2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Fellas, I bought an 01 2wd and parted it out for the interior (leather) and I am putting it in my 02. It had an overhead console and I removed the wiring harness from it today and saw the wiring harness coming from where the temp sensor is mounted, comes back and ties into the main wiring harness, not just plugged in like I had hoped it would. Has anyone ever added the overhead console and had the same issue and could tell me what you did? Also the junker had remote door locks, just wondering if it's just a matter of plugging them into the harness in the door and they'll operate, or a different harness all together going into the main? :whistle:Would like to know before I…

Has anyone here swapped out stub/outer axles on a 98 and put in 2000/2002 axles and bearings? I have looked at and measured both axles and bearings, 02 axle just a bit shorter, inner bearing the same, 02 has the studs in the bearing flange. Both use the same u joint and mount to the knuckle on the 4 bolt holes. My goal is to have the free float rotor with the newer set up. Please include any pics and if you had to modify anything to make it work. Thanks Dave.

will need to attack the balljoints on the 2000 ram, and I figured with the '98 probably needing it too, I'd snag a press and kit for removing/installing.Well, turns out the 2000 and up (until the AAM axle came out) uses a different set of tooling than the 1999 and down! What changed in those years? Mikes thread (the one that almost changed his friends' gender) said he 'got by' with the harbor freight press. Are most presses like this (getting by?) or is there something out there resonable priced, and effective?Seen several with the tooling that is 'close' but not perfect.. And I know that even the best made tool …

I recently bought an 02 3500. It has no body. Previous owner had a welding rig body which he took off and in doing so cut all the tail/stop/turn/reverse lighting wiring.Does anyone know where I can find rear light wiring diagram so I can figure out which wires are what so I can:banghead: wire up some new lights?Thanks!

I think my fan clutch is not disengaging. Looking for a fuel efficient fan clutch if one exists. I did a web search and came up with this article. Just skimmed so far, but it has a lot of good info. Maybe Michael wrote it? http://cumminsengines.com/uploads/docs/cummins_secrets_of_better_fuel_economy.pdf Would love to discuss more here on maximizing fuel economy without getting the thread closed due to decisive conversation. It's good for all of us!

I've noticed over the last few months that there has been a slight loss of coolant. I pulled back the carpet on the passenger side, and noticed the insulation under the carpet is damp. I'm concluding that the heater core is leaking. Here's my questions.1. If I wait until late summer or fall to repair this, and if I don't use the heater, will it continue to leak into the cab?2. I'm thinking this is a job that is too big for me. What should I expect to pay to have this fixed?Thanks to all who respond,Eric

ordered myself up a steering column gauge pod for a trans. temp gauge. Its an autometer pod. I'm a little thrown off by it. There are no obvious ways of mounting it? It came with some sticky tape and barbed fasteners. How are these pods monted properly? BTW, I have not broke into the column to see what to expect yet. I figured someone on here ought to know?

Fellas, I bought a front leather heated seat and I'm taking it apart to get the drivers side recovered. I have been able to get the tabs on the seat cover off the front and start pealing the cover off the foam, but it seems like it's either glued fast to the foam where you sit , or possible wire clips? I see small wires that appear to dig themselves into the foam but don't want to go ripping at it until i get some insight . Also, has anyone repalces their factory heating element with the replacement from Geno's Garage? Wondering if they plug right in to the factory plug:think:

How can I tell which of my heater hoses is the inlet and outlet? And I use the inlet hose for flushing, is this correct? I know there's an easy way, but can't find it anywhere. Thanks. - - - Updated - - - I see the two hoses, one goes to the water pump, the other comes out of the block and goes directly into the heater core. I'm guessing the one from the block to the core is the inlet. Is this correct?

Ya I posted on the other forum too, I need a answer asap, I bought a brand new set of tires and wheels off of a 2013 dually (alcoa wheels) I want to put them on a 2001 dually. I only paid $1000 for the whole set. I want to know if anyone has done this. The alcoa wheels are thicker. The dealer said they will work with my lugnuts. My lug nut is flush with the end of the stud and the stud does not have threads on the last 1/4 inch. Is this ok? I dont want to have to change all the studs. anyone else?

Ok never say never..... Just started one day old, when I put turn signal on R or L and I steep on the break pedal the blinker goes dim and quits blinking, release break ped and blinker resums normal blinking.??? What, and where do I start? Thanks Dave..

I wrote earlier this week about my oscillation/uneven braking. The manual states the following concerning turning the rotors on a lathe. Can someone please tell me what this means? Is it something a machine shop will know when I go in there and tell them what I need, and, does this imply that the hub needs to with the rotor for turning? Thanks. The lathe must machine both sides of the rotor simultaneously with dual cutter heads. Equipment capable of machining only one side at a time may produce a tapered rotor. A hub mounted on-vehicle lathe is recommended. This type of lathe trues the rotor to the vehicles hub/bearing.

I need help in locating where to purchase the two rods that go into the wheel cylinder for the rear drum brakes.

For anyone who has a SCII - is there a battery in there that holds the memory of it for when the truck batteries are disconnected? The last two times I've had to start over with the fuel level calculation as when I disconnected the batteries for a battery swap, and then for my alternator, I lost my settings in the SCII. As my fuel gauge is currently inop I kind of rely on it a bit for my fuel level, and getting it calibrated takes several tanks of fuel, which for me translates to about 6 weeks, as I don't have far to drive for my job. Thanks.

I've noticed that when I apply the brakes when coming to a stop that my steering wheel will oscillate slightly at slow speeds as I decelerate. Any ideas where I might start with something like this?

Hopefully you do it yourselfers find this useful. I sure do, and figured I'd pass it on. I've used these guys for years at work. Nearly everything has a drawing, good specs, and honestly... they have everything. They even break it down by material, material properties, reactivity, etc. mcmaster.com Just last night I ordered the below items to redo my fuel pressure gauge. [TABLE=class: OrdDtlTbl, width: 858] [TR=class: OrdDtlRow] [TD=class: OrdDtlLnNbrCol, align: center]1[/TD] [TD=class: OrdDtlPartNbrCol]5220K61[/TD] [TD=class: OrdDtlQtyCol]4 Each[/TD] [TD=class: OrdDtlDscCol]Easy-align Brass Compression Tube Fitting Straight Adapter For 1/8" Tube Od X 1/8 Male Pipe…

I seen a lot of you adding after market headlight to improve the oe ones. I have always liked the way the stockers look and until the oe ones started to glaze over. I had been satisfied with the light they put out. So it stock is not what you want this thread is not about upgrades. I bought a set of headlights only from A1 Auto. They cost $75, came with new bulbs and no turn signals. My old turn signals look just fine. Eagle Eyes is the brand . I don't think the photos show either very well. All in all I am very happy with how it turned out. The big question is Ho long will they last. Only time will tell that one. If you after major upgrades like HID or Sport these aren'…

As you may know from my previous posting that I have this strange sound like a hoot sound and can watch my fuel pressure drop when it happens. I have completed the fuel tank access door in the truck bed so I full freedom to diagnose any issues. So now I want to blow a small amount of air pressure into the fuel line at the top of the tank to check for leaks in the suction side. Will it do any damage to the vp diaphram or other components if I blow about 10 psi into the fuel delivery lines to check on leaks?I removed the fuel module/ anti slosh tube and found my draw straw partially blocked by the fuel module housing. it was too near the side so part of the plastic housing…

Wanted to share a very useful thread. I havent done this yet - but will be doing it soon. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/360472-broken-maplighst-overhead-console-check-out.html

Paint the frame and axle with rust bullet paint, the dana 80 is getting a new locker and all new 1/2 fuel lines