2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain
Discussion of the 1994 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel non-power train. This includes interior, air conditioning, heating, lighting, body, suspension, brakes, stereos, etc.
2,740 topics in this forum
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Hi all, I ran into a problem when I was trying to change my front driver side brake line on my 99 4wd. I went to Napa and got a brake line, but when I was about to take the old one off I noticed where it mounts to the frame there is another line that comes and t's into the brake line I'm trying to replace. It's kind of hard to visualize so I'll try to take a pic. The brake line I bought to replace the bad one didn't have a fitting for the other line. Should I but the line from the dealer? I can't seem to find any parts stores that have what I'm looking for. Thanks
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I am thinking about the pros and cons of doing this conversion using heavy duty wire and relays.Have any of you done this conversion?There is a lot of information on other forums,I have to do some thing if I am going to do much night driving. I'd appreciate any of you suggestions. Thanks Art
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We all need a good news story now and then! This spring I decided to update my interior and replaced my lower dash in my 2002 4X4 quad cab. After I was done it would not start! Long story short, took it to local Dodge dealer, they found a pulled pin in a connector, $760.00 later truck was home. We pulled our 30 foot fifth wheel and two quads to Silverton Colorado! Ole blue ran perfect! Got 10 mpg average, pulled all that stuff over a 11,000 foot pass, dry camped for two weeks along a beautiful creek. Love that truck! Gods creation is awesome!
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I can't find the problem. Replaced all but one tie rod end and that one has zero play. I have a wee bit of play in my track bar. But less than when I replaced it and I never had a death wobble then. I hooked a pry bar in the left wheel and pulled on it. I was amazed at the flex in the tie rods. Could that be the problem? Or incorrect toe in after replacing the tie rod ends?
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On the 4th of July I by a deer going 60 mph towing my travel trailer. Lots of momentum and didn't feel it that much. Pushed the right side of the bumper in and tore up the rubber. It did out a slice in the right radiator support. I am attempting to upgrade the bumper to a Buck Stop bumper. Been on my list of mods, so I figure I might as well take the money to restore to OEM and pay a little extra to get a welded steel bumper with brush guards. The deer didn't fair well. Toast.
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Sorry I haven't been here in a while but since I have no real expertise and haven't been having any problems... Anyway, Now I have a problem. By the way, I keep trying to make a donation but it keeps failing. So, my issue is that my power door locks will not lock. Not with the fob, not with the button, not when it's put into gear, nothing. However, it unlocks as advertised, i.e., with fob, when put into park, and with the passenger unlock button, not the driver's. So, I replaced both driver's and passenger's switches (located on each respective door arm rest). Has anyone had any experience with this issue? Thanks for any help you can give.
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I'm in need of one bad! Somehow the one I have broke. I can't find one just anywhere. It's the larger size clamp that hold the boot on the inter cooler.
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My seatbelt light usually stays lit even though I have my belt on. i used to be able to just wiggle the buckle but lately that has stopped working or only works for a few minutes. Anybody else have this problem or know of an easy fix? Thanks
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I shall trudge on just not as happy as before so, after a 4 month recovery I was able to restart progress on my ram last month, its got some of its new forest green paint (toyota FJ special edition) and it looks amazing. I was hoping to share a story on the build of the truck as well as informative pictures for your own projects. Unfortunately 5 days ago my laptop crashed due to hard drive failure, nothing was backed up. I lost all 20 thousand-ish pictures and documentation to aid in me putting it back together again. Obviously not all where from the truck but at least a thousand were, none the less I shall move forward. As far as progress goes the cab and …
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I am replacing my busted grille and I found out that the fasteners that attach the 4 points on the grille to the grille bracket are missing. Anyone know what size these bolts are and do they have a washer? There are 4 of them.
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Well I had to haul some scrap to the local yard and after everything was emptied I weighed the truck with me in it and it weighed 6440lbs with me in it. 245lbs. Does my truck only weigh that much?? I had 3/4 tank of fuel and it's a 2wd. Seems a lot lighter than I expected??
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If I abused my equipment I could understand this, but I just changed antifreeze and Tstat about 8-9 months ago. Like the title says WHAT happen. I talked to Michael a little while ago and the only thing we came up with is, rust settled in the block and began its reaction after flush. Because I flush every time I change the Tsat and antifreeze. I just don't get it. I changed my 05 about 30 days later, real close to the same date, same brand of antifreeze and it looks just fine.
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I like the extra studs next to the posts for powering/ adding electrical accessories. I read some where batteries act like a giant buffer or capacitor and help reduce electrical noise. Do deeper cycle batts help a bit more in any way than regular starting batteries?
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I know I need to change my fluid but sometimes I will barely touch my brake pedal and the front brakes will almost lock up. It doesn't do it all the time. Pedal is great but I don't like how sensitive they are. Do I have a problem with my system? Has anybody had brakes like this?
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I bought a set of tow mirrors to replace the stock mirrors on my truck. I got them from Rock Auto. There wasn't an instruction or even a tip for installation in the box that I got. I got them installed but I was left with a few questions about the install. For instance, the new bracket on the driver's side door is in the way of the mirror adjustment switch. I cannot fully install the door panel. Has anyone else ran into this? The panel will fully install with the switch removed, but that does me no good either. One of the three nuts holding the mirror in place hits the switch. There has to be something that I can do. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Howdy again all so it's been about a year and a half or 10k mile's since i put on new Brake pads front and rear. and they are begining to squell when i apply them so guess it's time for new one's but, while i'm into it the factory rotor's probaly would like to be relived of duty after 200k mile's. I've been looking around and Found this website from a friend who use's it and like's them http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/Premium-Dimpled-and-Slotted-Brake-Rotors.php . I want the best one's since i'm towing alot of weight most the time so the Drilled and slotted one's are a must. Comparing number's to number's with Napa and this site they are the same other then the m…
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Ok the last of the metal wire netting has popped under my driver seat and now I'm basically sitting in a lawn chair. Anyone have an ideal if theres a company making aftermarket seats? I've looked around but no one has is making a seat that will accommodatefor the built in seat belt. Has anyone delt with this proble yet?
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I read several posts on here about clutch cycling and decided to check my a/c system pressures. Today at 72 degrees my pressures were 225/30 on max a/c with blower motor wide open. Air inside cab is good and cold and clutch stayed engaged. I thought I was in good shape, then I noticed as soon as I turn the blower down or change from max a/c my clutch starts rapid cycling and pressures change to 150/40 when clutch is engaged. Air is still blowing cold on the inside. Any ideas what is going on? Too low R134a maybe?
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My steering pulses while turning. It stops when the steering wheel stops turning and it doesn't matter what position the wheels or steering wheel are in. Also there is no whineing or noise from the pump. Any ideas?
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Couple days ago, we posted back and forth on the merits of moving up to the 19,5 inch rims/tires. I just talked to my neighbor, who's worked on these from time to time. He's a little concerned that the bead area on these tires aren't real 'ruff country' friendly. ie: It doesn't take much of a side-shot to push the tire off the seal.. frozen ruts, branches, etc. The older rims he's worked with really didn't have much of a lip, it was more like a taper, ending in a small little raised lip. which made it really hard to 'seat' the tire.. and when it's time to dismount, shoot, just let the air out and it w…
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