I know this has been beat to death over the years but I have a question. I never considered XRF because I thought they were high priced but checking I see they are cheaper than NAPA and OEM Spicer. Are they any good?

if it all works out let us know the ebay seller that sells these parts. thanks ED

if it all works out let us know the ebay seller that sells these parts. thanks ED

Ventures truck parts is the seller.

Replacing_Ball_Joints.pdf

. So be prepared for some frustration.

Thus the beer!!

Dave 110, this is a great offer, Just beware if Mike gets the torch. He as been known to strike a man in the cahones with a super heat ball stud in the past.

Ha Ha. I can pretty much guarantee the torch will be deployed. Nothing beats the old gas wrench if used correctly.

Replacing_Ball_Joints.pdf

Here is a right up I stumbled across a little while back. i did not have the benefit of any pneumatic tools when I did mine. Still managed to do it however. 

It is basically bolt off bolt on except that everything is pretty well stuck. So be prepared for some frustration.

Thanks for that. I believe I saw it before but my 99 is opposite from this. Same idea though.

Thanks for that. I believe I saw it before but my 99 is opposite from this. Same idea though.

I think I did post it earlier. Forgot about yours being a 99.

Make sure you have a good tuna fork. Also pneumatic hammers help alot. Your on your own with the beer and band-aids though.

Tuna fork? I've always called it a pickle fork. Hmmm now I want a sandwich.

Tuna fork? I've always called it a pickle fork. Hmmm now I want a sandwich.

Well thank you for that fine idea. Tuna sandwiches will be for dinner at my place and pickles on the side.

(Shh!) Don't tell all my secrets!

Remind me not to be around when the torch is going to be used.

I never use a fork for taking steering components apart, one usually does more damage than not with them. Just wrap on the housings with a good hammer several times and they more often than not break loose that way alone.

^^^^ I've used this technique many times but here in the rust belt sometimes you don't get that lucky.

Just a touch of heat just before good firm wraps work well in those instances.

I never use a fork for taking steering components apart, one usually does more damage than not with them. Just wrap on the housings with a good hammer several times and they more often than not break loose that way alone.

i have one and use it when I know the part I am removing will not be reused. I have also had some luck with the wrapping method at times. Did not work well on the unit bearing however. Not sure I had a big enough wrapper for that.

Edited September 18, 20159 yr by dripley

I use a fork and a 4 pounds of persuasion. I do have another trick but I would rather not mention as some people would break something or hurt themselves. 

Got my parts today, They left Utah! on Wed. and arrived in Penn. on Sat. Not bad. Shipped free and used secvond day priority. Here's a few pics. of the parts, and my part table

Edited September 19, 20159 yr by dave110

I use a fork and a 4 pounds of persuasion. I do have another trick but I would rather not mention as some people would break something or hurt themselves.

 

Oh, do tell! I'll sign a release, and just blame it on the beer

I just use mini sticks of dynamite. Tie three of 'em together around the BJ, lite it and run

My lower spicer joint keeps loosening up. I will drill a hole in it next weekend and use a pin.

Finally got em in. Was not too bad a job really. I had never seized the hub when I replaced it so that came apart easy after I had the bolts out. Not sure why they where so tight. I also soaked everything with PB Blaster every week for 4 weeks prior to doing the job so that helped too. It still took a 3 foot pipe on the end of my H.F. breaker to get the bottom nut loose. Say what you want about H.F. but my stuff has never let me down . I also used the ball joint press from them which worked great. The only thing I could have used was a 2.25" I.D. x 3" long tube but I made it work. Put some pressure n the joint and tap on the side of the casting to help free the joint and you won't kill your press.  . With my 99 the joints are in the knuckle so I could take the whole thing and put it in a vise to remove the joints.  . Put a new inboard rotor on while I was in there since it all has to come apart to change rotors on a 99 and put it back together using the torque sequence in the supplied instructions and done. Now..... where did I put my beer

Edited October 1, 20159 yr by dave110