This started last week on Friday. Working out of town truck ran fine all week and drive home Thursday night. It was raining hard on way home. Got up Friday morning to run errands truck started fine let it warm up pulled out of drive and truck cut out 1/4 mile down road pulled over, was able to restart it to turn around and go home. It died again, buddy came and towed it home, got codes 0217, 0230, 0237, 1698, 1689 on ECU scan and 1693 on PCU. Lift pump wasn't putting out much flow so i installed new one flow was fine and had 20 psi cranking, got it started idled at 18 psi ran for 20-30 min. Shut truck off and now it won't start again. No process of cranking it over o noticed the fuel pump relay was getting warm. Batteries are low had charger on them over night and still had to jump start to be able to get it to crank over fast enough. I've read numerous posts about the codes some point to Injection Pump, ECM, Grounds....etc. never had any codes except the 0237 which I assume is from Edge box. Checked grounds and all looked good. Stumped at this point and want to make sure I don't miss anything before dropping money on a new injection pump or ECM. 

Try this: 

HOT WIRE TEST - THE "FOR SURE TEST" TO DETERMINE IF THE VP44 IS WHY THE ENGINE WON'T START

It is very rare, but possible, for a problem with the wiring harness or the CAN Bus wires to prevent the engine from starting, so if you want to be 100% sure it IS the Injection Pump causing the no start, follow the following directions exactly, to be sure of not damaging a possibly good pump. This test POSITIVELY eliminates the possibility of overlooking an electrical problem caused by other components that could affect the start or run function of the VP44, as long as you have verified fuel delivery to the Injection Pump. Remove the electrical plug at the back of the Injection Pump and hot wire the pins on the pump as follows. Get two wires long enough to reach from the battery to the VP44. Install an INSULATED ¼ inch female spade connector onto one end of each wire. Connect one INSULATED connector to pin 7 on the pump, which is the pin on the BOTTOM row of the socket on the Injection Pump, closest to the engine, to preferably fused (10 amp is fine) positive battery power in the PDC (Fuse box under the hood), or directly to the positive battery terminal if you like to take risks!.

Connect the other INSULATED connector to the pin directly above the previous connection, the top row of pins, the one closest to the engine, and attach the other end to battery ground. Now try to start the engine and if it doesn’t start, you absolutely positively 100% need an Injection Pump! If the engine starts this way but NOT with the big plug installed on the pump, you know there is something in the harness or CAN bus wiring to the ECM telling or causing the engine to not start. Call me for help if this is the case.

 

This will tell you if the injection pump is good. Make sure you have fuel to the injectors though!

Thanks I'll try that when I get back home in a few days. I know there's fuel to the injectors had it running and bled air by cracking lines at 3/4/5 lines. 

Got it started up today, notice when I bump starter when filling the fuel filter housing there seemed to be a lot of air bubbles coming out. Truck had slight miss at idle but cleared up when I idled up. Shut it off tried to restart and wouldn't. Seems like I am getting air in the system somewhere. Cleared codes before I started and after running for 25-30 none came back. 

start checking all the lines from the Fuel filter back for leaks.

Looked at that didn't notice any, any chance there's cracked or broken draw straw in the fuel tank module?

Air lea,s typically won't be visible.  The air is sucked into the system.  

 

pickup tube could be the issue, it does happen.

Update didn't notice anything wrong with the sending unit when I removed it other than float for level gauge which I already knew. Ordered draw straw and going to run new lines when I get back home next weekend. Also read about the return line at back ok head can leak and let it air. I know where the quick connect for it is does it normally lose seal at the quick connect or other fittings. 

The fitting on the back of the head and the tee it runs down to are both notorious for leaking air. I assume the quick connect you are talking about is the one on the fuel basket. I have not heard folks speak of that one leaking but who knows.

Are there any o rings or seal washers I should go ahead and replace when I get it apart?

Got it running, installed Vulcan Draw Straw and ran new fuel lines to engine. Couple of cranks to bleed lines and fire right up. 

Good to hear you got the project complete and the truck running...