All Activity

Just a flag or marker there is another error. Use a actual OBDII code reader.

I’ll definitely take a look as soon as I can get back on it. I just realized I have a P1693 code. I also have not yet done the W-T ground wire mod. I’m starting to wonder if this is what’s giving me relay problems

So the pop off fuel from all 6 injectors will bleed off inside the rail in the head that exits the head at the rear of the engine. Then the second line is the return of the VP44 which is the second line to return to the tank. This is what the square cuts o-ring will seal at the rear of the head. I'm talking the return of either of a FASS or AirDog fuel systems use a check ball and spring to control fuel pressure and flow back to the tank for seperating the air bubbles and fuel excess return is on this line. The fitting in the pump will have a black plastic check ball and a spring.

Oh for sure I knew this was a hail mary pass, but I thought why not? I have a message into DAP rep inquiring about any kind of discounts out there. This will be the 2nd Quadzilla I have purchased from them.

I have a service manual but , have not opened it up for this yet. Why is there a return tee and not just a single discharge to tank? I’m pulling and returning from a new fleece sending unit. I’m not sure there is a check valve there . I did a bucket test the other day and confirmed the relay was cycling on and off. Replaced relay and it seemed to have fixed the problem…. Not

All I can say is it would be a very rare event to see an extra Quazilla just floating around. I will admit its worth it to get the Quadzilla and do the tuning that fits your driving style.

Dang! If it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any luck at all. Front speakers got installed and hooked up properly for polarity but now my driver side speaker must of come apart in the wiring. Arrrghh! I'm ordering more door panel retainers. 😖

Actually, you can open this up. The return line to the filler neck to the tank is the fitting you remove, and behind that is a spring and check ball. Just be aware the check ball is plastic and could wedge it way down in the coils of the spring. This is why the sudden change in fuel pressure and then later it pops back up when the vibration shakes it loose again. Here is my new spring for Thor. Yes, you are correct, those square cut o-rings are for the return tee in the rear of the engine on the driver side.

I assume you’re talking about an internal check valve in the pump? I can’t open up pump without voiding warranty. While I got ya , the square cut o rings you mentioned, are they for the return on back of head?

Is the check ball getting shoved back into the spring? I typically bend the tail of the coil over so there is a tail tip in the middle of the coil. This will prevent the check ball from wedging into the coil.

Seems to have fixed it for 100 miles or so. Odd, going to run another bucket test and see what’s going on…… PIA!

So, it sounds like the lift pump relay was not the issue? Symptoms remain the same? John

Lost pressure again today on a short trip. Psi dropped to 15 at cruise, 12 at WOT. Got it home , tuned it off, re keyed it went to 18, started , it dropped to zero , but still ran. Shut it off quickly. Going to get on it again tomorrow

You could just disconnect the fuel pump relay to test a warm start condition. Rig up a jumper wire to hold in your hand while you start the truck - that way you can control when the lift pump runs (or doesn't run) for your test. At least, it would let you know if too high lift pump pressure is causing your long crank on a warm start. John

Starts right up when cold. Slow start is only when warm. Relay is wired to battery and fuse block. There are no psi adjustments on this pump. If I was to attempt by opening up, thus breaking the seal, it would void warranty. Are these square cut o rings the ones for the return on back of head? What type of thread comes out of back of head? Any way to maybe convert this to a jic type fitting? Something without o rings

We can discuss in a private message.

Do we get any kind of a discount buying through DAP? Specifically I am wanting to purchase (again from DAP) the quadzilla with iQuad. Thank you

@Mopar1973Man, that would be you...., John

I can't remember the reason i left and i cant remember my damn email password for my original account. I also sold my dodge so the world is ending as we know it.

Congratulations. Best wishes for the new year

Does this mean NO slow start when the engine is cold? If so, your lift pump pressure may be too high. The OEM fuel pump setup uses PWM (pulse width modulation) to reduce supply voltage to the lift pump, thus reducing fuel pressure, while cranking. The reasoning is that high lift pump pressure during cranking can affect the position of the timing piston, thus making the engine hard to start when warm. Not everyone has experienced this, but some have. Is your relay wired directly from the battery? You could try reducing lift pump pressure to see if this helps starting a warm engine. Don't get caught up in the, "you gotta have at least 14 psi lift pump pressure", as it is not true. Take it down to 12 psi or so at idle and see if that helps. Good to hear you found the problem with the lift pump. John

These are the o rings for the return on back of head? Fuel pump is back on line. 20+ psi at idle, no less than 17psi WOT. Turns out the problem was the relay. Junk I suppose. This was the relay that came with pump. Eklund brand, I think. Funny, FASS gave me a Bosch part # to replace it with. No one carries Bosch where I live , and rather than waiting on an internet order I replaced with another brand that cross referenced from AutoZone. Still have the slow start when warm though

Thank you for that info! Looking at some install photos, I see that is the case. Seems like Timbo has really good pricing on them, and thats with the harness. I assume he gets them from a real supplier and they are not knock-offs. Looking to get one here soon. *QUICK UPDATE* (been sick, out of town, etc... the last 4 weekends!) Just checked alternator AC voltage, was coming in between 0.045 and 0.050 volts. So I might need some diodes here sooner than later. Verified TPS voltage at idle. It was fine, dare I say low. Came in at 0.46 so I turned it up to 0.3 below the spec on the back of the sensor. Verified function to make sure there wasnt any drop out or similar throughout the range, all seemed fine. I have a nice Fluke 115 with fast refresh and graphing, super handy! Thinking this is a sensor giving out while hot. It has been cooler here lately and it hasnt been acting up as easily/often, which makes it tough to verify issues and repairs. A new side quest is that the driver side flex brake line is leaking at the frame side crimp now, so I am going to order up some stainless lines to fix those up proper. This is after the fuel canister drain decided it no longer wanted to seal after being used a couple of times, got that fixed up with a OE Cummins part from Genos. Doing what I can to keep er goin, thats for sure!

Thank you.