2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain

Alright this first turbo is an HX35 from a 95-98 12V. http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/854472/fullsize/hx35-hybrid-kit-(12).jpg%20alt= And this turbo is an HX35 from a 99-02' 24V, so who can figure out the difference?

Hello,I have a 1995 2500 4x4, at the moment it has a tick over 123k. I bought the truck about 3 years ago from a German guy, and i know it was well maintained. It is stock other than a Bully Dog CAI, a 4" Diamond Eye turbo back, and a boost elbow. I also have an Amsoil Double By-pass. Thats it for the motor. I have the oil analyzed, and the last one was all well within tolerance. I try to take the best care of this thing I can, as I hope this will be my long term truck. But I am having a problem with oil loss. It does leak a little bit from the turbo oil return, where the oil goes back to the pan, (a little insight on how to repair this would be great too!) bit thats it f…

:spend:Got home last night with my '98 (I was misinformed, I originally thought it was a '97) This truck was originally sold new in Littleton Colo, and spent most of it's life in Colorado, and ended up in the Panhandle of Nebraska. Salt wasn't much of a factor on this truck. Doesnt really matter to me though, cause it was rolled on it's side. I got it mainly for donating everything I need (driveline wise) into my '94This truck came with the snow plow option and tow package. It's got the Dana 80 rear with limited slip 3.54's DHD Tc, It was a nv4500 (now missing). Extended cab, long box. I got a good c…

Alright, just looking for some advice or maybe some direction towards a video or thread that I can't find on pulling the engine. I have all the necessary tools since on base here they have a hobby shop with lifts and cherry pickers and blah blah blah. Basically I have an oil leak or maybe 2 :banghead: lol. The guy who fixed the KDP back in the day when my dad owned the truck didn't do a good job with the gasket when he put the gear case cover back on, and I'm thinking my crank seal is leaking as well. And my oil pan gasket is going, which to my understanding you basically have to pull the engine due to that snug crossmember in the way. Can anyone help me out that has …

I've been wondering this for months now and decided to see if I could get a list to drool over for when I win the lottery. Basically, what would the perfect engine have? Here is a list of things it should be capable of in the end: [*]No EGT issues, be it from low temps or high temp resistant materials (both if possible, cost is no object here) [*]As good of MPG as possible. This means high quality everything, exotic parts, I'm talking the same crap the F1 cars use. This is where most of the list should be categorized [*]High HP. This engine shouldn't be aimed at 1000000HP, but rather the most HP you can reliably make with all the other components, k…

Ok, you probably are aware of my project: putting a '97 cummins+6spd(2002) into my 'ultimate ranch vechicle'Which is my '94 2500. (the one I snagged in Wyoming)Very interested in using you 'ultimate' P7100 mods, but I'm curious on it's total driveability. I'm not the only one to use this truck when completed.. Wife will jockey it too! I just got her used to NOT USING THE ACCCELERATOR when starting from a dead stop.. (actually relying on the built-in torque of the stock cummins) Our experience is based on our '00 cummins with 6 speed.what does your recommendations on the P7100 do for 'out of the hole'? Will it react sim…

i have been searching all over the web and am led here.. my names jason im from michigan i got my first cummins truck month ago. put it together bad transmission., got that fixed now wiring problems , tack twitches , brake light comes on, abs,and my overdrive and lock up turn on and off loose power, what i am thinking. i want to like it .lol. their are spliced wires all over. their were two wires on pos of battery one was red, both of them broke, one the wind could have blew it off, i have the engine harness off, and most of engine compartment wiring . tomorrow goes the filtering through trying to figure out whos bad..

now that I got the '00 3500 woes behind me.. time to get serious in wrangling up parts for my ranch truck! I have the '94 2500 original diesel pickup I bought last year. The Automatic went south, and the previous owner basically sold parts off of it. I bought it mainly for body parts to fix up my other rams... BUT I have decided to put her back on the road. So, in some of my earlier posts, I wrote how maybe I'd go with a 24 valve, and possibly throw the Allison 1000 behind it. Then figure out how to wire it all up. I've done a little searching, and getting a 24 valve already mated to the allison (sae #3 bellhousing) from …

my 98 5 speed is starting to act funny between shifts wont get in gear hard to downshift and close to impossible to down shift into 3rd gear and up shift into 5th gear I must rev it up past 2k if I want it to get into 5th downshifting is a whole other story its wearing out my brakes so bad I get the truck loaded with wood for my firewood deliveries and riding the brakes all the time is not working out very well for my pockets I already flushed and filled the trans with GL-4 Napa gear oil and it did not do anything the fluid that came out was NASTY green and had almost an auto trans feel to it very watery like that's my options ? rebuild ? 6 speed swap ? how hard is that …

I just purchased a 97 2500 4x4 cummins Automatic at an auction. I have an issue. The tach, speedo, cruise, OD, are not working. I have been doing some research and just wanted to get as much info as I could before I start buying parts. I have taken off the crank position sensor and cleaned it up, would like to know if there is a way to test it before i re install it.

So, yeah. My 24V 2001 HX35 6spd with silencer ring MIA and BHAF would absolutely scream when loading the engine and being around 20-25psi boost (towing). It had Edge Juice w/Att., 5" Diamond Eye, BHAF..My 1997 12V HX35 built auto with silencer ring MIA and BHAF is hardly noticable at 20-25psi under same conditions with OD and TCC on. #100 fuel plate, 215 pump, 4" Diamond Eye, BHAF. Both have same downpipe...Any ideas why the dramatic audible difference? Is it basically the 12 less valves and the 30 less base HP??

My truck's manufacture date is 1/97. I can't tell if it's a 1-terminal or 2-terminal connector without pulling it out or whatever. I need to replace mine (gauge lays on coldest point, SG2 says -40*F..) Genos has a 1-wire (gray) for $55, and a 2-wire (black) for $45. Judging by the pictures, they're both the same big threads. '89-'97 '98 RockAuto has a 1-wire (gray) for $47, and a 2-wire (black) for $28. Judging by the pictures: the gray one is big-threaded with teflon type sealant. http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=40546&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/SMP/TS382_PRIMARY.jpg The 2-wire is sm…

My '97 12V seems to take a little cranking to fire.. like 5-6 seconds.. doesn't matter if its the first start of the day, or if it's been running for an hour. This just seems a little on the long side.. My old '96 would crank right up, especially when it's warmed up already. Same with my 24Valve..Think it's possibly a timing issue?

My 1998 12V has been intermittently cranking slow for about 6 months. Recently it started happening more often and more severely. It would crank slow and then sometimes stop turning at all but with the starter still trying. I assumed it was the batteries so the first time I couldn't get it to start at all (about a week ago) I bought 2 brand new Exides. No change. I can still get it to start after a few tries and once it starts it runs great. No smoke, no noise, good power. I checked the resistance of the battery cables and they were fine so I pulled the starter. It had never been out before and with 220k and a lot of short trips I figured it was toast and too…

Well I haven't been around the forum for a little while and I figured I'd share my starter rebuild. It basically completely died and would just click. So I went to larrybs.com and ordered myself a starter rebuild kit. The kit includes a new plunger new contacts and brushes. Install was pretty easy there was a little soldering involved but if your handy it's not to bad. I made a little video of my rebuild I case anyone runs into this problem in the future. Hope it helpsI kind of yapped on and on in this video and I'm no master mechanic so if I'm calling something the wrong part or whatever I apologize ahead of time. Also this was the first video I cut with iMovie so I had …

Hello all, I am new to this forum, I am also new to Cummins engines and I am pretty new to diesels in general. I put an old N/A 6.2 in my gasser 1992 Suburban. I was following some leads on 2-stroke oil in diesel and found a huge thread on the Cummins forum. Well, from that thread I followed Michael to here. Michael I just want to thank you for all your research. I am about to put all that information to the test with my 6.2. The main reason that I posted here is to find out some things about the 12V engines. Someone told me that the 12V had poorly designed head, I don't know if that is true or not. Could someone fill me in on this? I want to get a Cummins for an…

Is anyone running full synthetic oil in their 12 valves? Just curious on if our engines are able to use it and if there are any benefitting factors or if it's something we should stay away from.

Fired up my pile yesterday after it sat for a week or so, and it's hazing at idle pretty badly. Grey smoke, smells like [thick, but] healthy exhaust. I have straight exhaust with just an expansion chamber and I can see a pronounced 'puff' of thicker smoke that makes me think it's one cyl in particular. Searching for hazing or haze didn't turn much up so I figured I'd post for thoughts before I pull the trigger on a set of RV275s from DAP (24v head, P7100 pump). I'm heading out for a weekend of offroading tonight (towing heavy of course, probably 23-24k through PA mountains for 250+mi each way). I don't really want to try to check/set timing before I go, but it's poss…

Usually a bad tps will cause erratic shifting. The most common symptom is the trans will shift in and out of overdrive, or the lockup torque converter will lock/unlock while cruising at steady speeds. It shouldn't cause a lack of rpm. You can check the throttle cable/linkage by having someone step on the throttle inside the truck and then see if you can move the linkage at the injection more to full throttle. If you can then the linkage needs to be adjusted. I have honestly never seen a throttle cable stretch. When they go bad they usually just break. If this occured after the recall, then maybe the tech did not adjust the linkage properly. Here is some informati…

So today i got my pre filter and seal in the mail so i ran over tho the hobby shop and changed it along with deleting the pre heater. When I went to hit the primer on the lift pump my little rubber thing just fell off and my primer was kinda stuck. It wouldn't pop back out once i pushed it in and i can't get it to come back out. Has anyone ever had this problem and should i be worried about anything. The truck runs fine still but just kinda wondering. Thanks.