3rd Generation Dodge

Hey Hey! I have a 05 CTD that will not hold prime in the fuel filter housing. To date I have done: New FCA, Fuel pressure regulator, relief valve, New transfer pump and module in the tank. Checked the supply and return line to the filter housing from, the tank, no leaks. tightened all injector fuel tubes. double checked all injector lines, no problems or defects. Checked my fuel supply to the CP3 660 Mil. in 10 seconds. Hot engine CP3 return to the tank 700 Mil in 60 seconds. Checked injectors return hot engine to tank 100 Mils in 60 seconds. Replaced all banjo washers with Tork Teks. Replaced the rubber hoses to and from the CP from filter housing. Also carefully …

All the gauges on my dash are not working. I went 400 miles yesterday and only 2.9 miles were registered on the odometer. Some times the speedo and tack will work for a couple seconds together then shut off. The gas gauge comes on for a couple seconds once in a while. the check engine light is always on when the gauges are not working. No codes. The dash originally started having problems with the ABS light coming on and off. None of the gauges work now.

I've gone back to my stock air box after finding some grim and dirt on my turbo fins. My question is there a quick and easy way to clean the inside of a turbo and it's fines. This may sound dumb, but on my 01, I used a can of spray carb cleaner. It worked, but I'm not sure its a good idea.

found this on youtube, 2 cycle vs diesel clean burn test. very enlightening.

Anybody running this fuel additive? I ran it in my 06 when I had it and my dad has been running it in his 06 for about 2 years. Seems like pretty good stuff. I need to order more but just seeing what your guys opinions on it are. $180 shipped isnt too bad, espcially at 300/1 in the winter. http://www.amalgamatedinc.com/

Anyone have any pointers or tool suggestions for splitting the NVG 271D/F tcase housing? I am about to tackle one this weekend. I've done about 4 or 5, but I always struggle with getting the halves to split. Is there a tool or something I can make that will go between the lugs on the halves, to spread the pieces apart? I've always used a hammer, punch, wood, whatever I can get my hands on to beat them apart.. I'd like maybe a simpler solution. Thanks.

HOLY COW, boys and girls!!!!!! I couldn't believe how "black" (non-racist description) the water was even after 2 rinses of the SimpleGreen and Water solution!!!! Had I known how dirty it was, I would've taken pix!!!! After soaking for 30 minutes in the SG&water, I dumped the bucket and was absolutely shocked!!!! In total I did 4 rinses. All that said however, the intake tube is spotless as far as I can reach into it, so I think all is well. The truck does seem to pull a bit better now with less throttle!!

Is it possible to pull an automatic headlamp switch and sun load sensor from a 2005+ Dodge Dakota and install it into my 2007 Dodge Ram 3500? I know the switch is an exact fit and the wire pin out is the same but I don’t know if the sun load sensor can be used in conjunction to make the system a working automatic headlight system. I am wondering and hoping that it may be an easy upgrade like adding fog lights with the preexisting wiring. I know that there is always the option of installing the 545T Nite-Lite aftermarket automatic headlight system, but I would rather use the factory switch with the “A” setting. I know that a lot of people don’t care…

Was wondering what issues I might have doing the swap? I realize that the newer turbo is a larger and more efficient. How should I go about dealing with the electronic wastegate, downpipe etc....

Have 2005 Ram 3500, Nv5600 trans, completely rebuilt 100,000 miles ago, started jumping out of 6th gear, when decelerating, tore down, replaced 6th gear, syncronizer slider, and filled with gear oil, because recommendation for fluid is too thin, still jumping out of 6th, any recommendations????

I just turned 110,000 on the clock today. That makes; by my math, 70,000 miles without a complete oil change!!!! I installed it at 40,000 on the clock. :thumbsup :thumbsup I love my MotorGuard TP bypass!!!

I just installed a reman 5.9 in a 2007 2500 4x4 started truck and idled fine went to test drive started to accelerate could hear the turbo start to build boost and then it started knocking and smoking bad

Changed the fluid in my 11.5 rear end and used Mobil 1 Full syn. 75w-90. I have since read that the AAM rear end may call for something different. Manual calls for GL-5 syn. I believe. Mopar's fluid says for use in AAM axels. Is this marketing hype or legidement need?

Hey everyone! I just purchased a 2008 2500 4x4 Auto Laramie with total wife approval. Truck is all stock except what's noted below. I know gauges are important with diesels (I've had a '99 for years), but admittedly I'm not sure what gauges are necessary for the 6.7L. My plans for the truck are primarily daily driving with some light towing. Currently, the truck has been deleted with a mini maxx installed by the previous owner and has been on the "street" tune. So, is my transmission safe on that tune or should I change it to the stock tune? And what gauges do you recommend? Thanks!

I have replaced all my fluids except tranny. anybody tell me when I drop my pan how many quarts will it take to fill it back up with stock pan. does trans pan have a gasket that I need to replace or not. and how difficult is it to tighten the bands.

Is it a 3rd gen?

driver side air works great very cold air but the passenger side is probably 30-40 degrees warmer any ideas. any help would be great and appreciated

I am going to install a air dog 100 on my truck this week. Should i just order the fuel bowl delete or cap (plug) the supply lines on it somehow? What would i use for that? Does anyone have any tips on installing the draw straws?

Gathering parts for my filter setup. I ordered Baldwin 7633 and a Donaldson p551313. I think those are both filters. I thought the 7633 was also a water/separator. If not I guess I got extra fuel filters.

I must have goofed the install, thou it made it miles over 7K miles, of which over 3K were towing before it popped... About a 5 minute fix. I was able to still easily hold 65 and get to work at about 800° and 2-3 psi.