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Rail Pressure Troubleshooting

Posted

Starting to have a dead pedal symptom. When I shift, sometimes the pedal goes dead, no engine response for a second or 2, then it comes back to life. Initially it started as a hiccup. Would just be noticeable between shifts.  No codes, new symptom is first start today was rough, low idle, ran ~5 seconds then died. Started back up with no issues, minus the hiccup/dead pedal issues. Around a year ago had the FCA go out. Replaced it ran fine.

This winter I have had to plug the block heater in since the batteries are going out. Or else they almost don't have enough juice to start the truck after cycling the grid heater. Yea I have one bad grid heater solenoid so only running on one heater now as well.

Another thing that I finally tied into voltage is once it gets cold enough for the grid heaters, is that when the grid heater cycles off, and battery voltage comes back up the dash dings and some warning lights flash.

I have the smarty touch and desired charging voltage is 15V. Is that a little high? Trying to figure out how to display the datalog I took with the smarty to see when the non-responsive pedal is tied to something else.

The 2 red top optimas I'm running are maybe 8-9 years old. They were in my 01 ram. Got this truck and swapped them over. Wondering if bad batteries could cause this. If so, I have to research batteries now.

Edited by Cowboy

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  • JAG1
    JAG1

    Bob, just some suggestions for reliability which may not solve your problem. Get rid of the inside the tank lift pump and go with a Fass with the filters. Cut out the screens inside the tank and

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    That was my thought too.   Color. 2 Cycle Oil tints the fuel that strange blue-green color.

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    The return goes to the fuel pump module, which is not pictured since it is removed.    There is a severe duty vent kit offered. I believe you want 68061341AA with a long bed. 

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  • Author

Not yet. Had to rebuild the forks on bike. Easier then the truck now. I pulled the tank and drained it. So hopefully no fuel issue. Which of course after I drain the tank.

Easiest way to go about testing the sensor? I'll have to back probe the harness. Least intrusive is a sewing needle. Worked for me before. 

No real good way to test it, tapping the line will not do anything. If you have replaced the FCA and are still having funky RP issue I would just swap it. 

  • Author

Local Cummins $230.  

Reading the thread a few down. 'Truck died on highway…'. Might also maybe pick up a cov.  

  • Author

Can someone double check me. I found the pressure relief valve for $265, the pressure sensor for $217 and a fuel rail for $299 which includes the relief valve and the pressure sensor. It would be cheaper to buy the rail and take the sensors off the new rail. I am reading that right, right? :think:

http://hoeslidiesel.com/store/page13.html

 

I was going to stop the local Cummins and have them order a pressure sensor, Might be getting a whole rail now instead.

 

Edited by 2500ctd

  • Owner

You could change out the entire rail cheaper... :think:

As for the sample of fuel it looks like you got a load of summer fuel and the last batch was clouding up.

Edited by Mopar1973Man

Yes I have heard the entire rail is cheaper. 

Just to be sure call Todd at T&C diesel. He may also be able to give you additional troubleshooting advice. 

  • Author

Ordered the rail.  Debating on switching the whole thing out or just pirating what I need off of it. 

Part number is 4929618

Genos lists the rail as well for 299.00. 

Edited by 2500ctd

  • Author

What pressure does the relief lift at? I thought I saw it here but cant find it now. My relief valve with the as shown 26112 psi isn't leaking

 

oops found it well top post on this page. I missed the post about calling T&C diesel  :doh:

Edited by 2500ctd

I would still call Todd and ask. He is pretty HPCR smart. 

    • Like 1
    • 2 weeks later...
    On ‎2‎/‎29‎/‎2016 at 11:32 AM, 2500ctd said:

    Ordered the rail.  Debating on switching the whole thing out or just pirating what I need off of it. 

    Part number is 4929618

    Genos lists the rail as well for 299.00. 

    Looking at some of the corrosion your seeing, I think I would swap the whole rail out.. Just me.

    • Author

    New rail is in. Anyone know the torque specs for the fuel lines? Says refer to torque specs.  Can't find them in the manual. Running out now to get a crows foot for the torque wrench. Didn't have a 19 mm but I had a 3/4 tube wrench. Also what size is the connector tube nut? 21mm ish?

     Rail is surprisingly heavy. Well it is a high pressure vessel.  

    • Author

    Couldn't use the crows foot. No room so I used the calibrated elbow. New filter setup is mounted as well. Gonna run the bf7633 since I have it. And my bf1212's showed up today.  So hopefully I can get a ride to get some diesel.  Don't think I want to strap 5 gal diesel can to my back on the bike. 

    Pocs of filter setup:

     

    image.jpeg

    image.jpeg

    • Author

    Nogo. Same as before.  Rail pressure maxes after starting. So its a new rail with pressure valve and pressure sensor. Maybe try another fca? 

    At a loss now.  Only code is low voltage to grid heater which I know about that issue.

    image.jpeg

    image.jpeg

    Edited by 2500ctd

    • Author

    The higher voltage might be cause the batteries were a tad weak however the truck always seemsbto charge high.  According to the gage.  I haven't thrown a dvm on it yet.

    Top picture shows the actual rp vs rpd. ThAT is something else I don't understand. It is obviously higher then desired yet no codes.  

    Edited by 2500ctd

    What does this truck sound like when idling???  With max RP, it should be loud as hell.

    • Author

    It does sound like crap.  Same as if the fca was unplugged. 

    Checked the battery voltage with it running. 14.99. Within .25v of the smarty display when I actually compared them. 

     

    So so it seems to be fixed.  As a last ditch measure, picked up one more fca.  4 total.  ?  At first the pressure has trouble stabilizing.  Was jumping +/- 1000psi at least.  Engaged the high idle let it run and it finally settled down.  At first even revving it would hang.  However seems fixed now. 

     

    My idea: the other fca's were ran with the old tank of diesel.  As I posted I dropped the tank cleaned it out and ordered a fuel rail.  The fuel in the tank I used to drain it initially is still very cloudy. Like the pics in the beginning of this thread.  

    So wth the new rail and just under 5 gal it started, rail pressure maxed. Then I heard it settle. Watch the smarty as the rail pressure dropped to normal…and continued to drop till it quit.  Hoping 4 gal isn't enough.  Gauge didn't even register. Add 5 more gal.  Started and max pressure but it ran.  6-6.5 psi at the cp3 with my new filter setup.  Got the new fca today and all good. After it 'learned'.  

    So I am back to thinking I had a bad tank of diesel that killed the fca.  I more then likely didn't need the rail. Which I will keep the old one. However since one of the banjos showed corrosion, not a bad idea to install clean parts.  Anyone want to test my old fca? I would put it back in to see but I'm paranoid now and it's nice to have it running again.  Boy is it slow.  I got used to riding my bike. Lol.

     

    Glad you got it fixed. i'd test the FCA for you but i don't like turning wrenches unless i have to.

    What bike? i sure miss mine. vfr800_zpsukyo3tvc.jpg

    • Author

    I like that bike. You can see mine through the cleaner fuel. Lol

    This pic is when the truck was down and needed to finish rebuilding the forks since only thing left working was my bicycle which is leaning against the truck  

    03 Buell Firebolt. 

    image.jpeg

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    Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.