I know a couple of times I've had my batteries disconnected anywhere from 15-30+ minutes. I've never done an apps reset (didn't know about it). I'm asking because I'm still having issues with my truck (at times) dropping in and out of lock up.. like yesterday was horrible. Just releasing the slightest of tension on the accelerator would cause it at 55, 65 and higher.  Today.. no issue whatsoever tho.. Ran around 80 miles.. stop and go and highway.. never dropped out once. Not sure why it has good days and bad? I'm getting a TPS low voltage code every time I check and clear. I'm going to try the reset procedure tomorrow based on cumminsdog suggestion. And.. I still need to get a meter and check alternator voltage...

 

Edited April 6, 20169 yr by dodgedieselnewbie

I couldn't tell you exactly what happens if you don't do it. I've done the same thing though and haven't run into any issues your stating. If your dropping in and out of TC lockup that usually means your alternator is putting out too much AC noise. It could also be your apps is on its way out.

Thanks for reply..

 

I'm leaning toward the apps due to the fact it's related to tension on the pedal and a code. Just not sure why it's sporadic.. and if it's possibly because of not resetting the apps. I'm pretty sure I had my batteries disconnected for a couple hours when I did valve adjustment and injector install.

9 hours ago, dodgedieselnewbie said:

I'm asking because I'm still having issues with my truck (at times) dropping in and out of lock up..

 

That is alternator noise issues. All you have to do is alter RPM and the problem goes away. Not so much APPS but frequency of the noise created by the alternator.

I'll buy a meter tonight and check. It's driving beautifully again today. It may be coincidence but I could swear the problem pops up when change tunes on smarty. 

Quote

What happens if you don't do an apps reset?

 

Think of all the times people have run there batteries dead and jump started the truck and drove on. Nothing happens just the range of throttle might be affected but most don't even notice.

Okay.. bought a meter and IF I'm doing it right.. I'm in the .8 to .9 range

 

I set the meter to AC V and and set the range to first decimal ... Is this correct?

 

Put the positive lead on the big black wire on alternator and negative to the negative battery terminal...

 

 

I set the range to the second decimal.. I get  0.12  It doesn't dance around like I see in Mike's video?

 

Then I tried on the third decimal.. and got a .006 reading. 

 

Help..............

Edited April 6, 20169 yr by dodgedieselnewbie

You want to set the range for 2V or less scale.  0.000 should be what you want to see.

50 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

You want to set the range for 2V or less scale.  0.000 should be what you want to see.

 

Well.. this is the meter I bought.. I don't see where 2V can be selected. I can hit the range button and move the decimal over.

 

I put it on V ac/dc... hit mode for ac.. then hit range to move decimal over. 

 

I have no experience using multimeters... so any help would be great!

 

BTW.. when I turn it on to V AC the meter won't read 0.000.. it fluctuates around 0.015 - 0.025 like it's picking up current in the airwaves? This is with no probes connected to it...

 

Edited April 6, 20169 yr by dodgedieselnewbie

That looks right 0.016 AC volts.

4 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

That looks right 0.016 AC volts.

No.no... that's not connected to anything. 

Touch the probes together to check for ZERO. The probes are picking up RF energy in the air like antenna...

When I touch the probes together.. It'll go to zero in DC mode but not in AC mode. Lowest it will go is 0.008 - 0.009. Is something wrong or am I doing something wrong? I'm feeling kinda helpless because I don't know this stuff...

Hmmm. Amount of error?

 

@Me78569 Do you have anything to add that might help?

I'd like to know if this meter is capable and if I'm selecting the correct functions? Which is.. turn selector knob to "V dc-ac"...  hit mode to switch to "ac"... hit range to move decimal over to third digit.

 

 

Sounds right so far. Typically the probes touched together should cancel out RF noise/energy.

Mike.. I've watched your videos and neither show where you have the probes connected. I touched the positive to the to the large black wire (the connector at the end) on the alternator.. do I need to actually touch the nut/bolt on the back? And.. the negative to the negative battery lead. I got a steady 0.006 which leads me to believe.. I did something wrong?

Note that in AC  mode it says V on right.. when I switch to DC it says mV. Should I leave it in DC to test alternator? 

Edited April 7, 20169 yr by dodgedieselnewbie

It sounds like your checking in the right places, positive on the alternator and negative on the battery. As far as the multi-meter, not sure, I'm terrible with those as well. Usually ends with a call to my dad who works with this sort of stuff all the time lol.

Multimeter needs to be in AC MV mode, unless it is a true RMS multimeter you can't use it to test.  

 

 

Maybe my pic and vid aren't showing? It says its true rms.. just not sure if I'm in mv mode in the ac side of things. Thanks for the replies...

 

EDIT: Well.. I found mV in AC on the meter.. yay! Just kept pressing range a bunch. However.. the decimal will only stay by first digit. I can get the meter to show zero by pressing the Relative button but not sure I want to be in relative mode. Will give it a shot either way and see what I get. It's raining buckets here.. so will have to wait...

Edited April 7, 20169 yr by dodgedieselnewbie

I didn't see that in the image, but I wasn't looking either haha.

 

What decimal point does it read to in AC mode?