2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Just installed a genuine holset 60mm compressor wheel and housing on the WH1C, from GDS. I believe it was a 56/60/12 and now it's a 60/60/12. Only took it on a small victory ride but it seemed to pull better in lock up in the lower rpms and up high too. Already had a boost elbow and a 38 lb spring waste gate. I was wondering if anyone has experience with hybrids and how efficient they are for around 400 horsepower. With my current mods: edge comp, 60 hp injectors I should have around 415 hp at the crank and I'm done increasing power. No sled pulls or track time, is the 60mm compressor too much for 12cm turbine housing?...no gauges yet

I have a 99 4wd auto, bone stock. The tranny doesn't want to shift out of first. I have replaced the output shaft speed sensor, the governor pressure sensor and transducer. I also replaced the ecm due to the delayed WTS light/fuel pump issue. I checked my alternator for AC noise using a snap on meter it it was 0.03 to 0.05. I've owned the truck for 4 months and it appears to have a fairly new alternator. I took the truck to a local tranny shop (long time biz) he hooked it up to a snap on solus scanner and we drove the truck for about 20 minutes. During that time he said the computer had the p1693 and he couldn't communicate with the body control module. My door chimes, po…

hi all thank you for being a beacon of hope in the realm of . . . well lets just say "stealerships" ok here's the deal. bout 3 months ago this here cummins decided to not start as happily as usual, 80k miles, all maintenance on schedule. normal start procedure, hit the key, roooma zoom zoom, or chugada chugada chugada, what ever your preffered description. now frequently, but not always, after a 5+ hour no run, it may take two -3-4-5 starter engages to get the fire lit, or not, it still occasionally fires on the first starter engage. a week ago started tracking ambient temp at start up, not sure yet, but reluctant start appears to be bel…

I have been looking for two days for a 2001 3500 fuel lever sending unit module without the fuel pump in it but, I can not find one. Anybody know where I can get one?? I have an Airdog 165 with a fuel module upgrade kit on it and one of the return lines is cracked sucking air :banghead: . My fuel pressure gauge is jumping from 16 to 19 erratically . I don't think installing a Vulcan draw straw would help me because, I still need to have that port for a return maybe? I am not sure. The Vulcan has three ports on it maybe I can some how plug the broke one off if I don't have to use it. Anybody know? Thanks for any suggestions

Well since most of my truck is now straight water since the issue I had this morning. I have been researching the coolant for my truck and find out it is the plain ethylene glycol (Green) antifreeze. Low silicate and meets requirements of ASTM D-3306 and ASTM D-4985. My only question is because of reading about cavitation errosion issues with diesels. Is the 98.5-02 Cummins ok with this antifreeze alone or do I need to add an SCA additive to the mix??

Ok so today at the park the truck didn't start. checked codes, found no codes, checked fuses all were good. swapped starter solenoid no change. Took the starter out, cleaned contacts reassembled, no change. Jumped from the battery to the solenoid and the truck cranked, fires right up... Now the airbag $ ABS lights are on and the Speedometer nor the odometer are working, however the fuel mileage went down a bit. Will check and see if the trip miles change on the drive, I suspect not. Truck drives fine. Still wonder what is wrong? Any ideas?

Well the truck just hit 163K miles and I ran out of water this morning. I already knew before I popped the hood because of two things...lol 1. I slowly lost heat in the cab. 2. Truck started to overheat almost immediately after I lost all heat. This happened to me about 2 weeks ago and I didn't think anything of it at first, but from the looks of it I can't find traces of any water leaks anywhere. So I guess I will throw the coolant pressure tester on the truck and see where I spring a leak. I am thinking water pump most likely due to the nature of the beast and the search button feature lol.

Hi guys, got the new grid heater battery jumper wire set I had ordered. I put it on, tried it and fried it in 5 seconds- bye bye $40. Anyway, I just followed the troubleshooting instructions here after this disaster: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/Maniford_htr.htm I have .1 or 0 Ohms (depending on the multimeter setting) across the heater grid terminals as stated in the 2002 instructions. But it seems like you wouldn't want 0 if going from the grid terminals to ground as that would in indicate a direct short to ground. If I jump the grid straight to the battery its like a welder. Anyone have any issues with this before? I took the intake horn…

Where can I find the BHAF heat shield template link, so I can print it on my printer?

For the unlucky few who may have a dud air dog or fass laying around, (as in bad motor or wore out pump)... re-use just the filter/air separation part as part of a belt driven system? Seems like everything is self contained/sourced. your water/air separation, regulator.... just remove the motor and gut the pump, block off/seal and presto? (ok, would have to move it downstream of the belt driven pump).. I've bled out my eyes reading hundreds of posts over on CF about the dtt guy promising a cheap diy 'kit'.... which eventually ended up as his ' COMPLETE' setup. He drew me in with 'che…

I took my Edge Ez off a little over a year ago and forgot about the edge elbow. Should I put the stock elbow back in or is there any advantage to the edge elbow?

Has anyone crossed the Air Dog filters to a different brand? I'm in a pinch and need to pick up both filters today if I can find them locally. Thanks.

Ed sent me a high idle switch for me to install into my overhead console, and do a write-up on it This is for guys that have no where else to put it due to too many gauges, or in the rare case like Jigabop who has too many options :hehe: Ed extended the length of the wiring to allow for the wires to be run from the overhead console, under the headliner, down the A pillar, and into the engine bay. Whole install took about 2 hours. You will need - Drill - 2 1/8" whole saw - Smaller drill bit to drill the center ( 1/4" - 3/8" something small to ensure the center hole is in the right position) - Center Punch - Straight Edge/Ruler 1/16" - X Acto Knife - Wire cut…

Sounds like a bad movie title, but there was a bunch of foamy goop on floating on top of the gear oil in my rear drive axle. Glad I'm on this maintenance item! Gotta assume its water :-(

Starting last week I have been having issues getting my truck to go into gear starting from a dead stop. I try to put it into gear and it feels like I am hitting a brick wall. After a few tries it usually goes but it takes some force. I also have noticed that the drive shaft jumps when I am putting it into gear. I have no idea what problem I am dealing with, does anybody have a clue? My only guess right now is that the clutch is not fully disengaging, possibly clutch master of slave cylinder issues? any help would be appreciated.

Once again I found the check ball wedged back into the coils of the spring. I wanted to get a picture by the time I did get the camera the check ball fell out in it own and rolled across the shop floor before I could press the camera button. :banghead: So I got a bit more aggressive this time. I added a new twist to the spring I bent the very end of the spring into a L shape inwards so the tip holds the ball from starting into the coils. Time will tell...

Hey gang, Pulled with my 2 week old (to me) 2002 today. Took my 78 ford on my tandem car trailer 50 miles to a paint shop today with mixed highway, 2 lane driving. First, I was surprised as to how much it was taxing the engine, until I pulled of a ramp and smelled brakes burning and found my drivers e-brake was hung up. After that I could not believe this motor. Pulling my 78 with ease, up grades at 65 mph light pedal would not even be a fantasy in my old 08 super duty. I got 15.5 mpg round trip today, temps in the high 20's. So, what I'm here to ask is if my power curve is normal. My truck is an auto, and is shifts great. Truck pulls out fine, and when the conv…

I'll be going cougar hunting next month in central Oregon in a mule deer winter range. Temperatures typically mid 20's during the day and single digits near zero at night. Can be warmer or colder. According to my owners manual I should have the block heater plugged in. Aside from running a generator all night and not sure my little 1000 watt honda will power the block heater anyway. Is there any precautions I should take? We are tent camping and don't have the luxuries we have when trailer camping.

Where is the article on testing for AC leakage using a good multimeter Cant find it. Guy on other forum said there was a good article here Thanks Rick

So I haven't driven my my pickup in a month and a half and it was gelled up when I parked it but I put a bunch of treatment in it before I parked it and ran it for a bit and then parked it... Yesterday I put a new fuel filter in bumped the key to cycle lift pump to fill the fuel filter housing... When I did this I heard the lift pump running but no fuel was being pumped it was about 20 degrees yesterday.... The pump is only like 2 years old...has anyone had the pump run but not move fuel before or do you think it might just be gel in the lines