Today i went out and popped my hood to check the oil and noticed my drivers side negative battery cable was unhooked like it came loose. I thought i fixed my apps when i reset it but i must have just forgot to put the negative cable back on the battery. So is my rapid studdering a bad APPS? or is it a bad alternator? I do have the p0122 code and it cleared while the cable was unhooked.  I dont wanna replace one and have it be the other. But while the negative cable was unhooked i didnt have any issue with my shuddering. Im kinda stuck until i figure this out.cause i cant drive over 50mph without it shuddering like crazy. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, kimber

My alternator is working fine but i still get the apps code. Is your truck parked on an incline nose up by any chance? 

I dont know if the 602 is caused by the smarty. I have no experience with one. I hope that is the case because reading up on it in the articles section it could mean a fried ECM.http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/203-p0602-ecm-fueling-calibration

They tested the alternator and said it was good so is it my ecm?

who tested the alternator?

That would have been my next question. A lot of auto parts stores are not good at testing them. Did they test for AD voltage?

Edited December 10, 20159 yr by dripley

Autozone lol bought a new one anyway put in it no luck.  Then i noticed my security blinker was on............... locked my doors unlocked them and boom good as new lol the new alternator did fix my converter issues.  So i wanna tell you guys thank you very much for all your help i greatly appreciated it. 

Good work.

 

Autozone and other big box stores only test for DC volt output, they don't check for failed diodes or other issues.

 

 

Glad the issues are fixed though. 

2 hours ago, ruedger455 said:

They tested the alternator and said it was good so is it my ecm?

So what was the AC ripple voltage during the test?

2 hours ago, Me78569 said:

who tested the alternator?

I would like to know too.

ECM doesn't create lock and unlock issues. PCM is in control of that. Still in all I would test drive the truck with the alternator unhooked and see what you get. Most likely you'll find your lock and unlock issues gone. Which now points back to failed alternator that just tested good on a test bench.

Which I just said above that my alternator was physically damaged and had high AC noise issues and it PASSED.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/topic/10827-help-bad-alternator-or-apps/?do=findComment&comment=124028

Yea he said yea it passed and i was like damn!! Then i said ill get thenew one anyway.  And im glad i did.  It was an ac delco 136amp those worth a damn? Or am i gonna be changing it again in a month?

Moparman the new alternator i got fixed everything.  No ecm issues and im happy lol

The one in my truck came from Auto Zone. It is a 136 amp also not sure whether it is AC Delco or not. It lasted about 5 years until one of the bearings started screaming. Bought it in Oklahoma and got it replaced in Georgia no questions asked. Kind of hard to say who rebuilt it and who stuck there name on it though. Tested it myself for AC voltage and it is fine for now.

Yea thats exactly where i got mine. And the same voltage i got.  

Well i hate to say it but my locking and unlocking is back.  I think its safe to say my apps is bad.  I reset it when i swapped alternators and i thought the new alternator fixed it but it came back.  What the best bang for your buck APPS sensor for a 01 24v cummins?

Unhook the alternator take another test drive.

APPS sensors don't create lock & unlock issues. To verify the APPS sensor hook up a live data tool and watch the TPS signal. If it not changing during the lock & unlock issues then back to the alternator unhook it. If the problem goes away the alternator failed.

It would fail in a week?

Yes.  A lot of the big box stores sell junk alternators that have not been fully rebuilt.  Unhook the alternator and go for a test drive. 

What do i do if it still does itnwith it unhooked.

Did you unhook both the field lead and the BATT leads?

I havent unhooked either yet.  Im just saying what do i do if it keeps doing the same thing?

I really doubt it will. I've only heard of rare cases of it it continuing but typically there is other electrical problems or modifications causing it. Like poorly install "Lockup Switches" or electrical issues inside the transmission like broken wires or bad solenoids.

Ok well ill give it a shot in the morning and see if it fixes it or not.  Youd think an acdelco wouldnt go bad this fast.  Its not even been a week.

I've seen both Bosch and ND alternators brand new in the box fail just on the test stand. Matter of fact my last alternator "PASSED" with a failed rear bearing, bad brushes, and excessive AC noise. Then the new alternator "PASSED" again and it had twice as much AC noise than my failed alternator. No sale there. So I went to another part store to get another alternator which tested out better than my broke unit. So new or reman'ed doesn't mean it good.