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4 4-inch exhaust will handle 600 HP easily. Mufflers of most brands of exhaust setups are simple pass-through muffler styles, non-restrictive. I just jumped for the diamond eye 4" exhaust system because the high-priced kits, the pipe might hold up being stainless, but the hardware, hangers, and the clamps are all steel and will fail anyways. (Salt country). Diamond Eye is aluminum coated steel pipe, and mine held up just fine for the pipe, but the clamps failed, and the tail pipe fell out.

Like me, I use a 150-amp circuit breaker, and it can be reset at any time without the need to carry a second fuse in case of failure.

I would have skipped the hotrod pump, being that it's a mechanical change in timing because of the blending HO and SO pump parts together. It's possible to produce more power without a hotrod pump because you don't have to calculate the offset of timing advancement. Kind of like changing pop pressure to lower numbers does the same thing, like pop pressure 300 bar vs 310 bar is about 1 degree advanced. Like me, I changed to 320 bar from 310 bar to retard 1 degree. This 1 degree can be made up in a Quadzilla tuner easily. Advancing timing is going to reduce boost pressure. Retarding timing creates more boost pressure by passing more expanding gases through the turbo. Advance timing consumes most to all the expansion in the cylinder providing little ot nothing for boost. Double-check the block to gear case gasket while you're there, and the VP44 is removed. Cam sensor replacement is super easy, even without pulling the VP44. Tappet cover gasket, just remember not to use any silicone. It was installed as a dry seal! Make sure your cover is not bowed or warped.

Finally got a new radiator for Beast, and it's sitting in the back seat with the radiator cap. Just a matter of getting some good weather and getting the work done. Yeah, without a shop, and the weather is getting cold and wet here.

Ok. DAP got the injectors retested and fixed up. Apparently, I did pass some debris through both the filters or created debris from the CP3 during the fuel filter issue, or both. Injectors are installed and have been working excellently for the last few hundred miles I've put on. I now have an oil leak I must fix fairly quickly, it seems to be on the passenger side, but I've not officially dug into this quite yet because other important things needed to happen, like being married. Yup, Mopar1973Man is now married. As for Thor, I need to look into the oil leak, and I've also found I've got a bad wheel joint on Thor.

Hey Gang, Great News! @Tweety Bird and I just got married yesterday! (November 25th, 2025) We both opted to get the legal stuff done now so we can work as a team. Our full ceremony will be July 2026. I have to say, "We had to go through our 'Hell' to find 'Heaven' together." Our actual ceremony will be at 'Heaven Gate' in the Seven Devils' Mountain Range in July, hopefully the road will be passable by then. Suzanna and I met in a waiting room in the Portico West building in Meridian, Idaho. Suzanna was dealing with a surgical wound that was being stubborn to heal. I was dealing with my ostomy fitting and setup. The magic was that we met once, and I happened to change my appointments to 2 weeks earlier and wound up meeting Suzanna again on my second appointment. This is what we consider our anniversary date (July 25, 2024), which is rather strange, we got married on November 25th of 2025.

I changed out the cam sensor with a factory Cummins. When I did mine.

The time has come I can no longer put off replacing my tappet cover gasket. While in there I will be doing a re-seal of my vacuum pump also. Along with swapping in my hotrod vp44 from 98 cracked 53 block. I want to make sure I do everything I should while I've got it torn apart. Are there any other seals or anything else that I should be replacing while in it already?

Yes. The 140 amp fuse is reliable. It is not used on the passenger side battery because it has no fuse holder. People typically buy a 150 amp fuse (with holder) of their choice to use on the passenger side battery. I have changed mine to this setup three years and 35,000 miles ago. It has been working fine. John

I got some of the battery cable upgrading done. One part not done was rerouting the power cable from the alternator to the auxiliary battery. Now it goes over to the power distribution center. In my case it connects with one hole only. It has 2 holes and looks like it could mount through both and go to the 140A fuse. Is mine hooked up right? Is this 140A fuse not reliable, which is why I've seen using a 140A breaker rather than just hooking to the aux battery? Another thing - when looking how to get to the ECM plug, I noticed that my OEM fuel filter housing was there with the electrical connections plugged in. Does having those plugs disconnected cause problems? I've seen vids where this housing had been removed.

Key on engine off Cold start and idling 38°F outside temperature. As you see ive done the low pressure light and hated that it requires more plumbing for 2 sensors. I upgraded to programmable gauge. My warning light comes on at 13 PSI or lower.

I recommend mounting the pressure switch remotely. Make the connection with an 18" or 24" grease hose (1/8" NPT both ends) in conjunction with a snubber. Use a bulkhead fitting (from Amazon) for the remote location. Make sure there is at least a 90° bend, or make a complete loop with the grease hose. This reduces pressure spikes to the sensor. A remote location gives you easy access for testing fuel pressure or replacing the pressure switch. The photo below shows my earlier installation before I purchased the LEFOO LF20 pressure switch. John

SO... I give up... I'm ordering @Tractorman 's pressure switch.... I got Edge's pressure sensor installed and it was all over the place... installed a cheap mechanical gauge at the pump and it pegged at 15+psi... so I'm pretty sure it isn't the pump... which is tuned at 13-14 psi (NEVER saw 15 or more out of it). I have picked up a new screen filter (haven't changed in a couple of years) and a new media filter for the OEM fuel filter.. I also did 'LoanATool' from Oreillys and will check the fuel pressure at the pump one last time...

Prices on everything is high. Just looking into my fuel pressure sensor. $80 Quadzilla Adrenaline 0 - 100 PSI sensor

If your generating high boost pressures, then yes; a lot of air going in then a lot of air needs to go out. That depends on if you want to hear yourself. My truck only has a resonator, and my wife always complains on how loud it is. Someone else will have to answer that question. I have a Magnaflow 4" 304 stainless steel turbo back exhaust system, cost $300.61 but this exhaust kit is no longer available. I installed it 20 years ago and have had no problems with it, but I live in SoCal where there isn't a rust problem, and I have only put a little over 102k miles on it in that time.

So.. they shipped it GROUND and took 7 days to get to me from Utah??? go figure... The part number is: p500-50-a-e4c and when it was available was a $5 part.... I'm going to go on and use the one I received for $90 +plus shipping and tax ($120).

Well, my exhaust is pretty much rotted out almost to the head pipe, so I have some questions for the smarter folks here. 1. Is a 4 inch system (keeping in mind that I have replace the tail pipe, muffler, and intermediate pipe anyway) worth it? 2. Do I really need a muffler? 3. What brand/system gives the best bang for the buck? Any thoughts on this are both welcome and appreciated. Mark

Geez, when it fouls up, it dies well! 🙄 Now that I'm fixing the other parts of the server, I'm running into email problems with other members. Keep your email inbox in good repair and status. If I can no longer reach you by email means, then I have no recourse but to delete your account completely. I'm no longer going to hold on to accounts with broken email addresses. Again, if your email box is flagging our email as spam, I'll be forced to delete your account. I'll attempt to contact you by the listed phone number and/or PM you on the website, hoping to get a corrected email address. I'm no longer going to use my private email address for the website notifications. I've created a new no-reply@mopar1973man.com for all the notifications from the website. This email address will not be checked, nor will anyone respond from this address. If you need to be in contact with me, it should be worked out on the website in the forums or PM, depending on the nature of the issue. Checking email and website messages is just too much to chase, so we are going to keep the majority of the communication in the open forum. This way, if I'm not available because of medical reasons or traveling, then other staff and members can still help out till I return. Make sure to "whitelist" the email address of no-reply@mopar1973man.com this is required to keep communication going between Mopar1973Man.Com and yourself.

On the weekend I cleaned a ground on the fire wall in the engine bay hoping it would help the wiper motor that is working on and off sometimes, it doesn’t appear to help at all. I went a week with my dash cluster functioning 100% and today it went back to its dead self only the speed and the fuel level and the amp are working.

Aftertgat check out my article on automatic transmission diagnostics. Usually you can find out what's going on that way as well. Automatic transmission diagnostics chart

Because they have a properitary design for the accuracy of fuel pressure readings. Strangely enough ISSPro sensors will work direcdtly with a Quadzilla display. Just shows why the problems of getting the sensor. Even the ISSPro EV2 pyrometer sensor will exchange on the Quadzilla. Just tidbits...

I can't complain, it lasted 15 years... REALLY curious why they are so secretive with the sensor though... Had to jump through multiple hoops to order one.

This is why I installed ISSPro EV2 gauges and properly protected the sensor. Im on the road but there is a article on my fuel pressure sensor setup.

Edge Performance Products is a PAIN to deal with... would NOT sell me a fuel pressure sensor without going through the whole trouble shooting process a 2nd TIME!!!!!! now I"m curious what is so special about this pressure sensor... @Tractorman I decided to go with their outrageously priced sensor because BOOST, EGT and Transmission temp were already running on my current configuration... Cost $120 after tax and shipping were added... I"m going to definitely check it out and see WHY I couldn't find a similar product for less...

I’ll take a look at the ground this weekend.