2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I was wanting a set of batteries for my farm tractor ...and. I thought it would be a good idea to buy a new set for my truck and use the good ones already in it to put in the tractor. I told the Interstate guy that I wanted group 31...he said no way will they fit. Sold me group 27s. Same rating as the ones in the truck although a bit smaller. WOW...I thought the ones that I took out of the truck were good, not so much compared to the new ones. It sounds like that air starter in the other thread. The tractor will start with the ones from the truck but not as good as it should. Warm weather is coming and things will be better for the tractor then. Regards Chris

Ok guys, I posted over in the CR forum about my brother putting a new turbo on his 05. So I am thinking about buying his he351cw from him, but I have a few questions. First off what is a fair price? 130xxx miles on it no shaft play. Second is it worth it for my second gen? My egts get out of hand quickly with the comp and smarty stacked. Will this cool them down very well? I can use his old down pipe if it will work. What adapters will I need for the oil input, oil return, exhaust manifold ect. When I tow heavy I turn the comp off and run the smarty on 9. Will this be enough fuel to spool the turbo? Any input is appreciated. Remember I'm in college and I'm on a budget!

Wanting to get a bit better mileage and maybe just a little more get up and go when I feel like it. I am a mellow driver but once in a while I like to step on it a bit. Nothin major. I have read about what some of you have done and here is what I am thinking now the truck is paid off. Assassin mech fuel pump, sounds like the electrical ones have issues here and there Big line kit Edge comp box Edge Insight CS Slight injector upgrade Now what I don't understand is what difference is there in changing the nozzles if you can just get whole injectors? Other than some extra coin savings. Plus any other input on what I have planned would be helpful. Steve

I am in the process of doing fluid changes, the truck has 234k and i have no idea on previous maintenance. I haven't had the truck long. I have heard not to adust the bands or do it every fluid change. What would y'all recommend?

Hello all, I'm new to this forum and have already found a wealth of information. I have an Air Dog FP-100 on my '01 Dodge Ram 2500 QC with the standard power Cummins. It has just failed the Air Dog pump for the 3rd time, this time costing me a new fuel injection pump. The gearotor/motor assembly was just installed in Sept. I put in the new fuel injection pump and everything tested fine. I knew the Air Dog was not putting out as much pressure as I would like, so before I ran the truck further than a couple miles, I installed a 1/4" washer that I drilled out to 3/8" ID and then shaved the OD to fit under the return to tank fitting in the Air Dog base. I drove the tru…

All right men, I need some help here. I posted a while back about my clutch slipping and now I finally have a little money to replace it. That being said, I still don't have a huge budget to do this with. I'm trying to find a good reliable clutch that won't break the bank. I'm familiar with south bend and Valair but those are out of my league as far as affordability. If anyone can give me any info on Luk, AMS performance, Exedy, etc. that would be great. I have tried to research these brands but can't really find many reviews on any of them. Also, I don't do any really heavy towing (probably 6 or 7k occasionally). Thanks in advance for the help.

Hey guys, I am just curious what's a safe RPM rage to drive these trucks on the freeway? I have a 4:10 ratio which I really want to change to 3:55 which brings me to another question anybody know where to get a good set of 3:55 gears? Regarding the RPM's I don't let it get passed 2 RPM's which with my ratio is 60 to 65 mph. So since I 'm new to the Diesel world what would be a safe operating RPM rage for these trucks? Just want to know what everyone thinks.

SO the other day I was going home from work, it was snowing pretty bad and the roads were really slick and crappy so I popped the ole girl in 4x4 just for added reassurance. On my commute I have a nice 90* turn that is completely blind till about half way through the turn. Well I get to that half way part, and this grey toyota carolla was spinning and fishtailing all over the place out of control, SO I did what any reasonable 23 year old in a big 4x4 cummins would do and drove right into the front yard of some guy who lives on that corner, I drove in, drove out and kept on my way. Ran over a few rocks and such but all was good, So I thoight. I got about another 1/2 mi…

My truck starts hard after a couple days of sitting, like I ran out of fuel. I read somewhere about a loose fitting or something that can cause this but can't find the thread now. Is it possible the fass is bleeding off pressure? I don't see any leaks or weeping anywhere.

Got some questions about swapping an ECM. I am having issues with my WTS light and no pump prime at key on or bump start. All grounds and fuse's have been checked. Can a smarty reprogram the replacement ECM or does a dealer have to do it? Will any ECM work from a 1998.5-2002? I have heard the 01-02 wont work on a 1998-2000 because of the crank/cam sensor difference? Dose it matter if the replacement ECM is from a automatic or manual transmission? Some say it will work, some say they wont program? On the back of ECM's there are part numbers, serial numbers, and some other series of numbers that aren't labeled. Should I try to match a particular number on the EC…

If you have a Smarty & are willing to flash trucks to enable High Idle for other users, where are you & how far are you willing to travel? Thank you, Ed

Is anyone running Delo 400 MG 15w-40 instead of Delo 400 LE 15w-40 I can only find the MG at a local Oil distrubutor referenced from the chevron web site for $82.30 for 5 gal ($16.46 per gal). The stuff should be $10 a gal if walmart carried it.

Just noticed today that the oil pressure is way high while driving and not really moving even upon reaching operating temperature. Driving pressure at low throttle is 60-70 at full temp. and idling is right around 60. Here's the gauge, full operating temp. while idling... Even before starting, the gauge shows 40, then after start up right to the 60-70 mark and doesn't move much. I'm hoping this is just the sending unit and not a bearing or electrical problem. Any insights? Thank you ps...I know I have oil pressure because I didn't tighten the turbo oil return line enough and it was leaking, I tightened a couple days ago and no more leaks.

To start with make sure you have the supplies to complete the install: 1. Wire crimpers and strippers 2. Wire connectors 3. Gauge pod for the steering wheel 4. electrical tape 5. Add-a-circuit fusible tap 6. Tons of zip ties 7. Wire connectors with a round end for a screw or bolt 8. Two sided tape (Usually comes with gauge mount) 9. Fuses 10. Sockets, screwdrivers, dikes, razor blade Next the install! 1. Take the front knee board off and set it to the side without losing the screws 2. Run the wires for the fooler through the gauge pod 3. At this step you can either use the supplied glue to hold the fooler tight against the mount, or you ca…

So I'm running my stock turbo and I have the ability to get a turbo out of an 04 5.9. Would it be an upgrade over my stock turbo if so what else would I to do to make it work.

Just installed a genuine holset 60mm compressor wheel and housing on the WH1C, from GDS. I believe it was a 56/60/12 and now it's a 60/60/12. Only took it on a small victory ride but it seemed to pull better in lock up in the lower rpms and up high too. Already had a boost elbow and a 38 lb spring waste gate. I was wondering if anyone has experience with hybrids and how efficient they are for around 400 horsepower. With my current mods: edge comp, 60 hp injectors I should have around 415 hp at the crank and I'm done increasing power. No sled pulls or track time, is the 60mm compressor too much for 12cm turbine housing?...no gauges yet

I have a 99 4wd auto, bone stock. The tranny doesn't want to shift out of first. I have replaced the output shaft speed sensor, the governor pressure sensor and transducer. I also replaced the ecm due to the delayed WTS light/fuel pump issue. I checked my alternator for AC noise using a snap on meter it it was 0.03 to 0.05. I've owned the truck for 4 months and it appears to have a fairly new alternator. I took the truck to a local tranny shop (long time biz) he hooked it up to a snap on solus scanner and we drove the truck for about 20 minutes. During that time he said the computer had the p1693 and he couldn't communicate with the body control module. My door chimes, po…

hi all thank you for being a beacon of hope in the realm of . . . well lets just say "stealerships" ok here's the deal. bout 3 months ago this here cummins decided to not start as happily as usual, 80k miles, all maintenance on schedule. normal start procedure, hit the key, roooma zoom zoom, or chugada chugada chugada, what ever your preffered description. now frequently, but not always, after a 5+ hour no run, it may take two -3-4-5 starter engages to get the fire lit, or not, it still occasionally fires on the first starter engage. a week ago started tracking ambient temp at start up, not sure yet, but reluctant start appears to be bel…

I have been looking for two days for a 2001 3500 fuel lever sending unit module without the fuel pump in it but, I can not find one. Anybody know where I can get one?? I have an Airdog 165 with a fuel module upgrade kit on it and one of the return lines is cracked sucking air :banghead: . My fuel pressure gauge is jumping from 16 to 19 erratically . I don't think installing a Vulcan draw straw would help me because, I still need to have that port for a return maybe? I am not sure. The Vulcan has three ports on it maybe I can some how plug the broke one off if I don't have to use it. Anybody know? Thanks for any suggestions

Well since most of my truck is now straight water since the issue I had this morning. I have been researching the coolant for my truck and find out it is the plain ethylene glycol (Green) antifreeze. Low silicate and meets requirements of ASTM D-3306 and ASTM D-4985. My only question is because of reading about cavitation errosion issues with diesels. Is the 98.5-02 Cummins ok with this antifreeze alone or do I need to add an SCA additive to the mix??