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I would love to see the inside of the module!

Hi it was the ecm that was at fault I replaced it with a different unit and it fixed the truck, I had the old unit tested a few times and was told nothing wrong with it, I chased that fault for months

A long post with lots of detail is much better than a short post with little detail. Many sensors (as well as the VP44) ground through the ECM - you can see this in the wiring diagram photo below (terminal #11 and #49 on the ECM). Note that Splice #168 (difficult to read, near terminal #49) is also a ground. When the engine has the rough idle, can you tell if all cylinders are affected, or just one cylinder? Have you checked the mechanical idle stop condition - loose, out of adjustment, etc? I would expect a code, but not necessarily. The APPS is a closed loop system with the ECM and there is an idle validation switch inside the APPS. It is possible that if the APPS adjustment is marginal, the ECM may not see the idle validation switch signal (the ECM controls idle). I wouldn't rule out wiring issues or ground issues at this point. Multi-pin connectors with poor connections can be difficult to find. Performing "wiggle tests" while checking continuity or voltage can help diagnose. It usually works best with two people performing the tests - one doing the wiggle test and the other holding the multi-meter connections steady. John

First I am going to apologize for the length of this post but I want you to have all of the details. We purchased a used 02 24v 3500 dually just about a year ago. It had been sitting so we got it going and just did the basic services, fluids etc. my son drove it about a month and in mid September it developed a weird rough idle after warming up but no other drivability issues. Changed both fuel filters with napa units and no change about a week later the frame broke in half from rust so we parked it. Fast forward to January 26, cab and bed removed, new frame from down south, blasted and painted. truck goes all back together with all new parts, brake lines, fuel lines, shocks, bushings, all frame wiring cleaned up etc. Drivetrain was cleaned up while it was out and any leaks addressed etc, new tires, really fun winter project for us. Mid March, trucks back on the road. Rough idle was gone after we put truck back together. Assumed it was a bad connection, dirty ground, terminal etc. After about 800 miles it comes back so we really start digging in. At this point the truck has never had a code other than we first got it had no communication with Inj pump and turning on headlights would kill motor. That was corrected by redoing the grounds behind the drivers headlight. So no codes and rough idle after warm up Change ECT for good measure cleaned all grounds again Batteries and terminals were all new with rebuild blue chip diesel hot wire test on pump after truck is up to 180 and idling poorly returns truck to smooth perfect idle. this tells me pump, injectors, and fuel delivery are not a culprit truck has airdog pump and Edge monitor with Fuel pressure gauge always steady at 17psi performed WT ground mods remove fuel pump relay to swap with horn and note some green corrosion on main terminals open up PDC and removed 30 and 87 terminals. cleaned thoroughly and reinstalled put brand new fuse in fusebox for feed to fuel pump relay double checked all grounds behind headlight while battery was out for the pdc access Truck runs great, assume all is well. my son drives the truck daily for about a month. 1000 miles or so, towing, etc After a couple day rainy stretch issue comes back. my son claimed he opened underhood fuse box and pushed on fuel pump relay, checked oil, and when he started truck it was fine again. next day rough idle is back again I opened the fusebox and tried messing with relay and then swapping it back with horn, no change. This was about a month ago, still no codes of any kind or any other driveability issues other than idle Since then I have opened the pdc and removed all the fuel pump relay terminals again and cleaned them even though they looked perfect. tested pin 6 and 7 wires from pdc to vp44 no issues, added extra power and ground wires for testing, no change. visually inspected all other wires in pdc for damage and found none, no presence of rodents etc Completely removed EDGE at various times in troubleshooting with no change. sent ecm out for testing and repair to keyworks in Virginia, no issue was found but I did have him follow through with the rebuild, change common failure parts etc. ecm reinstalled and no change in running. performed PCM ground mod with no change. Tested all sensor circuits, 2 and 3 wire. good 5v reference to all tried unplugging one sensor at time with no changes. I did get appropriate codes for each sensor when it was unplugged The only sensor I never unplugged was the cam sensor under the pump inspected all the loom on the harness and didn't see any issues, chafing etc used contact cleaner on connections at pcm, and the two high up on the firewall, also any other connections or sensors I opened one interesting thing to note, the black with a blue trace wire at each sensor is listed as the sensor ground from ecm, this wire has continuity to battery ground at each sensor but that goes away once the ecm harness is disconnected. Is this normal? I always thought sensor ground and body ground were different? Does the ECM connect body ground to the sensor ground pin internally? I also put my meter from sensor ground at ect to battery ground and thoroughly wiggled the whole harness to see if continuity beep stopped. It di not stop Until i removed ecm plug I am at the end of my list of things to try. Anybody got any ideas lol? We love the truck and just want it back to normal.

Any updates on the diagnosis Mopar dude? I found this thread rather interesting and loved reading all the good tips

I just installed a brand-new actuator on the 2016 Ram 2500 Laramie CCSB 4x4 I got a week and half ago. It had the U010C code and installing the new actuator and then using alfaobd to calibrate it, worked great! I don't have a core charge for it, so I could open it up and look for any telltale signs of damage.

Hello all, long time member circa 2012. Been awhile since I've been on here. Sold my old 2nd gen back in 2014, got a 3rd gen, had a kid, 3rd gen seized up sold it, no time to fix it...I know I know. Anyways im in boise now and currently have a 2nd gen dually 6 speed. Look forward to contributing again and meeting everyone

Depends on the series. Thor has the quiet towing dual organic clutch disc and it is quiet. This has the spring kit on the center disc to reduce rattle noise. Beast has the performance series dual organic clutch disc and its rather loud throw-out bearing noise and center disc rattle.

I believe it's just that the plastic got weak. I'm fairly sure that I've got it adjusted correctly according to South bend's instructions. I've heard the Valair dual disc's are very quiet, especially compared to south bend. Would you say yours are quiet?

For an AIO (All in One) package, it's a super nice and super easy to install in your PC or server case. In my case, I opted for the server case because the machine is running 24 hours a day and 7 days a week. Easy to install. The radiator is already prefilled with coolant and all the needed additives. Seal cooling system. During the install you have the option of which way you want the fans to blow. Since the radiator is in the front face of the case, I'm blowing inward into the case so all heat rises in the rear of the server case and allows the top case fan to blow the heat out. I set the motherboard features up to run as silently as possible. The water pump is only powered 80% right now. The fans ar even lower at 50% power level. You can see the CPU performance keeping the internal core temperature down. Hence why the text color is blue. 43℃ is 109℉, pretty cool right there. Internal cores. 26℃, which is 78℉. The server is always busy recording camera footage and handling system backups for all of our devices. Workstations are automatically done once a week but a hitch is if the machine isn't used the backup is missed. Soon I'll create a way for the server to wake up workstations to run maintenance like backups and other tasks.

As for everyone. I'm putting a foot down and no longer going to be told what to do. If you don't like what you see...

The PCM connector & pins are nice & clean. I have good continuity between pin 85 at the ASD & pin 3 on C3 of the PCM. And also good continuity between ASD pin 87 & PCM pin 12 on C3. Mine is a little different than the diagram you have posted. On mine, the ASD pin 86 gets battery constant power just the same as pin 30. Both get power through the PDC joint connector #2, which is just a terminal jumper in the PDC. I'd also suspect a PCM fault, but I had sent that out for testing & repairs a few months ago. It was returned with no problems found. Not saying they couldn't have made a mistake or something happened since then, but I'm hesitant to think the PCM is faulty.... Here's a diagram of what I have. Thanks!

I have. Done it several years ago actually. Grounds are all attached to the timing case and alternator connected to the passenger battery Battery cables have also been replaced and i have the heavy duty copper lugs bolted in to the napa “military style” terminals (napa part# 728222 for one of them, positive and negative are different numbers) They are really awesome and give a good solid connection since they have thru bolts.

Hmmm... I know in the documents section of downloads, there is a copy of the transmission service manual. My problem I've only been working on manuals most of my life, rare to see automatics, and even then, most are still working properly.

Cancer battle 2018 Christmas & 2023 Christmas. Shop destroyed by landslide, May 29 2025. I am no longer capable of mechanical work for the public. Slowly, I'm starting to do little things when my back and lower body allow me to do them. Then, the aftermath of getting a job done, like the injection pump, which turned into a mess of its own. 4 days of trying to work only when the weather is not threatening rain. Still very focused on getting the mess out of my yard. The spruce tree is nearly dead now from beetle kill. The yard is a mess and I don't even have a lawnmower since it was crushed by the north wall of the shop. My Fire Chief and his wife are going to setup up with there backhoe and start loading the trash out so I can clear the ground. Two trees to cut down. Then start loading dirt into the backyard level the ground out. Then there was a period where all we had to manage the website was our cellphones and my laptop. I lost both desktop computers on the same day. It was difficult back then, since neither one of us had much income. Between my medical expenses and driving back and forth. Now we have all the computers replaced, then built a home server for the cameras, networking, and communications. Now I've have good PCs that can do serious work with no problems. Which is why I brought back my other business name of Cloud 10 Computers. I'm going to support the Linux realm and networking for anyone who wants a rock-solid PC and near bulletproof software. Don't judge too hard, I've got wiring to do, yet I have cameras to hang and ports to wire into the house. Now, as for travel, we are already trying to fix up the RV for traveling to meet some of you. Like I know I need to plan a trip out to see that man listen to me whine about my cancer and all the BS I went through. I've been working on getting a few modifications done so we can dry camp with our CPAP machine and not worry about power. I've been designing an 800w solar roof setup for a dual battery system. Again, don't judge to harsh its a work in progress, and more cleaning up to come. I need room for the 200 AH LiFePO4 battery I'm going to stuff down here. The old Harbor Freight solar is being trashed and a new Bluetooth controller will be installed down here, tied to 2 AGM batteries on the tongue and then the LiFePO4 battery in this cabinet. @Tweety Bird and I tested this out last night, and it worked great so far. Now to do a full dry camping experience. My problem was that the original power wire from the batteries to the fuse panel was weak and dropping voltage quickly. Now upgrade to 6 AWG and a solid connection into the house, and the voltage is solid! I might be quiet at times, I'm just so busy. Even toss in a VP44 and tappet cover gasket on Beast. Dang cover was alreaady starting to leak and been doing good and the gasket feels pliable but is not sealing as well. Now the DAP Wire Tap Warranty pump. Mine died after 200k or so miles with a violent key-off motion. P1689! Beast still brought the RV home from Boise without another complaint. Beast is back up and running. RV is repaired. Even the server you guy play on is repaired. Even did about 4 hours of chatting with Google AI (Gemini) to find a few places to gain speed ofr the website and make it faster. Fixing code issues also found a few setting that were well MISSING. Whole config file for cahcing was missing. Then I'm heading towards 3 years of daily makeup artistry now. Now, for all you if you're wondering about this. I met my wife wearing my black and blue wig and then black and blue makeup. Some of you may be going What? Well, Titanium was created to help me with depression, stress, and anxiety, which was crazy after coming out of surgery, and your doctor tells you you are going to die. He wasn't sure if I had cancer in my body moving past my bladder wall. Yeah, this scared me. I didn't handle this well alone and have some tell you that you might not make it. Ok, so why waste time? I went to party mode and enjoyed the idea of dressing in Goth styles. This is why my wife fell in love with me, between taking care of my mother with kidney failure and then battling bladder cancer twice. Even while at home for the day, I typically get up, shower and do makeup before leaving the house. Hence, all my posts of Titanium in that section. The fact I deal with this bag on my belly for the rest of my life. I found ways of dressing with mostly black I can hide it completely. Why be normal after all this. I'm allowed to go NUTS! As I was after having my head stuffed in that little cabinet doing wire work. Wore my glasses so my nose art failed (Smeared).

Have you done the W-T ground wire mod yet?

Double-check the PCM socket for any damage or corrosion. Which should be pin 85 of the relay. The PCM controls the ground to Pin 85. Then pin 86 gets ignition power to energize the relay. If you do not have a ground signal, then the PCM would need to be sent in to be rebuilt. I would send it off to Auto Computer Specialists in Florida. Here shortly, I'll be sending Thor's ECM to get the exhaust brake circuit fixed.

Another update & today's puzzler. I had the truck running with a jumper wire at the ASD terminals (between the battery & load terminals) which I was very happy to hear it run & find the area the problem is from. While going through different things with it I had the relay back in at one point & it functioned properly (dash lights good & no error). So I wondered about a faulty connection and/ or wire. I lifted the Power Distribution Center (PDC) & removed the lower cover to see if any corrosion or faulty wires underneath. Also looked at the big square harness connector that connects to the PDC. Everything looks good. I put the PDC back in place along with the harness connector. Then I tested continuity between the 2 ASD relay terminals that connect to the PCM- 1 is the trigger for the relay & the other sends power to PCM. Both circuits were good. So I put it all back together & checked the relay itself. It functions OK & has continuity between the switched terminals. So with that everything SEEMED OK. I used a pick & tightened the ASD terminal openings in the PDC just in case there was a bad connection to the relay. I checked another relay also (also worked fine) & just swapped it with the ASD spot. Put everything back together, hopeful that it was working, & unfortunately the same problem- gauges aren't working & NO BUS error in odometer. So, I jumpered the ASD terminals again & this time the cluster works fine, but it won't fire. I then retested the ASD terminals. Both the battery slots have voltage. I don't get a ground on control wire from the PCM though like I should. Until I jumper the battery & load wires. Then I get a ground signal from the PCM. That doesn't make sense because I'd think the PCM has to first signal the relay to work before the relay can send power, but it's not triggering the ASD until it's jumpered. Any thoughts are welcome. Thanks

Beast got his new VP44 injection pump. Been a long while since I've done long work like this, wow! I can feel it all through my shoulders and arms from hanging upside down over the tappet cover and injection pump. Few flaws I did on that job. I got sidetracked by people coming and going, and then forgot to tighten the 1,2,4 injection lines at the pump, and couldn't figure out the diesel fuel smell. D'Uh! 🫣 Tighten all that up, and Beast came to life. To test Beast out, I packed up the next day and went to the local C&M Lumber. No wire taps yet, but I will soon be reinstalling my BD Stealth Plate. I ran up and got 20 feet of 6 AWG wire and a few bags of copper ring terminals. Yeah, work time in the RV. The main power lead into the house is bad and dropping voltage. Since I already have the 6 AWG from the battery to the inverter I opted for making that my main lead in the house, which is double is size from the mere 14 AWG main line coming from the factory wiring. Rebuilt the entire power cabinet and re-laid out everything. Now the power issues of the past RV trip are no longer an issue for our future trip to Boise for medical. Wife still has a shoulder issue that needs to be dealt with. All this was repairs from the failed trip to Boise, where we made it down to Boise, but the VP44 injection pump failed out with a P1689 code. While travelling back. Then, even the next time I wanted to move Beast to repair. VP44 threw the P1689 code again.

Just following up- Im gonna order a new rectifier. Looks like INR734P. Seems like the most logical route and what i can reasonably afford right now. I have to tow a large 5th wheel Saturday so heres to hoping this rectifier gets it fixed and i get the part in by friday so i can get the repair done

Update! Hello all, I finally made significant progress on the '02 Cummins with NO BUS message & crank/ no start. I've found that the Auto Shut Down relay is not being activated. I jumped the power to load terminal where the relay fits into the Power Distribution Center & things in the dash began to function correctly- all the gauges were working, the wait to start light worked, & no more NO BUS message is displayed in the odometer. The fuel pump is also working as normal. I had to bleed the injector lines & crank on it a bit, but it now runs again. I still have to find why the ASD relay isn't being powered & repair, but I at least know WHERE the problem is coming from. Thanks for your help guys!

So i got lucky and found a fluke here at work. My coworkers was just a klein for household use but one of the work trucks had a good fluke onboard i didn’t know was there. Anyhow. The results i got after a 20 minute commute followed by 30 minutes of idling. No extra loads the only thing running was the engine, radio was on but nothing playing. The mVAC fluctuated as low as 24 and as high as 38. As for which alternator i have, i cant see any markings but it’s got the two wire plug on the back and the alternator lug located on the back as well approx an inch and a half away from the two wire Just a follow up edit: After some searching I found that i have the Nippon Denso alternator not the bosch based on part images on oreilly website. Secondly, i followed the suggestion to unplug the alternator plug and disconnect the charge wire. So I did that as soon as i got home. The lock/unlock issue persisted while i was on my way home and after unplugging it the truck ran perfectly as it should. So at this point i can only reason that the alternator and/or diodes are the culprit. What I do want to reiterate is that ive had this problem before but it manifested in a completely different way. Previously it was almost non stop rapid succession of lock/unlock. This time was very sporadic and unpredictable and nothing like the first time. Now i must decide on a whole alternator, a diode pack, or is it a reasonable idea to install a second diode between the alternator and the battery. The alternator is the original alternator from 2000 and it now has 221k miles on it, i did replace the diode pack around 2018 which was about 60k or 70k miles ago.

I've got some of the older diodes with the post in the back of the alternator. Most alternator shops sell the diode packs for ND alternators. Bosch on the other hand, is soldered diodes so those are a bit different.