2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

So i have everything wired up, gauge, amplifier, probe. The only thing I have left is literally the power and ground. I spliced my power for all my gauges into the dimmer switch, but what have you guys spliced in for power for the actual pyrometer? I ran out of time yesterday and literally I was at the point of "eeny meeny miney mo." Any ideas that is a good 12v key source and not hard to get to?

So I've been searching the forums and ran into a few topics about some aftermarket injectors will not only give more hp/tq but also increase fuel mileage. One of these injectors are the rv275s. I see they are good for about +40hp/80tq over stock injectors and somehow get better fuel mileage? Are there any other injectors that do the same and how does an injector which can supply more fuel give better MPGs? I am a little lost on the theory of this. If the engine requires "X" amount of fuel at the rpm and load..how does a different injector give better fuel mileage when it is producing the same "X"?? Is it the spray pattern? School me please

I heard a ford the other day that had major whistle. I've taken out the silencer cone and running a BHAF. Without going to another turbo unit, what's the next step in creating more whistle?

I am wondering for us that live in more moderate climates if the high idle kits are worth doing? Not exactly sure if they are for everyone or just those who live in cold areas? Will the mileage feature work for all climates too?

I've noticed that since I installed a Raptor 100 and have 14+ psi consistently, after the first filter change the filter is going a lot longer than it used to. I bet that before the new pump I was returning little or no fuel to the tank. Pressure was too low. I've noticed that the first stock fuel filter change was very black. Now I can go 10,000 miles and the filter is still white. I think that first filter scrubbed all of the built up junk out of the system. I am still getting some crud on the inlet filter of the raptor. My intention is to install a simple metal inline filter on the suction side Of the fuel pump. I am thinking of installing a couple of isolation ba…

So I decided it was time to install ball valves to make filter changing on my airdog easier. While I was doing this I changed the fuel filters out and pulled the regulator apart so I could inspect the ball and spring. Well now the pressure slowly builds and it takes a good 25 seconds before the pressure hits 18psi. Im at a total loss. This is verified by two mechanical gauges. Pickup starts perfect. Its an Airdog 2-165. The regulator is different than the spring and ball. It has a spring that pushes on a plunger type metal piece to regulate

I had to smog my truck on Saturday and the tech told me I passed, but barely. then he told me to check my exhaust myself next year. I asked him how should I do this? he said "snap the gas and check the tail pipe for smoke". As I was trying not to laugh, I asked the tech - what if it smokes what should I do? He said you should definitely take it to the dealership. Funny thing, my truck is completely stock, and brought it to him hot and it doesn't smoke. I think he was concerned over my mileage. So to prepare for this next time around, does anyone have a good cat from a 2nd gen 24v they want to sell? oh, and don't forget to snap your gas!

Finally got my EV mechanical gauges from DAP and need some help. This is my first gauge install and I'm not great with wiring. How do you bleed the air out of the fuel line going from the needle valve to the gauge? FYI, I'm skipping the isolator and just running fuel in the cab.

I've kind of hijacked a couple threads talking about temperature/pressure gauges and their accuracy. Some say that mechanical gauges are more accurate, others seem to believe electric with sensors are just fine. My current gauges are isspro black face and bezel and red pointer. Want to stay with same looking gauges. Sounds like the electric gauges with sensors opperate well below the standard battery voltage with some kind of regulator. So what are your recommendations? Electric or mechanical?

I have no problem understanding how a mechanical pressure gauge works, but how does a mechanical temperature gauge work? Seems like you'd never get the accurate temperature to the gauge through a little tube that's not insulated.

1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 w/heavy package Auto Build Date 9/98 ordered on 10/98 received 1/99 custom ordered Black on Black with Leather/power seats, wood grain trim, Sun Roof, and Heavy/Towing package Glow Shift Guages - EGT, Boost, Trans Temp current mileage - 196013 Engine- 5.9 ISB 53 block Edge Comp Smarty S-03 DAP 100hp sticks ARP studs HE351cw - latest addition PDI manifold Diamond Eye 4" exhaust Trans- I'm on the 3rd trans... 1st one went out at 56000 6/02 - Factory replacement installed 2nd failed at 154K and rebuilt with Suncoast Stage 3 48re guts - Thanks to Ernie at Suncoast NV271 T-case Dana 60 up front Dana 80 in b…

It has been awhile since I posted about my cracked 55 block. I have that band-aided for now and it mostly holding up. I have however been experiencing some strange phenomenon with my fuel pressure. When It is cold outside <35F, my fuel pressure is around 15.5-16.5psi at idle and when I drive the truck a good ways, it will creep up to around 17-18 at idle which is fine. The other end of the spectrum is when it is warm outside. >75F, the fuel pressure will be around 18.5-20psi at idle but never really goes above that. I have the AD150 and full big line kit along with a needle valve. Sometimes the fuel pressure fluctuates a little but it is slow and the gauge do…

Found this on youtube, I have never seen anyone put one on B series. Pretty neat. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-A0CU0I_zJw

I got a fleetgaurd replacement valve for my stock engine mounted fuel filter. Are the two little O rings par to the installation or additional replacement rings for the sealing plunger? Figured someone here already has done this. Only like $13 from Geno's. I've been waiting for changing the filter to replace the drain valve which leaked last time I did a filter change. Had to flip it open and closed a few times before it sealed. Maybe just dirty. Plus after new lift pump install I increased pressure from about 8psi to 20. Might have brought on deferred maintenance of the drain valve. Sounds like I better clean the input screen to my Raptor too. Dreading another seemi…

I think this is the cause of the AD 100 giving off this sudden intermitant whoot like sound as if air is shootin' thru. Those moments show a very quick drop in Fuel pressure. Could it do this even at a half a tank though? Just wonderin' what your thoughts might be.... I can't just extend it with a piece of hose and clamp. It will cause a hang up with the lower sleeve of the module extending and retracting

Just bought 125hp sac injectors and am excited will be ordering the cross over tubes tom and in a week or to I want to upgrade my turbo. I usually dd with my truck and stoplight race. Would this be a good turbo? For my set up or should I just go with a 62/65/14. During the summer I go fishing alot 45 min drive. So I want a good combo. Hopefully my signature shows up to tell u what I have.

I bought new injectors and my engine serial number is less than the number websites say. Do I need new crossover tubes or am should I buy new ones cheapest I found was like 23 dollars each o rings iincluded.would it be cheaper at a cummins dealer?

I want to install a boost gauge on a stock truck. Wish to be able to know if I've got a boost leak and have a starting point for other mods. I have Isspro gauges currently and want to match. Looks like they are pretty cheap, so I want to install one. This will help to evaluate if I need new boost elbows, etc. My gut feeling is that my boost is not providing all it should. Seems easier to install a gauge than to build a boost testing unit. Although that would be cool too. Can't find that article or thread. Where does the boost gauge get tapped into the boost system for reading?

Well I finally got my Smarty S03 and installed the SW:5 software and HOLY **** the throttle response and bottom end power jumped up significantly!!! Huge difference and still drives very easy if you are putting around. I do have a couple questions for anyone that are familiar with these programmers. 1. I noticed that there is lots of smoke if you stab the throttle before the turbo lights off. Is this part of the programming and is there a way tor reduce this some? I realize that it's wasted fuel and I don't need to smoke an intersection just to I can get up to speed quickly. 2. I figured with about 60hp increase on the top end of the power curve it would raise …

I was just wondering about motor oil. I am getting ready to change mine before a big trip and was thinking about switching to synthetic. The ONLY reason I would do the switch at the moment is for cold flow properties. At the moment, I am running Delo 400 and when it is -20 to -30 in the mornings before work, it takes a good 5 minutes or more of idling to get up to 40 psi. That cant be good!! What does everyone think? Will the synthetic really flow that much better at those temps? I have never run synthetic before.