2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

What are the options for achieving torque converter lock up in 1st and 2nd gear? I'm installing an exhaust brake and I'm thinking this might come in handy.

I have a list of codes that I need to understand. Engine is not running right and trans is crazy. Any help would be appreciated.code listECMp0380 - intake air heater relay#1p1698 - no Transmission bus messagesp0341 - cmp signal errorPCMp1492 - Batt. temp. sensor voltage too high= not plugged in but is it needed?p0463 - fuel sender unit volts too highp1694 - no engine bus messages receivedp1687 - no mic bus messages receivedp1693 - mil fault in companion modulep1594 - charging system voltage too highp1899 - park/neutral switch failurep1682 - charging system voltage too lowwhat do I need to do to make the pcm and ecm talk to each other?Its not in a dodge truck by the way. I…

I have a 99 2500 4x4 with a quadzilla tuner and air dog. Today on my way to work my cruise just stopped working, my air bag light came on and it spitted and stuttered a little. When I went to leave work I bumped the key to engage the pump and no pump and no start. I have always had to wait for the wait to start light to go out before starting and always had a hard start. But this just has me puzzled. Could this be my ECM or is it somewhere else?

I am having an issue with my truck not wanting to start when it is cold out. symptoms are below say 40-50 degrees the fuel pump will not come on, I get a CAD communications error, I have no gauges, no wait to start light, and I do not hear any relays click when I turn on the key. I have not seen any codes using the key trick. now here is the fun part. If I plug the truck in for a few hours it will start just fine and everything works properly. Truck has new batteries, and the connections are tight. Should I be chasing grounds with these symptoms, or should I be looking for a cold solder in the ECU, or am I just chasing my tail without diagnostic equipment to see what …

Replaced my battery cables yesterday. Started the engine up 4 or 5 times, fuel pump was working. Tried starting this a.m. and can't hear the pump energize. Checked the fuse in the wiring harness, switched the fuses in the PDC, looked at all of the connections they still have dielectric grease on them, replaced the relay in the harness and still nothing. What am I missing here? Any help would be appreciated!

I'm hooking up a resistor to my IAT for the MPG mod. I'm going to use a DPDT switch. One position to the IAT for cold mornings, the other position to the resistor. The only IAT extension cord anyone has heard of is for a gasser. Are the plugs the same? Anyone know of where to get one for a diesel?

My Tach, oil pressure, and engine temp gauges stop working all of a sudden. My Speedo and Voltmeter still work. I have had this truck for about 4 months now and this is about the 3rd time this has happened. It will sometimes randomly jar or jump while driving or idling. Nothing is happening at any intervals so I am not sure what it is. Last time this happened it lasted a couple days and it all started working again. I had one battery that needed replaced so I have a one new battery( the factory battery so it lasted 10 years). I hooked the code reader and it gave a no bus code. I forgot the number though. Hope somebody can help. Thanks

already looking at mods. Where does one start? Is there an order one should do stuff in?What is a good programmer that doesn't break the bank?p.s. if I had lots of extra money to blow on mods, I'd have a new truck. lol

So, looking under the hood one day, checking the oil level, I noticed a hairline crack running right between cylinder 3 and 4. More than likely and I'm putting money it, the funky color I was seeing under the turbo on th manifold was probably this same crack, but I bet it has now traveled. If not though, and regardless, how much of this is a problem and do I need to worry? If this is a mandatory fix, what do I need to go with? - - - Updated - - - Nobody, eh?

I am working on a 2000 24 valve and the initial problem was that the truck didn't have both batteries connected when my friend bought it. He was having transmission shifting issues. He discovered that both batteries werent connected, fixed that and the trans started working correctly. After some time passed the engine started idling high. His neighbor adjusted his apps then put another apps and it didn't fix the problem. He brought it to me and after pulling codes and checking the apps voltage, i put another ecm from another truck and the idle problem was fixed so he bought another ecm. When test driving, the truck got a dead pedal when you would put the pedal to the floo…

So, I was just thinking, don't even really know what brought this up, but if IIRC, a jake brake (ie engine brake) decreases the compression in the motor, causing the cylinders to not be able to utilize the full stroke of the bore, thus regulating the output of the motor, correct?Wouldn't there be a way to do something like this, on a 24valve, using the same programming that allows the 3 cylinder high idle? just wondering, not sure if it actually shuts off the 3 cylinders, or causes the exhaust valves to open similar to an engine brake.

I have a "wait to start light" that doesn't come on all the time. I have to cycle the ignition switch maybe 5-6 times before it finally comes on, then truck will start. No light, no start. I have a 99. Just bought it from a friend, he had this issue before the vp44 took a dump. I replaced pump, truck runs awesome once the light comes on. Did a search of the internet and now can't find the articles I found before.:banghead:I love this truck!

I have been thinking about puttin a new exhaust on my truck, but there is so many different brands to pick from. I'm lookin for opinions to see who has what and if they are happy with what they bought. Thanks y'all.

When shifting gears around 2500 to 3000 i can hear an odd noise coming from the passenger side of my truck its doesnt sound like waste gate opening. im not sure how to explain it other than it doesnt sound good, maybe like a squealing type of noise

I tried to buy some new engine oil today but, for the first time, I having a hard time finding synthetic 15w-40 diesel engine oil for my '99 Dodge Ram 2500. The truck has 264,000 miles and I've owned it since it was new. I usually run Amsoil 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine Oil or the Mobil 1 equivalent. All the stores now seem to only carry the 5W-40 synthetic oil which I thought was only for the newer diesels. Can I safely use the 5w-40?Thanks. ----- Jim

My 98.5 starts fine, moment i touch the peddle it goes wide open. Anyone know whats up??? Plz help...

First off...it is an honor and great relief to have access to this site! Thanks to all whohave made it possible! :thumbup2: I have owned this truck for the past 3 years (35K miles).It is my first Diesel- All this help is very welcome!Sadness- Drove home, low speed cool down last 1/2 mile, parked, slept, woke...same as every return trip from town- but this time- my truck would not start the next morning! I admit I forgot to wait for the heaters the first crank, buteven after several attempts "post heater warm up"- it still would/will not start.Plugged in the block heater, charged the batteries up- gave it another shot...nope...nada! So I went for the OBDII and came up w…

Has anyone tried a stacked rotary switch similar to the switch on the bottom of pg 3 of the attached link to get everything into one switch with multiple positions for each of the functions/combinations needed to get both the High Idle & MPG Foolers into one pkg? I haven't sat down and sketched it out to see if it's even possible, just thought I'd check before playing it all out. It would require more then one of each resistor but they're cheap and would reduce the wires through the firewall to 4 and just one switch. No idea how many "stacks" the switch would need or number of "load" terminals for all the possible combinations involved but I'll work that out. It is mo…

Had an pureflow VP- 100 Raptor start running erratic with fuel leaking from elect motor and motor running in spurts. Got shipped a warranty replacement. Installed it. Fuel pressure was 5 psi. Adjusted the relief up to 20. After few seconds pressure dropped back to 15. Let it run there for 10 minutes. Wait and see what happens. Then I cranked it up to 18. I thought the adj. screw was pretty deep compared to the last one. Should have trusted my instincts. Next morning on the way to town, I hear a pop. Blew up my oil filled guage. Installed a 0-100 test guage and found it pushing 65 PSI. Cranked it back to 18psi. Going to run the 100psi guage for a while and see if this thi…

turn on my heater an the A/C is still runningany suggestion