My Son owns a 2000 3500 DRW with a 47RE. He has been experiencing occasional symptoms of a governor pressure solenoid failure.  He has not been driving the truck much lately, and has been waiting for the opportunity to get under there and replace the governor and related parts.

 

He drove the truck yesterday, and now a new issue has come up. The Torque converter appears to be locked and will stall the truck when he tries to come to a stop. He managed to get the truck home by putting the truck in neutral and dropping it in or out of gear when he had to stop.

I have never heard of a lockup issue quite like this one... Any comments or suggestions would be much appreciated. 

Any error codes?

 

You might want to tag @Dynamic our on site transmission guru.

Have not been able to check any codes yet. He took it down and put a scan tool on it awhile back and it confirmed the governor pressure issue. not sure what the DTC was exactly. We`ll do another scan and see if anything new has come up.

How do I tag @Dynamic ??? 

no idea haha....I am not much help

 

 

 

I would guess the lockup solenoid is sticking open.  

 

When he stops, and pulls it to "N" the goes back to D is the TC still locked?

You must type the at symbol the part of dynamics name.

 

@Dynamic

 

That's all there is...

2 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

no idea haha....I am not much help

 

 

 

I would guess the lockup solenoid is sticking open.  

 

When he stops, and pulls it to "N" the goes back to D is the TC still locked?

Yeah I did`nt get to talk with him too much about it today, but I gather the TC is locked all the time... Like trying to stop at a stop sign without a clutch pedal in a standard???

@Dynamic

Ok see if this works?

The trans won't downshift if it is locked, if you go to "n" I think it will unlock and the. You should have 1st.  Not that it helps the issue.

 

I am not expert, just thinking outloud.

The most common cause for this is a failed torque converter clutch, but on rare occasion, I do see a stuck switch valve in the valve body. If the transmission upshifts and downshifts normally (aside from the governor solenoid/transducer issues), it's a good indication that the converter clutch has failed.

 

You likely won't see any codes unless it is an electrical failure.

11 hours ago, Dynamic said:

The most common cause for this is a failed torque converter clutch, but on rare occasion, I do see a stuck switch valve in the valve body. If the transmission upshifts and downshifts normally (aside from the governor solenoid/transducer issues), it's a good indication that the converter clutch has failed.

 

You likely won't see any codes unless it is an electrical failure.

 

If I`m remembering correctly the symptoms of the original problem were the truck did not want to upshift after everything got up to operating temperature. He could WOT and let out and it would go ahead and upshift. The next day he drove it down to Orielly`s to check for codes and it shifted normal (cold), but it did have a code for governor solenoid.  Its sat in the driveway for about a month, and this is the weird part... Now that the TC is acting up the shifting issue seems to have went away??? Is there any connection between the governor/transducer and the TC? or is there anyway way to eliminate the lockup switch just for test purposes? 

I`m not real optimistic here, but it would be nice to eliminate the TC if possible.

Does it have a lockup switch?  

 

If so return it back to stock and see what happens.  if there was a short in the switch or something you would all sorts of issues.

As for governor pressure sensor and solenoid. If the transmission is launching in 2nd gear if in Drive. If you place it in 2nd gear it should down shift to 1st and then launch. I will advise that if the transmission already has 100k miles I would consider contacting Dynamic and talking to him. Like myself I had a local shop install the governor pressure sensor and solenoid for $500 bucks and then 4k miles later the transmission dies because the torque converter is shot. What I'm saying is if the transmission already high in mileage and showing signs of wear it might be worth having it rebuilt.

 

Like in my case it was quite the difference after Dynamic rebuilt mine.

Edited April 2, 20169 yr by Mopar1973Man

21 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

As for governor pressure sensor and solenoid. If the transmission is launching in 2nd gear if in Drive. If you place it in 2nd gear it should down shift to 1st and then launch. I will advise that if the transmission already has 100k miles I would consider contacting Dynamic and talking to him. Like myself I had a local shop install the governor pressure sensor and solenoid for $500 bucks and then 4k miles later the transmission dies because the torque converter is shot. What I'm saying is if the transmission already high in mileage and showing signs of wear it might be worth having it rebuilt.

 

Like in my case it was quite the difference after Dynamic rebuilt mine.

 

I`m thinking the same thing.. Throwing parts at it and then winding up pulling the whole thing for a rebuild doesn`t make much sense.

I would like to figure out how to check for an electrical fault with the TC lockup circuit though before we drop the thing out.

From my past experiences, it is the PCM that controls TC lockup correct? Do you know which wire it is, and does it send ground or 12v ?

 

 

This might help....

22 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

As for governor pressure sensor and solenoid. If the transmission is launching in 2nd gear if in Drive. If you place it in 2nd gear it should down shift to 1st and then launch. I will advise that if the transmission already has 100k miles I would consider contacting Dynamic and talking to him. Like myself I had a local shop install the governor pressure sensor and solenoid for $500 bucks and then 4k miles later the transmission dies because the torque converter is shot. What I'm saying is if the transmission already high in mileage and showing signs of wear it might be worth having it rebuilt.

 

Like in my case it was quite the difference after Dynamic rebuilt mine.

 

I`m thinking the same thing.. Throwing parts at it and then winding up pulling the whole thing for a rebuild doesn`t make much sense.

I would like to figure out how to check for an electrical fault with the TC lockup circuit though before we drop the thing out.

From my past experiences, it is the PCM that controls TC lockup correct? Do you know which wire it is, and does it send ground or 12v ?

 

 

Thanks Mike, that's a good place to start.. With the thing suddenly having symptoms of two different issues I wanna check for some simple stuff first.

Is there a way to print that schematic?

43 minutes ago, angus said:

Is there a way to print that schematic?

 

Should be able to print the entire page if need be... I know its not the exact year but should get the transmission stuff right.

 

Just wanted to update this topic.. He limped the truck over to a local transmission shop for a rebuild. and found that the band had either slipped or became dislodged?? The pan had a lot of metal shavings in it, but its not exactly clear what was causing the converter to stay locked up.

Anyway, We went ahead and bought a Goerend billet apply lever and ancor just anticipating a valve body upgrade in the future.

After he talked with our local Guru he assured him he could upgrade his stock valve body for $300 bucks and it would do everything he wanted it to do.

So for $2500 bucks he got a new heavy duty single disc converter, a complete rebuild, and an upgraded valve body.. So far so good and the truck has good firm shifts and a 30k warranty