Ok... I've followed most of the steps (yes only most) but I get to Number 8 on this diagnostic tool and I get 44.2k ohms.... a bit more than the 5 or less suggested value.  Where is the best place to purchase a replacement or have mine rebuilt??

 

Thanks,

 

Tim

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/175-p0336-crankshaft-position-sensor-signal

 

 

 

8. Ensure CKP sensor connector and ECM connector are still disconnected. Using ohmmeter, checkresistance between ground and terminal "C" (Gray wire) on CKP sensor connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace ECM. Perform TEST VER-5A . If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground on Gray wire between CKP sensor and ECM. Perform TEST VER-5A .

I see.......

What is the best way to confirm AC voltage on your DC system?  I had the alternator checked at a local shop, they said not passing AC voltage, but who is to say how good their alternator checking tool really is...

Oscilloscope would be the best way.

 

Digital Volt meter is a OK way to test. The only thing I would change is test at the alternator not the battery.

 

So the repair shop called finally...

 

There was an issue with the computer, the section that monitors the CKP had a bad transistor.  They suggested it likely came from a jump start, though said it could have just been age as well...  Can't think of a time I've actually jumped another car so I'm betting on age....   Either way, has a year warranty and they loaded the current software version on as well.  Now to get it and re-install and see how it goes.  I will still check for rampant AC voltage when I get it home and the truck fired up JUST in case.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

Tim

So... we are at the end of this story.... The computer shop (don't know who he is, but he follows this forum)  sent me back the computer after having fixed a transistor directly related to the Crank Sensor section of the computer.... told me put it back in, you may throw a code or two but it should be good.  Right back to throwing codes every couple of minutes.... called the shop and they said it can only be 3 things.  Your computer is now good, you either are passing AC, the Senor is bad or the wiring is bad.... SO, I pulled the wires on the alternator, started up and immediately threw codes.... That was out... today I replaced the sensor and that is where it gets interesting... the sensor the repair shop put in literaly fell  out in my hand... the only other one I have personally replaced had to be sent to the dealer because I couldn't get it out of the case it was so tight (the dealer almost didn't get it out)... the one that I replaced it with was snug going in... so the ONLY thing I can see is that the repair shop that replaced the sensor for me last August put the wrong sensor in the truck... and then told me that it MUST be the truck when I went to have them check it a couple of months ago because the "sensor checks out fine".......

 

End story... 

ECM had an issue which was fixed 

Sensor installed by Tires Plus was totally the wrong one

Wiring harness apparently still good...

 

YAY MY TRUCK LIVES AGAIN!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks guys, you have all shared knowledge that has helped me through this journey.

 

Tim

Tim thanks for a conclusion to this story. I know it will help others in the future.

My only comment is after having as many bad experiences as I've had with tire shops, I couldn't go so far as to trust them to do a sensor change out. I say this due to the underhanded carelessness, sometime near criminal mechanical conditions they've left me with, only caring that I paid the bill and out of the way for the next customer.

One final, FINAL note... 

First, yes I was lazy and paid them to change the sensor.... Yeah, not making that mistake again...

 

The rest of the story.... 

So while I was checking the alternator for AC, I isolated it... in isolating it (no I didn't disconnect the batteries) I shorted from the alternator output to a ground wire?? anyway I blew the 140 amp fuse in the primary fuse block... you know the one, it's bolted in between two large power leads??  So wasn't having any more codes, but my alternator quick putting out 13.4v  Thinking it is internally regulated I replaced the alternator (mind you I pulled it twice because it tested good the first time on the bench, and then I took to local parts dealer and had it tested IN the vehicle)... new alternator and STILL not regulating... hhhhmmmm went to DTR and researched and found out about the fuse... $4 fix at the end of the day.  EVERYTHING is NOW working on the truck... a day and half well spent, probably should have done it right the first time last August.

 

 

And YES corporate repair shops SUCK!!!!!!

 

 

Thanks guys.

 

Tim

Tim I know the best 2nd gen repair shop in the U.S. We can all meet up with our truck problems, camp out in his front yard on a river, sit around and drink beer till our trucks are all fixed up.

And YES corporate repair shops SUCK!!!!!!

Thanks guys.

Tim

  On 6/16/2015 at 12:53 PM, Buzzinhalfdozen said:

And YES corporate repair shops SUCK!!!!!!

Thanks guys.

Tim

Not really a fair statement. I was a mechanic at one of those "corporate repair shops" for years and I took a lot of pride in my work. I did everything in my power to make sure the customer left well informed and happy. Sorry you had a bad experience but you have to do your homework before letting someone under the hood.

I cannot get my last statement to go out of the quote box

 

well to just qualify the statement a bit more, these guys had done other repairs on my truck and not been the most reliable... but they have been consistently almost good enough... will still use them but getting less and less need for it. I'm basically getting the tools I need to do most the work...and they fill in when that isn't the case.

 

Tim

If the tech isn't willing to talk to you that's a huge red flag to me. I always took the time to bring people back and show them what the problem was and how I came to that conclusion.

If the front counter won't let you in the shop there's a good chance the tech is a knuckle dragger and you don't want him working on your car.

Ask the tech a few intelligent questions. If they know you're not an idiot they'll be less likely to cut corners. Don't expect to get straight answers out of a salesman or service writer, they typically have no idea about what's going on with your car.

Also if you find a tech you like ask to have work scheduled so he can work on it. Makes the tech feel good and again less likely to cut corners.