Loaded up to go to a race and hit the cruise button, the indicator comes on in the dash, but no cruise. Any ideas where to start?

Vacuum or fly by wire system?

 

Vacuum you might want to check all vacuum line and the vacuum motor for holes or vacuum leaks.

Will do. Thanks... At least I have a starting point now... Thanks again.

If you don't know where the actuator is, it's under the driver side battery. 

Are your HVAC controls working?

Yes, my HVAC controls are working. I was using both the AC and Heater on this trip. It was getting cold in Boise last weekend. Thanks for the location. That will save me some time. 

There are small contacts that corrode within the actuator head if this is the fly-by-wire. I do believe it can be disassembled and cleaned. Also check the bell crank push pull cable to ensure it has not broken and let us know. Give it a slight tug to be sure it's attached.

If it is fly by wire there would not be an actuator. Mine is fly by wire and no actuator. Strictly thru the ECM. Mine is an 02 manual, the autos came with the actuator. But it could be different in the 01. Not sure when they changed other than late model 2nd gens.

If it is fly by wire there would not be an actuator. Mine is fly by wire and no actuator. Strictly thru the ECM. Mine is an 02 manual, the autos came with the actuator. But it could be different in the 01. Not sure when they changed other than late model 2nd gens.

^^ This is correct. Fly by wire does not have an actuator. The manual trans started fly by wire sometime in 01, but no one is quite sure when things changed.

^^ This is correct. Fly by wire does not have an actuator. The manual trans started fly by wire sometime in 01, but no one is quite sure when things changed.

My truck is an 01 auto and the actuator is electronically controlled and under the drivers side battery. The actuator controls a push pull cable that enters the rear of the bell crank and retains and modulates the throttle position mechanically via this cable. The manual trucks are fully electronic and do not use the actuator.

My truck was built in mid 2000 so there is the possibility that build dates may play a roll.

My truck is an 01 auto and the actuator is electronically controlled and under the drivers side battery. The actuator controls a push pull cable that enters the rear of the bell crank and retains and modulates the throttle position mechanically via this cable. The manual trucks are fully electronic and do not use the actuator.

My truck was built in mid 2000 so there is the possibility that build dates may play a roll.

 

The OP has a 01 manual that is why I brought it up. so he is not looking for something that might not be on his truck. i struggle with some things on mine and looking for something that is not there would have me    . 

The OP has a 01 manual that is why I brought it up. so he is not looking for something that might not be on his truck. i struggle with some things on mine and looking for something that is not there would have me .

If the mobile version showed the signature I may have caught that haha.

Utah, If you dont have an actuator then the problem is probably in the ECM or wiring/connector I dont know. Here is to hoping you have an actuator. When my ECM went out and I bought a rebuild off the internet, the second one they sent, the light would come on but no cruise.  Drove it that way for a year until that one crapped out and I had to buy on from Cummins. solved the cruise proble but hurt the wallet.

Edited September 10, 20159 yr by dripley

There was some of the manuals with a vacuum motor and some like mine with fly by wire.

I looked last night and there was no actuator under the drivers side battery box. So I guess I have a fly by wire and an ECM issue. 

 

Is this something that can be diagonsed by the dealer, or someone else with a computer hook up?

Dealer is unlikely... They really have no idea how to work on these things. I'm not sure about a professional scan tool though.

So if its fly by wire now I would check the clock spring for good connection.

 

Disconnect the batteries and wait at least 15 minutes to make it safe. (Air Bags). Now you can unplug the clock spring and ohm test each button position. Each button is going to have different ohm values. The PCM detect the different voltages and understand each one as a different function. So if the clock spring is broken or weak connection then the values are screw up and PCM does nothing.

Ok, I am assuming the "Clock Spring" Is some kind of connector? I have no idea what or where the Clock Spring might be. 

 

I might add I do appreciate everyone's help with this. Thanks... 

Behind the steering wheel. It what connects the air bag, horn and cruise controls to the rest of the truck. The clock spring is a ribbon cable that give connection to these devices.

 

Basically...

 

If you pull the clock spring be sure the center of it does not rotate much. It should go back in the way it comes out. You can tape it in place to keep it from rotating or just be careful it does not rotate.

Now  being that he said the dash indicator came on for the cruise, would that eliminate the clock spring? Just a funny thought here, I have had a mis adjusted brake light switch cause issues like this. The pedal was bouncing just a little down the road and it kept turning the brake lights on for just a split second. Made the cruise not work.

Funny you say that because I was talking to a friend that use to be a Dodge mechanic and he said the same thing. He also said that the brake switch could be a two sided switch, one for the brake and one for the cruise, so either way I am going to check that out this weekend before I try the clock spring. I hope that is it. I am not sure I want to tackle the clock spring thing...