Ok... I've followed most of the steps (yes only most) but I get to Number 8 on this diagnostic tool and I get 44.2k ohms.... a bit more than the 5 or less suggested value.  Where is the best place to purchase a replacement or have mine rebuilt??

 

Thanks,

 

Tim

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/175-p0336-crankshaft-position-sensor-signal

 

 

 

8. Ensure CKP sensor connector and ECM connector are still disconnected. Using ohmmeter, checkresistance between ground and terminal "C" (Gray wire) on CKP sensor connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace ECM. Perform TEST VER-5A . If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground on Gray wire between CKP sensor and ECM. Perform TEST VER-5A .

Ok. Have you replaced the crank sensor? If not I would start there first. If the code is still coming even with a new crank sensor then I would run this test in the above link.

 

Even I'm a bit confused on step 8.   How can measuring the ohms between the wire and ground determine if the ECM is bad if the ECM isn't even in the circuit.   But this is what can out of the book.  

Listen to what Mike says Tim. He is the second gen guru.

 

BTW, glad your in Florida.... me in Oregon so I don't have to guard my ECM all night

 

Sorry Tim, couldn't resist

Well I have been able to get a hold of one of the local dealers and a new ECM from them is $800 plus they have to program it with it in the vehicle. The programming is $100. I have several friends that have DRB3's and I have not been able to set the vin info with it there for its become a dealer only product for me.

Right now we don't even have one smoking gun to a possible need of a ECM so let that slide for now. I will not even suggest a high dollar part before finding two tests that condemn that device.

The lines I have checked, checked out ok...  Finally got around to checking #8 and instead of 5 ohms, I got 44.2k ohms.    That was with ECM connected, didn't make sense to check it disconnected. 

 

I have also ran new ground wires at the PCM.  I'm not just throwing codes, tach is dying too.  It's only one code though both Crank and Cam sensors have been replaced.  Other things that have died are the feed for backup light (found out after it quit that the backup feed voltage was supplied by the ECM.  The signal to the lift pump died as well.

 

This is my weekend to work on the truck...  aside from the test procedure, what else can I check...??

 

Tim

PCM, ECM and VP44 is self grounded through the passenger battery cable adding extra grounds does nothing.

 

No. It suppose to check disconnected. The reason for some of these test is to check for shorts to ground. So it should show infinite.

 

Suggestion is to see if you have any friends or members here with a ECM you cam barrow for a quick test. Might drop a pin on the member map and see who is around you. I still will not suggest replacement of the ECM there is still not enough to convince me its it. Now if you swap ECM's and the problem goes away then I would highly suggest it. Just make sure to find a like model truck to swap with. I think Whitelightning is a early 24V...

So does the test work for early second gens as well as the late second gens? I know some had CKP and some didnt.

That's the thing get a ECM from a like model truck and the test will work just fine but get a different model then you end up with errors for cam sensor possibly.

Imbodie what year truck do you have? Have you done the crank position sensor?

Sorry for the late posts... has been a LONG weekend...  

 

Yes, I have replaced both CKP and CMP sensors (crank and cam).   My PCM did have a ground wire to the body (firewall) that connected to a bolt that held the PCM in place so I ran an extra ground to the battery terminal anyway.  I am TOTALLY convinced that it is the ECM that is causing the issues.  First my Backup Light voltage dropped and STAYED at 7 volts... Then my LiftPump quick sending signal and then I was getting conflicting reports from Cam to Crank sensors and now its just down to loosing signal at the Crank Sensor.  I had the shop that installed the Crank sensor validate that it WAS good and there were no issues with their installation.  

 

About a month ago it went all crazy reporting RPMS in the 4K range and died... I pulled a stereo out thinking that it might have been cross wired and let it set a couple of weeks...with batteries disconnected.  Hooked it all back up and ran fine for a 30 mile test drive.  Next day did a start and run in place and it started throwing codes after 5 minutes..  Some times it just throws a code, other times the tach dies, but mostly the tach dies (even when it doesn't, you can see it skip).  Pretty sure the stereo is not the problem, its the same wiring that it's had since I got the truck, though the new stereo does have BlueTooth and I thought that MIGHT be an issue... (thought, now pretty sure the stereo has nothing to do with it).  I don't believe I have anyone near me with 2000 5spd that I could borrow a ECM from and then be worried that I might fry theirs... but I will look again.

 

Ultimately if the ECM does need replaced, what is the best vendor to deal with?  Should I have it rebuilt or get a refurb and turn mine in for core?

 

Thanks,

 

Tim

Consider... They could rebuild it.

http://www.kleinbottlecomputer.com/

 

http://www.kleinbottlecomputer.com/collections/all-services/products/dodge-1

 

As for dealer I've been informed the dealer is no longer selling new computers everything is re-manufactured.

Do you have personal experience with this company? Do you trust them?  There is a group on Ebay that is offering repair/return for $388 based in Florida that has pretty good (excellent) ebay reviews.  

Auto Computer Specialist

221 S St Rd 7

Plantation Fl 33317

 

Oh, I checked, no one near me has a 2000 truck.

 

Thanks,

Tim

I went on and chose Auto Computer Specialist, they are a repair and return shop and had good ratings for all Dodge-Cummins transactions... They will test the ECM first and if no issues return it to me for the cost of the testing fee, about the same cost as the dealer had to test the ECM.  Will let  you guys know how it turns out.

 

Tim

Sorry... I've never had a ECM failure yet in 246k miles.

After looking at my ECM, it makes me wonder what happened with the truck prior to me getting it... most photos I see of ECM's have a metal tag, mine did not....  Also at 360k miles so maybe there is a magic mileage where it stars to effect the trucks.  Of course I think I could have done damage trying to drive a LARGE backup light off the line that I guess is fed by the ECM?? 

 

Who knows... the ECM made it to the repair shop today, should have some communications with them by monday or tuesday... Will keep you guys in the loop.

 

Tim

ECM has absolutely nothing to to do with the electrical or the back up lights. I've got a twin set of 100w bulbs hanging on my axle. Then got four 100w bulb hang on the front bumper. The only difference is the light are relay feed.

 

So as for ECM failure the only way I know to kill a ECM is feed it lots of AC noise from a failed alternator. Heat not even a issue. My truck see the summer heat of 105-115*F every year. Heavy towing and the whole bit. Then goes into the freezer ever year and ran at -20*F to -30*F and still no electronic failures at all. But I'm very quick to check the function of the alternator and be sure the AC noise level is low enough.

Is there an electronic device that I can add on that acts like a filter to reduce AC noise?

Is there an electronic device that I can add on that acts like a filter to reduce AC noise?

 

 

That's the problem. Everyone is band-aiding the problem. Get rid of the source of the noise and you won't have to modify the electrical. Like one gent I had on the phone told me of all the extra ground wires, tin foil, and filters added to the electrical system. I told him he had a false positive fix. So he would understand it I told him to remove all the junk, tin foil, grounds, and filters. Now test drove and all kind of problems where going wrong. Shifting issues mostly. So now I told him to unhook the alternator. Problem gone. So he replace the alternator problem is fixed without all the filters, ground, tin foil, etc. Thing is if your creating noise from the alternator and use these band-aids then the noise is still there but the isn't a strong just limited.

 

Here is the alternator diodes which 0.3 AC volts.

 

I'm sorry to say tin foil, grounds and filter will not fix a burned up diode pack.

 

Thanks Michael, I just thought if your a long way from home a protection device against a sudden burnt diode would be great till you get home and change the alt.

Too much stuff to hack up. You would have to add filters to every device ECM, PCM, ABS, AirBag, Central Timer, Overhead... Anything with a electronic circuit would require a noise filter. So instead of hacking up a good electrical system its just easier to replace 1 alternator. 2 bolts, 1 nut, unplug a wire and un-do a belt.