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This is pretty accurate. One of my other cars is an Evo with a stroker engine that was built when I was still stationed in Japan. The builder told me that with the clearances, i need to run 20w50 oil, and that my minimum hot oil idle pressure is 15psi ( factory engine minimum oil press is like 5psi, gas engines are a wee bit different). The builder had used Motul engine oil, but that stuff was CRAZY expensive in Japan. I used LiquiMoly, hot idle pressure dropped by a few psi, still above the minimum, but it dropped. Then I tried ELF racing oil, and that could barely hold minimum psi, car ran noticably rougher. Enter Valvoline VR1. That stuff is AWESOME. I do not know what valvoline puts in there, but its amazing! super resilient against breaking down, holds hot oil pressure even better than Motul. And it is very reasonably priced. Mind you, this poor car gets hammered and abused every single time I drive it. It really brings out the pissed off teenager in me. Lesson here, all these oils were 20w50, and while in theory they should all perform somewhat similar, this couldn't be further from the truth! And now I have a case of VR1 on the shelf at all times. Also, I checked the AMSOil dex 3, and its cold pour point and cold flow performance are FAR superior, but it is synthetic of course. research will continue.

OMG! I love the new Omada Controller software—way more information about your entire network and the usage. The Current version I'm running is. Omada_Controller_v6.1.0.19_linux_x64.deb The new version of the software now lists things like interference of signal. There is much more diagnostic information brought back from the Gateway (firewall), Controller, and even the WiFi heads. WiFi stability is way better now than even 2 years ago since I built the dedicated server for all the network stuff to run on. Comunications here are nearly flawless. The family here enjoy the high speed WiFi (6 GHz) with connection speeds as high as 2 GBits per second. The two workstation PCs have been running full tilt at times, doing large downloads and even other devices like Pandora on my TV, still playing smoothly without buffering or stopping. The Gateway, the smaller box, is set up to check every 1 minute to see what the signal ping rate is on the entire network, so it throttles up downloads, a few nights ago, I was rebuilding a XBox to play, but has drive issues. The entire game of Ark requires 155 GB of files to download, which was done on 2 Xboxes downloading the same game at the same time. The network gave 100 ot 120 Mbps of speed to both Xboxes without dropping TV or music channels playing.

Your subscription is worth it, right? 😁 Good, at least you have the knowledge to do a scientific study to figure out what your transmission is like for fluids. Remember, this is a temporary weather issue, but you can make a better choice of fluids for your transmission. When we modify these trucks for more power, more torque, more towing abilities, there is going to be a forced change of fluids that fit the new design. Like my example of the manual transmission, I was seeing extremely high transmission temperatures on 75w-80 SynTorq Fluid back in the day, this became to thin and cause my damages. Now with thicker fluid to cling to the gear and not easily spun off the gearface so there is something between the gear face protecting the gears from touching. This is a known issue for G56 (manual 6 spd) for using ATF+4 in my 2006 G56 transmission. Yeah, that will be another fluid I'll even change and upgrade too. Again, I've increased power on Thor, and you need better protection or the transmission will wear! Point I'm making once you leave the stock power realm start researching your lubricants. Don't just settle for Redline or AMSOil synthetic because of the brand name. Also look at the temperatures you operate at what is your power increase over stock. Just consider true 1/4 mile trucks don't run just 80w-90 in the axles because its too thin. I've seen some professional trucks running 250 wt in the axles. Just consider factory 85w-140 for limited slip axles factory setup. Again needs friction modifier too. Keep the axle clutches from ratcheting. You are right about this being real too. There was a flash update for the PCM to correct for this in stock form for the most part. I'm missing that TSB from the article database and will have to hunt it down. His I think is a bit deeper issue with viscosity being more the issue.

Well dang! You are taking me to school here! I did some quick searching/google/bing and even asked Jeeves :) and turns out that valvoline dex3 is likely the best cold weather performing fluid out there. cSt of valvoline is 2 points lower at 40C compared to competitors. However, the Brookfield test is checking for cold weather performance, and valvoline has the lowest pour point and the lowest cP at -40C. Guess I am going to change fluids over and see how that does.

Just a quick search on Google AI turned up... There is your thicker fluid that needs a bit more time to warm up in cold climate. Might look at the specifications sheets of different fluids and them figure out which fluid is better based on "kinematic viscosity" scores.

That’s all some serious food for thought! I currently have O’Reilly Conventional Premium ATF Dexron III in there. Firepunk was very specific about it having to be conventional dex3 fluid. If you have a suggestion for other oil, I am all ears/eyeballs.

Beast has developed a problem with the hydrobooster being the main booster piston; the seal failed, and even brake pedal usage was leaking hydraulic fluid from the hydrobooster. There is a bleed hole on the bottom of the unit. This was just replaced, as the article was created in the 2nd Gen brake and axle category. That particular day, I was wearing my black hair and basic black makeup. Then on Thor, it was a matter of replacing the battery terminals. Using the really basic tools I do have after the landslide its rather challenging to do some jobs because you just don't have the right tool and needs to be done. All the factory lead terminals were cut off with a dull hacksaw. Then trimmed back to find copper wire. Clean any corrosion off the wire before crushing copper lugs to the wire. Improved the starting and power stability for this truck since the passenger cable was held on with a C-clamp. That day, I was enjoying my red hair and flame colored eyes. Some of you wonder why still. The makeup work of Titanium becomes a line in the sand for me for protection for myself. Knowing my ostomy bag is there, I must keep my bag area and my hands clean. My dress code limits me from rolling in the mud or dirt to do work. Remember, the landslide took my shop and the dry space I had. The last 2 days here have been raining so no work was done last two days because of zero dry space to work. I'm going to continue to produce as many articles as I can with my limitations. You have to remember my right kidney is only 17% remaining and my left is 82% remaining.

Not a prob.

ATF+4 is typically used with factory transmissions for the fact it has a lot of friction modifier which makes the clutches and bands slip for the soft shifts. Dextron/Mercon typically does not have the heavy amount of friction modifier so there is a sudden grab of clutches. Stalling issues till the ATF thins out some. Manual Transmission Tidbit... Here is what I know even manuals. Since I went up in power (500 HP) I wanted better cling to the gears so went from 75W-80 to 50 SAE which is actually 90wt gear lube. It stopped wear on hard facing of the gears. So in your case you need to find a fluid that keeps up in high temperature (protecting clutches and gears) then to have cold weather characteristics that flow good to prevent stalling. Brands and different blends of friction modifier might help. That's the tough part enough slip not to stall but sticky enough not burn bands and clutches.

Great. Thanks for the prompt response.

You can tear all of that out. Firewall mat and cowl included. Bad idea from the factory being it dumps all the dust into the engine every time the valve cover comes off. No need to replace.

Consider doing a compression test. This will show the piston rings issues quickly. On gas engine we would add squirt of oil in each cylinder it would produce higher compression score that notes bad rings. Im not sure anyone could do it with 24V hole and not drop the oil in the bowl of the piston.

So my insulation between my tappet cover and ecm was completely shot. I'd there a real need to replace this?

Thank you. Knowing the reason behind it, I don't need to install one anyways. I've done the vent tube knob because of the oil. But then other stuff starting leaking oil shortly after. Hoping im getting most of it now.

Thanks for the response! So I did the Neutral idle for a bit as well when this was actively going on, and I am not sure if this helped or not, as I would let the truck idle for about 3 to 5 minutes and then put it in gear. It didn't stall very often to begin with, but I never had it stall doing the neutral idle. I really only had it stall maybe a total of 5 times over a few weeks before I employed the "raise the RPM while standing on the brakes" method, which has been flawless so far. I will keep monitoring, but here in south GA I doubt we will have any more really cold mornings happen, and perhaps TC will loosen up a bit over the year. Is there perhaps better fluid that will be better in the cold? Firepunk did specify DexMerc 3 NON synthetic, so there is a specific suggestion for a brand of fluid that deals better with the cold, I am all ears. Phil

Thor now has a full set of military terminals, and the copper lugs are all crushed on. Sadly, my crimping tool is not designed for large copper lugs like 2/0 and 0 AWG wire sizes, so it pinched the copper on one side, but still made a solid lugs. Improved starting performance, it spins over stronger now. I no longer see power fluctuations like before. There is a few thing I'm going to do is reroute the positive lead for the TIPM so its no longer hanging up the fuse box cover. Driver Side battery Passenger Side Battery

Could you grab a live data tool and check the IAT temperature with the ECT temperature and see if it a real temperature issue or not (electrical problem maybe?) As for the engine not shutting off there is some sort of electrical issues that is keeping the ignition up. I can say if there is a Quadzilla tuner on board and you happened to jump start your dead battery you could of shorted out the Quadzilla, and the engine will not shut off till you unplug the Quadzilla tuner.

You're basically covering up a piston ring(s) issue, typically or bad tuning. Why? Well, normally, these trucks will not produce excessive crankcase pressure or blowby gases. Now, someone who runs worn injectors, then your timing could be advanced by the weaker springs in the injectors. Now, you're creating this extra blow by. might see more slobber of oil out of the crankcase vent (gear case vent). I suggest keeping injectors changed out at 100k miles. After that point your rolling the dice. For every 10 bar of pop pressure loss is about 1 degree of advancement. If your injectors haven't been changed in over 100k miles, I'd start there. Yea,h sadly, the only reason I know to add more vent/filter to the valve cover is that the factory breather is not keeping up because of the vacuum line disconnected (added pressure from the vacuum pump), poor rings on the pistons, worn injectors with low pop pressure (less than 293 bar). Now, like Thor, I have a bad ring in Thor, and Thor starts and runs, but the exhaust is white smoke from the low compression, and there is extra crankcase pressure on Thor from the blowby, and the blowby isn't bad, but still it would help to have an extra vent at that point, but... Better to fix the problem. Yeah, I've got plans to rebuild that 2006 in the future. First problem, I need a shop to work in once again. Another trick is you could create a vent pipe to keep the slobbering down some. Remember, this will not fix excessive blow-by.

I show up... The member who pops up in this type of stalling issue is @pepsi71ocean he had a DTT transmission built and had a similar issue with stalling. It turns out that the torque converter is too low of a stall with the temperatures. If your valve body has the mod done to pump in park, it would help with warming the fluid up, making it a bit thinner before you shift into Drive or Reverse. The problem is that the fluid is thick and cold, and the low stall converters don't do well in cold climates at all. Basically, the best choice is to set the parking brake and put the transmission in Neutral to get the pump flowing. As the pump is flowing, you have the heat exchanger on the passenger side, which should bring warmth to the fluid faster. Give that a shot and see if that helps out.

I've seen that some of the tappet covers have a breather on them. Mine has a little box the sticks out near the back, with a plate there on the inside. No clue on the purpose of that. But just wondering if there would be any reason to add a breather there like some have

John, Thanks for the reply! I have no removed the EZ yet, maybe something to consider. I did ask Firepunk what stall the new TC is, and I was told about 150rpm below factory. I have ZERO issues driving this thing around, it shifts super crisp. I will look into the this ECM thing some more, another thing I am chasing right now is the Wait To Start delay, it is a couple seconds right now, so from reading through here, I know that I have to look into getting the ECM rebuild/replaced. When this happens, I will be asking about the anti-stall feature. Phil

Long posts are appreciated - especially when they are informative - like yours. I'm leaning toward your new low-stall converter triggering this issue. A stock converter has a stall speed of about 2,100 rpm, so it does not put much of a load on the engine when "drive" or "reverse" is selected. Your new converter probably has a stall speed of around 1,800 rpm, so shifting into gear will load the engine much heavier, especially in cold weather. I vaguely recall that there was an ECM update (referred to as "Anti-stall") around 1999 for these VP44 trucks. I think it was geared for the manual transmission trucks, but possibly the automatic trucks as well. Maybe @Mopar1973Man will chime in on this topic. Have you tried taking the Edge EZ completely out of the circuit? John

Greetings, Long time listener, firl time caller here. TLDR: When cold, the transmission sometimes stalls the engine, but only once. Trans new - Firepunk, billet torque converter. EDIT - No Codes present Video with the issue posted on bottom of this post. So I recently moved back to the states from a long stint living overseas, and I picked up a 99 4x4 A/T truck. Power wise, the truck is completely stock apart from an Edge EZ the PO installed. Everything was great, except the trans would not lockup in O/D. Following many suggeestions from here that could have an effect on the lockup, I realized this was a torque converter issue. I ended up deciding to bite the bullet and have a built trans put in, and had Firepunk DIesel install one of their stage 1 transmissions, which comes with a billet single disc torque converter. The trans works great, OD locks up super hard, have about 3500 miles on it so far, and i have no qualms with how it shifts or how it behaves. Here is my issue. After christmas, drove to northern Ohio (I currently live in southern GA), and of course it was quite a bit colder. The truck sat overnight and it got pretty cold, as it dropped to roughly 15f. When starting it, I let it run for about 5 minutes, and when pulling it into reverse, the engine stalled out. This was new to me. once putting the truck back into P, and trying again, it worked fine. This has happened a few times, and I even reached out to firepunk about this, and they thoughts maybe my PCM commands lockup and that this causes the engine to stall out. I made a test circuit that lights up a LED whenever the PCM commands lockup. With this I was able to prove lockup is working as required. I googled this a bunch, and this is apparently a relatively known issue on VP44 trucks, for the injection pump can't cope fast enough with the added load of the lower stall? I have since started to raise rpm to about 1000 when putting it into gear, essentially power braking it, and this totally works, but I feel like there should be a better solution. The stall is also not extremely abrupt, it really feels more like a car that has the emergency brake pulled, and someone releases the clutch while in gear. The engine loads and dies, it happens within about a second. Further, if the truck happened to stall due to this, once restarted, it powers through it. I am all ears if the smart folk in here have some insight into this, as the approach of "thats just how a VP44 is" doesn't sit right with me. Thanks in advance, and sorry for the long post, I try to be descriptive. Phil P.S.: I was unable to attach a video, so I just threw it on youtube as an unlisted video.

When you find the magic timing on the Quadzilla it should make it hard to warm up just got to add more miles till warmed up.