I currently am working with a manufacturer to have an additional BHAF filter option. This filter uses Donaldson's Powercore technology and has a capable flow rate of 1300 CFM while filtering the air down to a micron rating substantially better than stock.
I am currently in process doing heat soak and IAT temp checks and EGT checks at WOT runs, cruising, part throttle acceleration and transient boost speed from cruising to passing acceleration.
Next tank of diesel will be a fuel economy test to see if any improvement exists.

I will do my best to keep everyone up to speed.

True. The MPG fooler does indeed retard timing. The ignition rattle nearly disappears in my truck with the fooler and comes right back without.

What funny about about the whole cold air thing. I can get fully warmed up in a place like Boise, ID and drive into cooler weather and instantly see changes in the cold mountain then instantly see change back when I get to warm area like Riggins, ID. But never really see a change at all with the fooler on. Don't get me wrong I do see impact of the bitter cold starting in the dead winter but after engine temp reaches 195*F as long as the fooler is on the MPG are at least low 20's to high teens. Without it it will fall seriously to mid teens for MPGs. I gotta thank ISX for helping see the difference between 12V mechanical which has no loss in the winter to the 24V that does have losses in the winter.

I never cold idle a engine to warm it up anymore. Even my gas power stuff I fire up and go. Keep the load light till the the engine warms up and the kick the pig.If I was attempt to warm up the truck idling (normal) it would take at least 30 minutes at 32*F. Now if I'm in a hurry and need heat to clear ice from the windows. 3 cylinder high idle and about 900*F of pyro and she is fully warmed up in about 7-10 minutes at 175*F. Then it automatically kicks out. But that 3 cylinder mode cost fuel... lots of fuel! Flow rate is like 6-9 GPH...

My oil analysis never saw fuel dilution from idling to warm up or any increase in wear metals, at the same time I should have been more specific. I wait for my EGT to stabilize about 2 min after start up. Once that happens if the temps are not very cold I drive away with a whole lot of clatter. If the temps are below the freezing mark and are 20 degrees or less I will idle for a bit longer until the clatter reduces.

I'm sure the BHAF will help warm everything up a bit better since engine bay temps are warmer than what the airbox would ingest.

Edited September 17, 20159 yr by Vais01

I have idled mine quite a bit thru the years. Especially when I use it for an office on the job in the winter time. That is a tame winter time compared  to what a lot of ya'll see. A bad winter for me is a low of 20 and a high of 40. Once the engine is warmed up it will idle around 160 to 165. Once it start getting colder it will drop off lower.

I have idled mine quite a bit thru the years. Especially when I use it for an office on the job in the winter time. That is a tame winter time compared to what a lot of ya'll see. A bad winter for me is a low of 20 and a high of 40. Once the engine is warmed up it will idle around 160 to 165. Once it start getting colder it will drop off lower.

I've seen plenty of 20 degree weather in my truck. Mostly west Texas or central Texas and even still I can idle all the way up to operating temperature (165-180).

Are you running a BHAF or the factory air box?

I just saw you have a BHAF

Edited September 17, 20159 yr by Vais01

I've seen plenty of 20 degree weather in my truck. Mostly west Texas or central Texas and even still I can idle all the way up to operating temperature (165-180).

Are you running a BHAF or the factory air box?

I just saw you have a BHAF

I ran the factory airbox for many years after a 3 or 4 years I quit trying to warm it up idling. I just crank it get the juices flowing and then idle out of the rv park. i keep the rpm below 2k until it warms up going down the highway. Never tried with the BHAF come to think of it. I am now to used to doing this way to change. 

I ran the factory airbox for many years after a 3 or 4 years I quit trying to warm it up idling. I just crank it get the juices flowing and then idle out of the rv park. i keep the rpm below 2k until it warms up going down the highway. Never tried with the BHAF come to think of it. I am now to used to doing this way to change.

When did you do a coolant flush last? I ask because I would inspect the thermostat and make sure it is a 190 degree genuine Cummins thermostat as they have altered the design for better performance.

The BHAF may help with warm up time since it draws air from all around the engine bay. Other option is pull the snorkel on the airbox.

LOL! Already got a BHAF now.

 

The coolant has about 70k miles on it now. I'm going to swap out for 200*F thermostat this winter too. Increase the block temperature and manifold temperature through the winter. Also my water get shut off this next month due to freezing temperatures. So if I'm going to flush or wash anything I better do it soon. Typically run winter fronts too as long as I'm not towing. Next month I install the winter fronts.

 

 

LOL! Already got a BHAF now.

The coolant has about 70k miles on it now. I'm going to swap out for 200*F thermostat this winter too. Increase the block temperature and manifold temperature through the winter. Typically run winter fronts too as long as I'm not towing. Next month I install the winter fronts.

I was actually asking dripley haha.

200 degree thermostat is s bit overkill is it not?

Not really... It's been test by a few folks on the east coast and works rather good. The coolant temps hang at about 197-199*F through the winter and MPG's are up slightly more from the added heat. I'm going to jump into this ring and do more test and see how it reacts too. Just a stock 6.7L t-stat that all.

When did you do a coolant flush last? I ask because I would inspect the thermostat and make sure it is a 190 degree genuine Cummins thermostat as they have altered the design for better performance.

The BHAF may help with warm up time since it draws air from all around the engine bay. Other option is pull the snorkel on the airbox.

 I understand what you are saying and I am overdue for a coolant flush. I have run every brand of tstat you can think of. I actually have one from mopar(190*) in it right now and cost $65 and has a funky extension on it that goes into the block . It behaves no differently that a $15 Stant. It has been like this since the day I bought it. 

LOL! Already got a BHAF now.

DSCF2445.JPG

 

The coolant has about 70k miles on it now. I'm going to swap out for 200*F thermostat this winter too. Increase the block temperature and manifold temperature through the winter. Also my water get shut off this next month due to freezing temperatures. So if I'm going to flush or wash anything I better do it soon. Typically run winter fronts too as long as I'm not towing. Next month I install the winter fronts.

With the 200° thermostat and winter front I will be curious to see how much extra your fan runs. I would bet that any mileage increase will be negated by additional load from the fan.

I screened my OEM airbox (against mice when I put it back) but have not used the snorkle.  I've thought about blocking the fender hole to use more under hood air in cold weather. 

Accuracy of temp gauge?

Not really... It's been test by a few folks on the east coast and works rather good. The coolant temps hang at about 197-199*F through the winter and MPG's are up slightly more from the added heat. I'm going to jump into this ring and do more test and see how it reacts too. Just a stock 6.7L t-stat that all.

Interesting, I wonder if it would hurt running year round with that thermostat?

I understand what you are saying and I am overdue for a coolant flush. I have run every brand of tstat you can think of. I actually have one from mopar(190*) in it right now and cost $65 and has a funky extension on it that goes into the block . It behaves no differently that a $15 Stant. It has been like this since the day I bought it.

Cummins has them cheaper than Mopar and it's the most current version. I would say I paid 35 for it.

With the 200° thermostat and winter front I will be curious to see how much extra your fan runs. I would bet that any mileage increase will be negated by additional load from the fan.

 

Fan doesn't lock till 215*F so I doubt there is any loss...

 

Interesting, I wonder if it would hurt running year round with that thermostat?

 

Ask Pepsi71Ocean he's been running his for 2 years straight as far as I know...

 

With the 200° thermostat and winter front I will be curious to see how much extra your fan runs. I would bet that any mileage increase will be negated by additional load from the fan.

Thermostat would only open momentarily because the road speed would still keep the radiator very cold and the cold air may keep the thermostatic switch on the fan clutch from engaging.

In winter my 190 degree thermostat opens up only when I'm really romping down on it otherwise it may stay shut the entire trip.

I screened my OEM airbox (against mice when I put it back) but have not used the snorkle. I've thought about blocking the fender hole to use more under hood air in cold weather.

It probably would not have much benefits as the air is mixed hot and cold. Even with my BHAF I see a 25 degree difference in temps from my 2 sensors and a 20 degree difference from my air intake probe (not the IAT). Air box is slightly warmer than BHAF but my airbox is modified.

Fan doesn't lock till 215*F so I doubt there is any loss...

Ask Pepsi71Ocean he's been running his for 2 years straight as far as I know...

I'd like to hear more on this. I'm curious. May help with combustion.

I'd like to hear more on this. I'm curious. May help with combustion.

 

Exactly. Warmer air doesn't need as much timing advancement. Warmer block has less thermal losses more power is produced (fractional but there). 10*F more coolant temp is not going to hurt anything on light duty daily driver. I would be a bit worried about towing in the summer time being I know I've tipped 215-217*F may times holding 1,200*F EGT's climbing long grades. Being diesel engine rely on the compression heat to ignite the fuel if there is more heat then fuel readily ignites easy. Being in the winter time intake temps can drop seriously low and hamper the ignition quality of fuels hence why cetane level are increased for starting performance. After engine warms up the high cetane fuel is a waste. The coolant and block heat should take over from that point helping to ignite the fuel. Most people go the other direction and go colder thermostat 180*F. This creates poor efficiency not enough to ignite the fuel properly to much thermal loss into the coolant jacket.

 

This is strictly daily drivers...

I thought, thou it has been a while, that Pepsi dropped back to the 190° due to excessive fan operation.

Without a different fan clutch it would be useless in summer for any gains unless you are always empty.

I have been wanting to try a 200° thermostat for quite a while but ther isn't much point unless I can reprogram my fan.

IIRC the 2nd gen fan clutch is a traditional clutch right? With a hotter engine and the stagnant airflow of a winter front you may be surprised. Having watched IAT (pre and post turbo) with winter fronts for a few years they retain quite a bit of heat.

EDIT: I just did a little reading on the 2nd gen clutch. It is a viscous clutch with a mechanical thermostat, which means it is not an on/off clutch. It starts to engage when exposed to temps above 160°.