2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Noticed recently that my truck sometimes doesn't fire right away, if it doesn't it will only start after turning the key to off and then start again, It is very intermittant which makes me think electrical, not noticed the WTS light yet but I'll be watching that over the next few days, no fault codes on dash but again haven't had time to drop the box on it, but over the weekend I'll get to it, I suppose it could be the VP, whatever it is I get the feeling its not going to be a cheap fix Couldn't have come at a worse time as going into hospital a week tomorrow (saturday) all being well for my hip replacement, being done on our NHS for free,1 night in hospital …

After the ball joint at the steering gear snapped the other week AND it's MOT time I decided ok time to fix some stuff, long steering joint I've had for nearly a year and not fitted it, on the list, right hand wheel drive shaft U joint cream krackered so 2 on the list from rock, some clown was over the white line on a little lane a few weeks ago and smashed the right towing mirror glass and body so on the rock list SO 2 u joints and a towing mirror $350 or so to my door inc shipping duty and VAT .... pants down comes to mind, it's getting expensive to run my truck already got upper and lower ball joints and all the rest of the steering, shocks all round…

Good morning everyone! Here’s the story, might be a little long but I want to give every detail so it makes it easier, bought an 01 24valve auto off a used car lot not running dirt cheap. Guy didn’t seem to understand these trucks. Only mods are a fass DDRP, nothing else truck has 140k, and a new reman trans, very carefully inspected truck and no prior meatball repairs or hacked wiring. upon first arriving at the lot here’s what I did. - trucks battery terminals were beat/ corroded, managed to get them tight and partially clean -found fuel relay missing out of fuse box under hood, swapped with horn relay and truck fired, ram very poorly but was enough to get on …

After getting the valve cover off and pulled the 8mm bolts holding injectors those bolts were loose. Then took a lot of force to pull number one out. The injector was carboned in place. No copper washer. I've got a fight with 5 and 6 yet to pull out of the head. The truck came in with a complaint of pressure in the fuel tank and spitting fuel out the filler neck. Mark just found the copper washer buried in the carbon build up. Managed dig out.

edit: added video in reply Hey gents, glad to see the site is back! I needed it during that time hahaha. I just replaced my head and put in some 110# springs, ARP 425’s etc. I have this tapping noise that is usually most prevalent when coming down into idle range whether in gear or free revving in neutral. I have a feeling it’s a bad exhaust leak but it’s driving me nuts since occasionally it’s not there and then will be there when I park. I adjusted valves after the head job and did mess up there the first time.. lost #6 intake bridge due to I believe the nut being too loose (oops, live and learn!). Replaced that push rod, and used moparm…

1) 150 hp over injectors DAP 7x0.010 VCO..hamilton 103 pd springs and pushrods 2)MDC S300 62/65/14 cm or 12cm 3) 47RE Auto (Don't know what's been done if anything at all) 4) 4:10 gears 35 tires and 20 inch rims 5) air dog FP-150 6) DPS exhaust manifold 7) S & B cold air intake 8) Pusher 3.5 mega intak3 (W) Cross air # PDC9802MCA 9)ARP Studa 247-4262 10) 188/220 Hamilton Cam 11)Quadzilla Adrenaline Tuner Need a Daily aggressive street tuner

Wednesday (Oct 17, 2023) we all headed out and got up to the west side of Florence ID and got to our old spot. Damn It! Our wood spot has been bone-picked. We moved to another spot on the mountain and found lots of wood but bigger-diameter trees. No biggy. So I started to back up the trailer to park it out of the way and the steering started to whine. I shut down instantly and got out and you can clearly see the fluid came out of the top cover of the steering box. Being Beast has all of Thor's tools I just simply got the right wrench. Now checking the top cover 2 bolts were loose. I snugged up the bolts and no what for fluid? DISCLAIMER: NOT A PERMANENT SOLUT…

These showed up yesterday, I’ll drop em in sometime over the next few days and see how they do. Haven’t seen or talked to anyone who’s tried them yet.

I want to preface this by saying I have gone to all the local auto parts stores looking for a map sensor and had to order one. But last night, I was wondering what the best way to get the map sensor looks like it is too thin to get a socket into, and I couldn't finagle a wrench onto the head. Any help would be immensely appreciated.

I've been fighting a blend door issue where if you turned the temperature up to warm up the cab and later want to turn it to a cooler setting the door wouldn't move. You had to turn it up hotter and then quickly down lower and it would start to cool down. Now Being I've never done a heater treater yet I was thinking the shaft broke and hanging it up. I grabbed Mark and asked him for an offset Phillips driver. With little patience, I managed to remove the two Phillips screws and removed the stepper motor for the blend door. I was shocked my shaft coupler was still going strong. Then I popped open the steeper motor lubed the gears with …

Needing some opinions, here’s what’s up. My 2000 just rolled over 300K, everything that has ever even thought about needing to be replaced has been with oem or better parts. I’m on the original injectors, original VP44, original head gasket, and original turbo. My Tappet cover is leaking pretty bad, and aside from that leak I’ve not had any leaks other than a little weeping at the oil pan. My question is, should I just do the Tappet cover and keep going, or should I go ahead and do injectors, VP, oil pan gasket, new turbo, rebuild vacuum pump, front main seal, ect while I’ve got everything pulled apart. I am usually a “it ain’t broke” kinda guy, but at 300K I have to cons…

I just need the bushings for a 2000, 3500. I'm not trusting what I am seeing online. Where would you guys purchase?

So the last code I had to deal with was one for the IAT... ordered a replacement and put it in... The old one looked "melted" https://photos.app.goo.gl/T5s5ek2kwEQnGqBE6 and I discounted because I haven't touched it since 2008.... WHAT would make the temps in the IAT chamber go up so fast? Burnt valve? I don't have an exhaust brake... ECM??? would the ECM somehow confuse the interpreted signal? I mean I did watch the temp slowly drop when I turned vehicle off. Vehicle did get new injectors, it is possible valve clearances got "changed", guy doing the work stated the rockers appeared "loose" but I don't know on which valves. I don't think this is a new thin…

My 2000 Dodge 24v (with 540k mi) started to run rough then stopped. Thought it was the VP44. Installed clear tubing between fuel filter canister and VP44, purged air and got running. Like someone flipped a switch, LOTS of air showed up in clear tubing, engine faltered and I shut it down. Put clear line between Raptor RP-100 and tank: purged air, got running, no air, then engine shut down on its own. Put clear tubing on pressure side of RP-100 with additional clear tubing back between filter canister and VP44: tiny, tiny bubbles by RP-100 and then, like someone flipped a switch, aquarium aerator bubbles after fuel filter canister. Replaced canister top, put new "O" r…

Why would a scan on my truck 1998.5 dodge 3500 24 valve pull up Mercedes indo

Hey guys I'm kinda new here. I been reading for months and now I have questions lol. So I got a couple 12v trucks which I love and now I bought a 24v. So far I like the truck but the electrical issues are driving me nuts. My truck still has the warranty installed in tank lift pump. I recently had the vp die so I put a good one on. Changed filter as well. Truck ran mint after. The next day i get this rough idle. So i check fuel pressure its around 13psi and never goes under 10. Scanned it and did the key trick. I have a 1693 with key trick and two 1688 with the scanner. EGT low and EGT high...there is no egt on this truck soo im confused there.. the truck runs mint just a…

Gates K080810HD Micro-V Gates K080810 Micro-V Other ideas that last a long time?

been having problems recently with the trans in my truck (47re) sort of hanging in 2nd first time was maybe a month ago after a rather fast pull off from a standstill but after it wouldn't change up from 2 to 3 I backed off a little and it changed up, was ok for days then happened again sometimes after accelerating. This morning I accelerated at traffic lights to beat a real slow car oncoming, did over 5 miles in 2nd and no matter what I did it would not change to 3rd Got to my workshop and checked the trans oil, brown but not burnt, time to change it but it's not done 20k Had to use my truck today towing my mobile workshop, set off from my workshop to th…

I finally noted my fuel pressure on my 2001 work truck last week. I was surprised to see it bouncing around 10 psi. Also I was surprised that I have been too busy to notice for quite awhile. Looking in my maintanence schedule I see that both fuel filters have not been changed for 76,000 miles ! How did that happen I asked. As I drove home and fuel temps rose the pressure climbed to 15 still short of the 19 it was set for. It has to be making the lift pump work harder. Today both filters will be changed. Normally everything is watched closely on both trucks, kept on schedule but, I missed this one. Kinda shows a limit how long two filters working together can also help eac…

Had all 5 of these codes pop up at once after changing all of my better connections while trying to figure out my electrical issues. I’ve been dealing with a p0121 off and on for 3-4 months, replaced my APPS, dead pedal came back 3 wks later. Coincidentally my trans (auto) started not going into gear in drive or reverse until I rev up to about 1k rpm’s. I did the BD diesel noise isolator and for a few days it drove perfectly with zero shifting issues or dead pedal. Then started having overboost codes and then the truck randomly died twice. Replaced batteries and redid connections and triple checked the connections, and now I have those 5 codes. Thinking ECM going out due …