2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ok Gang...I've got a project on a 2002 Dodge Cummins 2500 (no not mine). I've installed a fuel pressure gauge it holding 15-16 PSI at idle and about 11-12 PSI at WOT but at low speeds that I've seen. Here is the problem the codes have P0216 code present no others but its got a partial dead pedal. You can mat the pedal to the floor and it barely rolls along at 5-15 MPH then all of sudden like the ECM or the VP44 wakes up and hang on she powering up. There is no codes for APPS sensor so I'm not considering the APPS sensor. But now I know that 2 cases of ECM failure I seen where the throttle is limited (CajFlynn is one of them). Knowing both the ECM and VP44 are $1,000 dolla…

Seems to only do this when it gets warmed up...Coming off of the highway, stopping, then turning, it feels like the rear end has a locker...It does have limited slip. But sometimes if feels like its grabbing when you turn, and you can almost hear the tires breaking loose a little. I did change the rear end oil @ 1 year ago. I put Valvoline duralbend synthetic blend 80w90 oil in it. And it says its for limited slip...Maybe try a different oil??

Does anybody have to reset the Timbo Apps on a Bi-Weekly basis? It has been happening now for 3 months. I disconnect battery for about 2 hours, then i reset the APPS and truck runs fine, then two weeks later i am having the same issue. Any feedback would be appreciated

I have all my gauges and comp ran through the hole that the clutch rod goes through so im gonna have to change them out. Do you with stick shifts drill a hole or is there a better spot?

ok.Going to highlight my ignorance in suspension/differentials here.Heard a squeak like brakes 2 days ago. Ignored it as it kind of sounded like it was comming and going like brakes.Kept coming back and as I was backing in today I jumped out and had wife back it up as it seemed worse hard turn in reverse.Not brakes. Definitely sounded like from the diff/u-joint area. I wondered if I had run out of fluid so pulled the rear diff plug - theres fluid but it really is burnt and darker in color and obviously there's metal on metal contact for that squeaking sound.Heres the tricky part. Its Saturday evening. Im in a state park and moving around 20 miles with 5th wheel tomorrow t…

There's a guy selling a VP44 pump tester on a local classified site. He says it eliminates the ECM and wiring and will run the engine from the tester. He's only asking $150 for it. I'm wondering if it may come in handy one day. Could even use it to run an engine on a test stand.

99 Vp44 truck cranks slow and then quickly sounds like a very weak battery condition as far as the starter sound. It sounds like the starter is not giving enough power to turn over, then it barely starts. When it starts, it runs great(like usual). I even had someone else test my batteries and they are both new. I checked starter wiring, and it is all clean and tight. Any suggestions? Starter? it's about 3 years old.Thanks ahead of time,Will

All, A while back it was requested that when I get my trans redone, I let everybody know how it runs... Since ATS is such a strongly debated company in particular. I went with the Stage 2 trans, and 1400 - 1500 RPM stall 5 star converter. I've had this a couple days, so all I have is reviews on basic customer service and how it drives. First off, it drives great. The low stall is a bit of a compromise, as I could probably be a bit higher, 1800 - 2000 RPM and I would be a bit faster and have a bit faster spool. However, I like the fact that I can grunt around town without having to rev. The kickdown is goodand seems to mesh well with my engines pow…

My trucks got only 68,000 on it with the PO216 code. The thing that bugs me is it runs real well, with a little lesser mileage, but, the code was cleared and has not come back. At least with a half hours worth of driving anyway.The problem is, this truck is the one I use primarily for long distances. Blue Chip Diesel says it won't leave us stranded. I am hearing conflicting reports on that.How many you guys ever got the 216 code and your truck kept going many more miles? Thanks a bunch for any advice.P.S. I'm already scheduled to get a new VP on Tuesday. Just can't put my finger on it though.

Was doing some research yesterday evening as I try to do on these trucks and realized that I put my EGT probe in the wrong spot. I installed it post turbo and from what I read last night they need to pre turbo to get an accurate reading. I researched this before I order my gauges as I've done before and I have no idea how I missed it. I know some can go post turbo but I want an accurate reading. I don't think I have gotten to hot seeing as how I only touch 1000* once before (hadn't towed heavy with it yet and I don't have a programmer.) I read somewhere that running it post turbo you lose about 300* on your gauge. If that's true I prolly wont be in a rush to change …

Just like the title says... it's summer and hot here. I've only owned the truck since spring when it never dropped below 40 out, I would like to figure this out BEFORE the cold weather hits this year if possible. I go to the gym 4-5 times a week and it's only a 2 mile drive so I am considering leaving my truck run while working out to prevent possible problems due to frequent short trips and not warming up properly. If I don't have it I will probably do the high idle mod so I can keep the motor warm and EGT's above 300. My truck stays fairly cool even in 80-90 degree weather at idle... I rarely see EGTs over 270 once it's sat for a minute or two, no matter how warm the mo…

I've got a 98.5 24v 2WD and 47RE auto, 175k miles. When I first start the truck, it takes a long time for the trans to shift from 1st to 2nd. After that, it shifts fine thru all gears after a stop sign, light, whatever. If I turn it off and go into a store or something, when I come back and start the truck again, it takes a long time again to shift from 1st to 2nd. After it does, it shifts fine again. So, it happens whether the truck is cold or warm and only the first time after I start it. My last fluid/filter change was about 25k ago. I have a slow leak that I haven't found yet (I have seen tranny fluid on the ground behind the right front wheel) so I keep the fl…

Have not been around for awhile been working out of town. Now that I'm back home I want to upgrade the fuel filter system. Here is my ideal. I would like to remove the stock fuel canister and replace with the Fleetguard fs19596 with water in fuel sensor and Cat 1R-0750 after the raptor pump(frrp). After looking at the filter heads and the space where the canister is I think I can fit it all in there. What do you guys think? Will the raptor be able to handle the filters after it? Thanks

Well fellas, I can now officially call myself a dumb@$$!!! I made a very stupid mistake! As y'all now, I'm installing an engine in a guys 6.7 Dodge 2500 because of his neglect and stupidity! Now I'm having to tow my own truck in. He apparently doesn't realize that these trucks run off diesel fuel.... he ran my 98.5 3500 24 v out of diesel....and drive it 60 miles with it spitting and sputtering!!!! He calls and said hey something's wrong with your truck... I turned in my driveway and it bucked hard and died!!! :mad::banghead::banghead::banghead: I asked why didn't you call me 60 miles ago...his response was I knew you were busy working on trying to finish up my truck a…

I hate to speak to soon but I can hardly control myself. I finally found the permenant fix for the torque convertor locking and unlocking. Its an nv4500! I found a donor truck on CL and got the guy down to $1800. its a 2000 model and it was a dually but had been converted into a mud truck. The owner rolled it 30 minutes into his first outing and the cab and driverside body got destroyed but the motor and trans/transfercase are still good. best part is I shouldnt have to source any parts except a shifter boot. Getting it for such a good price should enable me to at least break even when I sell the engine and my auto trans/transfer case. My auto is still good and has good f…

Well i think my VP just bit the dust, truck was running just fine i left it running went in a store came out 10 mins later truck wasn't running, It cranked right up idled fine but when i gave it throttle it was not having it exhaust was gurggly and sputtered alot, so i limped it home about 10 miles going maybe 20-30MPH it would clear for maybe 3-5 secs at a time then cut back out. I got codes P1693, P1689, P1688,P0252,P0251,P0232 which = VP44 bad. I checked my fuel filter housing and it was full of fuel and it is still getting plenty of fuel so the Lift pump is good as far as i can tell, is it possible for it still work and the VP be crap? I also cracked the 1s…

Well, I'm pretty sure my 47Re (I think? It's a 99) is toast or the converter is toast. Here's what's going on...When going from "P" to "R" you can feel the tranny "jerk" as it catches gear. All seems fine In Reverse. When you go from park to D 1 2 3 or from reverse to D123 there is no catch or feeling that it's going in gear. If I get onto it, it will finally start to move but you can tell there is major slip. On the hwy it will constantly search for a gear, grab launch forward all of a sudden, slip slow way down, or what feels like a downshift and the motor will rev way up. At 60mph I'm turning almost 3k just to keep it going. Pulled up to a relight earlier and felt the …

So I have searched here after reading an article on CF about fluid to use in the NV5600. Some say Pennzoil, Amsoil, OEM..etc. First off, is the Syncromesh transission fliud made for the GM brand the same stuff reccomended for this tranny? From what I can read I think it is, just makes a fella question it when GM sells for less then half of what Dodge dealers want. I have also read the theory of adding the limited slip (1 bottle) to the tranny when doing an oil change to it. Has anyone in here been doing it to theirs? I think i'm going to do a fluid change on mine and not sure what to put in it. I can't get the Pennzoil or Amsoil here in Canada where I live so it's gonig …

So i bought the gauge with the gauge kit and am getting ready to hook it up, Do i need to use the pressure gauge isolator shown in the pics? and if so what does it do? also i have a schrader valve coming off of my vp44 can i plumb the gauge in there?

Trucks been throwing the 1689 code. I started to test the truck to see how often it throws the cel. 1689 every time. It will cut the power for a few seconds EVERY time it hits 2500ish rpms, it only happens at 2500rpm's. why would it be doing it at a specific rpm? I thought for a while it was only doing it under hard acceleration but its cutting out at 2500?????? Any ideas???