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  1. Today
  2. I’m on my original rad @ 442k km. I change the coolant every 2 years with Cummins ELC. I wish these engines had a spin on water filter head like the 8.3 has (built into the engine). I’m also on my original VP44…ask me the secret to that ;)
  3. Mace started following Radiator Lifespan
  4. Yesterday
  5. Igottaroll joined the community
  6. I might suggest looking up the torque amount for those bolts and maybe add addition 5 ft/lbs more. Just a crazy idea?
  7. He removed both units and installed a gear driven power steering pump directly onto the accessory drive gearbox. He also installed a remote power steering pump reservoir. Here is a link to his original post regarding the conversion. You will need to scroll through the whole post as he talks of other conversions, as well. I made the same conversion myself - very happy with the results. It's nice having an accessible see-through reservoir. The direct mount power steering pump definitely out performs any of my previous pumps, including the OEM pump. John
  8. How did you deal with the old vacuum and steering pumps?
  9. RT_2001 joined the community
  10. Last week
  11. DieselAdictTrev joined the community
  12. Yes I will keep a close eye on this it is on the road now just had an annoying knock over pot holes which are far too common over here. Especially with the amount of road tax we pay
  13. That makes more sense. Since the sleeves have been loose for awhile, they probably have worn into the clamping "ears" of the mounting assembly. This will make it more difficult to achieve the right clamping force so that the steel sleeves don't move around after you install the new bolts. I recommend to closely monitor that clamping force for a few months after the truck is back on the road. John
  14. The bolt has worn thin so the sleeve isn't tight around the bolt I fitted new shocks they started knocking a few weeks later. This was a few years ago now truck has been pretty much out of service until this summer. I will update the post with some pictures of the bolts. Shocks I fitted was from rock auto as they ship fast to the UK and they would have been from the daily driver or performance section on there. @Tractorman ignore that just looked the bushes look fine the knock is where the sleeve has play due to the worn bolts. 🤦🏻 It's been a while since I've gone through this truck. Since using it this summer it's had: New sills both sides 'rockers' in the us Rear diff re-bearing Service Ac leak sorted List goes on These do not like sitting around for extended periods!
  15. I am not understanding cause and effect here. Since the lower shock bushings have an inner steel sleeve that gets clamped tightly by the compression of the mounting bolt, there would never be any wear on the bolt. The only way that I can think of in which a shock bushing would be destroyed after 5 minutes of operation, would be that the incorrect shock absorber is being used (resulting in the lower mount receiving the full weight of the vehicle during compression, or the full weight of the axle assembly during a rebound). If you are getting aftermarket bolts, be sure the bolts have a hardness of 10.9. John
  16. Tweety Bird reviewed Mace's Cummins article in Cab Interior
    Thank you for your post! We are always welcoming members to post details and pictures to add to the articles for others to view and benefit from any repairs or modifications to vehiicles so everyone may benefit. We appreciate your input...looks great! And thank you for posting pictures as well!
  17. BOLT, Hex Flange Head, M14x2.00x80.00, Shock Mounting,
  18. Thanks I will try order some through Amazon US
  19. Here is a trick for next time I found the bolt part number and also the bolt size... BOLT, Hex Flange Head, M14x2.00x80.00, Shock Mounting, Then go back to Google to look up the part... Then select a supplier for the part. I see Amazon and a few others...
  20. True, the crank sensor has to show the crank turning to keep the power turned on for the lift pump and injection pump. If there is any loss of tach signal, it will drop the fuel pumps. Any error codes?
  21. I would suggest a Cummins crank sensor they are not that expensive. We have loads of issues with non genuine CPS sensors over here in the UK. Also as mentioned bump the starter and your lift pump should prime for 20 seconds or so
  22. Hi My front lower shock bolts have worn so shock bushings last 5 minutes before being shot. Could someone be able to get me a price shipped to the UK please I can't find them on rock auto unfortunately. Thanks Or even the size/thread I could try and find something over here. Maybe cross over with a jeep or something
  23. badger218 joined the community
  24. Ronniemx3 changed their profile photo
  25. Images added to a gallery album owned by Mopar1973Man in Titanium
    My adventure of having a second run at bladder cancer and going back and forth to chemo treatments and surgeries. "Titanium" the character, kept me going and helped me with depression and stress of the idea I might not make it. I've made several new friends and found a new way to enjoy life as I continue to dress up and do my Titanium makeup. I'm always taking my adventure out into the public and share my artwork with everyone!
  26. I'm still experimenting with makeup artistry. Been more focused on the dirt work in the yard, but there are a few days I was messing around. @Tweety Bird wanted to see a few new colors of hair for me. How about fire red? Then I've even been to a funeral for one of my friends, I was dressed in full black and black makeup. The fire red hair, I really enjoy wearing when you get comments about being seen all the way across the store, like Walmart. I love to dress up and interact with the public. The black was a way for me to dress up for a funeral for my friend Dan Catherman. Just after the landslide, he was down helping me hike up the mountain to look at the landslide from top down. Rest in Peace, my friend.
  27. Images added to a gallery album owned by Mopar1973Man in Mopar1973Man Landslide
    This is a collection of photos of what happened to my shop that I've worked out of for over 35 years doing mechanic work. This all took place on May 29th 2025 at 6:00am. A massive chunk of the mountain and 9 trees slammed into the back of the shop / guest house and destroyed the building. This is a photo blog of what has been happening for clean up and clearing the debris off my driveway to gain access to the main house which still standing.
  28. Yeah I'm finally getting this cleaned up and can focus on getting my driveway back. As of right now the driveway is rough but accessible for vehicles to the front door. After I clean up the trash pile we will have parking area for all the vehicles here on the property. I'm racing against winter time to make sure I can keep my driveway cleared and open. The videos are while I was digging for the shop stuff and Mark personal stuff, if I got lucky but most everything in the house and shop was crushed by heavy slabs of concrete. Finally, I got my driveway cleared in a rough method. It has been long days and a lot of diesel fuel for digging like this. I've had to double-stack all my dirt and debris pile against the mountainside. This is only a temporary place for just the wintertime. I've still got to rebuild a shop at some point so I can even maintain my own vehicles. The driveway is clear but I've got a huge trash pile to sort out, hopefully before the snow comes. Take the wood and move it to the lower yard to be burned this late fall.
  29. Looking forward to seeing it also!
  30. Electric Vacuum Pump Conversion: I have deleted my OEM vacuum and power steering pump(s). Instead, I have modified it by replacing it with a midrange setup for steering assist; however, I still need vacuum in order to activate the HVAC controls and to activate my exhaust brake. Although the OEM factory pump never gave me any issues and supplied all the vacuum I needed to work, such as the HVAC and the exhaust brake, the OEM Power Steering did. I have replaced the OEM Power Steering Pump multiple times. In all cases, the pump would not maintain enough pressure and turning the wheels at a stop during idle was almost impossible. Compound that with the inevitable oil leak between both pumps, I figured there was a better system. So, this is where the "midrange" setup comes into play. The 24V ISB was used in multiple applications (not just Dodge). Even though they were not used in another pickup, they were used in midrange sized trucks like Freightliner FL60 &FL80, Ford 650 & 750, Kenworth 370, motor homes, bread trucks, etc, etc. It was the engine of its era. Trucks with vacuum controlled cruise should work also. This particular modification applies to my setup only; (the midrange setup for steering assist). My cruise is ECM controlled. I have the non CAD front axle, so my vacuum demand is limited. On SD applications, they use it to lock the front hubs and HVAC on their trucks. So I feel it should work on any of our vehicles. I used the same pump from the SuperDuty and 3rd Gen RAMS (same pump). I picked it up from Rock Auto along with a Mating Connector. I drilled 3 holes and mounted it on the fuse box cover, in an easy to service spot. For plumbing, it goes to a control manifold for the EB, and tees off into the OEM vacuum line on the firewall. I do not use a reservoir like FORD uses, but you could run one if you desire it. For power, it gets fused voltage from the PDC power stud, which is also the relay supply power (pin 30). The relay trigger is controlled by a fuse tap in one of the PDC fuses, that is hot only when the key is on, so it does not run all the time. The pump has an internal governor, so when it reaches its vacuum threshhold, it shuts off. If it is always running, you most likely have a leak that you need to repair first. View full Cummins article
  31. Mace posted an Cummins article in Cab Interior
    Electric Vacuum Pump Conversion: I have deleted my OEM vacuum and power steering pump(s). Instead, I have modified it by replacing it with a midrange setup for steering assist; however, I still need vacuum in order to activate the HVAC controls and to activate my exhaust brake. Although the OEM factory pump never gave me any issues and supplied all the vacuum I needed to work, such as the HVAC and the exhaust brake, the OEM Power Steering did. I have replaced the OEM Power Steering Pump multiple times. In all cases, the pump would not maintain enough pressure and turning the wheels at a stop during idle was almost impossible. Compound that with the inevitable oil leak between both pumps, I figured there was a better system. So, this is where the "midrange" setup comes into play. The 24V ISB was used in multiple applications (not just Dodge). Even though they were not used in another pickup, they were used in midrange sized trucks like Freightliner FL60 &FL80, Ford 650 & 750, Kenworth 370, motor homes, bread trucks, etc, etc. It was the engine of its era. Trucks with vacuum controlled cruise should work also. This particular modification applies to my setup only; (the midrange setup for steering assist). My cruise is ECM controlled. I have the non CAD front axle, so my vacuum demand is limited. On SD applications, they use it to lock the front hubs and HVAC on their trucks. So I feel it should work on any of our vehicles. I used the same pump from the SuperDuty and 3rd Gen RAMS (same pump). I picked it up from Rock Auto along with a Mating Connector. I drilled 3 holes and mounted it on the fuse box cover, in an easy to service spot. For plumbing, it goes to a control manifold for the EB, and tees off into the OEM vacuum line on the firewall. I do not use a reservoir like FORD uses, but you could run one if you desire it. For power, it gets fused voltage from the PDC power stud, which is also the relay supply power (pin 30). The relay trigger is controlled by a fuse tap in one of the PDC fuses, that is hot only when the key is on, so it does not run all the time. The pump has an internal governor, so when it reaches its vacuum threshhold, it shuts off. If it is always running, you most likely have a leak that you need to repair first.

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