2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Story goes, I parked the truck, pulled the motor to build up a little bit and when the truck was parked everything ran and worked fine. Truck is a 2002 p-pumped 24v, 4x4, six speed. I finally got to put the motor back in, was out about a year d/t a deployment. turn the key and nothing, no cranking or click or anything. Swapped all the relays out to determine if it was the starter relay, still nothing. I ran a jumper wire from the where the relay would create a hot terminal with the "start" position and the truck fires over and runs fine. I'm obviously getting power from the ignition switch to the relay and the junction block, etc. I'm assuming that the "no bus" con…

Does anyone still make a tapped fuel filter cap for the 2000 - 2002 style fuel filter assemblies. I checked GENO's and he doesn't carry them any more apparently, and a Google search didn't turn up anything. Just looking for an easy way to bleed air out of the system after filter changes since this is the highest point in the system. Thx

Well I yanked my RV275's back out. They started to misfire at idle again. Looking them over and the nozzle where only lightly sooty and the nozzle holes were very visible even to the naked eye. So I already talked to a shop in Lewiston, Idaho about retuning hem back to pop pressure. Like I told him I found injector with a wore shim and I'm pretty sure this injector is my problem. So I'll report back what I find out when I get them bench tested.

Well as I was crawling under the truck I noticed the straight pipe was looking rather rotten and full of small holes. So I now replaced it with a fresh piece of pipe and no longer have to worry about that. What was amazing is the clamp came off good and was totally re-usable. I didn't break them or gall up the threads. I chased he threads with a nut and anti-seized them again and back on the pipe they went. 11 year old clamps and still going.

Finally got all my gauges installed. What is the acceptable range for the Pyro? It is an ISSPRO? I will be towing this weekend and just wanted to get an idea of what to expect.

The problem I'm having is with the cruise ,on and I come to a hill it holds speed but coming down it will gain not correct . So I push the coast button and will not slow down I've also tried it on the flat and coast will not work .The accel botton and cancel does work . I'm think coast button is bad or the cruise servo? I have change the vaccum lines and I have no leaks thanks jim 1999 dodge ram 2500 quad cab 2wd 5.9 cummins stock 5 speed

i will be installing my first lift pump friday ,it on a used 2002 2500 4x4 dodge(duh) 59k miles .anyone have any advice on items not covered in the instructions ? my stock pump has 11 psi at idle and since i have seen all the horror stories in the forums i decided to fork out some cash and do it. is the line from the pump to the fuel filter larger than stock , if so should the line from the filter to the vp44 be increased also ? thanks for any advice

Saw something unusual today. My temps are varying much more than normal. Usually temps stay between 190 and 195. Today, 181 - 200. The thermostat is only 3 months old. All temps are per my scan gauge. What's up with this?Thx,Eric

Is anyone using a front axle disconnect that gets rid of the vacuum actuator like the kit from 4x4 posi-lock? Just looking for some feedback before I buy. Thanks

Ok found out my truck is actually having a hard time starting with fuel pressure showing on the gauge. Never had this issue before and dont know how long its been going on.I have remote start and almost always use it. Until my truck gets to slightly under 1/4 tank. I have a bad cut DS so at times under 1/4 tank it will start then stall or not start till I prime the fuel system with the key bump trick. Well last 1/4 tank I remote started it watching the gauge. Started up as normal but seemed to take a bit longer to get FP up. Ok I says. No more remote starts till fill up. Next day I prime the fuel system first, it cranks a couple seconds then starts. Let it idle a bit …

How can I tell the gear ratio on my axles? Just curious is all.

Just a quick question guys, can the valves be too tight, or tighten up over time?.I went to chck my lash and went through in order, didnt find any loose, but all were on the tight side, the feeler gauge barely fit. I expected to find loose ones after 170k.Thanks for any input.

We all know what our engine's blow-by looks like when it's warm/up to temp... minature vapor cloud/stream depending on the severity...How about when my son was cranking for about 10 seconds and I was bleeding off the HP lines? Just clear air.Same when allowed to start the other day.... about a minutes worth... just clean clear air. I had to check twice with my thumb to confirm there was air movement.... I could stop the air easy coming out the pipe, and in about 5 seconds, I could finally feel a little pressure under my thumb. There was a slight 'poof' when I let go but no steam or vapor.Safe to assume this is vacuum…

OK a few day ago this happend and I wanted to know your guys thoughts and maybe what you think the problem could be.The truck, '99 3500 4x4 5spd CTD.OK it was about 50* outside, I started the truck, it started like normal, didn't let it warm up or anything. drove about 500 feet and shut it off for about 20 minutes. Tried to start it and it would only crank, didn't try to fire or anything. First I checked all the fuses, under the hood and in the cab, nothing. I then tried taking out the power puck thing, that splices in the plug that goes to the back of the Injector pump. I took it out and still nothing, put it back how it was and nothing. I then went inside and check…

Finally got the vp44 plumbed, primed, bled, and wired. As my son was cranking the engine to bleed the hp lines, I got this psssh, psssh, pssssh noise.... Now, I'll let you know what isn't done yet on this 'several fixes at once' Intake is still open to the world. Air horn is not there, along with any form of intake pipe or turbo. Radiator is not in, steering gear is not in, Lines are dangling from the pump. I did allow the engine to 'fire' for a couple seconds after tightening the hp lines....just to confirm my 'new' pump is a runner... and that part is good. Back to the weird noise: I would swear the noise is coming out the …

My Son replaced the D70 in his 99 week before last with a limited slip unit he found at a local salvage.. He and his buddy were having trouble getting the Ujoint cap bolts tight so they opted to swap the yoke off his old axle:think:To make a long story short.. he now has a leaking pinion seal.Does the Dana have a crush sleeve on the pinion like a GM?? If so, any recomendations on how to torque the yoke back without changing the pinion depth??

Getting ready for a new locker here is the case spreader i built.Flat bar is 2"x1" with 1 1/4" tubing weld to the ends and 1" acme thread. .

My truck, since new, has had an ongoing fuel gauge issue. Warranty replaced it 3-4 times. Warranty ran out years ago, but occasionally it will freeze at full. The second to last time it got stuck at full, it started registering fuel level after driving on some bumpy, rutty forest roads. It froze again at full just before the new year, so yesterday, I took it off road to try some bumps and sure enough, it started working again. Anyone have any ideas what would cause it to stick and then get jarred loose by rough roads? Thanks.

I didn't like the quick connect fittings that came with the air dog so I change them over to jic/an fittings and new parker hose. If any wants the parts list let me know.

In the box I got; 1 lip seal with plastic guide sleeve 1 seal install/driver/depth gauge 1 smaller thin seal (steel backed with rubber od and id) with same ID as crank OD, but smaller OD than cover hole 1 black rubber 'square profile' o ring that has same OD as cover hole 1 black rubber 'rectangular profile' o ring. Is this for the breather cap seal? 1 gear case gasket Is any of this 'extra' stuff for the actual crank seal??? Ok, methinks the steel-backed smaller seal actually snaps inside the main part of the big crank seal... AFTER installed to proper depth... Hence "2 piece seal…