3rd Generation Dodge

I have just aquired a S06POD. i programed my 04. to software 3. drove it a few miles. not much of a differnace. not what i was expecting anyhow. then went to sw9. now down low i see very little differance, but mid throttle it jumps and runs nice. I'm compairing this to my older 02. i had an edge comp on that one. and lemme tell you, when you load the skinny peddle it'd set you back in the seat, it pulled hard. this truck even on 9 i don't feel pulls all that hard. i get very little black smoke. i have not adjusted my waste gate. as i have yet to learn how (pointers welcome). before i get flamed to much, i do not have gauges as of yet. i do not know what my rail pr…

I asked about this 6 months ago and cant seem to find it. But anyway trans shift patter is all over the place. Today rpm 2300 and would not shift, let off the throttle and it would shift. Some times it will skip 2nd and go into third shift back down to 2nd then back to third. Someone suggested pressure solenoid and something else, I need help with what something else is. lol

OK, thinking its time to pick up some gauges. So if we are talking a max of three, or if I don't even need three, what are the most important gauges to get in order of importance? Running the Smarty S06 on 5. Is that in my sig line? Ya it is.

Did some routine maintenance yesterday. Changed the OEM FF and the GDP 2 micron secondary FF. I also changed the engine oil and filters. Went with my usual oil filter LF3972 and a Scott 1000 roll of TP. Only difference is that I went back to WallyWorld SuperTech 15W40. I had been using Valvoline Premium Blue for the last few years because I found a great deal on it after I had the "timing cover" gasket replace several years ago................and bought a "stash" of it for cheaper than the SuperTech. I've got 211,5xx on the clock on MightyWhitey; and I see no reason to change my complete yearly changes with a TP change and a quart of "make-up" oil half way t…

My nephew has a 2005, the heat exchanger leaked antifreeze into his transmission! He is getting the tranny rebuilt and wants to install a better cooler and delete the heat exchanger ($1000.00 for a new one) thoughts please!

the aluminum drive line i see people talking about. my truck QCLB, has the two piece shaft. i'v read many comments about the aluminum one wearing out. what wears out? do they twist? stretch? please enlighten me.

So after helping my dad change the trans filter on his duramax i got to thinking, could i install something like this on my truck? would save the dropping the pan... maybe it woulnd't be worth it. thoughts ideas??? thanks.

I'm just wondering if the 06 has the silencer ring. If it does and I removed it would that help the turbo spool up sooner?

Backing into a parking spot I heard a clunk. After looking around I see the tierod hanging down. I was just traveling 70 mph not 1/2 mile before this happened. Not in a good mood. I can not afford this type of brake down right now, my OCD won't let me just replace the broken one, I'll have to do them all. How n why this broke I haven't a clue. It's a totally stock truck no oversized tires no real off road driving maybe a few miles on a gravel road a few times a year.

I would like to verify with the gang here its a simple transducer on the high side pipe that needs replacing for 2006 Dodge 2500 Cummins. No compressor and there is 100 psi of Freon in the system. But I'm getting P0533 code of A/C transducer hi volt.

Just wanted to report that on the previous oil changed I used NAPA's 15w-40. Went 5000 miles and had the oil analyzed. The NAPA oil did better than the premium blue I had been using. They told me their oil was made by Valvoline, so I was a bit surprised that it tested better than premium blue.

So does anyone know what the map is for the HE351cw turbo? The reason for asking is I'm able to push this turbo to about 50psi with 100hp injectors on a 2nd gen truck. I currently have the waist gate set at 45psi and I know at WOT I can hit almost 50psi.

so after my long trip i was doing my inspection and noticed that i lost two bolts. the ones that hold the intercooler onto the top radiator support. then from looking inside,, there are no nuts... for said bolts to thread into... help.... maybe one LONG bold from the radiator side all the way through? with a nert? anyone have or know of a parts diagram i can look at to retrieve the parts i need....? without headed to the stealership? thanks again guys!!!

P2121........................I get this one and P2122 and P2123 from time to time. I really think it's got something to do with the fan clutch thing that I linked a while back in another thread. Here's another link from CompD about it........http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136329 Pay attention to TxDiesel007's posts about this.

Hey guy's , my "wait to start " indicator quit working a couple days ago. No apparent performance issues, the grid heaters are still cycling like normal ( I can see the voltage pull down a few times when I first light it up). No other apparent engine related symptoms, starts and runs just like she should. The only issues I have with it is one of the rear power door locks ceased to function, and occasionally the shift indicator doesnt fully recognize it's in park and sounds the horn when I open the door I just tap the shifter up towards park and that takes care of it so I'm assuming it just needs adjusted. Anyone have any ideas of where to start looking? i did the …

so after having my truck servised 3 weeks ago, getting ready for a week long vaca to Colorado, i got new brakes and rotated tires. everyting else check out good. yesterday i was driving next to a rather quiet car and head a grinding noise, i'm thinking wow Mr. you need to get your car looked at, then today, driving next to a guard rail. i hear this grinding noise, i'm headed for home. i take my rear tires off looking for the noise maker and find. after removinfg the brakes and doing further inspection i get needless to say, i'll never trust another soul to work on my truck. i usually do 98% of the work myself, i was booked up and had no time, so i paid someone e…

Found a set of new reman 04.5-07 injectors on a local classified site and have never heard of this company. http://www.gbreman.com/catalog.aspx Just wondering if anyone has any experience or info on this company. The price the guy is asking for a set of 6 remans from this company is almost too good to be true so am wondering of quality ect.

So here is my truck the day I brought it home And here it is the next day. Needed a tool box. It's an 06 4x4 big horn with a manual trans. I have an air raid intake tube and a Flowmaster muffler. Other than that it's stock.

So I was looking at the smarty tuner site, thinking about a tuner, and trying to figure out which would be best for me and my truck. I like the price of the JR. better than the S06 and I'm wondering if I really need the bigger tuner. I got this truck to pull my TT and some day I might go up to a 5er. I will tow my Harley and maybe a boat. So that's the extent of the weight. It's also my daily driver. Not planning on using the truck for any commercial purpose. I won't be building a race truck and I don't want the truck belching smoke. I have a Flowmaster muffler and an airraid intake tube.If I have to change injectors I will probably go with the Smarty 50 hp injectors( whi…

So I use my '05 3500 SRW 4x4 w/SWB mostly for recreational purposes. I carry a LEER canopy when I am not carrying my slide in camper and I may haul things in the bed like building materials, rototillers and light machine equipment. I sometimes tow a trailer and I tow a boat sometimes with the camper on and sometimes without the camper on but I don't really use the truck as a work truck. In March of this year I decided to work on my tranny in anticipation of carrying more weight with my truck. I wanted it built specifically for towing and not racing. I planned to install a PacBrake as well and knew it would be better overall to do some mods so I could get more out of the…