is fully loaded heated leather and had a basic dash harness in it. It appeared someone swapped the dash out. (Will make sense later keep reading) I found the correct dash harness for the truck part # according to mopar website and the supersedes/cross reference, I just got everything installed with a new dash and buttoned up. I reconnected the bus wires on the injection pump, truck starts and runs fine now. Here’s the problem I am having, the dome light is getting back fed from somewhere, stays barely lit, even with CTM unplugged, door switches unplugged, dash main connector unplugged, the only thing that shuts it off is the smaller dash connector, or pulling the connector off the headlight switch, here’s what’s even weirder, if I turn the dome light on from the switch it shuts off, and I am able to turn the parking lights on without the fuse blowing under the hood (parking light fuse) 15amp. If the dimmer is set or dome light off when I turn the parking lights on it blows the fuse. I have unplugged rear harness, connector on cab mount, ctm, ignition switch ect, replaced headlight switch with known good one, I have even swapped CTM from my other truck, I was very very tedious when I put the new dash harness in and plugged all my connectors in, I had the dash set up on a table ect, for some reason I think this is why the dash harness was swapped out before, previous owner thought it was that. Also the overhead console lights don’t come on automatically unless I click them on at the lense. If anyone has suggestions I would greatly appreciate it, I also made sure the dash harness color coded wires were all the same. And connectors were fully seated Thank you

It will give you time to clear your mind and come up with a good diagnostic approach. Possible issues to keep in mind: intermittent fuel supply blockage, especially suction side of lift pump large amount of air in fuel system (not likely) intermittent power to lift pump faulty lift pump (pressure regulator issue) When things get difficult to diagnose for me, I change tactics and try to prove what is working CORRECTLY, not what is working INCORRECTLY - a process of elimination. This method will sometimes get the issue resolved sooner than focusing on things that one might think is wrong. John

Are you referring to the wiring connector to the blend door actuator that shows a three-wire connection? It looks like others have had the problem you are having. Have you confirmed that you really have a blend door motor actuator problem, or is it possible that the interposer (plastic shaft) is cracked and slipping on the old one? In that case, you can just replace with Heater Treater's steel interposer. You will have to reset the gears though. Heater Treater has a video how to get the gears timed. John

100 GPH. Spellcheck got me

Give details of your bucket test. Have you ran the engine while drawing fuel from the bucket with a separate power source to the lift pump? I'm having a hard time with believing it to be a VP44 overflow valve problem. Did the FASS representative explain with detail on exactly how an VP44 overflow valve problem would adversely affect lift pump pressure? Also, if there is a restriction in the fuel supply anywhere in the lift pump circuit (especially the suction side), then unpredictable fuel pressure could be expected. What it the GPH rating on your lift pump? John

I have a bad blend door actuator on my father's truck (2002 3500 stock) ordered a replacement and all I can find is 4 pin units when plugged it it only rotates 1 way and makes a full 360 turn ( when installed it goes hard agains the blend door in the cool position. no matter the temperature setting. The old unit was a 3 pin but every part numbers listed is for a 4 pin. Am I missing something?

I bought a tow tune from him but it didn’t work. I’m still waiting for him to make the correction so it will work for me. Looking forward to it. Thanks Thank you sir glad to hear from the man himself. I’m not big on power, just like having better mpg and “ unloaded” power while towing my camper. Thanks

It seemed like I might have had another bad relay , so I jumped it, pressures were all over the place, from 20 to 12psi varying rpm’s. I did another bucket test had a constant 15-16 psi for an hour. Hooked the pump back to the truck, keyed it on psi went to 20 briefly while the truck warmed up then psi was all over the place 20 to 12…. FASS is leaning heavily towards OFV in VP 44. IDK

Hello everybody, I used to have a Quadzilla Xzt and had the 3000 tune on it and I just got another Xzt and I was wondering how or if I I can put the 3000 tune on my new one. Thanks

That’s right, same symptoms after 100 miles or so and it seems I’m starting to get the not answer the phone/ not call back run around game on the lifetime warranty from FASS as it now seems to be an electrical issue in pump, best I can tell. Just ordered one. Unfortunately, I have to go back to work and I won’t be able to get back on this with the code reader until February.

Then 2 things. Quadzilla only programs a running truck. There is the ability to see live data that's about it. OBDII code reader like OBDLink MX would be a good option.

Can you recommend one? I’ve been meaning to get a quadzilla . Does that have code reading? Or maybe just a basic code reader for now?

I had a scan gauge on a power stroke. It worked well. Can you suggest one for this pickup.

Just a flag or marker there is another error. Use a actual OBDII code reader.

I’ll definitely take a look as soon as I can get back on it. I just realized I have a P1693 code. I also have not yet done the W-T ground wire mod. I’m starting to wonder if this is what’s giving me relay problems

So the pop off fuel from all 6 injectors will bleed off inside the rail in the head that exits the head at the rear of the engine. Then the second line is the return of the VP44 which is the second line to return to the tank. This is what the square cuts o-ring will seal at the rear of the head. I'm talking the return of either of a FASS or AirDog fuel systems use a check ball and spring to control fuel pressure and flow back to the tank for seperating the air bubbles and fuel excess return is on this line. The fitting in the pump will have a black plastic check ball and a spring.

I have a service manual but , have not opened it up for this yet. Why is there a return tee and not just a single discharge to tank? I’m pulling and returning from a new fleece sending unit. I’m not sure there is a check valve there . I did a bucket test the other day and confirmed the relay was cycling on and off. Replaced relay and it seemed to have fixed the problem…. Not