2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I finaly got a boost gauge hooked up (slow poke). Whats your boost gauge read when you are just cruzin 'bout 60 on a flat hwy, just light throutle cruzin for mpg, no grade?

I was told by my mechanic that put my tie rod ends on that I need to replace the right side upper control. Found that a replacement control arm is around $345.00 (ouch). He is going to try to replace the bushings and see if might solve the problem. Anyone care to share any information or personal experience in this area? I think he said that he had the front end up and had someone mash the brakes and he could see movement in the control arm. Also, when you are driving and apply the brakes you can hear a noise and feel a bit of a jerk in the front end.

When I did my valve lash adjustment I did not have a barring tool so I used the alternate method to turn the engine backwards using a ratchet and socket on the alternator... Here is my question/comment... I turned engine till I got TDC (everything was nice and smooth and quiet) did the valve adjustments then started turning engine to get to BDC... while I was turning everything was smooth and quiet and all of a sudden I start to hear a clicking noise every time I would turn over the engine... the sound persisted for about 5 or 6 turns on the rachet and then stopped... I never heard it again after that... It noise/clicking sounded like it was coming from the aft…

Well after installing my gauges and DDRP I finally got the P1688 "dead" code. My gauge still wasnt showing as much pressure as I thought it should have (12-15 idle...I could pull it below 5 with throttle). I'm pulling pressure thru top filter housing from outlet banjo thru a snubber. I assumed I should swap the filter anyhow. Regardless after I got up to temp, the truck stalled. When hot and bumping the starter the lift pump didnt seem to be running. Had no pressure and no start. I pulled code to get the P1688. Can the VP code cause the lift pump to not run (when hot)? After a few hours, I started truck and drove it to the house. Same pressures 12-15 at idle.I'…

Put on new tires and noticed a pronounced pull to the left. Checked the tie rod ends and found both sides with some play in each side. Is there supposed to be any play in them? Am approaching 100k miles so I guess I need to get new tie rod ends??? Just came off a 1200 mile trip and am not sure if I noticed the pull to the left with the old tires or not, if so, it was not as pronounced. I had the new tires on the left side switched to rule out a faulty tire. It still had the strong left pull.

I have been told by our shops head diesel guy that I can just install a Raptor 100 where the stock pump used to be and leave the retrofitted intank pump alone as it will simply draw thru it. I have to say that I am leery of this setup,I have a stock 99 3500 with 237,000 on it.He runs a 2000 CTD with 500+ HP so he's no dummy but I just want it right.I was hoping the pump was still in the stock location but it as not to be,aluminum junction block.I bought the truck dirt cheap and have only put 1500 or so miles on it,fuel pressure gauge will be installed in the next 2 weeks.So what to do,the truck will be driven rarely and will be lucky to get another 1500 on it by next…

I know I am off topic but I have to ask. I was checking out the picture of Mikes trucks with the fire trucks.Mike could you get me the info on your tire and wheel combo. I have 35's on 16 and a half inch wheels and looking to downsize. Your rig looks good with what you are running.Luke

Was wondering what fittings are being used with AD or FASS fuel systems to keep the stock filter housing in line.I live in the northeast and would like the security of having the fuel heater,also an extra filter cant be all that bad. I have a AD II 165 1/2 fuel line with quick connections and modified fuel canister(which im having problems with since ive installed but thats another story for another time).

Some of you may remember my "slightly disappointed with MPG" thread. My first fill-up since then I got 16.8 mpg, up from 14.2, just changing my driving style and installing a AFE stage 2 about halfway through the tank. Better, but not good enough yet. Still have to pinpoint the leak behind the head, not sure if it's at this banjo bolt which I have yet to find with my mirror lol, or the return line T fitting. So I'm expecting gains yet and still adjusting my driving, but good results so far.Anyways, I'm having a slight issue in low-mid 70 degree weather. Not only does it take noticeable longer to warm up, but it also flattens out at 1400 rpms or so through all the gears un…

I like having information to make educated decisions, so I've been reading as many forum posts from as many different forums as I could find and I've come to the decision that I now have a headache. I've got a few questions that I'm not finding answers for, so it's my turn to ask...Is there a difference in reliability between lift pumps that are externally adjustable for pressure +/- (eg Raptor, AD2 system, FASS adjustable) and those that need to have springs replaced (eg. most other FASS, AD system)? I do like the idea of external adjustability to fine tune fuel pressure. But is the external screw only compressing a spring to increase/decrease pressure as opposed to swap…

Ok thought I had resolved my Startup Idle issue... If you watch the video the second startup is what i am talking about... the first start it barley did it the last start was normal... This behavior can happen at anytime... cold engine starts, hot engine starts... sometimes have to crank for a for or five seconds and it will startup then do it... other times like in the video link below it starts easy and does it... the weird thing is... it does not do it all the time... The truck did not do this at all before the new injectors and lift pump... other then that I think it runs great... The link below is the idle issue... second start up... a little on the firs…

Just some background:I don't drive my 24v much anymore. 200,534 miles on the clock. In the last seven years I've only put 5200 miles on it. I last drove it three weeks ago and all was fine. This morning I turned the switch to on position and all the bells and such worked just fine. When I bumped the starter it would not turn over, just kind of drug but not fast enough to start. I cleaned the battrey cables and battrey posts, connected the battrey charger and It read "FULL CHARGE" so I tried to start it again but she would not go.I desided to drive my 97 GMC Sonoma which has not been started for a year, It was dead. I connected the battrey charger and It read "FULL CHAR…

changed my oil and filter today. and when i removed my tube from my air breather , i seen some oil in the turbo. a nice film with a few drop where it had pooled a little. the turbo is stock with a little over 190,000 on it. thanks in advance for the help. and the truck has set for about one week

Here is what it is doing: 1) Takes 1 to 1.5 secs to start... prior to injectrs/V adj... as soon as it turned over it would start.. 2) Rpm is around 740-750 with ever so slight bump to it... like its out of time or missing... it was very smooth prior to the install and had 780-800rpm. 3) I put it in reverse and it stalled (twice) when a bumped the throttle never done that before. 4) Noticeably more smoke (puff) at start up... and when i bump the throttle just sitting there it will puff smoke. Did not really do that before... 5) I was very careful installing injectors and crossover tubes they came with protective covers and i was very cautious when …

Does anyone know if I need to remove the crossmember? There is one nut on the bottom of the transfer case /od section that I can not seem to get to. Thanks

Over the past few days i've found that there is a dead spot in my accelerator pedal where either right off idle or at cruise at about 1/4 pedal the motor will drop in output, and if in OD the converter will pop in and out of lockup as if I were making wild swings with the accelerator pedal. I haven't checked for codes yet, but I haven't seen a check engine light either. Otherwise the truck runs great. New batteries recently, and I really should check contacts and grounds, but its a weird issue regardless. Any bright ideas?

So, since I have installed the mopar1973man blowby mod, it exits right at the front differential on the driver side. I was wondering what normal blowby looks like. Does the outside temp. have any influence as well? My dipstick says its at the top of the full line still, but the differential looks wet like I accidently dropped some oil on it. It does not accumulate enough to the point that it drips on the ground though...

So I posted a thread a little while ago about my turbo and it throwing a p0234 code. Got no respose. So, I decided I would try and dig a little deeper into the issue. I thought about making a leak tester to see if I can figure out what was going.So I went to the local stores and parted together a tester. Got a 4" rubber coupling and a 4" adapter with a cap. Put an air regulator on the end and called it good.So I put the tester on the inlet of the turbo and put the pressure to it. If I apply more than 10psi, the tester wants to slide off the turbo from the pressure. The rubber will also balloon out. I was getting a little nervous about a catastrophic failure but I managed …

my truck is not starting ?!!!!! when i go to start it, it just cranks and cranks im not getting any power to my lift and inj. pump. truck is stock but a couple people told me it was a bad ecm ? went threw the wires they seemed fine noticed im not getting rpms though when its cranking. so i replaced the crank sensor. still not moving. i got the lift pump to run with the relay jumped but plug it back in and it dosent fire up need some help maybe a wire diagram ??or just some expert thoughts !thanks !

Do ya-all think there is an upper limit for our intake air temperature? Why I ask is since putting on the BHAF I have seen temps in the high 160 sitting in traffic with the A/C on. Just thinking..……Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk