2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

when my 02' is cold in the morning I have really bad dead pedal no power, until it warms up for several minutes. Then is runs fine for a while then until the truck is good and heated up I am getting intermittent dead pedal throughout the day. I checked the codes on the ignition and am getting P 1693, P 0122 and P 0216. I am not getting any white smoke and I am not getting any check engine light and no rough idling at all. I just replaced my apps with a Timbo apps sensor....still having the same problems. I've checked the maps sensors and both are clean. My question is does all this add up to a bad VP44 or is there something easier and less expensive I can check before div…

We have the 47e automatic transmission on our 99 Dodge Cummins... purchased with around 150K and we just rolled over 200K... When our truck was in the shop around 175K I asked our mechanic to flush the transmission and he was hesitant since we did not know whether the prior owner had regularly changed the fluids. Any thoughts? We are currently experience the torque lock problem around 45-50 mph that is addressed in several other posts on here... so we are going to replace the alternator in the next few days... So any other suggestions on preventative measures to prolong the life of our transmission would be great! Thanks

So I've been thinking that I want to put a oil trap on my crank case vent. My biggest problem is that I dont want to spend $200 on a kit. As I was thinking about options for a home made setup, I got a crazy idea...why not use the stock fuel filter housing? I have a FASS 150 on the truck already, so that housing is just sitting there doing nothing. Im going to look at what all i would have to change on it to make it work as my oil trap. Any ideas/gripes/complaints or comments about the whole idea??

Once I log in to this site how long do I stay logged in before I am no longer logged in. The problem is that by the time I type my post and hit the post button I am told that I am not logged in at all, so what's up.

I'm thinking this brake will fit mine, and I shouldn't really have to have the downpipe? I have 4" MBRP from the turbo back on mine now, and this looks like it also fits an HX from my 02 ? Buddy isn't quite sure if it's all there, thought maybe you could tell by the pictures since you have one on your truck http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-2nd-gen-all-products/547752-banks-exhaust-brake-f-s-edmonton-ab.html - - - Updated - - - I guess I shoudn't have just asked Mike on this seeing others are running the brakes too :banghead:. Anyone else want to chime in?

My truck is a early 1998.5. It dont have a vent tube in the front of the engine (puke bottle) is this common on the first 24 v?

http://york.craigslist.org/cto/3397995651.html I'm going to check out this truck on Sunday and was just wondering if you thought it was worth the price. It is now lowered to 18,900 but still seems a little high to me. I was thinking somewhere around 16k. 181,000 miles. Here's a list of the things that were done to it: Air Dog 150 K&N Cold Air Intake 18" XD Wheels with 33" ____ Cepek Mud Country's Bed Tool Box Head Unit Tow Mirrors Also Included: 5 Oil Filters 1 Air Dog Filter And a free oil change:thumbup2: It hasn't been chipped or anything and hasn't been used for towing, just a daily driver.

I know this has been hit on before but could not find it. Anyway I changed my oil the other day and the filter was full to the top, when I started unscrewing it it started leaking out. It was never that full in the past with my other motor, it was always about 3/4. This is my second filter change sence I put eng. in so dont know this motor as well as the other eng. Maybe thats a good thing If you knew my other motor you would get it.

So a little history on the truck its all stock no mods at all. Im driving the other day and my check gauges light came on, All the gauges looked fine except the voltage gauge. So the batteries have seen better days i got new ones. Installed those and the truck was fine until about 15 minutes driving it comes on again. I ordered a new alternator from oreillys and put that on. Still nothing. Im really confused as to what it is so i charged my batteries to get enough to where i could see the codes. Its throwing the p1698, p0252, p0234 codes. I also realized my Oil pressure gauge isnt reading nor is the voltage. Any help is greatly appreciated.Thank you.

Thanks to the forum for my birthday wishes. Hell, I'm 72 and just hope/wishes they keep coming around. Mohok in SC.

I know there was a thread that has a good source for the filter and hose but now that I'm looking, all I can find is the filter.

Passenger side firewall next to AFE intake I have a solenoid with a green and yellow wire to it, it has a vacuum line (I think) to it and a exhaust muffler. Can someone tell me what it is and what function it performs.

Has anyone repaired a terminal on the female side of the plug. Deustch connector. I have looked @ the website but I didn't find the repair of that 50 pin connector.

So I just got my used Edge comp box installed and took it for a test drive. I haven't put the stealth cover on yet so pump isn't tapped yet. When I got home after test drive I shut it off and restarted it. The voltage was dropping down and then coming back so I got a testlight and checked the heater grids. It was turning them on one at a time for at least a minute or longer. The engine was fully warmed up and at halfway on the gauge. Is this normal? I have never really paid attention to it before. Could the Comp box be causing this? Where is the Air intake temp sensor located? I may clean or replace it.

Hi, I have a 2001 dodge ram 2500 4x4 vin 6 truck , and need to know turbo model number, looks like my waste gate si stuck or damage. According to my bluetooth scanner the turbo pressure is around 29 psi when idle and up to 37 psi when reaches 2100 rpms. I had the sensor replace because low voltage code p235 (I believe this was the code number) and I was able to duplicate intermitent signal data dropping all the way to 12 psi. But even before I had sensor replace on idle it was showing 29 psi. Regaridng turbo ID I could see some numbers inthe front side but I was expecting something that leads me to HX35 or HY35.

Started noticing fuel dripping from the fuel filter. Looks like it is coming from in between the top of the cannister and the side. I have taken the top of the cannister off the block, looked for cracks and debris. Then I put a new filter on and it is still leaking. I don't know if the manufacturer is putting in smaller o-rings or what. Any suggestions?If I can't figure this out, looks like I will be putting a new filter setup on the truck and removing the factory cannister.

On our way home from a road trip today, cruised for about an hour and a half at 70mph. We got off the highway and go to take off from the stop, and it takes off in second gear and would not shift. I pull over and check the fluid, it looks fine, smells fine. I take off, and now it does not have first gear, but seems to shift/run fine in all other gears. I did notice a week ago that it would hunt @ 45 mph alittle. Thinking maybe the govn solenoid in the trans has gone out...I think I might change the oil and filter, been @ 50k since it was done. And change the two solenoids in the trans, and cross my fingers....Any other ideas?

I am changing the thermostat in my truck today and didn't know whether or not to put some sealer on the bolts for the thermostat housing.

Thanks to a great set of instructions (by Mike) I just finished my high idle fooler modification. All of the switch functions appear to be working as advertised. I just have to have the software enabled... I would guess I have about 5-6 hours in building the wiring harness and install... Thanks again Mike!

20 amp fuse is blown. replaced starter twice and replaced starter relay help.