2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,279 topics in this forum
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Hi, I have a 2001 dodge ram 2500 4x4 vin 6 truck , and need to know turbo model number, looks like my waste gate si stuck or damage. According to my bluetooth scanner the turbo pressure is around 29 psi when idle and up to 37 psi when reaches 2100 rpms. I had the sensor replace because low voltage code p235 (I believe this was the code number) and I was able to duplicate intermitent signal data dropping all the way to 12 psi. But even before I had sensor replace on idle it was showing 29 psi. Regaridng turbo ID I could see some numbers inthe front side but I was expecting something that leads me to HX35 or HY35.
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Started noticing fuel dripping from the fuel filter. Looks like it is coming from in between the top of the cannister and the side. I have taken the top of the cannister off the block, looked for cracks and debris. Then I put a new filter on and it is still leaking. I don't know if the manufacturer is putting in smaller o-rings or what. Any suggestions?If I can't figure this out, looks like I will be putting a new filter setup on the truck and removing the factory cannister.
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On our way home from a road trip today, cruised for about an hour and a half at 70mph. We got off the highway and go to take off from the stop, and it takes off in second gear and would not shift. I pull over and check the fluid, it looks fine, smells fine. I take off, and now it does not have first gear, but seems to shift/run fine in all other gears. I did notice a week ago that it would hunt @ 45 mph alittle. Thinking maybe the govn solenoid in the trans has gone out...I think I might change the oil and filter, been @ 50k since it was done. And change the two solenoids in the trans, and cross my fingers....Any other ideas?
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I am changing the thermostat in my truck today and didn't know whether or not to put some sealer on the bolts for the thermostat housing.
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Thanks to a great set of instructions (by Mike) I just finished my high idle fooler modification. All of the switch functions appear to be working as advertised. I just have to have the software enabled... I would guess I have about 5-6 hours in building the wiring harness and install... Thanks again Mike!
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20 amp fuse is blown. replaced starter twice and replaced starter relay help.
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OK gang i have so questions about the CPS. First off i have a miss at ideal and up to about 1100 after that smooth as glass. I have been through everything I even tried putting in my 225 HP injectors to see it my 150 hp are having some kind of issue. Had them tested and they came back good. I have taken every connection apart and cleaned them. I Then cleaned all my grounds and still the same. So all i can think of is the CPS. Issue number two while driving down the road my truck has a lot of engine noise. Then like magic it like the engine changes the timing. It is half as load and can only hear the turbo. Normally it seem to quiet down when i am pulling hills or when i a…
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I'm looking to make my trailer light plug into an "isolated" power source to charge my camper battery. When I say "isolated" I mean it's "on" when the truck is running and "off" when the truck is not running. Currently the trailer outlet is always "on", regardless of whether the truck is running or not. Is there an easy way to change this? I was going to follow the steps in this thread http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50 , but can't find an available fuse in either of my fuse boxes that is only hot when truck is on. Any ideas?
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Winter is around the corner we get to -40 farenheit some days ,I was thinking about going with Lucas 75w140 full synthetic instead of 85w90.the front diff is a M60/2 and rear M70/26 with anti spin.
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I just got done ordering some RV275s from DAP. They have some really good prices and offered free shipping to Canada. I couldn't go wrong. I can't wait to see how much better it will run with them. My injectors are stock and have 456,000kms on them. I hope my auto trans is up to it I have changed out the HY turbo for the HX like you guys recommended and it helped, but looking for just a bit more power. My next move will be a Edge Comp box instead of the EZ. Thanks for all the good ideas I've learned here so far. You guys haven't steered me wrong yet.
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First let me say hi, have read here plenty but just registered . I have a 2000 Dodge with a auto. Had it rebuilt a couple of months ago . My truck would drop into neutral if you slowed down . For example if you were coming to a yield sign. My nephew has a trans shop and he built it for the cost of parts so it didn't cost me a lot of money to build. My problem now is ( and they are having a hard time figuring it out). It shifts crazy at times and times it just fine. Trans has been pulled and went thru to make sure something didn't go wrong with the build . We put new parts , torque converter, PCM, and valve body with a shift kit . I have read about the O D problem but my …
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Hello all, I'm new to the site/forum and thought I would introduce myself and get right in to the mix.My name is Ron, I'm from CA, and I love to put cummins motors in trucks they didn't belong in.I have a complete donor 2001 cummins 24 valve. I actually have the whole truck. I put the engine,trans, and transfer case in a 2001 Chevy 3500HD. My question is, im doing the wiring right now and I have the truck runningbut i have absolutely no throttle at all. idle only. im wiring from the c130 connector and im using the factory ecm and pcm for the 24v. i have a light green/black wire that in my schematic needs 12v in start run position. But when I hook it up to switched power t…
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I need someone with a smarty programmer that lives with in 100 miles of Wenatchee, WA. I called the amazing dealership to have then flash my 1998.5 24v to get the high idle and 3 cylinder turned on and they had no idea or clue what i was talking about and basically told me they cant help me. But they could take a look for 75 bucks and see what they can figure out. I will be going to Boise the day after thanksgiving so any takers on using a smarty on on my truck please.
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Just installed new injectors, Big Line Kit and Isspro fuel gauge.Fired her up yesterday & happily watched my fuel pressure climb to 12. After a short test drive and check over I noticed 2 small fuel leaks. One up top of filter where the needle valve is, was hoping this was just due to the Permatex thread sealer I used not being dry yet. The other is at the other end and seems to be coming from the push-lock fitting. Very small, couldn't see it but when I felt around the fitting my hand came away with diesel on it.I was going to take it to work today (50 mile round trip) and see what happens.Just fired her up and fuel pressure was only 4. I nervously watched for a…
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so I just picked up a 90' VE pumped 12 valve motor for $1500. Im going to swap out my 24 valve with this motor .few reasons, miledge, relyabilty, and next to no electronics!I know its a direct swap, Im just hoping there is a way to retain my factory gauges? Also has any body seen this done to our body style yet?and what are your guys' thoughts? dont knock me to to bad! Im just sick of these constant codes, poor miledge, constantly worrying about my fuel pressure, and how everything is sooo expensive for these motors!
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I got some pieces from Eric @ Vulcan and they worked out great. Anytime I open the fuel system I have to bleed the injectors and then have leaky connections for a few days. I got a ball valve and a few other parts to keep the pressure in the pump. Parts list part # 2: 1/2 push lock x 1/2 mnpt pom188 1: 1/8" mpt half union 31482 1: 1/4" sae cap 31992 1: 3/8" npt ball valve 06vlv 1: push lock T 1/2" aluminum plt8 He said a few parts werent listed on his site. I changed all my fuel line today and closed the valve off. When I got done I bumped the s…
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What is the easy to get water out of the fuel tank? without removeing the tank
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I had to relocate to Germany for work and my truck has been sitting for a year. Its been parked in a garage in northern california. I will be headed home in December for a month and hopefully will be driving it and installing gauges...etc. Its a 98.5 24v auto and had no problems before I left. I think there is about 5- 10 gallons of fuel in it.Batteries were fine when I left, I took them out of the truck. Will they be toast or can I top them off with distilled water and put a charge to them?I plan on: Fuel filter, oil/filter change, brake fluid, & coolant flush. So my question is - if this was your truck, how would you go about firing it up and running it? Should I du…
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I am trying to figure out who to buy an Injection pump from. Most are right around $1,000 give or take $50. I had planned to buy a stealth plate and injector nozzles along with the pump... However, It has been brought to my attention, that any sort of wire tap WILL void the warranty. I have been told that most places sell the same pump, so its areally all about who you like. I really like Moparman's set up with RV275 injectors, and Edge comp box. The comp box is a wire tap box, therefor, No warranty.Questions:1. Who have YOU bought a pump from, and how do you like it?2. How dangerous is a wire tap? 3. What is a good set up for a non-wire tap programmer? 4. I know you "Sho…
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Looks like im going to be replacing the head gasket this next week. Any suggestions on where to get the gaskets from would be greatly appreciated.
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