2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I am posting this for my friend (neighbor to my mother). He has a 24V Ram, '01 I think. Anyhow, he has been fighting the lock-unlock problem for a while. I had him pull the alternator fuse and try it. Same thing, no change. I also put a multi-meter on the alt to test for AC voltage and it was .013 volts at the highest. I suggested checking the trailer plug and possibly the brake light switch. He did say that if he cleaned the battery terminals and reset the APPS it might be good for two months or two days. What else should he check?

Hello all! I have developed a hard start/ long crank after the truck sits for awhile, even if just over night. I thought the bat's where bad so I had them checked and they were good. They guy at the local shop that does just starters and alternators has a 2nd gen. Cummins and thought it cranked a little slow so I put in a rebuilt starter.( I took it apart when I got home just to see and they did put in oversized contacts like the ones from Larry B's ). WOW! It cranks almost twice as fast now. Thought I solved my problem but the next morning it still cranked for 3-5 seconds til it started. Used to be it would roll over 1 time and light off and it is still that way when it…

So hear it is the best i can figure. I went out camping on 7-2 half way to our destination the truck started rolling coal like no tomorrow. I could fog out 4 lanes of traffic on a dangerous 6% grade, but if I could get on top of the RPM's it was fine. 1600 RPM's or better i made sure the overdrive was off, my T/C lock up switch was off. If I would just apply a very little amount of throttle and i mean less than 1/4" of movement it would start to haze then just roll black. All of the issues seamed to be with me hooked up to the trailer that weights in at 7600/lb. So I limped it home on 7-11. Then took the truck out for a drive well the issue is still there. Took it out to …

I recently went through the whole T/C lockup problem and found it to be a bad ground. I fixed the issue and no problems until today. It started going in and out of lockup in 3rd and 4th but not like it was doing before. Before it was at steady throttle now it does it at different throttle positions. Also I just got a P0336 code. My question is will a Crankshaft Position Sensor cause T/C lockup issues or am I getting the code because of T/C lockup problem?

I have a 98.5 4x4 5 speed that is box stock truck with 200k miles and was wondering what the max boost would be if I put a boost fooler and a boost elbow or just capped of the waste gate line. I am not looking to make goobs of power but wondered if I will see any power increase or if it will hurt my engine in any way . From what I learned many years ago as a owner operator the more air with the same fuel rate would drop the EGTs. I have installed a full set of gauges and will be ordering a Fass DDRP in a week or so. I can get a max of 20 PSI at wot before it defuels or opens the waste gate or both and if there is any more power to be had I would to be able to use it if ne…

I have been looking for the Crankcase Vent on my 98.5 24 Valve Cummins. I can not find it so I looked in the Haynes Dodge Repair Manuel. On page 2B-8 photo 9.3a it shows a 1994 thru 1998. On page 2B-9 photo 9.3d it shows a photo of the 2000 model. No where does it show or refer to a 1998.5 or 1999 Crankcase Vent. The oil filler cap on the valve cover does not appear to be vented, there must be a Crankcase Vent some where on this Cummins. Any one know?

Put a stick through the bottom of my radiator last night.... @#*&* Just got on and was browsing through for some internet options and one thing I am seeing quite frequently is the option of a 2 row or a 3 row radiator...Never having the pleasure of having to pull one I am ignorant to what is in there, although I am assuming it must be a 2 row because I can't see them offering anything less than OEM standard. That's surprising to me, I always ASSumed it was at a minimum of a 3 row or a 4. I'm guessing due to the surface area, a 2 row was sufficient for these motors. I wouldn't mind upgrading to a 3 row but the truth is I have NEVER seen my truck overheat and the 3 …

I've decided to go a different route on my truck, so I am going to sell my HE351CW turbo. I figured I would post this turbo on here and see if anyone was interested in it before throwing it up on CF. It came off of an 05 cummins with about 130xxx miles on it. I got it, built a manual wastegate for it (I have pictures of everything) and put a batmowheel on it. What do you guys think it is worth? I have the cost of the turbo, 400$ in the batmowheel 60$ in the wastegate plug from DAP and a few other odds and ends. If anyone here is interested PM me and we can talk. If you have a guess of what is is worth let me know! Thanks - Tyler

Is there a wiring extension that can be bought that will allow me to install my code reader plug to my dash for easy access?

I finally isolated oil leak , seal between vacum pump and power steering pump is leaking, ordered parts. Has anybody done this without removing vacum pump, just removing steering pump? Just curious if it is possible. I don't have a problem taking both off, just wondering if it is necessary. Thanks

I have only pulled real heavy a couple of times with this truck and both times my engine temperature gets pretty hot when pulling steep grades for a long period of time. During these grades I try to keep my EGTs around 1100-1200* but my engine temp spikes--getting real close to the 240* mark on the guage. As soon as I get over the hill and am able to maintain my EGTs at a much cooler temp the engine cools down as well. I flushed my radiator aboout 7,000 miles ago and it runs around 190* normally, and no leaks. Is this normal or should I be looking at blocked air flow through the radiator?

Not sure if this in in the right catagory. I stopped for fuel this morning and noticed this new fuel was available along with the regular diesel. I am not a fan of additives I don't know about. I googled it and there is a lot of info but its over my head. Anyone know what this is about and should I consider using it or just stay with the regular fuel. Of course water and dirt are always a concern for anyone with a diesel. Regards Chris

Some might remember me freaking out about my radiator rusting up so fast. Well I can tell you this, don't ever use radiator flush even if it says its ok for aluminum. It might ok for aluminum but it dang sure not good for the rubber seal around the tanks. New radiator 191.00

In the middle of replacing injection pump when I notice the condition of the tappet cover gasket. It's severely cracked, but not leaking (yet). I'm going to replace it as long as I'm this far in it already, along with the camshaft position sensor - it looks like a bear to access when the injection pump is in place. My question is about the insulation panel situated between the tappet cover and the ECM. It looks terrible, and I'm inclined to just leave it off as I don't care about the noise put off by the engine, and some even suggest it holds water and promotes rusting of the tappet cover. My only concern is it may shield some heat from the ECM, even though it's on th…

Over the last few months my trucks has randomly had a long crank to start issue. Only has happen maybe 4 times. It usually takes less then a second and shes running. But when this long crank happens it usually takes between 3 and 4 seconds to start. This always happens after the tuck has been sitting for at least over night. Also the last few days I have noticed a light gray colored smoke coming from my stacks when I step on it. My truck is completely stock as far as turbo injectors or chips go and I have never before made smoke (which is how I want it ti stay haha) But the last few days it seems to smoke more. Are these two issues related? What should I be lookin…

Hi folks... A mechanic not far from me has his own Chrysler DRB3 scanner that works according to him. Its for sale very cheap. Is this of any use to me with it being hooked into Chyslers own computer. Might not be a bad thing to have once in a while. Regards Chris

This turbo has the steel tube from turbo to waste gate actuator. Is there a way to get a small boost increase?

Is it really necessary to replace the heavy duty battery cables on our Cummins or would the regular size gas powered truck battery cables work the same as they are also twelve volt ? I ask because on my 1990 Cummins I replaced the ground cable with a gas powered cable and everything worked fine. Just a thought.

Having a noise becoming apparent only when in drive and putting my foot down.. Sounds from drivers side but could be playing tricks on me. I know the difference between the turbos whistle and this is defiantly a new one. I can't pin point. Any ideas guys? Not sure if its something gone bad.. Just know I gotta get this solved. Added a video: or at least ill try.. sorry, best audio I could come up with. This is with the AC off and radio off.trim.EdAwki.MOV

I installed an adjustable boost elbow today preset at 30psi. Before the elbow with the Comp on 5x5 I was seeing a moderate amount of smoke at wot. After the elbow installation it's rollin' some serious coal now at wot. Am I mistaken thinking that there should be less smoke with the elbow than without? Truck runs awesome just curious about the smoke I think I choked a poor guy on a bicycle today when I passed him.