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Good thinking on your part! - John

Well I think the old man's truck is fixed... I had a gut feeling before tearing into the trans, something less invasive should be attempted first, after some more reading about the 47re online, and noting some "weird" issues caused by the output speed sensor, we removed the OSS and found this. ,(see picture) Installed a new speed sensor and he took it for a test drive, got it up to operating temperature and drove 30 miles round trip with NO issues, and most important,no random kicking out of overdrive. Which before you couldn't go 5 miles without it happening.

All I can say is don't call either Cummins or Dodge dealers because they will not help you. They will request the truck be brought to their shop for repair even though you tell them your already a diesel repair shop and just need information. Cummins Care - (800) 286-6467 Dodge Corporate - (800) 334-9200 Remember ECM stuff is all Dodge corporate and will not get any information for and Cummins electronics.

Oh ill find it for sure. I've got the gift of gab. I can always talk to some one and get it.

Now I've got a 4G LTE cell tower here at my place. Its barely a 0.1 Watt extender but the signal reaches out the office area quite well. Internet Provided by Starlink / Space X Cell service provided by Verizon Network Provided by TP-Link (ER605 Gateway and SG2428 Managed Switch) WiFi Provided by TP-Link (EAP225) Shared Network Printer (MF4150 Cannon Laser Printer) Ubuntu 24.04 Linux Operation System 1 TB Hard drive for storage Picture below of the new Verizon Extender and its now fired up and providing 4G LTE service across my property. Then had to share my server cabinet. It's slowly coming together now. Now have a network shared printer off my server that all of us can access and use from any device including printing documents from a cellphone too.

That would be great info to have on hand. Hopefully you can get a reliable and accurate source for those chime codes.

So the last run i was getting P0301 code for misfire cylinder 1 which you could hear clearly. Not to mention it was my repaired terminal injector. Back out all 6 injectors came out again and I got @dieselautopower Lenny is going to bench test them again. See if we can get Thor to run right without all the grid heater chimes. Refused to hold prime too. im going to call around and find the answers to the grid heater chimes and what they mean. Im going to find it and be the first website with the info. No more grid heater might means injector replacement but understand the difference in chime count.

There are going to be changes but looks wise similar to version 4. I've taken some time and looked over the new software which we will be going from version 4 to version 5 very soon. There will be things like light and dark themes for mobile users. This will help extend battery life for mobile users. I'm looking at changing the forums a bit to include solved markers so if you are hunting for a quick solution it will be linked at the top and take you directly to the solution. Right now 3rd party softwares are not even close to ready like Collection (aka Garage), member map, etc. At this time I'm going to drop all 3rd party and reintroduce them as they catch up. Why this push? It might a while for 3rd party apps to catch up. I want to keep the site secure and all updates on version 4 will most likely stop soon. I'm looking for bringing all the core products back online. Forums and articles of course will stay. Im bringing a high quality photo gallery for your truck photos. Then I'm going to fire up Blogs between my medical adventures that continues and my makeup artistry of Titanium. @Tweety Bird has busy working at updating terms of use and privacy policies. We are going to optimize our personal info on you and your truck so we can either contact by phone or here on the website to optimize our support for you and your truck issue. We want to provide the best we can for the subscribing members. Me personally, my focus is to continue to write 3rd Gen articles on Thor as we continue to modify Thor to be our next daily driver. Yup you heard that right. Beast is nearly 500k and will retire to be the secondary fallback vehicle and RV tow rig. Thor will be getting all fixed up and mm3 or Smarty Touch added then tuning will start there too. Focus on getting Thor near 30 MPG as Beast has done already. Stick around, ask questions, we will keep you posted.

Just a heads up to everyone. We will be updating the website to Invision Community 5 this week. There will be a few changes to the layout and appearance. The website will have additional and new features. We are excited to implement these changes and to make modifications to better serve all of our website users. More developments to come... Be safe and stay tuned!

YES! Then you need the proper software on both ECM and PCM and everything works out fine.

@Mopar1973Man do I need to put the original harness back in that had the crank sensor plug or use the harness that came with manual truck that does not have a crank sensor plug by starter? Also one thing I did notice is the manual motor is isb235 and the automatic motor is isb215 not sure if that makes a difference

Contact @Auto Computer Specialist and they can flash program both ECM and PCM for manual software and get the right software for your application to reduce the weirdness. More on the different series of 24V... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/swapping-vp44-cummins-engine-between-985-00-01-02-r429/?do=getNewComment&d=4&id=429

You could look towards @Auto Computer Specialist which is listed in our vendor listing... They can do PCM and ECM repairs. If the cluster is damaged then that can be handled by Module Masters in Moscow Idaho. https://mopar1973man.com/vendor.htm/vendor/auto-computer-specialist-r5/?do=getNewComment&d=7&id=5

01-02 all have their crank sensors on the timing case by the VP44. My 01 does and has a blank plug in the old spot by the starter. If you don’t have any crank sensor hooked up whether old style or new style your gonna have a problem. The ecm needs to see engine timing. Once that is figured out all you need to do is take your truck to a dealership and have them program the ecm/pcm against the vin so it’ll act like it originally intended.

Hey there, im in desperate need of figuring out ecm/pcm problems. I own 2000 automatic 4wd truck, a mechanic said the original ecm was bad so he sourced an ecm p/n 3947912(2002?) truck would start and run but rpm would cut out after 5 seconds of run time.(im aware newer years didn’t have a crank sensor). Fast forward i bought a 2000 donor truck with a manual transmission , I removed the ecm/pcm and all wiring harnesses under the hood and swapped them to my truck(one thing i noticed on the donor truck was it has a crank sensor by the starter but nothing was plugged into it and there was no pigtail in the harness) so i swapped all mentioned above into my truck and I’m still having the same rpm issue as well as throwing a code for no crank sensor signal. Do I need to swap the entire fusebox wiring harness and whatever is included on it to get my truck to not try and read the crank sensor signal?

Just read it, and thanks for the diagram. So what's the best way to test this, just start unplugging these connectors, or use a scope? One more thing: I've had the ABS light on for a while, and one time I went to the dealer (to check the ABS code, and the tech said their DRB3 tool couldn't communicate with the module. Unplugging the ABS connector doesn't make the gauges come back or no bus go away though. I lose some gauges right away, but the others are delayed by about 5 seconds. That, to me seems like component failure in the PCM. The manual does say if the resistance of the PCM ground is less than 10 ohms, replace the PCM. Mine tested at 0.1 ohms. I'm doing the W/T ground mod anyway, but it seems like it may be too late. Maybe alternator noise killed the VP44 and the PCM? It was 50 mV when I checked.

Check the CCD Bus article https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/ccd-chrysler-collision-detection-data-bus-r329/

Looks like a good little shift kit. Pay attention to the drill locations.

2001 3500, manual A few months ago, 'no bus' showed up on my gauge cluster, and the gauges died. Truck started and ran fine, but no gauges after a few seconds past startup. Was driving it on short trips until it started stumbled and started getting loud fuel knock going down the road at 45. Brought it home, let it sit for a week. Next time I fired it up, it was smoking really good at idle, and cleared up when it was warm, but it's down on power pretty good once warm. Codes pulled at this point are: P0237, P0234, P1698, P0216 I reset the codes and only P0216 and P1698 came back. Gauge codes are 920, 921, 940 ,950, 999 I'm going to do the W/T ground mod and check my other grounds, because I'm wondering how the PCM and VP44 both miraculously crapped out at the same time. Alternator to battery shows ~50mv of ac. Ground test from pass fender ground to 31 of PCM C1 connector shows 0.1 ohms. Have 12v B+ and IGN+ on pcm connector. 0.1 ohms at pin 31 of PCM is bad PCM according to FSM, so I shipped it off to a place last week and they said it was good, but I'm finding that hard to believe given what I've seen. Here's what they said: I guess I'm going to dig into CCD stuff next. Any other ideas? When I first got the truck a few years ago, the gauges weren't working, but I replaced the cluster and didn't have any problems until no bus. I also re-did my dash two years ago and changed the CTM to the high line truck that I got the interior from. My truck is a base model, but had to make the harness match. I figured this was all pertinent information, but I drove for a while before any issues of no bus came up.

Awsome lived for 20 yr. Last time north of Dallas by Denton then a company i was with moved me here still ride back from time to time to visit friends and family reunions . Grew up most in Oregon and Washington dad moved alot.

So at this point i'm thinking we should do the band adjustments and a solenoid upgrade. What do y'all think about this kit. https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/OPT-A518-A618-EL.html also want opinions on maybe doing a shift kit too? https://superiortransmission.com/product/superior-k500-618-l/

Full part number books... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/

You guys!...., that piston is not in backwards - that cylinder is only supposed to be used when backing up! - John