So on initial start ups, I've noticed that there tends to be some white smoke. Only one time has it been to the point where I was like man, that's a good amount haha. Other then that, its just a little bit, not even really noticeable in my mirror. Anyways, every time I start there always seems to be a slight hiccup at start (I'm thinking this may have to do with the stock intank lift pump so I'll update once the fass is on) but she idles out smoothly after a second or so. It was around 48* this morning. I have a typical wait to start time, fire her up, and again, have a little white smoke. I then waited to see if my grid heater would kick in with the voltage drop and nothing happened. Eventually it looked like it tried to cycle the grids but the voltage barely dropped to the 14 mark. Do I have a bad sensor? Need new heater block? The truck seemed to have a VERY slight hiccup at idle, barely even noticeable, but I was thinking it may have been from the lack of grid heater?

Keep in mind, the one time I've started the truck after being plugged, none of these symptoms were apparent.

Does your WTS light come on?  How are your batteries and battery connections?

Yea, wait to start does come on. I'll have to pay more attention to see how long it comes on for. Batteries were replaced in '12 I think? That's when the sticker on them say they were born at least. Connections seem to be ok, I just took a wire brush to them, but they weren't really THAT bad, just typical small amounts of build up.  

May just replace them anyways, any recommendations on battery brands?

Edited February 17, 20169 yr by notlimah

Don't replace, instead diagnose  

When it's cold enough for the grids to kick on, flip the key then jump out and feel the grid. You should be able to feel some amount of heat coming off of them. Plus you should be able to hear the relay shut off when the WTS light goes out. If the relays are working, test to make sure the grids are actually receiving the electricity.

Yea, I don't want to replace the grid heater, but I may do batteries just so I know they're fresh.

I'll check the grids tomorrow morning, its 51* now, and the WTS shut off as soon as the rest of the dash lights did, and it started up no prob, idled and drove no issues.

How would I check to make sure the grids are getting electricity?

Check voltage at the grid heaters themselves.

4 years isn't much for batteries.... you'll know when they're starting to go.

So I check at the screw connectors? Or should I check at the sensor?

1 hour ago, notlimah said:

How would I check to make sure the grids are getting electricity?

Really easy on a cold start using a test light probe both studs on the grid heater and have someone turn the key to ON but do not start. There should be power to at least one grid heater on a cold start with the freezing weather you should see both grid heater posts with power or test light lit up.

He is pretty borderline for the grids coming on in the 50's is he not? And if one or both came on they would not be on for long I would not think. 

65*F and lower should trigger at least 1 grid heater. I'm not sure when 2 is triggered. Then again that why I suggested a second person turn the key to ON while the other is probing quickly to see if power is present or not. If you got a high idle switch setting it for 3 CYL mode would for sure trigger both grid heaters for MAX amount of time.

Edited February 17, 20169 yr by Mopar1973Man

Alright, I'll check that when I can. I have a high idle switch but it's installed on the 99 and this is in regards to the 02.

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

65*F and lower should trigger at least 1 grid heater. I'm not sure when 2 is triggered. Then again that why I suggested a second person turn the key to ON while the other is probing quickly to see if power is present or not. If you got a high idle switch setting it for 3 CYL mode would for sure trigger both grid heaters for MAX amount of time.

I thought the cutoff was around 55*. Just working off my what memory was telling me.

So after work, went out and fired the truck up. WTS light went out quick again. Fired up fine. Popped the hood and listend for any power draw and felt for heat. Couldn't feel or hear anything. I pushed on the black wire on the radiator side and it immediately cycled, my hood light dimmed and I could hear it. I think maybe some water had got stuck in there from my engine bay cleaning a few days back. We'll see if that was really the issue or not. 

When its down to 32F i dont even wait for the grids i put key in and fire it up. Instafire with no noticeable smoke or chugging. All 3 24v's i have had have behaved the same on cold starts.If your getting smoke and a hiccup on a 50F cold start after waiting for the grids i'd look to the fuel system for air leaks.

Edited February 18, 20169 yr by moparguy55

19 minutes ago, moparguy55 said:

When its down to 32F i dont even wait for the grids i put key in and fire it up. Instafire with no noticeable smoke or chugging.

Same here. There is no need for grid heater right down to +32*F I've started as low as +23*F but then you see the rough idle, white smoke, till it smooths out. Matter of fact I'll be unhooking my grid heater really soon. Typically in April but I might do it sooner being the weather is so mild. I'm expecting another day of low 40's to mid 50's here again. Even this morning it made it down to as low as 40*F and not even cold enough for grid heaters.

So MoparGuy is right I would be looking towards air leaks now.

yea, even before the grid heater thing, I had VERY SLIGHT rough starts, at least tougher then the 99 that's got some fuel stuff already done to it. It led me to think it's probably lack of fuel since its running on the in tank lift pump and stock lines. Either way, once I get down below 1/4 of fuel, the trucks getting parked, FASS is going on with 1/2in all around. So I'll see if it's still an issue after that.

My grids a disconnected for now and I started it the other day around 19 or 20 degrees. It took 4 or 5 cranks for to fire off and stay running. That was a little extreme and quite smokey.

 you guys and your small injectors! Mine is mad if it's below 40 and doesn't get grids. It'll start down into the single digits but it sure doesn't like it.

Hey mannnn! Don't you be showing off with your big injectors! Gonna make guys like me self conscious!

41 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

 you guys and your small injectors! Mine is mad if it's below 40 and doesn't get grids. It'll start down into the single digits but it sure doesn't like it.

That's because of the larger droplets produced by the larger injectors. Smaller injectors can produce fine enough mist to fire up with little to no heat at all.

2 minutes ago, notlimah said:

Hey mannnn! Don't you be showing off with your big injectors! Gonna make guys like me self conscious!

Doesn't bother me one bit...