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I have an airtex lift pump and it has been great. I changed my fuel filter last night and went to bump the starter and got nothing. My pump in the past has always run after bumping the starter. I got the truck running and the fuel pressure was fine: 18 PSI idle, 14 PSI cruise, never below 12PSI. I have stock fuel lines so it is going to drop a little more than bigger fuel lines.

 

Any thoughts as to why the fuel pump didn't run when I bumped the starter? Would it be some sort of relay issue, computer issue, or just fuel pump issue? :shrug:

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I just called my local Dodge dealership, and they quoted me $2,070 for a reman'd ECM. :doh:

yup yup yup,,, that first gen restore it looking better and better,, I did price an ecm from oreilly auto parts, they wanted a little under $500. but its still needs flashing with the Vin and current mileage (iirc)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Computer/C0396/C0334.oap?keyword=ecm&year=1999&make=Dodge&model=Ram%2B2500&vi=1377569

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hm. Dodge said that they cannot flash an ECM. It sounds like my options are buy direct from Dodge and bite the bullet or buy from one of the online vendors for remanufactured ECMs. I found another online retailer, http://www.npddiesel.com/#!cummins-1-plugs-ecms/c4tx

I just don't know if those are trustworthy or not. Guess I can sell a couple of guitars to make the purchase hurt a little less. :neutral:

hmm,, they can, in fact IIRC to take advantage of options like 3 cylinder warmup etc. some of the early ecms need to be flashed with the newest firmware. it sounds like you was speaking with what i call a windows licker. ;)

 

that said, having your own ECM rebuilt is not a back idea, i know the ferd guys are doing with the 6 slows (we are not the only ones with weak ecms) LOL

Edited by cbrew

Dodge can, my brother in law who is a Dodge tech said it's no big deal, and it's my understanding that anyone with a Smarty can do a flash for you as well. If you get a used one from the same year and transmission a flash should not be needed

any one know if an ECM relocation kit exists, you know the engine vibration is not good for it

www.circuitryrepair.com. this one is the former kleinbottle computer that Mike suggested in another thread

Auto Computer Specialist
221 S St Rd 7
Plantation Fl 33317
This is who imbodie used with good results. I would still recommend reading the thread I suggested above before pulling the trigger. There where alot of good suggestions in it

any one know if an ECM relocation kit exists, you know the engine vibration is not good for it

I've often thought of that. Where could a worse place be to put a computer than on the side of a hot, vibrating, dirty engine. Everything a computer hates exists there but yet they all do it  :cookoo:

yup yup yup,,, that first gen restore it looking better and better,, I did price an ecm from oreilly auto parts, they wanted a little under $500. but its still needs flashing with the Vin and current mileage (iirc)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Computer/C0396/C0334.oap?keyword=ecm&year=1999&make=Dodge&model=Ram%2B2500&vi=1377569

This is more likely a PCM and not an ECM. Alot of the parts houses cal them ECM's. You need to be sure you are getting the right part. I went the internet rebuild route several years ago and it was a very unpleasant experience. I might have used ACE but am not sure. I would have to get home to confirm. I still have the 2nd one they sent me Makes a good paper weight. I would be darn sure other folks have used a provider with succes before I would trust any of them. When my 2nd rebuilt went out I found a local guy in Tennessee that put a Cummins ECM in for $1400 out the door. Even at the dealer price of $2050 was less than what it ended up costing me going the rebuild route. Even though I had no code for a bad ECM(P0606 IIRC)the first rebuild I installed set it immediately after install.

Edited by dripley

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This is more likely a PCM and not an ECM. Alot of the parts houses cal them ECM's. You need to be sure you are getting the right part. I went the internet rebuild route several years ago and it was a very unpleasant experience. I might have used ACE but am not sure. I would have to get home to confirm. I still have the 2nd one they sent me Makes a good paper weight. I would be darn sure other folks have used a provider with succes before I would trust any of them. When mine went out I found a local guy in Tennessee that put a Cummins ECM in for $1400 out the door. Even at the dealer price of $2050 was less than what it ended up costing me going the rebuild route. Even though I had no code for a bad ECM(P0606 IIRC)the first rebuild I installed set it immediately after install.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience. I just called http://www.dieselecmsource.com/281/Dodge-Ram%20Truck-1999-5.9L_I6_CUMMINS_DIESEL-ECM%20-%20Engine%20Control%20Module who is part of AutoModule Source and they asked me for clarification if I wanted a PCM or ECM. I looked them up and the are BBB Accredited. I am undecided if I am going to go the Dodge route or go with the company I just called. My gut is telling me to just go through Dodge, but it'd be nice to hear others' experiences before I pull the trigger,

This is more likely a PCM and not an ECM. Alot of the parts houses cal them ECM's. You need to be sure you are getting the right part. I went the internet rebuild route several years ago and it was a very unpleasant experience. I might have used ACE but am not sure. I would have to get home to confirm. I still have the 2nd one they sent me Makes a good paper weight. I would be darn sure other folks have used a provider with succes before I would trust any of them. When my 2nd rebuilt went out I found a local guy in Tennessee that put a Cummins ECM in for $1400 out the door. Even at the dealer price of $2050 was less than what it ended up costing me going the rebuild route. Even though I had no code for a bad ECM(P0606 IIRC)the first rebuild I installed set it immediately after install.

yeah, very likely,

I was searching when my ECM decided to burn up my alternator. i have been using the external regulator setup with great success. I would like to have mine rebuilt, but i want to find a local provider (unlikely)

the ole 12 v is looking better and better LOL

For my education, how did the ECM burn up the alternator?

the built in regulator failed and instead of failing open (killing the alternator) , it started applying full power to the field and proceeded to cook it. it was funny, I was dropping my wife off, nothing seen out of wack, right after pulling away i started smelling burning/hot wire, and i saw a wave of smoke from that side of the hood, pulled over and the alternator was cooking pretty good by then, at idea the voltage stay around 15 volts, i decided to move truck and just off idle the voltage started climbing. so i had to sit for a few minutes to let the process complete, when the voltage dropped to 12.8 volts, i drove the ole girl home. just figuring / hoping something was screwy with the old alternator, I through the new one on and with in 30 to 45 second the voltage started climbing and once it pasted 15.5 volts i shut her down. looked everywhere for bad grounds broken wires, etc. nothing. the best i can think of is the circuit path with in the ecm for the reference voltage broke so as far as the regulator circuit knew, it was not charging to spec and kept increasing the output. so after taking the article i found here for the external conversion, I applied a few changes, shes been rock steady at 14.4 volts at the batteries with less then .020 ripple voltage

not the best solution because i lost the battery temp system and i am sure that is what finally took out my 13 year old batteries. (over charging with the heat we have had this year. (not the hottest on record) )

I thought the regulator was in the PCM and not ECM. Did not know the ECM had anything to do with the alternator. I am by far a 3rd grader on the electronics systems.

I thought the regulator was in the PCM and not ECM. Did not know the ECM had anything to do with the alternator. I am by far a 3rd grader on the electronics systems.

your right, good, then i dont need to worry about my ECM. which makes more sense with the unit i linked from the autoparts house

I stand corrected,

Long ago, in a previous life, my brother had the regulator go out on his Dodge Colt.  By the time he got to the shop the battery was smoking.  We could smell it by the time he shut it off by the shop.  We used bolt cutters to cut the cables & hold downs off of it.  Pulled the battery & set it on a couple of cement blocks.  It was still hot 3 days later.  

All the water had boiled out & then it shorted internally.  Scarey stuff. 

 

Simpler system.  Replaced alternator, regulator, battery & good to go!

I wouldn't go through dodge. Everything they touch seems to break!

Thanks for sharing your experience. I just called http://www.dieselecmsource.com/281/Dodge-Ram%20Truck-1999-5.9L_I6_CUMMINS_DIESEL-ECM%20-%20Engine%20Control%20Module who is part of AutoModule Source and they asked me for clarification if I wanted a PCM or ECM. I looked them up and the are BBB Accredited. I am undecided if I am going to go the Dodge route or go with the company I just called. My gut is telling me to just go through Dodge, but it'd be nice to hear others' experiences before I pull the trigger,

The company I used also had a good BBB rating and seemed to know their stuff from talking with them. They did not however offer a lifetime warranty. I think mine was 5 years and they did replace the first one. It only took 4 or 5 weeks to get the second as I remember. Mean while I a renting a car for the wife and I was diving her Dakota. Do some research before you go that route. I googled diesel ecm source and found a bad review and none favorable. But I only spent 5 minutes doing it. If it does go south and turns out to be a POS, you now have a POS with a lifetime warranty if you pay the extra 100 bucks. 

 I dont want to just run these folks down since I have no experience with them, but I would damn sure be careful. My adventure was no fun what so ever.