I think I cleaned my cables for the last time, Its time to replace them all. So ive been looking into a set from custom cables, but for 300 bucks I think I could build my own for about 1/2 the cost. I was thinking about going with 2/0 size for both sides and using a good quality military style clamps, As far as the cable I don't know if I should spend the extra money and use marine grade cable or if welding cable/ automotive cable in the same size would be just as good. And is crimping the best way to fasten all this together rather than soldier,

 

OK, your OEM Cables were solder built from factory, and heat shrink used,,if your just now replacing them, how are you gonna top that, IT doesn't get any better than soldered connection with heat shrink IMHO. 

still going to solder and heat shrink, just going different style of clamp . just thought it might give me some options if adding accessories in the future, and my cables and clamps went south a long time ago, I'm just getting around to it, just want to do it right so I don't have to do it again.

There is no reason to add accessories to the battery terminals. There is 2 very capable studs in the PDC. Even all my stuff there is nothing on the batteries.

There is no reason to add accessories to the battery terminals. There is 2 very capable studs in the PDC. Even all my stuff there is nothing on the batteries.

Thats the way i had my Power wires to Air Dog FP RELAY , and had power wires for RELAYS FOR THE sport headlights there till i replaced batteries with OPTIMA RED TOPS and used the side accessory terminals , Keeps everything clean looking.. 

Edited July 28, 201510 yr by rburks

till i replaced batteries with OPTIMA RED TOPS and used the side accessory terminals , Keeps everything clean looking..

 

Me personally I would of stayed with lead acid batteries. But that's the way for the wiring.

Check with automotive electrical shops. My local one makes cables to any spec you desire. They rebuild their own starters, alternators, etc. and do electrical repair and modification. They found a short for me one time in minutes that would have taken me hours.

There is no reason to add accessories to the battery terminals. There is 2 very capable studs in the PDC. Even all my stuff there is nothing on the batteries.

great advice, I never thought of that...it will  clean it up...

Me personally I would of stayed with lead acid batteries. But that's the way for the wiring.

I'll never go back to Lead Acid, the Optima's handle the cold and the heater Grids cycling better than any I've had, they've been in there for about 4yrs+- they have already last longer than any I've had

I doubt you'll make 10 to 15 years like I do... OEM lasted 10 years in the diesel. I replaced with WalMart batteries. The batteries that power my house are 6 volt lead/acid batteries and those last upwards of 15 years if taken care of. Which with a lead/acid you can top off the electrolyte and also perform a equalize charge to stir the acid and distilled water as well as reclaim some of the sulphated plate material. These are some things can't be done with any sealed batteries.

I doubt you'll make 10 to 15 years like I do... OEM lasted 10 years in the diesel. I replaced with WalMart batteries. The batteries that power my house are 6 volt lead/acid batteries and those last upwards of 15 years if taken care of. Which with a lead/acid you can top off the electrolyte and also perform a equalize charge to stir the acid and distilled water as well as reclaim some of the sulphated plate material. These are some things can't be done with any sealed batteries.

May not, but never got that out of lead acid batteries either. I don't miss the corrosion & Leak'n on the tops either ..

I've got two other vehicles with Optima's 7yrs old . One sets a little more,, I don't miss the Corrosion out the Tops either

Edited July 29, 201510 yr by rburks

No leaks, acid or corrosion problems on any vehicle or my home system. Give you an idea these are 20 year old battery cables on the home system that have never been cleaned nor has they ever seen corrosion.

 

 

 

So corrosion and acid issues is a sign of charging issues or improper maintenance of the batteries. If your venting acid shows sign of excessive high charge rates possibly from a bad battery temp sensor or discharging too deeply? As your looking at the box and see the acid splash that is from the previous battery set that had bad cells and I left the caps off during a equalize charge. With the bad cells they would get hot and boil more so throwing acid out.

 

Lead acid batteries can and will perform if maintained and charged properly. Being that my battery bank powering the house is about $4,800 to replace I'm going to insure it crosses the 10 year mark and possibly the 15 year mark before replacement. As for vehicle batteries they are built basically the same so using the same knowledge from the house system on the truck got me to 10 years on vehicle batteries. Heck even my little ATV battery is nearing 8 years now.

There is no reason to add accessories to the battery terminals. There is 2 very capable studs in the PDC. Even all my stuff there is nothing on the batteries.

ok whats a PDC  is it alway hot or ignition on hot. and where is it. need to wire up my coil wire for the relay for my air comp./air horn to a place and prefer not to hook to the battery.

Edited July 29, 201510 yr by Ed ke6bnl

ok whats a PDC is it alway hot or ignition on hot. and where is it. need to wire up my coil wire for the relay for my air comp./air horn to a place and prefer not to hook to the battery.[/quote

Just take the lid off your under hood fuse box and you will two studs with smaller battery cables hooked to them. Direct power from the battery so yes, hot at all times. Very convenient spot to hook up accessories.

And PDC is Power Distribution Center

ok whats a PDC  is it alway hot or ignition on hot. and where is it. need to wire up my coil wire for the relay for my air comp./air horn to a place and prefer not to hook to the battery.

 

Hover on the dotted underlined acronyms and see the meanings... PDC > Power Distribution Center

 

As for driver side follow the red wire to the PDC and you'll see it runs right to the alternator fuse. This provides a nice stud for hooking up accessories. Constant 12V power. Switch power is from inside the cab.

Now that I know what and where the PDC is I will put a relay controlled by the ignition on and have a place for Hot and Hot with ignition both with a small fuse box for each. thanks for the new info. sure beat going into the cab to get power at the fuse panel