Well Gang, 

 

 

The Board of Directors on the Mopar1973Man.com has decided that we need to produce some new High Idle Switches for the 2nd gen 24V Cummins.  We have spent a considerable amount of time designing a Brand New High Idle / MPG fooler Switch.  

 

We have learned from the last switch design and have made significant improvements.  The New High Idle / MPG Fooler switch will be the same price as before, but it will be more robust and modular to allow for easier install.  

 

We have decided to only offer a "Install Anywhere  Kit" rather than a gauge mount or Cubby Mount.  You will nly have to drill one 1/4" hole to allow for the fitment of the switch.  

 

Some teaser pictures. 

 

 

 

 

 

We are making 50 switches to start then another run of 50 after that.  You can order them from The Mopar1973Man.com Store I expect to have them ready to ship within a 6 week time. 

Edited November 22, 20159 yr by Mopar1973Man

If you roll the switch to slowly you'll end up with 3 CYL mode.

Speaking for my own switch I've not had any issues in toggle MPG -> 6 CYL or back without a issue. Just have to remember to select in a snap speed.

That must be it then Mike. I feel like I'm turning the knob as fast as possible without going into a mode unintentionally but that does make sense as to why it's happening.

Hey guys,

I received my new high idle switch today and got it installed! It took me way longer to install it than it should have because Im so OCD about how my wires are routed. Finally got it done and I love it! So far it works great! I can definitely notice a difference in the sound of the engine with the MPG fooler, much quieter! I do have a few questions though. First, there is a little tab that points toward the face of the switch on one side. I assume it is there to dig in and keep the switch from turning. However, it seems a little long and bends the switch quite a bit when you tighten the nut. Can I trim it a little with a pair of cutting pliers so it doesn't bend the switch so much? It squished the little detents and makes the switch harder to turn. Second, I thought EGT's should be higher in 3 cyl mode than just idling normally? Mine are about 50-75 degrees lower, about 200-225 or so, and it was about 50* outside on top of that...Is there something wrong? or is this just because I don't have an exhaust brake? 

Thanks in advance and thank you for making such a great product!

19 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

First, there is a little tab that points toward the face of the switch on one side.

I took a pair of needle nose pilers and just flatten that tab so I could mount it to a flat surface. Simple solution.

20 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

Second, I thought EGT's should be higher in 3 cyl mode than just idling normally?

It should take about 2-3 minutes set in this mode to enable 6 CYL mode once it reaches 1,200 RPM's then it will flip over to 3 CYL mode. You are required to have coolant temps BELOW 140*F before you can enable 3 CYL mode.

6 CYL mode can be enabled at any time being it fools both coolant tenp and intake air temp.

EGT's in 3cylinder mode really don't climb high unless you have a Exhaust brake.  

 

I have seen 400*f idle without EB and 1000*f with EB.

 

egt's will depend greatly on many things though.  

Thanks for the replies guys! And thanks again for coming up with this and making it available for us!

Ok got another question. I was under the impression that the grids shouldn't cycle if the truck is started in mpg mode? Mine are....is that normal?

Mine still cycle in MPG mode.   I don't get the WTS light or the first cycle, but beyond that they cycle. I think the battery temp sensor and ECT sensor play a role in some of the years of truck.  

 

 

Edited December 15, 20159 yr by Me78569

Ok thanks again. Just wanted to be sure all is as it should be.

Pre grid heating is cancelled. Now post grid heating continues. That is normal.

Does the ecm wait for idle state in the truck to trigger the post grid heater cycles?  Just curious how that works.

On December 14, 2015 at 4:28 PM, notlimah said:

One thing I've noticed with my switch is if I start up in MPG mode and then later switch to 6cyl or 3cyl, the truck will 3cyl high idle in either position. The only way I've been able to get 6cyl or 3cyl high idle to work is to start the truck with the switch in the OFF position and then switching to either mode after start up. Don't necessarily think this is what's causing your problem, but just something I've noticed.

 

Wonder if that's what is going on with my??

Absolute way of hitting the mode. Is selecting the mode you want BEFORE you turn the key ON. This will set the mode before you even start the engine. After you started you can turn the mode to MPG or OFF. This should get you exactly what you want.

If you get the wrong mode. Then you must shut down for at least 15-30 second to clear the software from the ECM. Then on the next start its a blank slate.

Is it harmful to start the truck in mpg mode when it is cold enough that the grids would run? I tried it today at 35° to see how it would start. It turned over and started quicker than if the grids had run but it had kinda of a big cough immediately after it fired off....

A lot of people down south delete the grid heater all together.

I've started my truck at the low temp of 25*F once and rather rough start missing, lots of white smoke till the cylinder temp came up then it settled down and ran normally. I would say it best to start with grid heaters on a initial cold start after that you can leave the switch in MPG mode.

Ok thanks!

On ‎12‎/‎18‎/‎2015 at 1:38 PM, leathermaneod said:

Is it harmful to start the truck in mpg mode when it is cold enough that the grids would run? I tried it today at 35° to see how it would start. It turned over and started quicker than if the grids had run but it had kinda of a big cough immediately after it fired off....

Mine will do the same thing if I start her up in MPG mode when it's around those temps. No big deal!

On Friday, December 18, 2015 at 4:10 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

A lot of people down south delete the grid heater all together.

I've started my truck at the low temp of 25*F once and rather rough start missing, lots of white smoke till the cylinder temp came up then it settled down and ran normally. I would say it best to start with grid heaters on a initial cold start after that you can leave the switch in MPG mode.

I had a grid heater deleted up until this past fall. No need to delete the grid as it will not change EGT or performance. 

Now as far as starting I've cranked up in the low teens and other than more noise and white smoke everything was fine once everything warmed up. I will suggest high idle warm up vs regular idle to get everything up to temps.

We have one more switch for sale in the store.   

 

Harness is new and was only used to spec out the next run of switches.  Now that we have spec'd out the next harnesses this one can be sold.

 

Fully tested and working.

Raffle on when it is sold?