2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ok truck has 330,000 miles started noticing a howling noise at idle it's really pronounced at the oil pan when driving it only makes the noise when it's in gear between 1000-1500 rpm the noise is more pronounced when cold and not as bad when the motor is warmed up any help would be greatly appreciated !!

It is getting hard to find non synthetic 2 stroke oil in the Houston area. Where are you finding "regular" 2 stroke oil? What bad things happen when synthetic 2 stroke oil is used?

I tried unplugging my Boost sensor (map sensor) after reading it would make for some good smoke. I was going to do a smoke switch but figured I would try that to see if it did anything before putting in the switch and having not work. I figured if I set a code I would just clean it out with my Hypertech Hyperpac. Truck ran bad and set a code. I scanned and found 2 codes. The first was low/no boost signal (duh!) and 1693. I found that one means it set a code in both PCM and ECM. I cleared the first code but the 1693 keeps showing up. So now I found out my programmer doesn't clear the PCM. I key on/key off and find codes 0500 and 1694, I don't know how long those codes have…

We have the 47e automatic transmission on our 99 Dodge Cummins... purchased with around 150K and we just rolled over 200K... When our truck was in the shop around 175K I asked our mechanic to flush the transmission and he was hesitant since we did not know whether the prior owner had regularly changed the fluids. Any thoughts? We are currently experience the torque lock problem around 45-50 mph that is addressed in several other posts on here... so we are going to replace the alternator in the next few days... So any other suggestions on preventative measures to prolong the life of our transmission would be great! Thanks

Lasts friday I spent a few hours and swapped in my RV275 injectors (40k miles) and injection pump from Blue chip diesel. I just got the base model. Everything went really well and from the time I parked it and fired it back up was less than 4 hours. I watched every video and read every single thing I could before I started work so I pretty much knew what was going on before I touched the 1st tool. Once I was done and finally got the fuel system bleed I noticed it now idles at 800 rpm. Before the swap it would idle at 900rpm in neutral and in gear it would come down to 800rpm. Now, it idles at 800rpm them dips to 700 for just a second then returns to 800. I pulled the truc…

Ok fellas i am in need of a 98.5 24v ecm. Would any one in Colorado have a good spare

Has problems when it's heated up or sometimes out of no where throttle body sensor goes to zero voltage randomly but then picks back up after hitting the gas a couple times also shuts off driving down the road when it's warmed up but starts back up right away lift pump is new so are the lines and the tps sensor is new also.I checked the fuel pressure and it's stays the same when driving. The rpms start jumping from 0 back to how much rpms you have back down to 0 then the truck dies but starts back up but then starts happening again

This weekend I'm pulling out my god forsaken NV4500 and putting in a 5600. I have not for the life of me been able to confirm or deny if I'll also need to swap PCMs. My thinking is no but that answer is pulled completely from my arse. Both trucks and all parts are 2001s. I'm over here with random forum print outs and the full stack of FSMs like a mad man with no answer lol.

I have 2001 Dodge Ram with cummings engine. Has the following symptoms [*]Sometimes you get in and turn key and it will turn over and over and never hits a lick, but if you turn key off and try again it cranks right up. [*]Sometimes you get in and it cranks the first try [*]Does not matter if it's hot or cold [*]Sometimes it seems to be slugish (as in it will slow down on a hill and if you step on it, keeps slowing down), the next drive is just fine all the power you need. I have done the following [*]New fuel filter [*]Checked pressure and it's 21 PSI at idle, using the test location at the injector pump [*]Not sure about the following, it only pu…

Newby here. Sorry if I posted in the wrong area. Just got this truck so the super chip is going in the trash. Ok I have full gauges. New vp new lp new apps. I have no white tag to set volts to first off. So how do I know what to set it to? Second it revs like a monster in neutral with 13psi. Wot it's at 11psi idol its 18psi. Pulls hard till about 20psi of boost or 2200 rpm. Then sometimes it does it at 10psi and 1400rpm. Sounds great till then. If you ease in to it it wont change anything. And I can't get the chip to connect to ecm. I get a code but only after I run the truck.shut it off code goes away.

I'm looking to make my trailer light plug into an "isolated" power source to charge my camper battery. When I say "isolated" I mean it's "on" when the truck is running and "off" when the truck is not running. Currently the trailer outlet is always "on", regardless of whether the truck is running or not. Is there an easy way to change this? I was going to follow the steps in this thread http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50 , but can't find an available fuse in either of my fuse boxes that is only hot when truck is on. Any ideas?

Okay so before I get into it, heres the info about my truck 99 Ram 2500 47re Edge EZ (set on level 2, 40hp) RV275 injectors BHAF Intake Boost elbow (15F today) Okay so I'll get right into it, my transmission was acting up this morning on my way to work. I left my house after about 10 minutes of letting my truck idle at 1200rpm, the engine was still below 140 so I took it easy and kept it below 1800rpm until it got over 150 degrees. I left my house and drove down the road before I turned off overdrive (slows me down on hills and powers me through hills better) and as I was going down a hill with the torque converter locke…

...Top of fuel module return lines…the smaller connection (roughly) is 5/16, the larger connection is 3/8. With Airdog 100 where would you connect the larger line? Return from engine or return from Airdog pump? ...Being larger lines are usually better in most cases (fuel line, exhaust, etc) Would there be any benefit going to larger return lines to fuel module? Thanks

HowdyMy third post, yee ha. I did my research, made sure I had the correct coolant, followed the procedure and turned the engine on to get vacum to turn heater on. I drained it but when I refilled it, it only took 4 gallons. I was told with refill, it was 5 to 5.5 gallons. Any thoughts? also, some FYI, I had to replace my ball joints, and track bar at 60,000 miles. I put Moogs on so am hoping these will last. MarkFlagstaff, AZ

ok, to some of you who have followed a couple of my posts in the last days... I have some more info on my problems:along with the intermittent check engine light, some engine surging, and dying at idle, (again, only occasionally)... I noticed the tach was bouncing from 0 up to actual engine speed. I shut it off while the tach was reading "0"..... and it would not restart. I tried in about 30 seconds, and it popped right off, and the tach was working fine.Today was the first time I actually got to 'test' drive this.. my son and wife are the ones who relayed the info to me, which I posted here.Today, I actually got to key the di…

While bleeding my rear brakes in the spring I noticed that the back of my muffler had rusted out and the section of pipe going over the axle was dangling by the hangers. I bought a 4" Diamond Eye w/no muffler and a FTE 4"X30" Resonator. I also bought a few preformed band clamps from FTE, I wasn't sure how many I would need, I ordered 8. The old system came out easy, I sprayed the bolts securing the downpipe to the turbo with PB Blaster a couple of times before starting the install. And I had no problem getting them out. The exhaust kit was great, all of the hangers in the kit were correct. The resonator does come with band clamps on each side, I didn't re…

I have been experiencing dead pedal some times it is as soon as I take off other times I can drive for 30 min before any bucking happens. I have already replaced the APPS with a new one and it worked fine for about a week or more then it started again. What could be the cause of this to make the sensor keep going out?

In the box I got; 1 lip seal with plastic guide sleeve 1 seal install/driver/depth gauge 1 smaller thin seal (steel backed with rubber od and id) with same ID as crank OD, but smaller OD than cover hole 1 black rubber 'square profile' o ring that has same OD as cover hole 1 black rubber 'rectangular profile' o ring. Is this for the breather cap seal? 1 gear case gasket Is any of this 'extra' stuff for the actual crank seal??? Ok, methinks the steel-backed smaller seal actually snaps inside the main part of the big crank seal... AFTER installed to proper depth... Hence "2 piece seal…

I let my fuel tank get below 1/4 and the "near empty" idiot light came on. Normally when I turn the key to ON, the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and gets the fuel pressure up to about 10psi. The next time I started it, the fuel pump didn't do ite pre-start run. The engine started normally and had normal fuel pressure. I filled the tank, the idiot light went OFF but the fuel pump still didn't do its pre-start run. A few starts later, and everything was back to normal. Is this a feature or a failure?

This started last week on Friday. Working out of town truck ran fine all week and drive home Thursday night. It was raining hard on way home. Got up Friday morning to run errands truck started fine let it warm up pulled out of drive and truck cut out 1/4 mile down road pulled over, was able to restart it to turn around and go home. It died again, buddy came and towed it home, got codes 0217, 0230, 0237, 1698, 1689 on ECU scan and 1693 on PCU. Lift pump wasn't putting out much flow so i installed new one flow was fine and had 20 psi cranking, got it started idled at 18 psi ran for 20-30 min. Shut truck off and now it won't start again. No process of cranking it over o noti…