Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. Do we get any kind of a discount buying through DAP? Specifically I am wanting to purchase (again from DAP) the quadzilla with iQuad. Thank you
  3. OmahaGen2 started following Diesel Auto Power
  4. @Mopar1973Man, that would be you...., John
  5. Yesterday
  6. deerefarmer joined the community
  7. I can't remember the reason i left and i cant remember my damn email password for my original account. I also sold my dodge so the world is ending as we know it.
  8. diesel13 joined the community
  9. ISX2 joined the community
  10. Congratulations. Best wishes for the new year
  11. Does this mean NO slow start when the engine is cold? If so, your lift pump pressure may be too high. The OEM fuel pump setup uses PWM (pulse width modulation) to reduce supply voltage to the lift pump, thus reducing fuel pressure, while cranking. The reasoning is that high lift pump pressure during cranking can affect the position of the timing piston, thus making the engine hard to start when warm. Not everyone has experienced this, but some have. Is your relay wired directly from the battery? You could try reducing lift pump pressure to see if this helps starting a warm engine. Don't get caught up in the, "you gotta have at least 14 psi lift pump pressure", as it is not true. Take it down to 12 psi or so at idle and see if that helps. Good to hear you found the problem with the lift pump. John
  12. These are the o rings for the return on back of head? Fuel pump is back on line. 20+ psi at idle, no less than 17psi WOT. Turns out the problem was the relay. Junk I suppose. This was the relay that came with pump. Eklund brand, I think. Funny, FASS gave me a Bosch part # to replace it with. No one carries Bosch where I live , and rather than waiting on an internet order I replaced with another brand that cross referenced from AutoZone. Still have the slow start when warm though
  13. Last week
  14. Thank you for that info! Looking at some install photos, I see that is the case. Seems like Timbo has really good pricing on them, and thats with the harness. I assume he gets them from a real supplier and they are not knock-offs. Looking to get one here soon. *QUICK UPDATE* (been sick, out of town, etc... the last 4 weekends!) Just checked alternator AC voltage, was coming in between 0.045 and 0.050 volts. So I might need some diodes here sooner than later. Verified TPS voltage at idle. It was fine, dare I say low. Came in at 0.46 so I turned it up to 0.3 below the spec on the back of the sensor. Verified function to make sure there wasnt any drop out or similar throughout the range, all seemed fine. I have a nice Fluke 115 with fast refresh and graphing, super handy! Thinking this is a sensor giving out while hot. It has been cooler here lately and it hasnt been acting up as easily/often, which makes it tough to verify issues and repairs. A new side quest is that the driver side flex brake line is leaking at the frame side crimp now, so I am going to order up some stainless lines to fix those up proper. This is after the fuel canister drain decided it no longer wanted to seal after being used a couple of times, got that fixed up with a OE Cummins part from Genos. Doing what I can to keep er goin, thats for sure!
  15. Just throwing it out there before I buy a new one. Anybody have one they are not using? LMK Thank you
  16. Congrats, may you both have many years of harmony together as you rebuild life the way you prefer it to be. Stay Strong.
  17. Yeah, up here in Idaho, we see upwards of -20℉. Automatics up here are rather rare, and manuals are more typical. The guys here are right that you should consider keeping the factory transmission fluid cooler or replacing it with a more modern transmission cooler in its place. The factory cooler has issues with rusting and leaks over time.
  18. A lot of you don't understand why the makeup. I'll admit I fell apart last night; it's Christmas / New Year's again. Both of my bladder cancers came for Christmas. What most people don't get is the fact that what I love to do is out of my reach. Let's roll back the clock and understand that as a kid at the 14 years old I was gifted a socket set (Craftsman) and fell in love with mechanical things. I was building go-karts and mini-bikes with friends. I was fixing lawn mowers and small single-cylinder engines. Then, at the age of 16, I got my Dad's 1973 Dodge Charger SE as my first car. Hence, my nickname came from my first car. Now fast forward to 2002 and buying my first Diesel truck and dove in with both feet into a world I've never done and became an" internationally known diesel mechanic". Now, for 2018 and 2023 Christmas was a lonely and frightening trip to a hospital, and a fight for my life. It's been rather tough to figure out where I'm going from here since my shop is nothing more than a frozen dirt pile today. I have some basic tools to keep things going here, but still missing a lot of tools and equipment. As much as I want to be that diesel mechanic, I can't because of health issues stemming from my kidneys, left side is 82%, and my right is 17% remaining. In this condition a infection would kill me, so I can't really be out and covered in grease and dirt. I can't lift more than 40 pounds because of a hernia risk with my stoma. I want to continue doing what I love, but at the same time, it's nearly impossible to jump into doing major work in Thor to just build articles. It's just too cold and getting difficult for me handle long-term cold without heat and an enclosed shop. Then another realization, Titanium has a birthday and is officially 2 years old. Yes, this means I've been doing daily makeup work for 2 years now and taking my art to the streets. My makeup work was my way of dealing with depression and trying to do something that brought happiness back, while doing something that was very scary at the time, dealing with chemotherapy treatments and the possibility of death. Titanium is my way of finding some enjoyment in my day, as I can't just go down to the shop and fix another problem with a truck, to build a website article is gone. I have to be thankful for the fact that I created the Titanium character to keep me going during a very tough time. Happy Birthday, Titanium!
  19. TDAWG2 joined the community
  20. I typically drive on level 3. I'm not fond of many of the tunes I've seen, as they tend to ramp up aggressive amounts of fuel way too early and try to push the power out. My tuning aspect is more built around daily drivers, milder fuel curves, and main power is up above the 10 PSI or 15 PSI realm, nothing below that.
  21. cbasinger1 joined the community
  22. Jk_ex86 joined the community
  23. Meh, while my hours available in the shop will decrease, the nice bump in pay makes it worth it. Ill just not be able to putz as much as I have been. All in all it was a good "bad" thing.
  24. @Tractorman Those o-rings are square cut and you would need to order from Cummins for replacement. Might be a good idea.
  25. Sorry to hear that. Kind of like myself my mechanic part has to come to end. Lower back is trashed. The ostomy bag is limiting. My knowledge is all there. Just need the body. Hang in there.
  26. "Tanks" will live under the bed between the running boards and rear wheels. I approved the color so he can start final sand and get it on parts. I'm guessing 1 to 1.5 years yet till on the road. Life has changed, Cummins is exiting the hydrogen markets and my division was nuked, as was my job. I did find a new job already, but my hours won't be as kind to personal time, so things will get slower.
  27. Singletipterry joined the community
  28. On my truck the tee at the back of the head started to leak fuel about 15,000 miles ago (at 390,000 miles). At the time I had the transmission out while doing a clutch job and I noticed the leak. The connections were loose, so I just tightened the them from below. They have never leaked since. A leaking tee fitting (even if it's only leaking air) can cause long cranking times, but it will not affect fuel pressure after the engine is running - so, not likely to be your problem. I haven't tried accessing the tee fitting from the top of the engine. I would probably remove the valve cover and use a mirror to inspect the connections and then blindly reach around the back of the head to tighten them. John
  29. CustomLeader007 joined the community
  30. Lift pump has a lifetime warranty. Hopefully I get it narrowed down tomorrow. I have not even looked for the tee in the back of the head yet as I have not seen any evidence of fuel leaking from there. What’s the best way to access that tee?
  31. The tech is probably referring to the 14 psi overflow valve in the VP44 injection pump. This pressure control valve is very reliable and I am almost certain it is not your problem. People have replaced this valve because of not understanding how the fuel system works, and then found after replacement, their symptoms didn't change. Even if the overflow valve failed (as in opening at a lower pressure), it would have little or no effect on lift pump pressure. All fuel that enters the VP44 must pass through in internal fixed displacement vane pump. This pump is regulated at 100 - 300 psi depending on engine rpm and engine load. Because the internal vane pump is fixed displacement, additional fuel cannot be forced through it regardless of lift pump pressure. Both Airdog and FASS lift pumps use a ball and spring check valve to regulate fuel pressure by recirculating any fuel that is not being used by the injectors and the VP44 cooling system. If the lift pumps are high volume pumps (which yours probably is), then a lot of fuel has to recirculate, in fact more fuel recirculates than gets used. The pressure control valves on these lift pumps are usually not of high quality and the ball and seat can take a beating, which can cause symptoms that you are experiencing. I am surprised that the Tech didn't mention this. I would be looking at two possibilities for low / erratic lift pump pressure. Check the condition of the ball, spring, and seat in the lift pump. Check for any restriction / leaks in the low pressure fuel supply. Pay special attention to the suction fuel lines from inside the fuel tank to the lift pump. Many people that have observed erratic lift pump pressure have stretched the spring in the lift pump's pressure regulating valve for a bit more tension. For some it gave desired results. John
  32. Ok, the return line wouldn’t cause the low pressure while running would it Everything is JIC and I beiieve everything downstream of VP44 is stock
  33. OMG! Are you ever going to finish that thing up? Where are the false fuel tanks going? Pretty blue! Blue is my favorite color... Actually fixing my choker collar.
  34. I believe you're experiencing a suction side air leak. Double-check the suction line side fittings, make sure they are snug and clean in the fittings. Let me know what type of hardware you're using. The other part could be that you have a return line leak? Like, possibly a crossover o-ring issue or maybe injector o-ting. Sounds weird, but I've done a head gasket after the head came back, cleaned the baked injector o-rings would weep air in, allowing the system to drain, making a hard start. I've see nthis with crossover tube o-rings as well. Make sure to double-check the return tee in the rear of the engine; it might be weeping air into the system while parked.
  35. Good afternoon, I put a titanium fass lift pump along with a Fleece sureflo sending unit on my 2001 pickup about a year and a half ago. It’s been flawless for a few thousand miles. I had been noticing some slow starts when warm. Not bad just a few more revolutions than what was normal. I put some NAPA cross referenced fuel filters on because I didn’t have FASS replacements and didn’t have the time to wait . I started to take a trip recently and fuel pressure dropped significantly. I got the truck home and parked it for a month . I wasn’t real confident about the NAPA filters so i replaced with the direct replacement FASS filters. Test drove the truck for an hour or so and all seemed fine. Today it did the same thing again. I had gotten 17-19 psi at idle and 15-17 WOT. Today it dropped to 15 idle and drops significantly at WOT. I talked to tech support at FASS and he mentioned something about a valve in the VP 44 might be a problem. Now when I turn the key on PSI jumps to 17 and drops to zero momentarily when I start the pick up. I’m in the process of putting a mechanical gauge in line to verify that the brand new auto meter pillar gauges are not the problem. Does this sound like a VP44 problem? Truck only has a 160000 miles, but I assume VP44 and everything beyond is original equipment . Thanks, Kevin
  36. Mopar1973Man commented on Mopar1973Man's blog entry in Titanium
    I just received a call from a guy, and I repaired his truck about 6 years ago. His son was driving the truck and lost power, or thought maybe there was a transmission problem. When I was done listening to the truck issues, I notified the owner of my changed appearance and why I'm not capable of turning wrenches. I don't mind being the technical advisor for Cummins projects. The body might not work right, but my mind is stuffed full of knowledge on many different topics. If you're having issues with your truck, I'm more than willing to be there and watch and guide a person through the repairs of their truck. No different than what I do here on the website, just do it in person. I will show up at a client's house in makeup and hair. I'm not going to change...

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.