2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Alright... so here's what's going on. I went camping a couple weeks ago and left on a Thursday. The ride up was trouble free. The next morning I needed to move the trailer to another spot, I proceeded to start the truck and it had a hissy fit and a lot of trouble running. It would rev to 2k and then drop down to 700-800 then back up and down for a about 45 seconds to a minute. After that it smoothed out and drove fine for the rest of the weekend. It threw three codes one being P0237, and the "Wait to Start Light Relay" code the other I forgot. It began throwing the P0237 code over and over then went into limp mode. I parked it and checked the voltage going to the Ma…

This started about a week ago. It'll hold first all the way to redline and won't shift unless I lift my foot off the gas, and until I get to about 30mph I have to be VERY gentle with the accelerator or it'll downshift. Once I'm into 2nd and past the kickdown threshold, it shifts normally 2-3 and 3-4. It also downshifts fine. I replaced the governor solenoid and sensor about 3 years ago with Mopar parts; I want to say it was the AE or AF revision? I'm thinking it's the problem. Temps are fine, and while the bands *do* need adjusted, the trans was gone through about 100k ago and it's always worked fine. So, 1.) Do you think it's a governor issue and2.) Is the GM/Delphi gove…

Most of the guys don't sell EV gauges any more, and thanks to a mouse, I need a new EV fuel pressure gauge and an EV2 pyro. DAP doesn't seem to carry EV1s anymore so they are out.It's more than fubar'ed wiring, the pyro is toast and the fuel pressure is in pieces. I was trying to jury rig it to get the trip done and ended up breaking the bourdon tube and housing on the fuel pressure gauge while removing the compression fitting nut.I was going to go with Vulcan, as they had the best prices and actually carried the EV line of gauges still. However, their shopping cart won't let me check out and seems to be having issues. Genos still carries EVs, but their prices are crazy..…

Have been having more and more issues starting the engine once it warms up. Truck starts right away (barely turns over and its running) when cold but once it gets warm I have to crank it several times and even once had to use starting fluid to get it going. Was wondering if I somehow got some diesel with gasoline in it and the gas was vapor locking but its all pure pump fuel. The VP is about a year old and new injectors in the engine. Never had any issue with it during the fall/winter/spring but it sure is making things difficult now.Any ideas or suggestions? Thx, FT

hey there guys i was curious if any of you guys had any ideas y my water temp is running hotter then it ran like a week ago i changed my fan clutch and that helped but still isnt light it was when i first got the truck any ideas

Hey Gang...Just to skip hunting over the site I know you guys can spit out the place to get vacuum pump rebuild kit. Mine is finally starting to leak engine oil and getting the side of the block hosed with engine oil. Not enough to drip on the floor of the shop but it won't be long. So could you point to the information on the vacuum pump rebuild kit and any helpful hint would be great.

Hello. I'm a first time poster, but have gleaned countless amounts of valuable info from this site. Thank you all. Now the Question. I'm adding edge juice w/ attitude as well as a pac brake to my truck. Both require to be plugged in to the obd2 port. (My truck is an auto trans) I have seen obd2 splitters on the web but don't know if the separate components will operate at the same time. Thanks for your input.

I'm getting this code approx once a week........scanner says it's a low input. At first I thought the MAP sensor was bad, so I replaced it. Still get the code. It's a little irritating, since the truck runs a little weak after it pops that code. Mods are in my sig, with the exception of a Quadzilla boost fooler, which I haven't added onto the sig. I added the boost fooler over a year ago and have had no issues, this is a recent development...started a few weeks ago. Could the fooler have failed?

Thnx for reading my thread fellas. I'm sure this will put your mind to work alittle... So I bought this truck 2002 4x4 built Auto AFe cold air, Edge comp, stock turbo & inj.... with bad no. 6 cylinder. Local shop pulled the motor and replaced piston, rings, rod, bearings.. etc only on the 6 cylinder all others looked real good.... Now truck smokes alot at idle.. and I have weird sound coming from the intake. I put 1200 miles on it and truck runs real well. Changed oil and filters yesterday and found out it consumed over 1.5 gallons of oil since only about a gallon drained out. Is that normal for a break in of one cylinder ( the hone did need a course hon…

Last month set pressure went from 19psi to 16psi. I tweaked the adjust screw back to 19psi. Today it is at 22psi idle. 19psi no load. Been readjusting for the last year. up down, up down. Is this normal? Thinking I will just watch it for a while.

Got the cows unloaded before they got too hot.. I been hauling short trips to pasture all day, and this last load I got up on the road, and it was bucking all over the place.... clouds of blue/gray smoke. I shut it down and bumped the starter. No lift pump. I opened up the drain ____, and get a good stream only while the starter is engaged.. no 30 second run-on. The air dog was extremely hot. After half hour of open hood cool down, it started to pump again. Engine ran perfect (no smoke and easily rapped up to 3500 ) then about 30 seconds later, the pump shut down again. Mike, if that ecm is …

Can anybody give me a suggestion for a fuel additive better than stanadyne ?

So the past few days when I drive my truck The tach will sometimes bounce around until i let off and it idles then it will work and stay perfect still. Then I go to give is gas again and it works then all of a sudden bounces around then works. But just yesterday it seemed it was idling a little more i guess choppy than normal then seemed to run better later on after it was shut off. I put a code reader on it and got p0336 which is crank sensor A circuit range/performance. Also got p1690 which is a guess a communication error with the ECM and crank sensor I think. So should I just replace my crank sensor? Is there anything special you have to do other than remove the start…

Okay So I want to swap my auto to manual. I have been looking at the G56 trans in the newer Ram's. But I want to know some input here. What is the best manual to buy, mind you all I plan on doing with this truck is towing and dd basically. Not really gonna be much sled pulls or racing. What are your thoughts, from those who have the manuals?5-Speed or 6-Speed? :think:Also is the swap worth it, I know a few guys on here have swapped. So was it worth the swap? :shrug:I really want to get rid of this POS 47re I'm rocking now. Thanks guys.

I recently bought a scan gauge II. since install I have noticed while idling the reading for the apps sensor will jump from 0% to 10%, + or - a little. It does this very intermittently and only for a split second. I notice no change in the engine rpm just the sensor reading. Anyone else see a similar reading on theirs?

I did not use my apps and im thinking that's why my cruise stopped working. Is there a way to trick the ecm into thinking I still have an apps? Perhaps a resistor stuffed into the apps plug?

So i've been contemplating doing the switch mod for locking my TC. but i have one unanswered question. with the switch in the off position wiill the TC lock on it's on normally? then if i want to lock it then i cna flip the switch? right not mine works great. but there are times when i'd like some engine braking and other geek reasons to be able to manually lock and unlock it. Thank all.

Is it true that our auto transmissions don't reach full cooling capacity until lockup in 4th gear? I have not got my Posi-lock installed yet and I doing a tow with my travel trailer this weekend. So when going up a paved steep road that would normally be in second gear for a few miles. Should I disconnect the vacuum line and run in 2 wheel drive low range in 4th or 5th gear for optimum cooling of transmission? I don't have a Trans temp gauge yet to monitor.

the last two weeks i have been losing power that acts as if i am losing my chip power completely.i have great fuel pressure a new filter. I can throttle up slow and get no fueling smoke or power and then it will kick in and feels normal,boost seems to be normal ,close to 20,but no power. the only change i have made inoperation is adding some two cycle oil to the fuel for lube cause i had a injector that would stop working partly at idle. i have checked the chip connectors and they all seem tight. Could use some help figuring it out.

Hello All, I have been to this site many many times. It is a great site, and the search functions work great. However, now I am in need of help, and the search function did not tell me much. So here is my story.I drive a 99 dodge ram 2500 4x4 with the 5 speed manual. An edge EZ is my only known mod (I bought the truck when it had 250,000 on it), I added fuel pressure and boost gauges (based on opinions from this site). 260,000 miles. I am moving my wife, 10 month old, 2 dogs, and a cat 1900 miles from MT to PA for a job, so I got my trusty dodge loaded up and am hauling a 16 ft flatbed loaded to the gills with all my worldly possessions. I am driving down the …