I'm trying to get the lower egts on my 99 dodge 24 valve nv4500. I have the banks monster ram, pusher 3.5 inch hot side inter-cooler hose, bhaf air filter, fass 95gph fuel pump, straight piped exhaust, edge ez tuning set on 2 setting. I am trying to get better fuel millage, i have never pulled anything with it. i travel at 65 to work and my egts are about 600 to 630, how can i get them lower, thanks

It depends on what you want your truck to do.   My definition of a "great setup" may not be what your definition is.  No issue with that, but goals need to be defined.

8 minutes ago, KBecker443 said:

Damn that stinks, I had multiple guys tell me this is the turbo I needed for my truck and what I have done and want to use it for. 

 

Maybe you have said it already, but what all have you done and how do you want to use it?

I want to use the truck as a strong and reliable daily driver, use it a few times a year to pull a 5th wheel and I also use it for hunting and sometimes just fooling around. Not going for 800HP or anything of that sort but a good strong truck that I can use for pretty much anything. I’ve always wanted a 2md gen since my uncle had them when I was growing up so when I had the opportunity to get one I figured get one and make it do everything

single turbo vp44 truck that tows should be limited to a ~500 hp in my mind.  Beyond that and they start to become no fun to tow with.   A 500 hp vp truck is still a lot of fun to drive.   That means a 62 mm inducer ish sized turbo, and some 7 x .010 or .011's  I would choose the later.  

 

 

 

 

So if I was to sell my turbo or trade it for a 62 you think it would be a better overall truck? You know more about the trucks then I do

After you deal with your gearing yes i think you would be much happier overall. 

 

Again don't do anything until you regear or get smaller tires.  Without that change no turbo change in the world is going to help

Are you able to tow a 5th wheel with the lift and 37's? My folks have a 5er with OEM flipped axles and his 06 on stock rear suspension and 34's is about as close as comfortable for dirt road towing.  

 

Anyhow... if you're going to continue running 37's and want to tow then a gear swap is in order. If the towing is occasional and you don't want to spend the cash then lockout OD until you're above 60-65. 

 

Have you ensured there aren't any boost leaks? What kind of boost are you running with the EGT's at 1100 and 65 mph. 

 

It's likely everything is due to the gears, tires, and larger turbo.. but it's also good to verify there aren't any leaks. 

 

 

 

Wasn't there another guy on here wanting to ditch his 4.10's.... 2nd gen too??

 

 

 

 

A friend of mine pulls his 5th wheel with 39s. Gear swap is going to be 1st on my todo list now. I can build 35lbs of boost I have my Quadzilla set to defuel at 35. Should I look for 4.88s or what do you guys suggest? 

Just now, KBecker443 said:

Should I look for 4.88s or what do you guys suggest?

 

I would consider the 4.88 gears because at 65 MPH it would be right at 2K on the tach. Towing that would be top of the torque curve and tow like a dream. 

Is his 5th wheel lifted? It seems like the 5er and the aft section of the bed would be way too close. I've seen plenty of guys contact their campers with 35's. 

 

4.10's would put your gearing about where it was for a 265/75R16's and 3.55's. 4.88's will take some the the mechanical disadvantage away, similar to stock tires with 4.10's. It all depends on how much towing you plan to do. 

3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I would consider the 4.88 gears because at 65 MPH it would be right at 2K on the tach. Towing that would be top of the torque curve and tow like a dream. 

 

In OD yes, but the truck would be at 3K rpms in 3rd and 65 mph... so there is a trade off too. 

 

 

His 5th wheel is lifted he mainly takes it to the dunes in california. I’m getting ready todo a stage 2 pan off kit for the trans as well as a deep pan to help with the trans so trans should be in very good shape for towing. My biggest worrie with the truck is lowering EGTs and a ABS light I can’t seem to get rid of. 

1 minute ago, KBecker443 said:

ABS light I can’t seem to get rid of. 

 

That's because of the tires. You need to have the ABS reprogrammed for the revs/miles for that tire size. Also double check all 3 sensors (replace if needed). Then the rare thing is to have a broke tone wheel. I had my right front break the spot welds and the tone wheel would spin. 

 

2 minutes ago, KBecker443 said:

My biggest worrie with the truck is lowering EGTs

 

Gearing will fix that.

 

3 minutes ago, KBecker443 said:

’m getting ready todo a stage 2 pan off kit for the trans as well as a deep pan to help with the trans so trans should be in very good shape for towing.

 

Talk to @Dynamic here he's our Dodge transmission expert and builds a killer transmission. Being I've a got a 46RE in my 1500 from him and it a mean little transmission.

That makes sense. 

 

So you need to think about how you plan to use the truck year round. 

 

4.88's will be the most "fun" around town, and do great for towing at higher speeds of 65-70. You're big hill climbing speed will likely be limited to about 58 based or rpms and not power. 

 

4.10's will be a little more sluggish around town and not tow as well at 65-70, but you will be able to downshift to 3rd at 60-70 and pull hills at 2300-2700. 

 

So it's a tradeoff. 

Pretty sure my abs computer is bad I’ve replaced both wheel sensors and the one on the rear diff, every computer we hook up to it says a short of some sort. 

I think 4.88s would be best for me. Considering I only pull the 5th wheel 3-4 times a year less than 500 miles each way. 

Any place you gear company’s you recommend or that I should stay away from?

Just now, KBecker443 said:

Pretty sure my abs computer is bad I’ve replaced both wheel sensors and the one on the rear diff, every computer we hook up to it says a short of some sort. 

 

Did you test your wiring and determine which sensor or lead is has the short? As for the ABS computer, it can be rebuilt for $130 in Moscow, Idaho at https://modulemaster.com. Really great company and warranty for 5 years. 

 

https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/

It’s been months since I have tested it I can’t remember what it was, can I still drive the truck without the abs computer?

yes you just wont have a speedo

My speedo is off 15 MPH any ways haha

And doesn’t move until I’m going 15-20mph 

I would test the wires at the ABS computer.  truck off, Use a paper clip to "jump" the connector at the pumpkin, then use a multimeter to ohm out the circuit at the abs computer.  

 

It should be VERY close to 0.00

 

I would expect your mph gauge to read before 15-20 mph.  that and the abs codes make me thing you have a wiring issue.  There is a junction above the drivers front tire that gets nasty and corroided.  

10 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

I would test the wires at the ABS computer.  truck off, Use a paper clip to "jump" the connector at the pumpkin, then use a multimeter to ohm out the circuit at the abs computer.  

 

It should be VERY close to 0.00

 

I would expect your mph gauge to read before 15-20 mph.  that and the abs codes make me thing you have a wiring issue.  There is a junction above the drivers front tire that gets nasty and corroided.  

On the fender well?